simpletool

165rwkw ! which is around 210kw at the flywheel.

Aahhh that sounds VERY much like a spun bearing. But diagnosis by Youtube sound isn't the most reliable....fingers crossed eh.

I agree with most posters here that: A) That crack doesn't look new (so the tyre fitters didn't do it) B) That crack is a barrel crack and has formed from high loads C) The runflat tyres (factory fitment!) imparted the loads into the wheel and didn't fail themselves, nor did any suspension parts. I see this as a clear cut warranty claim. What is the explanation from Nissan? Looks to me to be a metallurgical issue or wheel unfit for purpose (weight and load considering local conditions). I'd hate to drive an R35 up Parramatta Rd.

+1 I'd go for one of these Jap made items also (and am on my 2nd one) with 230rwkw and more importantly 520Nm ! Stronger clamp rating and importantly stronger drive plate and springs.

Indeed +30 is a good fit. Easy to put 8.5" and 9" + 30 on the back. Even the 350z rims are +30 and +33.

Wondering why he didn't just buy an RB26 crate motor.

or aircon in the seats, a 6th gear and magneto-rheo engine and transmission bushings.

A hole in the drivers seat shaped like that girl nextdoor's mouth.

I can say for sure that this DOES WORK and I can't believe someone else has thought of this too. Don't worry about the haters, they haven't fully understood the pure genius of this plan. I mean, how could it not work? Since you and I are so alike, and obviously smarter than the general person on the street, I will also let you in on another secret. Not only can you get away with stuff by REMOVING sticker but sometimes you can also get away with stuff by ADDING stickers. You may have seen examples of this when people add stickers like Greddy, Garrett or Apexi to the side of their car thereby adding valuable kilowatts. Also you can give your car 4WD and an extra turbo simply by adding a GTR badge to the rear of your GTST (trust me, it works and that why all the GTR guys hate it cause they know they spent all that extra money for nothing. Hell...I'd be pissed to, hahahaa...lol, ROFL, LMAO). Anyway...what I'm saying is I put stickers like "I'm NOT A DRUG DEALER" on the back of my GTST and I've never been pulled over by cops to search for drugs. I've also found "I NEVER SPEED" to work really well cause I know a guy who's mate tells me he was talking to a guy at a party who used to live with this guy who read on the internet that some guys had a friend who's mate's dad once read a story about a segment on Today Tonight that the new's readers brother got his hair cut by the ex-girlfriend who actually did this! Anyway, it works cause cops are as stupid as you. Of course they are, I mean how could they be smarter, it's just not possible. But be careful you actually buy a turbo version first cause it might just be a non-turbo with the sticker put on. I have no idea how to check if it really is a turbo. Maybe someone on here knows ?

No idea. But at a guess I'd use the rim radius of ~220mm and then the offset of 2mm, divide 2/220 and use Tan to give 0.5° I have no idea if this seems reasonable. So check.

Quieter than most and possibly one of THE BEST off the shelf exhaust systems to ever come out for the R33. A stupidly good price if it is in good condition.

From recent history I would say Greens would be the most rational on complex issues. They seem to be the only party that looks at the real facts rather than cpopular knee jerk reactions. That's why I am a green voter recently. As for higher speed limits? I wouldn't hold your breath. Most Australian roads could only handle 110kmh. You could do 120kph on some inter-city roads (Sydney - Newcastle). NSW doesn't seem to have many 120kph capable roads compared to say SE Queensland.

Seems you have decided already. They might be adequate even quite good. Performance depends on the exact tyre model and size also. I guess it comes down to personal opinion how much you want to spend on tyres vs performance. I've stated my minimum purchase requirements based on experience. When I had 260rwhp I think I was on 595SS (255/40/17s) and they worked pretty well if you kept the pressure up at least 36psi.

All reports say Achillies are pretty crappy. A bit more money will get a much better tyre. If you bought the car for looks then buy a shitty tyre and hope it doesn't make the difference between a close miss and a hospital visit. But...I can tell you that a well washed Mazda SP23 would be more impressive to most girls. If you bought the car for driving then you should get decent tyres. These start with something like a Kuhmo KU36 (fast wearing) or Federal 595SS (not exactly great), Bridgestone RE001 (a bit better), Sumitomo ZIII (my personal fav).

Tyres aren't important as they don't get the chicks or looks from jealous guys with big arms (not that you're gay or nothin') Therefore pay as little as possible.

it'll be some kind of silicon grease. A silicon spray can also help between greasing, it'll help liquefy and redistribute the existing grease. Silicon can also be used on rubber. I sprayed my joints a year ago and the squeeking still hasn't returned after 20,000km.

This is terrible to hear about. I trust he was working with diluted HF, ie rust stain remover. Therefore he is still alive. My only recommendation would be not to use HF at all. Most labs I speak to will not have HF (concentrated) because of it's toxicity. Reports of horrific painful deaths are common with a spill of concentrated HF to 2% of the body enough to be fatal.

Oil viscosity shouldn't have much of an effect on this. Thinner oil would just circulate quicker but in the end the result would be the same. The pump and drain effects should roughly cancel each other out. Trying to utilize oil viscosity to solve this is a band-aid fix, at best. You should use the correct viscosity as determined by the operating temperature and desired oil pressure.

The GTX3071 might be interesting if it had a midway point A/R ratio between 0.63 and 0.82 considering we are talking about minor differences here. Or a twin-spool 0.82 T3 Also I would like to note that lag and the rev point where a turbo reaches full boost are not the same thing (although they are usually related). I consider lag as the time it takes to build boost after putting your foot down. This is really only relevant when already into the boost rev range, typically in the mid-range 4000 to 5000rpm (ie. on-off throttle, corner exit or short shift/gear change territory). I would think the GTX3071 would have an advantage here. We will only be able to tell once a few results are in. But if there is less inertia in the wheel then it should work out that way. Essentially "transient response".

Change all the hoses now. There is about 11 down there, it only takes 1 to fail and it could be your head gasket. I posted a diagram of all the hoses under there on these forums before. The diagram is on my external drive at home...sorry.

1. Will the GT3271 be too big for the RB25? I think its A/R .69 rear housing. No, too small to be worth your while and fulfill my response to Q2 below. 2. Also what would be a safe amount of boost to feed a good condition 120k RB25? 1.1bar is a good start with a good tune on a good decent condition RB25. 3. 10/15psi two stage boost controller? And what type of power would I be looking at at these boost levels with this turbo (Other mods only 3" cat back, then FMIC, injectors, fuel pump and Wolf) Two stage boost controller not needed. I run 15psi all the time these days, my GF drives it occasionally to work in Sydney traffic (even my mum has driven it) and they drive like your typical but responsible driver. If you don't want all the power then don't use all the accelerator. Power level on a little bit larger turbo at 1.1 bar is around 260rwkw. I doubt this turbo will hold 1.1bar until max power, if it does it won't make much more than it would at 1bar. I'd guess 230rwkw max - depends on tune and dyno. 4. Also what would I need to change to put this turbo on the car? Water and oil lines - braided or equivalent. Dump pipe and some elbow adapter for inlet (probably all that is needed). Not sure on the flange but it says T3, a proper split pulse manifold would be nice since you have a split pulse housing (is there only one T3 type?) Then again.....you're not going to use that turbo are you? 5. Same manifold? Custom dump? Custom charge piping see above.

I think you'll find the 4.0L falcon engine flows only slightly more than the 2.5L RB25. sure it's a bigger engine but stock it doesn't rev anywhere near as hard and the heads aren't as efficient either. Put those 2 factors together and the 4L would require only a slightly bigger turbo. ie. 3071 for the RB25 vs GT30 (3076) for the 4.0L (would be my pick) or GT30 for the skyline and GT35 for the falcon (for more power but more lag - you'll need a built 4L engine though equivalent to stock XR6 turbo engine or better)

A bit too small for the RB25 also. The compressor map shows it runs out of puff at 40 lb/min and the exhaust side would support that. It would be a nice progressive turbo (only mild turbine trim) but prob max around 230rwkw. So it's a bit lower flow on the compressor side than a GTRS, but a lazier turbine. Guestimate behavior : Slower response but more progressive than a GTRS with lower exhaust temps and ultimately less power as well. Definitely too small for a 4L engine! Crazy boost isn't going to happen with this turbo on a 2.5L, it'll just run out of flow higher in the rev range. You need at least a 3071 (56 trim) to give it much grunt.

I've often thought about welding some additional support to the stock sheet metal link between the strut towers and the firewall. I would think making these 2 sections wider and thicker would help a lot. No that is NOT my strut brace - I wish it was though !!!

Agree that a good set of flare nut spanners is ideal, and I am looking for a set. Pity is that most people don't rate the Sidchrome set as GOOD. A common reported problem is they can flex out (expand) around the nut as the tool isn't strong enough when the nut is tight. This is compounded by the soft (aluminium?) material the nuts are made from. The more expensive flare nut spanners are better as they have a much deeper socket which means more steel material to stop it flexing/expanding. ie. snap-on.