simpletool

Try bleeding with the engine on and pumping the pedal, might get air out of the system. If this doesn't work try gravity bleeding. I always bleed with 2 bolts (out of 5) on the rotor. Remember to close the bolt when still pushing down on the peddle (2 person job). Or gravity drain to finish.

Turanzas: Safety, comfort and performance, elegantly blended in a tyre that represents the pinnacle of driving luxury. Ideal for the city commuter or dedicated distance driver, Turanza is engineered to deliver an exceptionally smooth and quiet ride in any condition.

Pity I missed it. Need to catch up with some Sydney people since I live here now.

Exhaust. It won't make it much faster, but it will sound nicer. Just spend the time and money making sure you get a nice sounding one. then suspension - you can do it yourself. I can't comment for R34 specific but usually Hypermax III 7 & 5kg/mm is the go for fast street(not the sport or the II version). ie. Rubber upper mounts and the softer rate than most coilovers, plus monotube.(sport has harder rate)

10psi, 11psi, 12psi - whatever. It's something around there. The best value will vary from car to car depending upon the properties of your intake system, FMIC, exhaust and air filter. It all matters how many rpm your turbo is doing and how hot the exhaust gas is. Tuning: Peak power is only 1/3 of the story. You want nice midrange more than peak power. You could improve the tune yourself if you have the nistune software. I'm not saying you should, but I would. Have a look at the last 2 timing columns, compare to the ones just before (the timing dip is extreme = R&R) - change these last 2 columns by extrapolating from the previous columns. (ie. smooth out the dip that occurs in timing after ~9spi. (Note: it is a bigger gap between last and 2nd last columns (80 to 96 load or some such), therefore reduce timing accordingly). The airflow of 96 load roughly translates to ~13 or 14 psi (more than your turbo can reliably flow). The above is my own observations ! It is meant as a guide only, use your own judgement to see if this is correct on your car (sensors can vary). I've heard Yavuz is good, but I never had a chance to try him. He didn't reply to my emails, phone messages or answer the phone and I couldn't be arsed driving there just for an initial chat.

On the track of course

I guess I should wait a couple of weeks and then pay and PM you then? Ranting: I'll go for the pair (in charcoal and post the pics for future reference), my rear mats are sweet.

I was thinking front pair only also.....but same price....I'd go for 5.

I would put a factory airbox on it with a panel filter. So you already have the 4bolt dump pipe? That is handy! Injectors: From my car I can extrapolate that if you want to run 11.5:1 on standard pressure then you'll only get ~250rwkw. If you bump up the pressure a tad and are willing to run to 90% duty then you'll get a bit more, perhaps 280rwkw. So they are borderline, but SHOULD be just enough. They are 450cc btw and allow a lovely idle. Tune at 1.1bar and be happy - get a hand controller to self adjust the part throttle. Then buy tyres in bulk.

Look in the for sale, there was a Fujitsubo exhaust on there going pretty cheap. Quieter and prob flows more than X-force - definitely better quality.

Out of those 4 the Maxxis. But...... Sumitomo Z3, should be about that price. At Jax Quickfit, I'm on my 2nd set (in 18s now). They are WAY better than any tyre you listed above. I've had the Nankang, Federals and older cheap Falkens in that exact size. I think the Nankangs were slightly better than the Federals. Falkens about equal to Federals but stiffer sidewalls.

I have one of these....you can hear it at idle but never once have cops commented on it. Looks mean from the rear too with those twin pipes.

Looking, looking.........

I'd love a RB25 gearbox but unfortunately 90% of used ones are stuffed. It'll be easier to sell if you have some sort of assurance that it is in good condition. ie. I would buy it. Most people don't have enough experience to know it's condition even when looking at the exposed internals (myself included).

You could run less boost at lower gears. This is common on newer cars with turbos. I think the Apexi AVC-R allows this....good luck setting it up. So you'd run approximately 8psi in 1st, 10psi in 2nd, 16psi in 3rd, 4th, 5th.

OK so let's break it down bit by bit: 1."Bridestone Turanzas are shit? Don't think so. They were upper mid range last time I checked." Yes, they are kinda shit. Especially ones with only 30% tread left. Street tyres lose a lot of grip in the first 20% of their life. 2. You are hitting fullboost before redline. Thankfully this is the case. You are meant to hit full boost as EARLY as possible. I'm going to guestimate you hit full boost ~4200rpm. If it is higher than this you need a better matched turbo. Increasing your mid-range power is the key to a fast street car. 3. Loosing traction in 2nd gear is normal for a modified skyline. You need to not use full throttle - that peddle is analogue, you don't have to go ALL the way like using the buttons on an xbox. This is called throttle modulation. 5. Throttle modulation. This is more difficult on small engines with lots of boost. It's hard to modulate the throttle to gain traction for every situation when the feedback from the throttle inputs lags behind due to boost lag. Very hard. Usually it's a preemptive guess for any given situation (ie. cool night, slightly uphill, 3500rpm dialled up) that improves with experience. 5. If you are loosing traction in 3rd with 230rwkw then you simply have a poor suspension setup or tyres. These things decrease traction: a. negative camber, more camber = less straight line traction b. stiff suspension (less grip, more control) c. poor tyres (turanza....seriously???) d. old tyres (the amount of tread only gives an indication, and mostly of wet traction. Age/number of heat cycles/absorbing grease from road are more important) e. rear cradle alignment (see "pineapple rings").

Isn't the difference between 341 and 342 whether the inlet is on the right or left side? As far as running out of petrol? I've never had an issue with my walbro (342). I installed it myself on a empty tank that the needle was at the line (not on the line - level with the empty line) - no issue from very first prime! I've been below the line several times. Filled with 55L and still didn't have problems.

yes...again.

A combination of set figure (offset) and percentage (factor). For a manual I estimate: flywheel(kw) = 20kw + (rwkw x 1.15) Derived from stock figures. It's estimating it takes ~20kw to spin a gearbox at high rpm, plus you lose a percentage (15%) of gains as friction. Seems to work well for a lot of cars, and is a hell of a lot better than straight up 25% loss claims! ie. Stock GTST 140rwkw > 181kw flywheel My current 230rwkw > 285kw flywheel A random 300rwkw > 365kw flywheel 2011 Ford GS 256rwkw > 314kw flywheel, even seems to work for new automatics

Simply not worth it. For the cost of cams installed you could have a nistune with better gains everywhere. Boggles the mind.

PS2 are good. You could probably get them locally for around $1500 For price /performance Sumitomo ZIII, literally half the price (on tirerack) of the PS2 for 95% of the performance. I use these, they are great with gradual loss of traction. You'll get at least 20,000km, I get ~40,000km. Locally I paid $1000 for a set of 4 fitted at Jaks(235/40/18). The Conti "Extreme Contact DW" looks good from tirerack reviews for the price compared to PS2 also. If you are importing and only want ~20,000km you might as well get the Dunlop Direzza D1 star spec.

Is this how to setup the VCT...with VTC Solenoid RPM Recover ~1050rpm, and VTC Solenoid RPM cut ~4500rpm... ? Mine was setup very differently with RPM Recover at 6100rpm and RPM Cut at 4500rpm. Strange....is mine setup wrong? I will give this a seat of the pants trial.

Lowering the front of a skyline with king springs doesn't usually result in an overly low car - although it is as low as you'd want to go. The camber won't be too bad (around 2° ,maybe less), unless the front end is damaged. The biggest issue with tyre wear is more likely to come from poorly aligned toe, which can be adjusted easily, heck it is usually the ONLY thing that tyre shops actually do adjust. Anyway, if you lower with king springs you will require a realignment (mostly to toe). The camber will become more negative but it shouldn't be extreme at all. You won't require camber arms, if you do then something is bent. You might want to go a camber kit (eccentric bushes and a castor kit). But before that I'd get some decent new dampers (shock absorbers). The bush kits are useful because not only do they help with alignment but they replace OLD worn out degraded bushes which cause play in the steering and suspension. The caster on the front is also usually a bit dodgy, you want a split left/right to reduce the drift to the left that happens on highways and major roads due to the camber of the road away from the centre line (sloping road to the left). Anyway, 18 x 8" wheels with 30 to 40, offset will wear more on the inside edges anyway. Get 1 or 2mm toe-in and it'll reduce tyre wear. Get 0mm toe if you want more responsive turn-in. (yes, it makes a difference!). Not very low is a 25 to 35mm drop from standard. Standard height is hard to define now due to sagging springs and compressed rubber bushes plus wheel heights etc, so it's better to measure from centre of wheel to guard. Sydneykid mentioned heights of front = 350mm, rear = 340mm. Obviously you don't have to be exact. FWIW. This gives legal ground clearance with normal diameter wheels and about 10mm from top of rubber to the guard.

Compress the spring as much as you can. Put an open end spanner on the nut then get a shifter and grab the top EXACTLY like V28VX37 has given a pic of above. The wrench can be locked from turning on one of the 3 screws. this will work. BTW, these should come off very easily, they are only to be tightened to 20Nm or some such, not compressed the entire way down the shaft and locked at the end of the thread.

Shockproof heavy could definitely cause faster wear during the first 10mins of driving. Depends on whether you do a lot of short trips or longer high-speed drives without cooling. I would have thought going in-between at normal "lightweight" which they rate as similar to 75w140. Anyway, I had MT-90 in mine which worked well but now have a 50/50 mix of Nulon 80w-90 and 85w-140. FYI, 85w-140 is too thick by itself, whines on start-up in cold weather (tried that for 2 days).