simpletool

Sway bar links have a very very noticeable knock/clunk. Check the joint at the top, it doesn't take much play at all to knock. You'd be amazed how loud a noise they make. I've had it a few times. The fact you can go over bumpy roads and hear nothing then a slight corner will make it knock sounds EXACTLY like a sway bar link to me.

Yeah a lot of force which is why I want the springs mounted properly at the top. I sent a request to the ISC website - waiting for a reply. Not entirely sure they will have them as it appears the ISC N1 is only pillow ball now. When all is said and done I will post costs and some pics - if it ever happens. All hinging on the top mounts.

I know what you mean about the bump stop being the right height - you don't want to be on the bump stop and changing spring rates severely. The car should only be on the bump stop during extreme forces. Although the MX5, Nascar do use bump stops to effectively raise spring rates during hard cornering. But you have to use a comparatively soft and progressive bump stop and it takes some fine tuning. In regards to the full travel being only a little before block height - I will have to disagree. From what I have seen from spring manufacturers you want to stay away entirely from near block height. You should use between 20 and 80% of effective stroke. which for an 8" spring 20% of effective stroke is 30mm, so stay 30mm from block height. I use the bump stops to start limiting travel near either full damper stroke or the wheel hitting body work (and use a progressive bump stop starting about 40mm before this). but I'm no expert in this field - just been doing a lot of reading. Sorry if it sounds like I'm preaching here, I'm not.

It's for a R33 GTST. Tossing up between 275lb/225lb and 250lb/225lb spring rates and hopefully I can get a 10" on there. Hard to tell exactly what the static height of the spring will be without knowing the motion ratios but with a 8" spring and 250lb on the front it appears I will only have about 55mm travel until reaching the block height (my excel calcs are at home). However Hypercoil springs since 2008 have been introducing designs more like Swift springs so the block height has been reduced. Well if I do it all myself then yep it'll be from USA and Hypercoil springs and they are significantly cheaper than $80 each + shipping. I would like to support the local suspension guys but each part is double to triple the USA price and shipping isn't all that much for <20lb of stuff ($50!). If it all works out I will post up what bits and pieces I used. It'll be under $1000 for all 4 corners (including helper springs in the rear) and will be using quality springs and parts. I've got my bump stops pretty right at the moment and I'll put some effort into getting it right. I have a combo of poly and the SK bump stops (slightly shortened) at the moment. The only real issue I have now is the bad combination of sagged and seemingly too soft so it is riding at 340mm on the highest circlip (which gives only around 30mm until the bump stop starts getting compressed). Still it handles not too bad - no pogo action. I noticed the aftermarket strut tops have the shaft join much higher than stock so I will have to use a longer poly bush than stock to ensure the shaft is near the right height - but still a touch shorter than equivalent height like you mentioned (this will slightly shorten the stroke of the shock). This also allows me to run a longer progressive bump stop (on the other side). Alternatively if it is all too hard I am just going to slot some Tein s-tech springs in (medium rate ones have good reviews and are ~ 15% firmer than Kings/Whiteline)

The below describes exactly what I want so I'm now contacting ISC...........

OK thanks for the reply. You have confirmed my thoughts exactly. I didn't really like the idea of the old bump stop rubber being used to transfer spring load to the top mount. A simple solution might be to replace this thick rubber bush with a big poly bush. I agree with the spring rates and I was going to order 5kg/4kg and I'm willing to bet the Bilsteins can handle that easily without revalving. I didn't want this to cost a fortune but I wanted to do it the correct way. My only remaining issue was how to get the spring to mount properly at the top rather than against the shaft mount. There are a few companies that make a replacement mount for 2.5" springs but all use a spherical bearing (Tein, Cusco, etc). I think I could buy these mounts and change to a rubber shaft mount. The platform is also a few inches higher so I could use a 10" spring which means I will be a bit further from coil bind (where spring rates start to vary). I plan on using the Bilstein coilover kit (actually made by Bilstein and has good reviews for fitment), but the spring mount at the top looks like it can't be used. See pic.

I've been looking into doing a coilover conversion for my Bilstein shocks. Currently I have King springs in the rear and some overly short sagged random coils at the front. I notice a few people have changed to the coilover kit that uses motorsport springs (with rear helpers) and they seem to get good results. Essentially doing what is discussed in this thread: Coilover thread Anyway my question specifically relates to the upper spring mount. There are 2-ways to mount the spring. One way is against the body and separate from the shaft, the other is along the shaft with force against the shaft mount. Pic 1 - this is the kind of thing I am talking about. 1. To mount the spring similar to factory where the spring sit hard against the body mount (not the shaft mounted). In this configuration the shock can change angle slightly compared to the spring. Pic 2 Advantages: Spring load is transferred direct to the body as designed. Less load on rubber shaft mount (red arrow in pic 4). I would expect that the rubber bushings and the shaft thread is not designed to take the full force of springs and shocks. Disadvantages: The shock shaft can move at a different angle to the spring loading (I am not sure how extreme this angle would be on the Skyline). 2. To mount the spring on the shaft with the force against the shaft mount (shown in pic 4). Pic 3 Pic 4 Advantages: The shock shaft can move at a different angle to the spring loading (I am not sure how extreme this angle would be on the Skyline). This means the spring does not bow under compression during angle changes. Disadvantages: A LOT of load on the rubber shaft mount (red arrow in pic 4). I would expect that the rubber bushings and the shaft thread is not designed to take the full force of springs and shocks. Also the force of the spring is damped by a rubber bush both up and down. I think these rubber bushes and shaft thread would only be designed for absorbing the loads of the damping action - not the spring load as well (a much higher force). So...any comments? Does the strut change angle significantly during it's stroke? If not I will install the spring hard up against the original spring mount and allow the shaft to move inside it as shown here: I did see a pic of the Eibach upper perch but it sit below the large rubber bush from stock. This was from a member here "noone". Wouldn't this bush be compressed so much that the mount is hitting against the body? Or perhaps this is the best way, where the shaft mount is not subject to the forces as the big rubber bush transfers the load to the chassis?

I'm guessing 200kph = 7500rpm so it looks to be 4500rpm for full boost currently. Can't wait to see the results fully tuned.

True but that might be pre-2010. I like the new Topgear clarification (or was it Motor?). What you described may now be called a hypercar, and supercars are simply REALLY fast sports cars. But I'm not comfortable calling a GTR a supercar, perhaps a super car but not a supercar.

OK thanks. Out of interest what ID and spring rates, lengths did you go for? I assume the threaded section has to be welded to the shock body?

I asked King Springs for 4.5kg front and 4kg rear (at catalogue lowered height) and they said they could do it BUT they won't be captive at full droop. Mr Untouchable are your springs captive at full droop, or did you have to alter something else?

Bringing it back from the dead ! I voted S15. I've driven many S14 and owned one. I've driven S15 (three), R34 (one stock) and my own R33 (from stock to Bilstein now). IMHO: The S15 is a bit better than the R34 mainly because it is lighter (especially front end) and has the helical diff. But the R34 in stock form is pretty good, if only it had a helical diff and slightly stiffer springs it would be great. The R34 GTR had a 100% increase in torsional stiffness (think I read that in wheels when released) so the R34 GTT is probably also a LOT stiffer than the R33 GTST. This meant Nissan could put in stiffer suspension from factory and it will handle stiffer springs aftermarket. But an R33 with strut brace (std on R34), helical diff and decent springs (4kg/mm) and shocks would go a long way to a similar spec R34 and S15 (bar weight). The R-series has the advantage of wishbone front end which is going to help when the corner speed increase.

15mm spacers would go close enough for you (but 8" won't be really flush - too thin). Make sure they are hubcentric. If you run more than +25 offset on the front it will scrub if you corner hard. That's why you really want 9.5" rims on the front - wider rims means the edge of the rim will sit out further with the same offset. Then you could run 9.5" +25 on the front and it'll be flush and not much tread scrubbing.

Twin turbos as probably not more efficient. The surface area to volume of twin turbos is higher. Greater surface area means greater heat loss plus the issue of friction and boundary layer effects (plus double the bearings)

Thanks for the pics - I'd take the spacers off the back if I was you. The rear look to be a bit too far out. Front looks perfect (+27) If they made 9" +27 or 9.5" +30 I'd be on them in a heartbeat.

I'm just hoping for a 7670 next year. As long as they have it sorted by then I'll be happy. No need for twin scroll since it is RB25 - but it would be nice to have the option. First up I think EFR should suspend taking orders until they can be filled promptly. That looks like 22kph lower onset of boost - is this about 800rpm? (4000rpm vs 4800rpm?) Either way it's a shedload - is the response even better than -5 ?

Yeah only pay for a metric only set. I have imperial spanners in the bottom of the tool chest I never use (my Dad's stuff). I have bought some KC Tools stuff lately and it seems really good and it is cheap. I also have JBS ratchet spanners which I can't fault. The only item I really need now is deep offset ring spanners (75° deep).

Mazda 6 handles better but Accord Euro has a nicer gearbox and better engine. If you can cop the sadness of owning an Aurion then these are the best value car 4 years old. You get one from the auction houses for the price of a night at the movies and it'll even have leather.

People would have seen less R35 GTRs. I think it is that simple - rarity. Plus there is a touch more tall poppy syndrome in Brisbane with regards to extreme wealth (Lambo/Fezz, etc). The Gallardo is not uncommon in Brisbane - I seem to see more of them there than anywhere else (capital cities). The convertibles especially scream w@nker. But they are probably nice enough people. Haters gunna hate.

Yeah that track look awesome - wish I had the cash and spare parts to have a drive of it.

Was OK but needed - more females and less time between events. If only there was a separate track for the drift cars.

1. Did you back flush the radiator or flush it in the normal direction? Did you use radiator flush? Could the radiator be partially blocked or mostly blocked? Using radiator flush can actually BLOCK your radiator if you aren't careful and back flush it properly. It is a good idea to remove the radiator pipes while cleaning out a system that may have a lot of gunk. When I "cleaned" my system all the gunk simply collected in the radiator so I bought a new thicker dual core. 2. It takes awhile to bleed the system properly. Make sure the overflow hose flows properly, is not blocked or leaking (IMPORTANT). Refill the overflow bottle to MAX line (if it has dropped this is a sign that there was/is air pockets) Check the level in the radiator, it has probably dropped if their was air pockets. Refill if required. Put on the radiator cap and Start the car again, let it warm up. Create a fast idle (wedge the throttle open a few mm). Crack open the top screw, then remove it completely for a few seconds and then put it back on, repeat a few times. Eventually you will get a more steady trickle. You're done ! It help is you park on a slight uphill driveway. Take it for a drive and check the overflow bottle for fluid dropping (only compare when cold!). Refulla s required. It might drop 1cm or so for the first few drives. This is removing the last few air bubbles. If it keeps dropping then you have leakage problems. If it gets to 95° then it either has quite a lot of air trapped or the radiator is partially blocked.

Between the footwells, above the gearbox. I think it is the valve under there on the big white HVAC. A big coat hanger looking thing underneath - is that it?

From memory: Nissan recommend 7.5w-30 (in JAPAN) on new engines. Probably to help fuel consumption. I'd go with 5w-40 (Shell Ultra or Fuchs or Motul if you can afford it) NISMO recommend 10w-60 for track work. Yeah the oil seems thin when it comes out cause it is warm. If it is much thinner then it is diluted with a LOT of fuel - doubtful. I've tested viscosity of a few oils new and used from my car after 7500km and there is a bees dick in them. Used oils are slightly thinner - a few percent which was probably fuel. FWIW viscosity at 99°C in Cst crankcase oil SAE 20 >>>>> 5.7-9.6 crankcase oil SAE 30 >>>>> 9.6-12.9 crankcase oil SAE 40 >>>>> 12.9-16.8 crankcase oil SAE 50 >>>>> 16.8-22.7

No that's just people stuffing up with cars in general. Unfortunately most people only have a narrow training focus and have no care in the world about topic that do not relate precisely to them. This is especially prevalent in Australia where specific knowledge is high but general intelligence is lacking. Glad you found the fix. However I see the factory service mentality of just replacing every part possible has bitten you on the arse. Sorry to hear.