simpletool

Mazda has doubled the number of engineers on the rotary in the last 12 months. So it appears to be something that IS happening. The completely fresh design, direct injection and longer stroke should make it use a LOT less fuel....as long as they only go into light cars. Although the RX8 was comparatively light it was still too heavy for the 13B. The 16X should have about 30% more torque. Please please put it in an MX5, then turbo and put into a 2-seater RX7.

Yeah the later model Evo engines run MUCH more boost than 14psi. They have 14psi at max power but they run a nice fat 4 or 5 psi bump in the mid-range. The pre-remap dyno sheets of Evo X with just an exhaust run 23psi in the mid-range and under 11:1 AFR to keep it cool. The turbos that mitsubishi selected were an awesome bit of kit with a decent sized turbine. The thing I like best about the Evo is the super quick steering rack - lovely. Definitely my GTST feels sluggish around the tight corner. But I like my torque and LOVE the rear slip angles you can make even on part throttle in 2nd and 3rd with a 2.5L and mild turbo upgrade.

Gearbox says no. 353rwkw so around 430kw at the engine. That's 240kw/tonne or 116 mph trap speed (minimum).

except I was converting flywheel to rear wheel. Not horsepower to kw.

You mean if I was wrong it would be in the right section. But I'm not wrong....ever.

N15 is an excellent choice.

this unless you actually MEANT reliable....then no. Fiat 850

yeah yeah that's what I meant.....virgin TIGERS blood.....haha

They are bloody pathetic at getting that power to the ground then !!! Obviously need some 19 x 10 on the back and 275/35/19s. Btw each car is different. I use [(Engine Kw)-15]x 0.85 = rwkw.................. ...............but then again...I'm a d!ckhead.

For future reference I change my oil and filter every 50km, and wash and polish it every 2nd day with virgins blood and organic carnauba wax.

So here I am daydreaming again, this time about the upcoming (?) new rotary engine from Mazda, the 16X. Summary: 2 x 800cc rotors Direct injection Increased compression More fuel efficient (probably less revs) Here's my dreams/guestimations/predictions.... MX5 with 16X (NA), Torque 270Nm. Power 187kw @7300rpm RX8 with same engine and hybrid drive. (http://www.roadandtrack.com/future-cars/2014-mazda-rx-8) RX7 with 16X single turbo (mild boost 8psi). Torque 370Nm. Power 235kw @6800rpm. Weight 1260kg (2 seater only with rear luggage bench). Here's hoping they build something like these. With light weight and direct injection the rotary could be quite decent on fuel.

If you want a good looking drag car it's not a bad idea, but might as well use an alloy V8 and twin turbo. The entire point of an RX7 is the handling and packaging possible from the low weight and small size of the engine.

The honest answer is because you have a crap LSD. Get a better LSD and it will lay marks, just apply some slight brake pedal first. Note that the R32 was not designed to do burnouts.

btw this is the wrong section.

Yes they would be better with a 3.0L BUT. Evo VI weight ~1300kg with 2.0L = 650kg/L R34 GTR weight ~1550kg with 2.6L = 596kg/L So while I agree that bigger engine would be better an Evo needs a 2.2L to be equivalent capacity per weight to a stock GTR. (I'm not sure about the Evo VI midrange boost but the IX runs 19psi midrange and the X runs over 21psi - hence the torque.)

I can believe that review entirely however....... ^^^ +1 There are many situations where if he was in 3rd in the Evo he should select 2nd in the GTR. (Evo have a fat midrange, GTR more top end) It seems the guy drives the GTR with the same style as he does the Evo. To me you approach corners in an Evo as if it is a well balanced FWD, the GTR you drive as if it is RWD. He also needs more revs in the GTR (plus an exhaust and remap). plus the weight issue

Hard to concentrate right now but in my mind a boost leak won't show up in a leak test if the leak is not between the measuring points. ie. think outside the circle.... your engine is a MASSIVE boost leak...but it doesn't show up as it is after the final measuring point. Check all the hoses and connections from the manifold...where do they end up? Obviously it might be something else but boost leak seems very possible and relatively easy to sort out.

Leaking injector ?

Fitted a Just Jap R33 GTST strut brace (the blue type) on the weekend. Was a fairly tight fit (just fit over the mount point with the centre bar at full extension on the eye fittings). Clearance over the throttle body is only about 10mm so I'll have to investigate if it actually touches during full throttle (stock rubber engine mounts). Driving impressions: I was actually surprised at the difference it made. I was skeptical on strut bars on skylines as they don't use macpherson strut front suspension. But as soon as the front wheels crept down off the awkward angle driveway I could tell the front-end was tighter. Mid-corner response was significantly better - no way I could mistake it. Moderate speed to high speed turn-in is much better and mid-corner bumps are absorbed more by the suspension than the rest of the car chassis so the car stays on line better. I would think that a stock setup on 16" wheels it wouldn't be as noticeable but with some suspension mods and good tyres on 18" wheels you would notice. My suspension setup is mildly modded with some urethane bushes here and there, bilstein shocks, king springs and 18" wheels. Strut brace was definitely a worthy upgrade. Just need to check out if the clearance is enough. Side question: I put some high tensile washers under the mount points to lift the mount plate off the strut tops and make sure it wasn't all twisted by the uneven area of the car there. It also have another 2mm of clearance but I'm wondering if having washers under the mount plate is a good thing or a bad thing.

Symptoms are saying BOOST LEAK to me Low power with current boost - tick Knock with more boost - tick Overheated compressor wheel - tick Slow onset of boost?? - tick Is 6rwhp enough of a gain for dropping the exhaust? only 2%

Lanzar............!!! That's the brand of splits I had in my first car, back 1997 with a Rockford Fosgate amp. Thanks sapphiregraphics, you're signature reminded me. Sorry, nothing more to add. Except speaker choice is really up to personal preference. Scientific measures are as useful to comparing speakers as they are to picking the right shirt for a date.

H&R http://www.trakplus.com/ Any other questions?

I'm not sound engineer but I've had a couple of decent home and car systems and I try to keep up(more with home sound now) I've always been rewarded by following the rule that speakers must come from a speaker company, same for amps, Alpine can provide the complex electronics (source). As for spending money on amp vs speaker. Generally the influence of speakers is by bar the most important aspect of any half-decent decent system (so spend on good speakers and install over slightly better amp unless required). I'd agree with Aaron that $900 for splits is a bit much in 2011. Maybe back in 2000 it was needed but things are soo much cheaper now I couldn't justify it. Current (post 2005)model specifics I have no idea but are you sure you can't fit something a touch bigger than 6" in the doors???? How about a shallow 7" or 8" to bring the upper bass forward in the cabin? (AFAIK this type of thing can't be fixed with a equalizer). FWIW I currently have alpine head deck and proper splits in the doors (my own MDF mounts and Jaycar amp).

Yeah, it's got a long ramp section so it lifts pretty damn high (500mm) which is more than enough for 3 tonne chassis stands and lots of room to play under. All I need now is a pinch rail adapter. Made one by cutting off the end of a rubber mallet, then cut a deep slit into it to take the pinch rails. But when I used it the slit split further about half way to the base....so I'd say this is a bit risky. The polyurethane makers should start making and selling them...hint hint !! Here's one from overseas.

I agree that for sure that PVC tape isn't the best solution, I mainly put it there to see if that was the problem. I'd expect it to get crushed but at least I've isolated the problem, I'll see when the noise comes back. The mount on the car appeared to be in good condition as I cleaned and inspected it before going any further (obviously it could be slightly non-round but I would expect the shock mount to be weaker and therefore deform first). The issue appears to be that the bilsteins have too large mount holes (many posts about this on others cars with bilsteins, BMW especially). I think the fix might be urethane mount bushes without the inner metal sleeve.