simpletool

Proper shrouds around the fans will help either pushing or pulling. Fans pulling from the engine side is better though. Currently if the fans have no shrouds then they will be pushing air around the radiator as much as through it. Get some nice tight fitting shrouds, but yes they will block some in-coming air at high speeds - hence you want pulling fans.

as in the Rays forged wheels?

FWIW Yes, but that doesn't mean this isn't a problem for this engine. Aftermarket BOVs, especially atmo are just asking for trouble. (btw. blocking the atmo BOV means it is no longer an ATMO BOV and will actually CURE stalling and rough idle issues)

Almost certainly an intake piping air leak. In order of likelihood: 1. BOV 2. BOV 3. hose clamps /joins (but do not over-tighten and break them!) 4. small hose leak 5. plenum leak 6. intercooler leak 7. maybe an AFM problem (wiring or plug since you have changed the AFM).

Surely it applies to all offences? If not that just reinforces the "she'll be right if I don't speed" mentality.

RB25DET Easier power, more torque. Put a GT30 on it and mild boost will stop you giving it the large all the time. Unopened will do 280rwkw easy, closer to 300 if you lean on it.

Moore Park - cleveland St. Girlfriend got done there for 60kph in a 50kph zone on a Saturday. Why is that a 50kph zone out of school hours?

OK thanks guys. I just want to at least locate the most annoying noise first. I don't want to change all the bushes and find out it was something else...like the pump in the tank rattling.

Yeah 6 cylinder BMW is the go. But random repairs can be a bit rapey.

After mine were a bitch to get off the 1st time I have the whole shebang a coat of WD40. (yes it burns off after 10mins). It's been off a few times and swapped turbo since and no problems - also no nuts coming loose either and they aren't stupidly tight either.

To the OP - you might also want to give the pedal a bit more travel. this can be adjusted in the foot well above the pedal. When you lengthen the stop position you must also lengthen the rod a similar amount.

Bleed the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. There is a nipple on the slave and a nipple on the master. If you don't do both then the clutch probably won't work.

Anybody know if Snap-on or Blue Point still sell their low profile jack here?? There appears to be a close copy of it available. I'm getting pricing for it as below. Heavy Duty Low Profile & High Lift Garage Jack • Lifiting Capacity: 1000Kg • Minimum Height: 70mm • Maximum Height: 610mm • Net Weight: 51Kg • Rugged universal joint release valve • Metered release system allows for precise load control • Rolled side frame adds strength and rigidity to reduce twisting • Lift and position a vehicale on tall jack stands Product Code: TQ2039

Yep, and I've heard of a lot worse too.

Something fell and is touching the driveshaft/s.

Those last few issues seem like a BOV leak

Yeah the turbos normally crap themselves from getting too hot (which is only loosely related to compressor pressure), heat is much more related to exhaust flow (and the turbine restriction at too high shaft rpm). Therefore the flow of 10psi on an RB25 is similar to 15psi on an RB20. Simply: you can run a few more psi into an RB20 with an RB25 turbo.

Anybody put either Nismo or poly bushes in the control arms/A-arms in the rear? Any comments? I have sourced the parts but Nismo is about twice the price of poly.

H&R make them 66.1mm hub and 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, etc etc.

I want to replace most of the little the rear suspension bushes. All the ones I haven't done yet, which there are still PLENTY. This is because for the past 2 years I have had an annoying muffled rattle rattle every time my rear suspension goes over a ripple or tiny bump. It doesn't do it over large bumps or anything, it's most annoying over little ripples (which are EVERYWHERE in Sydney). I have done these in the last few years: HICAS removed SK suspension kit front camber bushes & caster bushes Pineapples front/Rear sway bar and links Steering rack mount I can only imagine the stock rubber are completely shagged and I want to replace them. Preferably with NISMO items rather than urethane. Can anyone help me here with where to go? What parts they have sourced? Someone who has done this before? How to do this without dealing with rip off merchants and mechanics who have no idea? I have the money for this project, I've wanted to do it for ages but after dealing with various suspension places and mechanics in general I just want to go somewhere that are competent.

Yeah definitely: 1. Nistune (or some ECU) 2. Intercooler (preferably medium sized with good piping) 3. Fuel pump + replace old fuel hoses/clamps. Cam gears ? not sure they are a good spend. Currently the AFRs need to be richer from 4000rpm up. It's running 13-13.2 AFR while coming onto boost. Personally I'd get that down below 12.5 towards 12.0 and then trending down to 11.5 higher up (6000rpm +). I have no practical experience with RB20 with RB25 turbos but I'd expect the full 14psi by 4000rpm (an RB25 can do 12psi at 3000rpm). So it's an auto yeah? A manual would expect approx 160-165rwkw.

Super idea for high density areas! Problems with people not cleaning up could be helped by: 1. Clearly stating the requirements and documenting workspace before/after (a fixed camera/s per workbay could help with this...and also be used for any mis-use/insurance situations). 2. Taking a refundable "clean-up" deposit 3. Having access to chemicals and items for clean-up and disposal. You could vary rates depending upon time of day/days of the week so that 9-5pm Mon-Fri is cheaper. If pre-booking works (which would be hard) then a computer could reward those who pre-book and use the service at low usage times (an algorithm could be used for this that reflects business costs. Kinda like Kogan.) With everything you need in one place this could really catch on as costs of tools, getting rid of oil and having a hoist is awesome! Still not sure this will work well. It could definitely work if you bring a mate and 2 of your work on the car to cut the times down. Then hiring a work place would be VERY handy, especially if you can store the car if something goes wrong. If I was to change all my brake lines then using a hoist would really help. Apart from the actual hoist though I'm not sure what else is handy? But I'd be happy to pay $50 - $60 for 2 hours.

For a R32/R33/R34 Skyline: Fronts will fit too far in. Rear will fit too far out. Front/rear offset is too different, will need minimum 20mm front spacers to rectify. Then all 4 guards will need massaging. FYI: 370z offsets are significantly different to 350z. 350z wheels can fit R-series easily. 370z has this large difference front/rear that the car suspension geometry was designed for.

OK OK.....I'll give it a kick-along..... No I didn't realise that 400hp = 457hp......please tell me more. How does 400 = 457 ? (ie. is this some new branch of as yet undiscovered mathematics?)

ooohhh noo you didn't !!! OMG OMG ZOMG !!! It's a super-mega-sensible-happy-fun-time POWER vs TORQUE thread...... Driving home to get comfortable.................