simpletool

You could adjust the MAP sensor temp calibration table above 70°c intake or whatever was deemed abnormally high. I have no practical experience with this, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Yep, I'd expect the same interior quality and drive/ride balance of the 1-series. ie. pretty poor. I highly doubt BMW can make a good low priced car. The Aussie mark-up, the fixed costs of the company, the existing supplier base are all based around a higher priced product and all point to an inability to produce a competitive cheap product vs the Japanese. I think it'll be good in some areas.....but pretty poor overall for the money....ala 1-series (barring the big engine models). Now hopefully they prove me wrong because there are only a handful of car companies that keep my faith in modern cars and BMW is one of them. I hope I don't have to add them to the recently binned list with Toyota.

you're not the only one who finds jap stuff more reliable than European. But when it comes to oilers they make good ones (if you give them the right fuel). I'd go with Polo 1.9 for cheap.

+1 The science is with you on this one. Not sure about ANY boost level being acceptable, as there are a few design limitations you need to consider. Like valve spring pressure, rod strength, chamber design, etc. Depends on what you call safe and reliable. I personally would think 1.1bar, but if you have a fat tune, no pinging and aren't pushing the turbo too hard I'm sure 1.4 bar could be considered safe - if given a large enough margin to cope with varying fuel, temperature, filter blockages. But...a 2871 at over 1.1bar on a 2.5L would be running into choke (unless you taper the boost down as the revs rise ala Evo-style)

I hope not.

I've had both Z2 and Z3 on my car, both new 1 day apart. I can tell you the Z3 is a MUCH better tyre than the Z2. And for barely more money, like $30 each. I paid $250 per tyre for the Z3, 235/40/18. If the Pilot Sport 2 was <$300 I'd consider it.

You need a ECU, then the typical safe limit is 1.1bar, 17psi, 110000Pas, you choose.

stock dump and stock turbo?, I wouldn't expect you'd notice too much with a 3 or 4% increase anyway. It's worth about 1psi in power if you are running 1bar.

Yep and even if they caught them the courts wouldn't give them much of a sentence. Crimes like this could do with some capital punishment. I'm fine with killing someone for even a moderate level crime such as this. Treat others as you expect to be treated....I would expect to get my arse totally kicked or even be killed if I broke into a persons house and stole their stuff. Don't care if they were only 16yrs old. It's not as if they were stealing to get some food, or committed a crime to defend themselves.

All cats are going to cause a restriction, it's just how much. OK, so I am the only one with some data. I'm giving it a go. My cat has been on for 80,000km and is ceramic so I might as well replace it now. Another bonus is it will make the exhaust sound a bit deeper and louder, and mine is fairly quiet now. Hopefully I can get a bolt-on from Sureflo.

yeah meant to be 8mm apart from memory. MAke sure the groove is clean before you put the circlip in. Amazing how small a landing there is to hold up the car.

HKS Silent cat back.....hmmmm With 400hp @ 15psi currently. All else being equal you would get 465hp at 20psi and 515hp at 24psi. So you should get to 500hp between 22 or 23psi - if nothing causes a decrease in efficiency.

There should be not outlet on the catch-can, other than the drain plug. That drain plug has the plug in it....right? Otherwise you are drawing in unmetered air through the catch can. Anyway, I've put some details in the photo. Dont' mind my other comments, I got a bit carried away. The PCV valve should only allow air to flow INTO the manifold, but not from the manifold and into the cam cover. You might have to check other threads for the RB20 PCV valve and where it is. you can test by blowing into it each way,

I'd be wary of "single cell" cats......I heard they can be VERY expensive. OK so let's assume it's $300 for a 4% power bump. That's pretty decent.

The usual height for king springs is to use the middle one out of 5, but you might want to use the next one up - 2nd from the top. It's not too hard to put it on there and give it a try then try again , that is if you have spring compressors. I have moved my front and rear up a notch to make everyday driving easier.

Yeah go Nistune with the stock ECU you have. Your tuner shouldn't have a problem using it at all but best to find one who uses it regularly. S14a huh, make sure you get some pineapples and strut bars. Those things are loose as a goose when stock. A turbo like the 2860 or 2871 is also a good idea if you can get one cheap.

I think the hub is what supports the wheels, in the case of a Nissan this is 66.1mm. I wouldn't expect the strut tower to see an inward force anywhere near as strong as the force exert at the wheel hub but I do see your point. I don't mind bending the mount on the strut bar, I wasn't so keen on deforming the area at the top of th strut tower and was wary of marks in case I wanted to remove it.

I'm not sure what a plate type centre is? The LSD centre bolts into the crown wheel (the S15 helical and clutch type both fit). The important differences between the centres is the required shaft diameter and number of splines that exits both sides of the centre. AFAIK the S15 centres requires the S15 output shafts which are a 6 bolt type - so they won't bolt to the Skyline 5-bolt axles. So you need the complete half shafts with the centre.

ahh ha. Found a dyno comparison after some searching. Makes about a 4% improvement from a ceramic cat and about a 3% drop from a straight pipe. Gain of 14whp on an Evo that started with 300whp (gains over entire curve). http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/330000-ceramic-cat-vs-100-cell-metal-substrate-cat.html

I'm after some performance points.....and I like the ones that come without a downside (besides money). So anyway I have ~230rwkw, a nice dump pipe and exhaust (Fujitsubo twin 2.5") but I remember I bought a ceramic cat cause I only had a stock turbo back then. So, should I now fit a high flow 100 cell metal cat? If I replaced the cat with a metal cat would I even notice where my $400 went? Anybody got some dyno numbers to back up claims? Seem that the 3" outlet/inlet with 4" 100 cell biscuit is the go.

The KC tools flare nut spanner are STUPIDLY cheap from VEK Tools and have a nice thick head on them. I paid $20 for both a 10/12mm and 13/14mm spanners here in Sydney.

2 issues here: 1. Yeah that catch can isn't plumbed correctly ...but it's more just a case of it being 50% effective (at best) rather than causing a pressure build up. The two cam covers should be connected directly by a hose and the catch can plumbed into the line going out the right hand side of the diagram - between right hand side cam cover and intake pipe. 2. Unless.....the PCV valve isn't working. See the hose coming from the manifold and onto the T-piece? Is the 1-way valve working to stop manifold pressure from entering the cam cover at the t-piece. Sorry I only know how the R33 one works (which has a 1-way valve) at the cam cover. ohhh and where does that right-hand side pipe end up? hopefully in the intake before the turbo. ie stock location.

Disco what gains would you expect from the 10.8cm housing change to an Evo9 turbo? A good friend of mine is near the limit of this std turbo Evo IX and was thinking of GT3071 upgrade. Obviously the HKS turbo is between the 3071 and 3076 but a housing swap might be better BFYB.

No I'm saying Mazda should do it. Would be very easy for them. Apparently Mazda UK has put in an expression of interest to Mazda HQ for said car. And a turbo/supercharged 4-cyl isn't really that comparable to a NA rotary.

Do you prefer an AWD super quick car with fast reflexes or do you want a RWD quick cruiser that can also handle well but needs a few decent mods? Put some soft coilovers and a GT2835 and supporting mods on a R34 GTT and it would be more than quick enough for you (considering it is 2WD). Woudl end up being the same money as a decent Evo 8 I would think.