simpletool

+1 for flare nut spanners brake lines are often aluminium which is soft. a 10/12mm flare nut spanner is ~$12 at Veks tools.

So ~3800rpm in 2nd. Still pretty responsive. It'll be at least a couple of hundred rpm later. But I'm still impressed. My AX53B70 makes 15psi around 3400rpm in 4th and 3900rpm in 2nd and mine is a much smaller turbo. I'm thinking I'd love a GTX3071 with 0.63 (hopefully it won't have the overboost issues).

So you have an RB30 or RB28? Or are using Nitrous? 2nd gear 18psi below 3500rpm is HKS 2530 territory on an RB25.

A spray with silicon spray is a good idea if they are already lubed. This can help to redistribute the lube. If you don't have any please go and buy some as it works wonders for bush squeeks. Do not use WD40 or RP7 or anything with solvents, etc. Silicon spray is safe to use on rubber and urethane.

+1 +1 As for decent split dump systems. A good split dump would be great but ones that the pipes don't match up the turbine outlets (almost all of them) would create massive turbulence issues. A good split dump require the flange to be well adapted to the turbo outlet. The 2835 Pro S split dump is short but looks really well made, I'm sure that is part of the reason these turbos respond so well on the RB25. I've changed to a bellmouth and I prefer the sound it makes - without the whooshing from the wastegate.

I remember the guns at the Ferny Hills K-mart in Brisbane. This was about 20 years ago, 22 or 23 years at the most. America's homicide problems isn't just to do with guns. It's the high crime rate in general most likely due to conflicts arising from the large economic divide between upper-middle class and poor. Very typical to have high crime rates in countries with large socio-economic divides. You can also find a significant correlation between areas within countries. The higher crime rate due to this social divide may actually be the reason people feel they need guns. So a catch-22. Compare with the larger social nets and taxes of UK, Australia to dampen the social divide.

+1 for 5" exhaust would be better. For a turbo car the turbine and housing create back pressure for the exhaust valves. However a huge exhaust like 5" means the idle and response below 2000rpm would be a bit different.

Check those offsets, strange for a 370z. They are quite different front/rear normally.

What about all the metallic particles left in the oil, there is no oil filter. I would change around 80,000km still.

Probably v similar to the ballistic one I got (with 4.5" body). See the thread for that.

I wouldn't ever post that on a public forum that is easily searchable..with a picture of a conspicuous car....and will still be here in years to come. Especially with so little to gain from writing it.

The T25 turbine isn't the right shape for the T3 rear housing. You can match the exducer size but typically it doesn't work so well (from what I have READ...no experience here). You want the T25 housing matched to the T3 footprint - which the HKS housing GTRS has and that is what makes it sooo good. They typically make 240rwkw when setup correctly. With 1 bar at 3200rpm or so and will hold almost entirely to redline. A 0.86 housing will make more torque, a 0.64 housing will make torque earlier but won't support that size compressor. If I did it I'd get the T3 > T28 adapter (and machine it to fit the flanges well) and use a 0.86 T28 housing and the 56 trim compressor. It'll prob make the same power. ...............but it won't be as responsive as the genuine RB-specific GTRS.

Yes it will flow 350kw, what you want to know is how much restriction it makes at that power level - or efficiency. A twin 2.25" could flow enough for 450kw, but the back pressure will be higher than you want and so it will be inefficient. True but twin pipes also have higher surface area per volume, so I would imagine they allow for more volume attenuation. Then again, you could just run longer muffler on a single pipe.....meh. Yep twin 2.25 is a touch bigger than 3" for flow. twin 2.5" is a 3.5"

33yr old, Sydney (Ex-BNE), male. Bought a Skyline because I kinda liked my S14 but I broke a gearbox when I owned one (only 190rwkw). That and I didn't think the front end was all that rigid. Considered an S15, but again.....I'd break the gearbox and they were pretty small. Apart from the there was the series 7/8 RX7, but I do too many km for that. Didn't want to spend more than 20k (4 years) ago so performance Euro stuff was WAYYYY out of the question. p.s. I'm allergic to front wheel drive. anyway, I liked the idea of a more cruisy car than the s-series plus the motor is less stressed and a bit more lazy but wakes up with some throttle. Virtual bullet proof driveline and pure RWD is nice. Can't say I aspire to any newer cars but if I could I would like to midify a FG XR6 turbo (but I'd probably hate the stupid cheap crap that broke on it). But yep, Skylines have a bad image. Then again, people tend to let you in, don't cut you off so much, rarely complain or beep and very rarely tailgate (compared to driving typical cars).

Depends how you drive more than torque. The static torque and dynamic torque ratings are VERY different. ie. static torque is not slipping, dynamic is slipping. Most clutches are rated at torque levels (and power levels derived) not to exceed dynamic torque. But only drag racing is likely to cause the clutch to have to engage near max torque (ie. full boost at 4500rpm).

^^^ only slightly, and the 0.63AR housing tends to overboost, while the 0.82AR housing response is very close to the 3076. The 3071 is best with a cropped rear wheel in the correct (HKS) housing....ala 2835.

Cost was $290, but the prices might vary a bit. This was with flanges. I figure $290 for slight gain, and more response. And I'd pay $870 for triple the benefits in a heartbeat.

Yeah when I post from work I can get a bit technical...bad habit. Essentially less back pressure is multiplied by the turbine housing to be even more back pressure in the exhaust manifold. The exhaust air and sometimes (valve overlap) intake air must work against this back pressure somewhat when filling the engine. Less back pressure is a good thing.

OK so I installed a 3" ballistic cat from Sureflo with 4.5" 100 cell body. Came with flanges and bolted straight in. Even had a spot perfectly located for mounting the temp probe. Previously I had a 300cell high-flow ceramic cat (3" pipe and didn't have the temp probe bung). Sound: At idle it sounds slight crisper but not noticeably louder. Onto boost and full noise it is also crisper sounding and probably 3db louder. (ie. definitely noticeable but nothing overly dramatic to the ear). Performance (objective): Well objectively I can say the car makes 0.5psi more max boost on all 3 manual settings with my IDIII controller. 12.2 became 12.8 14.1 became 14.6 15.0 became 15.5 It also reaches boost 200rpm earlier in 2nd and 3rd (yes I can plot this accurately). These were all average measurements at similar night temperatures (yes it varies a little with temp). But this is repeatable and probably conservative as it was warmer than the previous night. Performance (subjective): Well here it gets difficult. It does feel faster even at the same boost pressure as before. Overall: Well obviously the cat reduced back pressure in the exhaust which means extra performance. how much? I'd say the the 3-4% figure seems about right which means another 7 to 9kw at the wheels. This would entirely come about from the reduced pressure differential between intake and exhaust. With typical turbine pressure ratios of 1.8 to 2.0 I'd estimate I have reduced back pressure after the turbine by 1psi 1psi drop??? Does that matter?: My car would produce ~900lb/min exhaust flow. Taking bench testing results this would mean ~2.5psi for a 300cell cat and 1.5psi for a 100cell 4.5" body. Then I'd add 1psi for the down pipe and 1psi for the rest of the exhaust. giving a previous total of 4.5psi, and a new total of 3.5psi. the pre-turbine pressure would then be: now, (3.5+14.5)*1.8 = 32.4psi (17.9 relative) before, (4.5+14.5)*1.8 = 34.2 (19.7 relative) I have intake pressure of 14.5 so the ratio of intake to exhaust pressure was 19.7/14.5 = 1.36 but now it is 1.23 And that ratio is efficiency and explains both the extra power and the boost creep. In the end I have made a shed load of assumptions in the above and am probably now qualified to write a Today Tonight expose. But really I just like the crisper and slightly louder sound plus a bit more power (all while being a bit green). I also have a spare cat in working condition should the emissions testing get more severe (but atm I think I'd pass pretty comfortably).

Well going from the tech specs it would indeed look like the GTX3071 would be perfect for an RB25. It appears to be made for a 2.5L engine. The island is fattest at 2.5 pressure ratio (about 1.1-1.2bar intake pressure), and goes from 210 to 550lb flow. This should match the 60mm turbine wheel very well. I've got to look into this further. If only they made a 0.7 housing option with a bigger waste gate and sectioned it off (ala GT2835 style).

The mind of a thief is pretty smart. Even the dumber ones know that there is no money in Police chasing down car thieves. The only real tracking work likely to be done is via a photo in the mail to you 3 weeks after they go through a speed camera. That simply sucks man. Stealing should be 12 months jail followed by 12 months hard labor (training for new job)- for first offence. 3 years labor 2nd offence, death for 3rd. And almost as harsh penalties from 13years old.

It CAN mean this but can also just be the springs on the clutch plate itself (not an issue). Define "clicking" noise. The broken clutch bracket is more a cracking sound rather than clicking.

To the OP, good idea to sell them off. These are the largest low mounts you can get, and by the time the engine got suitable to use even 80% of the flow of these the odds are you would go single turbo purely for the simplicity of the setup/reliability/heat. There may be some attitude coming at you from some of the guys here but the collective knowledge on this forum is massive. To get the best of it you will need to do some reading (searching threads) in order to post more specific questions. Alternatively thinking "what turbos and build of RB26 would suit ***** track" and asking that question may get you some good answers. Having a certain set maximum power goal (without much in-depth knowledge of the engine) is usually interpreted as either a wanna be drag racer or dreamer. Far better to think in terms of torque band. Hope you weren't offended, feel free to post other questions. We just get a lot of dreamers on here who already know what they want and post questions. Like most things in life you've going cop some flack, there will be differing opinions, people will mis-read the question, etc. so relax and read.

Yeah well after it still not idling or changing gears smoothly the engine check light cam on.....AGAIN. So I popped the bonnet and took all the bits off the throttle body. Gave it a clean with degreaser, checked all electrical connectors, gave some rubber bits a silicon spray, took some slack out of the cable, etc. Put it all back together again. Smooth as a baby, engine check light gone, idles lovely, changes gears perfectly. So yep, just muppets really. I'd do it all myself normally but it needs a log book stamp - if only I could get my hands on one of those stamps.

and back to watching Australian Story.