simpletool

I still say supercharge the RB30. Cheapest way to do good skids. But I have no idea how much power is actually required. I figure 300kw, 600Nm and instant response would be enough??

Please clarify what is too big in size? An optimistic man/lesbian would see great potential here. A pessimistic man/lesbian might be worried. Hell we all want to see anyway!

You ran a 13.0 at 105mph so that's normal for a 32 GTR with an exhaust. So just tuning those N1 turbos with an aftermarket ECU would have got you good gains. Since you went all out - then you'll need a tune, especially with those cams. Don't expect anymore overall power from the cams with those turbos, just a shift to higher rev range and less torque.

Thanks. I'm not too sure on the stiffness of the R33. I'm quite suspect on it. The R34 was apparently 100% stiffer or some such, well that was the blurb when they released them. I think I at least need the strut brace at the front. Wondering if an under-engine brace exists?

Can anybody share experiences of both underbody brace and strut tower brace? This is for the R33 GTST. Can anyone recommend a good supplier of these?

OK ECU is obviously the problem. He should use Nistune and a much larger AFM (Ford lightning or custom housing around a Z32 element). But....Nobody has asked why he has a T04z. I mean sure..it's a nice turbo...but do you REALLY need one that big? Can the stock auto even handle 600Nm + ?

Yep smaller tyres give better handling. Wider tyres give better grip. When it comes to tyres then grip and handling are commonly considered to be inversely related, all other things being equal.

Changing to a silicon spray is a LOT better than WD40. RP7 and WD40 are full of organic solvent which is terrible for rubber and plastics. Use silicon spray (or lanolin). And not on the brakes !

I know how annoying being really really ridiculously good-looking can be. It must be even worse for you..lol

Lol...although RB25PWR isn't undercover. Yep, it happens...a lot. I can't remember the last time a local V8 with an exhaust was near me without trying to drag me. P-platers LOVE to race. Police don't seem to bat an eyelid down here though, perhaps my skin isn't olive enough?

Only been pulled over once in Sydney in 9months. Was pulled over on my first day for a drug check. After that....nothing. In Brisbane I got pulled over about once per month. Simply because there is so much more breath testing and "random" car checks. Never got defected though, but got the height measured a few times, told to lift the bonnet, "is this turbo", "is this stock", etc etc. So I think I'm saying that cops in Brisbane will pull you over MUCH more than in Sydney if the past 9 months are anything to go by.

Sounds decent to me. At 16psi max my point on the map is 17° timing at 6400rpm (16° below this) making 310rwhp (smaller turbo). Obviously you've seen naff all dyno graphs then. Boost line would look interesting if you've hardly seen any before. To me it looks fairly common, could be a bit flatter but nothing to write home about.

9" +30 front, but 9.5" plus 30 rear. You can always squeeze a lil more on the rear. I reckon if the 9.5" will clear the suspension points inside then you can run them at +30 on the front too. 235/40 on a 9.5" doesn't look all THAT stretched.

Hamish how close were the 9.5" +25 to the inside front? (ie. the control arm) I assume it was fine with 235/40/18s ? I'm asking as I want to fit 9.5" +27 all round.

A friend bought a F360 in London for something like 50,000 pounds last year. I wouldn't say it is affordable though, the running costs and depreciation if you actually drive it outweigh servicing the debt on the purchase price. As for waiting another few years I think you'd find the upkeep ridiculous. Like running 10 x cheap R32 GTRs.

I think PM-R33 was more talking about BMW 335i/135i or Golf Gti/Golf R, etc. Indeed these do get big power increases (although 50% may be a stretch). Perhaps a BMW might become a tuners car but when I touched on the expense of these I was not really talking about the 2nd hand purchase price rather I was touching on the costs of aftermarket parts and the lack of affordable true performance upgrades (and issues of HEAT!) and repair costs of broken components....plus do they even come with manual locally??? Although with time a bigger market will cause costs to decrease. German cars aren't exactly known for giving away parts though (I should say this goes for the entire German manufactured industry....they love consumable parts!!!). Perhaps it is a case of "build it and they will come" like the USA market, or chicken and the egg. I'll stick with my opinion that it will be Evo (8/9/10), Falcon XR6 Turbo and derivatives and add WRX Sti (these need mods like a hooker needs money) and Golf Gti/R. Essentially anything with a turbo it seems Yes, I know the Gold Gti is German but the manual option pips the BMW auto-only affair for the tuner market. oohh....and for the rich who may dream of owning an "affordable" Lamborghini ....well that seems to be an oxymoron. I'm pretty sure they will have supercharged M3's and a chipped C63 as more affordable tuner cars.

Worn surfaces on the input cluster gears in the gearbox. I have this problem on my car. Replaced the mount with Nismo item gave me much nicer gear change feeling and faster changes BUT didn't fix the vibration issue - at all. I've been told by a couple of gearbox places that it is the surface on the input cluster gears in the gearbox.

If you have stock sway bars then upgrading them will make a big difference when cornering hard. ie. you will lean less and therefore not rub as much.

We dropped my 3" fujitsubo catback and it only made less than 5kw difference on the 280rwkw it normally makes. Yep...but that was a fujitsubo

It looks like it's turning out to be the Evo 8, 9, 10. Powerful RWD are getting VERY thin on the ground after 2001. I wouldn't think a BMW in Australia would become a tuners car. Maybe a flash and exhaust but that's about it. Too expensive and they tend to have all sorts of problems after a few years (when they are finally affordable for the tuner).

G6E Turbo is more cool.

I was considering trying this exact turbo. Could be a cheap way to get near GTRS performance on an RB25. I would expect it would be slightly restricted by the smaller flange but it depends on your power goals. GTRS (2871) don't make all that much power anyway. A full turbine 3071 will give more top end but at the expense of response. Some would say you might as well go 3076.

Yep, it'd be the same as the HKS 2540. That was completely replaced by the GTRS, same peak power with better spool. Anyway, it's meant to be for small engines running big boost with a T25 footprint. This isn't the only problem as you would expect boost still well under 4000rpm with a 2876 on an RB25. You should get 1 bar around 3500rpm in 4th with a 3071, even lower with 2871 (GTRS).

Supercharge the RB30. Simple really. You'll make more torque down low than a worked Cleveland anyway. Rods, pistons and < 1 bar means you'll have something original, responsive and heaps of torque for burnouts! Just make sure you run a big radiator, shroud and keep the stock engine fan plus electric ones. DONE! You can even use am RB25 gearbox and try keeping the stock diff with good oil, large capacity diff housing and cooling fins.

Well they can if they are made really well. My JJR bellmouth fitted the turbo OK but was about 15mm short in length, made it fit by bending the rear exhaust tabs a bit. But it'll probably pull the turbo off the manifold soon enough.....