simpletool

You measured the wheels both exducer and inducer - if the measurements are the same as 2835's - the link I gave you with FACTS. Actually measurements to within 0.1mm. Then count the blades on the rear = 10 (25 series have 9 blades) Then see that they are badged at 2835. Now nothing is certain in this world, not even Newtonian physics, but I'd be pretty damn sure they are 2835. Even if they aren't the blade charaterisctics of size, pitch and number of blades ensures they will behave like a 2835.....unless they are Chinese copies made from balsa wood.

I trust you aren't talking to me with this rant? I'm helping you out here. Cause all I've given you is facts, my only opinions such as I've given previously eg. "looks like" are stated like that because of my uncertainly of YOUR measurements. I'm in the business of measurements and I see people FARK up all the time. You'd be amazed how much an effect preconceptions and subjectivity can have on objective measurements. ie. FACTS aren't always facts.

haha I have no idea why some guys are saying they aren't 2835s?? They seem to be guessing based on one known set of 2835 with different housings. Definitely NOT 2530, or 25 anything. The rear wheel is 10 blade with pitch that looks EXACTLY like a GT30 based wheel - although cropped to 56mm. Which is what a 2835 is. These just appear to have different housing - perhaps earlier (or later) models?

Only other thing to check to completely confirm is the turbine exducer diameter (tip diameter). Typically 84 trim so 52mm (51.8mm). And hell why not confirm the inducer diameter of the compressor wheel? Should be 53mm for 56trim. http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=709

They look to be 2835's. 10blade turbine wheel at 56mm, say 2835 on the housing, measured as 71mm compressor (56 trim) on the housing. Probably sitting in small T3 housing blended into a T28 footprint - just like 2835's.

I don't see the problem in building an engine around a set of turbos. Actually it's a fairly good philosophical perspective for an engine build. Atmospheric engines are built around the physics (pressure, flow behaviour, density) of our existing atmosphere.

Turns out it was a sensor on the throttle body that wasn't connected properly. And obviously they said "it took use ages to work out what it was". Well well....would have been my first place to check, and don't they have scanners that report disconnected sensors ? They did a throttle body clean during the 60,000km service (although I'd be 99% certain it wasn't even close to be required at 49,000km).

Just a quick update. Girlfriend is on her way to work today and the engine check light comes on (car has done ~10km since service). Auto gearbox is changing gears very rough, no other problems. My bet is the mechanics forgot to put a sensor back on when they changed the belts, or broke something. Back to Holden we go....again.

I am taking those things nto consideration, and it's still appalling. Holdens are not significantly cheaper than competitors on product for product. Especially taking service costs into consideration, they are much more expensive. Got the car back to day and the service at 60,000km cost $1200, not $1050 as quoted. Holden Viva 60,000km service (or 4 years) replace ancillaries belt replace timing belt oil, plugs fluids flush check this, check that...bla bla bla Total cost = $1200 ! I have never heard of a Japanese car requiring such an expensive service at only 60,000km. Yes, I'm sure some people have problems with Japanese cars too, but not very many at all. I might add that there was 1 other customer in for a service and he was pissed off too. Leaking windows and bluetooth that wasn't connecting (service rep said it was a known problem). Anyway, obviously she has learnt her lesson so never to Holden again. And she will listen to me a bit better next time.

+1 Sorry to bring up an older off-topic thread that is going nowhere. But Lithium makes a v good point. (first time I have used peanut butter jelly man I swear)

Holden Viva, has anyone had any experience with these? My girlfriend bought one new 3 years ago just when we started dating. It was too early then to tell her not to go Holden/GM/Daewoo. 1.8L, automatic, hatch. Note: Car has just come out of warranty Anyway, the problems so far (apart from ticking engine noise, rattles and generally a poor driving experience): 1. Gearbox neutral sensor (caused gear change issues). Took 3 visits to 2 dealers to diagnose and fix. 2. ABS sensor light, about 10 times now. Been to dealer around 10 times, cleaned sensor 2 or 3 times, replaced sensor around 4 times, replaced driveshaft twice (all under warranty), still occurred again yesterday. 3. Loose and rattling rear roof spoiler (only just found the culprit last weekend, need to fix myself). Must have come undone at the occasional 80kmh Sydney speeds. Now we take it in for a "major service" at 60,000km (although it has travelled only 49,000km) and it need a scheduled service that replaces the ancillaries belt and they check (and I presume replace) bearing and tensioner for the cam belt. Cost = $1050 ! But it doesn't end there. They call her and inform the car needs 2 x front strut mounts and bearings + 3 hours labour. Additional ~$700. Anyway, I call up and say I can do the strut tops and bearings myself at home and just do the normal service. Material cost for strut tops and bearings: Strut tops $115 each Bearings $70each. Total $370. So obviously labour is $110 an hour, which I guess is pretty normal (but $180 at VW/Audi apparently) Anyway, the car sucks and the GF is not happy with the entire Holden brand. Not sure why they get government money to dish up products that leave Australians feeling ripped off. Feel free to comment/flame/agree/whatever.

Full boost around 6000rpm sounds about right, which means you'll need to change each gear at over 8000rpm to keep on boost. I'd stick with mild cams ~270° max, with moderate lift. High lift and duration cams are harder on the valve train. The large turbos will extend the top end significantly anyway. Just focus on getting a lighter and stronger reciprocating mass. Get some strong and light pistons, rods, nice bearings and get the crank checked. Probably look at a dry sump setup. Can't see a stock RB26 holding onto those revs at high boost for long, especially on a track.

what depth? Yes ISC are hub centric, the thick ones are. If they are hubcentric then obviously 73.1mm won't fit as 73.1 does not equal 66.1mm.

Pulp paper is still used in some of the most expensive and best sounded speakers in the world. I think the real problem with paper cones is that the material itself can be destroyed easily due to poor environment conditions and moisture.

Adjust the clutch at the pedal bracket for more throw. Try another 5mm of stroke at the pedal, see if it improves things. ie. Seems the clutch isn't fully disengaged.

Lighweight shockproof. It's until it's full up to the fill point, more than 3L for sure.

If you still have the CF gear stick surround, gear stick boot and handbrake boot let me know the price. I'd be keen at a nice price. I can pick up. PM me.

If you cleaned up the carbon deposits on the valves and gave it new valve springs the old motor might have done alright

WRX = gearbox issues. Sti no gearbox problems (6 speed) but you still have engine, CV joint, clutch, etc. The Evo was designed with high performance in mind far more than the Sti. IF you are just using it as a daily a STi with exhaust will be OK. I'd still steer clear of a WRX, especially if you've come from an R32 (you will break shit you didn't even know existed).

I concur. Do you concur? The pod filter will be entirely useless and not help power goals at all. It will also greatly increase the "I've got a stock turbo that spools even when I am being overtaken up a hill by a corrola sound"....which is the most ghey aspect of any R33 GTST ownership experience. If you get a good full exhaust, panel filter, R34 side mount then you will probably make more than 160rwkw, perhaps closer to 170rwkw (if it matters). If you plan on changing the turbo skip the R34 side mount step, and add a Front mount WHEN you install the larger turbo.

Doesn't matter but some brands are better than others, and well...some are the same. How are they creaking? Do they just need some "lube action" or are they busted and have play?

You will need a full twin system. You want the maximum cross-sectional area coupled with sufficient wall surface area to provide sound dampening. A 2 x 2.75" system would suit you well. Cross-sectional area equivalent to 3.8", surface area equivalent to a 2.75" (but doubled obviously, although this cancels out). Ta-da.....custom exhaust twin 2.75" with decent resonator/s and muffler/s. HKS has the N1 full-dual (prob too loud), 2 x 3" apparently. Kakimoto has one in 2 x 2.75" but again too loud (they say 103db with stock turbos!) However you can see the possibilities, the Kakimoto system has minimal resonators and mufflers, so making a quieter custom system would be no issue.

I tell usually by sound at lower gears and tacho at higher gears, and in practice (on the street) I always short shift before 5000rpm. I probably exceed 5000rpm about once per week at most (daily driving). Can't remember the last time I went past 6000rpm, on the street it just isn't required (theoretically it would be required for a drag race). On the street in 1st and 2nd gear with any sort of corner I short shift to get into the next gear so I can ride the torque wave through and out of the corner. This means precise throttle modulation is less of a factor and it saves a gear change and means less wear(2nd has more power but can't usually put it all to the ground). Adding bumps into the equation in Sydney just makes it even more relevant. Just cruising I change at the point the revs start at 2000rpm -2200rpm in the next gear....or what feels right.

Yeah I'd like to retrim my R32 GTR seats also...as would another mate of mine. But the cost is always at least $400 per seat, so people go new seats. There is definitely a market for retrimming GTR seats....just need a decent price and some pics of completed work. I'd be happy with a half decent job so if anything I'll give it a go myself with help from clark rubber, a shark knife, spray glue and some fabric.

I'd imagine that - Before the reg will be pump pressure, which needs to be higher than the set reg pressure. After the reg should be the set reg pressure + boost.