simpletool

19 x 9 +25 would be pretty flush with the front guards. You should only require minor lipping of the guards and to push the plastic liner and screws up a bit (or remove it), this is assuming 235 width tyres. The 10 +20 would be outside the guards at the rear by a little bit (10mm) without some extra camber (~3° neg). But it would look fat. From the plenty of pics I have seen the offset to guard flushness on the R33 GTST are pretty similar front to rear. Typically for the same offset you really only need 1/2" wider wheel on the rear - but obviously this depends on how much camber you have front and rear.

TP load limit is a hard limit for cutting fuel. If it hits TP load limit you WILL know about it. R&R is a protective area on the last 2 columns (especially the last column) of the map which both increases fuel and even more drastically decreases timing. It is especially prevalent around the 4000 to 5200rpm area - you can imagine this visually by looking at the dramatic timing drop in the last cell. It is airflow based so efficiency improvements will also contribute to getting into this area as well as boost - the initial signs typically start around 9psi and getting dramatically worse towards 14psi. The onset of R&R is much more gradual than TP load limit. Kinda like developing liver disease as opposed to being shot.

$1800 for a set of 4 Bilsteins? Should be half that.

I'm no expert and it's been awhile but I think the general recommendation is maximum stability - which is FLAT. (neither grip or slip)

Hhmmm.. over-reaction much? Good luck with the sale. I thought you might appreciate the free bump (which you aren't meant to do repeatedly) and free advice on product pricing. Hopefully we get to shake hands over this one (for your sake).

Could be a few things but sounds like play somewhere in the rear end. There is a lot of bushes that need to be replaced. Do them all at once. You didn't mention if you had pinapples installed (subframe urethane lock). This would be a good first start.

So have you discovered that $1500 is in fact NOT the going rate for a sad looking well used R33 gearbox yet?

There is about 6 joins ABOVE the dipstick. Start cleaning it, then inspect. Get a torch and a mirror.

sheesh with that much threaded body you think they would spec a longer coil (10"). Yep, check the collars. Btw. Don't compress the rubber much at the top nut - you just do it up until just past touching (I also add some lock-tite, the type that doesn't fully cure).

No kits found by me. I have written in a few threads with the 2 diagrams. There was about 14 hoses all up I think? I would strongly suggest buying the OEM Nissan items for the 4 heater hoses plus replacing the 4-way metal join that is down above the starter motor. I used Gates racing silicon for the 2 x radiator hoses. For the other 8 or so hoses under the plenum I took everything off and went behind the desk at Repco to find suitable pipes from other cars that have similar bends and diameters(typically other jap cars have similar pipe sizes - I think they are metric). The hoses connecting to the throttle plate I think is generic 7.5mm ID gates hose - CHEAP ! This was 2 years ago and no leaks since (eg. the other day I bought a Corolla heater hose 13mm for $18 at Supercheap. I used one small straight section for the BOV return hose and achieved a perfect fit. Still 2 bends left for other stuff around the engine bay).

Big ones. 27 / 68 – 18 First Number indicates approximate tread width in centimeters Second Number indicates overall diameter in centimeters Third Number indicates rim diameter in inches //EXAMPLE Tire has 27 cm wide tread, is 68 cm in diameter, and uses an 18 inch wheel Diameter in inches = 68 / 2.54 = 26.8 inches Approximate* tread width in inches = 27 / 2.54 = 10.6 inches So, it is similar in size to a 27 x 10.5 – 18 tire in common North American designation Google is still free. http://www.michelinman.com/media/en-US/pdf/motorsports/Michelin_Race_Tire_Catalog.pdf FWIW a 245/40/18 tyre is 65cm diameter.

Understeer, then traction, then oversteer again? Or rear swapping sides? How quickly did the transformation take? less than 1 second or several seconds? Wheel to guard heights? Have you check the rear end for play?

Anyone know the ID of the hoses connecting to the PS reservoir ? I'm guessing 13mm and 20mm ? I assume they are metric so imperial won't fit properly? (thread steal I know - but related).

As fat as you can go - keeping the same size front and rear. Start with springs 6kg front, 4.5kg rear. Many people will tell you to stay away from Jap dampers if you want good grip. Personally I wouldn't have a clue. Get some adjustable sway bars to balance the front/rear.

I never even got as low as $1100 in Sydney but was $850 in Brisbane. Sydney is too fully sik for me, moving back to BNE in 3 months.

My experiences with Pedders (2 different shops in Brisbane) has been a bit worse than average both times.

Driving near Gympie is a lot different to driving around Sydney. If you can drive in Sydney and not exceed the speed limit by at least 20km/h during a 62km trip I would be impressed. To do the speed limit on my trip to or from work (M2) constantly would require I drive below the 15th percentile. Rather than the 85th percentile which is deemed the safest. If you honestly reason that removing the speed limits would cause an increased incidence of speed differentials then you obviously do indeed spend most of your time around Gympie. The speed differentials are insanely large in suburban Sydney precisely due to the artificially low speed limits (artificial compared to the 85th percentile rule). I imagine most people even on SAU have no idea what the 85th percentile rule is, and even less the general voting population. Therefore - more low speed limits to come.

Yeah I was thinking that was possible - no time yet to do a proper idle adjust.

I used Nulon Upper Engine cleaner a couple of week ago (similar to Seafoam, Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner). It all seemed to go well. I sprayed it into the plenum via a few different vacuum lines and sprayed a fair bit into the fat tube going into the AAC/cold start valve. The problem is that my cold start is now bad. Is it possible the cleaner has damaged anything in the cold start valve? When I start the car from cold it blips up then stalls. I have to repeat 2 or 3 times and the idle will be rough and low (~400rpm) then a few seconds later the revs quickly rise to 1400rpm and it is all good. The AAC valve seems fine and controls the idle well after the initial stumbles when cold. I thought I might have gunked the cold start valve since it sits at the bottom of the tube. So I have tried to clean a 2nd time with the Nulon stuff. It certainly gets it started but when it cools down again it hasn't helped. So perhaps some caution should be used with the upper engine cleaner when squirting it into the AAC tube. If I sort the cold start out I'll post up the issue.

I got 247 flywheel - might be generous.

The drivetrain loss would be a combo of both a fixed amount and percentage (or inverse log, or some such). Anyway I use 15% loss then add 10kw. 4WD is probably another 5% or so. So (191awkw/0.85 + 10)/0.95 = ?

Don't suppose you have the strut mounts from the coilovers for sale?

sheet balls - I would have paid more than $100 as long as the top mounts are OK and fit a 2.5" ID spring. Waiting for the next set of shagged coilover for Skyline (no matter which model).

Tein normally set at full soft (recommended setting). The dial is stated as a wear compensation device or for harder springs.

ISC upper mounts are $299 front and $199 rear. The fronts are spherical bearing, the rears are rubber mount. The rest of the stuff 4 x coilover adapters/perch, 4 x springs and 2 x helpers/holders cost $700 shipped. Total of $1200 is a bit more than I had hoped. Which is about the cost of cheap coilovers, although these should be better for 5/4kg. The extra $500 for the upper mounts makes it hard to justify - perhaps I can find some 2nd hand crappy coilovers and steal the tops.