simpletool

I agree, no need for low temps thermostats. Look, I never meant that there is some dire problem. Just thought that since we are all driving 10+ year old cars then we should be aware of increasing cooling system corrosion (heater cores for instance). It is also a problem if you don't change coolant. People can disagree with the science if they want, I was just giving some extra info.

Bubba.....seriously.

Sorry I edited my post with additional info - and yes even within operating limits it does.

or chemistry I didn't say everything the coolant touches, just almost everything. And I didn't say that magically over 95° will cause damage and under will not. I said every 10° doubles the wear. It's not like running at the designed temp there is no wear because there is still wear! Running 10° hotter doubles that wear. Running 20° hotter means x 4. (Not that the temperature is evenly distributed in the cooling system though) Anyway....just adding a tid-bit of info for interested parties. new-engine.pdf

+ 1 If the GTR rims can't handle Australian roads then it needs thicker rims.

Simple...he's on the GC not NSW

If you put some 264 cams in and up the redline 800rpm I think you'd pick up around 10% power. then you'd need a full retune, exhaust, intake. Waste of money. Put a LS1 in it.

Anything over 95° is too hot, ever. Maybe EVER was too strong a word. If you get above 95° simply by doing a few 0 -100 sprints then you have a problem and need to address it. The R34 was designed as a slightly higher temp RB25 than the R32/R33 for efficiency. Increasing the coolant temp ~10°C roughly doubles the pitting and deposit formation and therefore results in faster wear on water pump impellers, heater cores, dissimilar metals, etc. People may think high temps haven't damaged anything simply because nothing has broken immediately, but parts in the cooling system and gaskets get damaged.

Your thermostat could be stuck/blocked, replace this first (it's the cheapest and easiest) check-temps again Replace the radiator with something that slides right in. While you are at it replace all the water hoses. yep..ALL of them. Have a beer and never worry again about over heating. Hottest I've seen my car is 88°C when driving in heavy traffic in 40° days(R33) but R34 will get a few degrees warmer. Anything over 95° is too hot, ever.

+1....regardless of what you actually say to them. Same results on the entire map....v similar yes but that would take many many hours and $$$$$. Toshi was good for me. You can't tune all gears up to 7000rpm, and you can't do it on dyno either. In some ways it is not as good as a dyno (harder to hear knock/seat of the pants MBT & no power figure), but in some ways it is better (real world conditions/part throttle). Using both is how they do it for factory.

I think it's a great idea. Also the suspension is lower and a few joints are stronger, steering more direct and less deflection that GTST. Wider body/better looks More interior Alloy bonnet/guards RB26 already And it's different, and it'll feel faster with the same power.

River raid C64

This decision relies HEAVILY on what you call "street". Really fast street I'd say 595RSR or KU36 (cheap!) but don't last long. Take a step back towards a normal street tyre and I'd have to say Sumitomo ZIII (like I always do). But they should be even cheaper than they are! Lower performance than that and I don't bother.

So cruise this Sat ???!!!

I've got 520Nm and the Sports Single Exedy R32 GTR holds fine. Torque is easier to estimate than power. Your centi-litre in capacity x pressure (in absolute bar). 2.5L engine = 250 cL 1 bar boost = 2 bar absolute 250 x 2 = 500Nm (a good estimate for all mildly tuned cars*) *well except the latest Ferrari engines, but it appears they are lying anyway about the production engine torque ratings.

OK so if didn't coincide with the remap then it isn't the cold start tune (or isn't JUST the tune). I thought it was doing it since the remap. No idea then...I've never had/looked into this problem. Sorry.

Almost certainly a cold start timing table issue. The amount of timing retard below 2600rpm is probably a bit too much and it's also running rich when cold (this is normal and gradually gets leaner). There are several stages of warm-up. Sounds like the first stage is a bit too severe in the timing tables - makes it a pain in the winter I bet. Mention this when you get it re-tuned by.............Dr Drift. These cold start tables may require a little trial and error on non-stock ignition maps. You could lower the temp at which normal timing starts and/or you could also smooth out the progression around 2600 - 3000rpm and/or you could reduce the amount of timing retard, etc.

I woke up at 7:30am, went for a stair run at Coogee which brought out an awful hangover (only a 6 pack the night before) feeling. Got home and saw it was raining like crazy so I pulled out and blamed the hangover. That was my txt Hamiltonau. Seemed like a good call

32 drivers think they have the original and therefore the best (cheapest). It's a self defense mechanism and they need to stay in character.

I'm in too for 12noon. White R33 GTST, I'll probably bring the GF too.

Just focus myopically on the SOARER part. Just say "Hey....did you just say....Soarer ??"...."you have a....Soarer...right? I heard that right?" It doesn't have to make sense if you are giving people shit...you just have to act like you believe it and keep at it! (thank you George Costanza )

Hahaha...that's what I would do. It's quite clear from what they wrote that the most significant reason for driving a "classic" DR30 is to get positive attention from others. Kinda sad really that the enjoyment doesn't come from within.....but then they do drive a DR30 The fact is that the 350z, 370z, R32, R33 and R34 (2WD models) have EXTREMELY little of this "new technology" that means they practically drive themselves. Everything can be turned off (except ABS...which my crappy R33 doesn't have anyway). I can't think of a single area of superiority of a DR30 except it is rare and car geeks will stare at you. The comments may have merit when talking about an R35 GTR (which everyone RAVES about), an Evo, an Sti, Golf R or many other modern cars with ESC, EBD, active steering etc. I think by "drive itself" he means a car that doesn't bend with the corners like it's made of plasticine. Old people who's brains can't keep up with modern technology have been using excuses such as these since the invention of the wheel....which practically drove itself.

Sounds good. I hope to be there so I can finally meet some locals.

. A quick (but not entirely unbelievable) time for a 1290kg car.

Also get a brake cylinder stopper (from UAS). You can fit this yourself.