simpletool

I have a 2.5" silicone 90° bend shoved into the stock hole. Better still would be to use a 3" to 2.5" 90° reducer with a velocity stack shoved in the intake end. ie. velocity stack with 73mm ID (1.5mm walls) and 127mm bell mouth. Shove this into the 3" end, then elbow it up into the stock hole with 2.5" outlet (or cut a 3" outlet and don't reduce).

I was thinking there looked like no filter inside that airbox. I'm going to paint mine matt black sometime soon so it looks less junkyard racer.

I thought about this and even bought the necessary parts to do it - parts to add a 2nd pod filter into the base of the box. But in the end I though the panel filter could flow enough. I have a K&N pod with 2.5" mount and 2.5" metal intake pipe 45° bend sitting on the shelf. I was going to plug it into the bottom corner of the box and mount the pod just below the stock SMIC return hole. I didn't bother as I thought it had more draw backs than benefits. ie. probably next to no benefits (maybe 1 rwkw) - but would help when the filter got dirty. Draw backs were: legalities, extra noise, possible water into filter, extra cleaning of filter due to road grime, hassles of mounting, worries of sealing effectiveness over time - don't want unfiltered air into engine, etc.

Bonnet open or closed? That could be pulling a lot of hot air. FWIW the filter itself shouldn't be much of a restriction. K&N say 1.5inches of water at 450CFM for a perfectly clean filter. But if a bit dirty perhaps 10inches of water (0.5psi). Much more restriction would be present in the lid and scoop/s to it.

I thought I'd spend some time trying to improve the stock R33 GTST airbox. I started the weekend by wanting to fix my pruning of the stock intake pipe when I fitted the FMIC years ago. One thing led to another and I ended up hacking up the stock box in an attempt to let more air in and reduce vacuum losses on the intake. Parts: Silicone sealant (high temp) 90mm PVC tube, 45degree bend 0.3mm aluminium flashing (plus some EFI hose for the edges) The large scollop I cut into the stock intake pipe was sealed up with some 0.3mm aluminium flashing, massaging and silicon. So now I've got 2 intakes for the stock airbox I used the heat gun to turn the 90mmm PVC tube into a non-even rectangular shape so that it fit the tapering profile of the airbox lid. Then I cut a hole roughly 60mm high and 100mm wide and shoved it in with some silicone. I angled the 45 degree bend down and flared out the intake as much as I could. I biased the intake so it would pull air from down and towards the guard (using the heat gun to make it soft, and work it again and again). I also have a cold-air feed angled up towards the intake fed from the spare hole from the stock SMIC return. The intake can also draw air from behind the headlight virtually straight in. I put in a barrier between the airbox and the radiator made by sandwiching 2 layers of 0,3mm aluminium flashing to reduce hot air ingestion. This is the view as seen from the cold-air feed (ie. looking up) which is a 2.5" silicone elbow. It looks pretty easy entry to me. Result: No idea. It seems to keep going stronger up top and have a bit more response but I can't say for sure it's not a placebo effect. The sound is a bit louder, especially the BOV. But it's nowhere near pod filter loud (which is good). So, my gut thinks it really has helped but who knows without dyno results. I did 107mph (pathetic I know!) at the drags a month ago - but that was with a dirty filter (K&N) - if I go back I'll see if it improves. Background: I looked into improving the stock airbox because it all looked a bit restrictive and there's a few results on here that indicate it's nowhere near as good as the GTR airbox (which itself improves by opening up the 2nd intake). I also had some problems with power dropping off after 6000rpm. But considering I only make 230rwkw @ 14psi I'm not expecting miracles. I also put some hose clamps around the silicon intake pipe I fitted a year ago to reduce any sucking closed.

I have a feeling I know who you got the clutch from. I had some slippage with mine, but it was rare. When it got rebuilt he mentioned the surface must have had some oil get on it to cause the slippage. My thoughts with mine was that the high clamp forces involved meant oil contamination was more critical.

Where are you ?

The decel fuel cut not cutting out soon enough could be the issue. 20 deg of timing around the idle is a fair bit. I run 16° at idle, 12° at 800rpm. Also 13.8 AFR 1200rpm and below. Good for clutch out at idle in traffic - crawl.

I think the best way would be to buy a bellmouth dump pipe and fit it yourself. Done and done. 1. It will work 2. Split dump pipes still have that whoosh whoosh sounds with stock turbos that sounds hella ghey - bellmouth do not. Also bellmouth do not have the potential boost control issues inherent to the split dump design.

I used to have awful squeel with RB74 pads. Tried the pink gluey stuff - didn't work. Then tried the copper brake grease on the stock shims and it worked fine. However I did need to reapply around 20,000km. Now I just use Bendix Ultimates and no problem but still using some copper grease. Love that stuff. Symptoms exactly as described. The squeel used to go away when they got hot enough but that was pretty rare off track.

I can't see many more orders coming from Aus/NZ (Not that we make up a large proportion of sales)

Just make sure you get all the tap water out of it. Also consider the heater core - they like to rust. radiator flush normally sucks BUT if you use it while your old radiator is in the car (and don't mind throwing out your old radiator) then it's a great idea. The old radiator will act as a filter to catch all the gunk the radiator flush washes out of your motor.

While the HKS 2835 is a GREAT turbo it's not exactly cheap. If it was even remotely cheap I'd have one myself.

and swapping a NEO head onto a R33 sounds like a massive headf*ck considering you don't have an aftermarket ECU.................??? If you do have an R34 ECU then just ad Nistune.

You'll get by if you set it to 8psi. Any more and you'll be well into R&R on an R33 ECU. I drove around on a close to stock ECU and it was really nice to drive, more progressive than stock, sounds deeper and louder, revs more cleanly, more lag....hahahaa. BUT you won't make much more than a stock turbo on 10psi as the ECU simply won't allow it. Go get a Z32 ECU and add Nistune. Turbo is good for ~230 to 240rwkw consistently. Full boost (1 bar) before 3500rpm in 4th. Heaps of torque (a bit more than GTRS) due to the fairly large A/R, but it has a bit more lag than the GTRS between gear changes.

1. Exhaust not flowing enough.

Neither are the Bilsteins.

Copper grease. Bentone clay grease with heaps of copper powder. Very common in auto parts stores. Just put a little on the back of the pads and between the shims. I use it and it even shuts up RB74 pads - although now I use Bendix Ultimate.

Perhaps having such a distance between the bearing races isn't such a good idea then? - Wondering if the heat trapped in the housing is causing warping.

Keen to see the new dyno results

Wow, glad someone ran with this. Nice work! After finding out I had my first baby on the way this fell by the wayside. After a lot of measuring I was going to use the 10" front spring (275lb/5kg) while using the Bilstein sleeves but turned upside down (like on the USA Supra forums). The sleeves then hang down off the circlip. I was planning to use another circlip below the top one to centre the sleeves, so they don't flop about at all (although the Supra guys don't seem to worry about it). The Bilstein sleeves are required to be cut to slip over, but they are cheap and quality. For the rear I was going to use 10" and 4.5kg/mm (250lb). I went the Tein s-tech mediums instead and they are pretty good actually, noticeably firmer than the Kings.

Yep, boost is the top line. I thought it was the 20psi line for a second then traced the line back. It had to be the top line as the bottom line starts at 10psi. The AFRs look very good. You take a touch of fuel out of it, but not real need. Hopefully its an exhaust problem with the slow boost/low power. Perhaps with the new boost setting you might be able to get a fair chunk more timing into it and make similar power.

Is this thread only for borderline right-wing loonies with gun fetishes, or can I say something ?????

Get some better pliers? The bent needle nose type? Or take some more parts off to get under there better. I managed to replace all mine without too much issue - but it did suck.

I was in a car when this happened. We were 18 years old, my mate was driving his mum's new Civic Vti-R and on the highway at ~130kph he changed from 5th to 2nd let the clutch out and........vroooooom sounded like it went to at least 11,000rpm. Had a bit of a jolt, fuel cut-out for a bit but it survived. Another 20kph and I don't think we would have been so lucky. We were used to the engine sound at ~8500rpm but this sounded quite a lot higher. Obviously we were much more careful after that.......until he drove it off the cliff at Stuartholme rd in Brisbane - hence the new barrier erection in the late 90s. The ambulance got him out from the upside down car hanging out of the trees, then the police drove him to join us at the movies watching Terminator 2. Insurance gave them a new car (less than 12months old) and he got off with no charges at all. He was so lucky at times.