simpletool

Roughly 80° (cruise) to 100° (under stress) is OK. And as said above - depends where it is measured. I would suggest that a higher oil flow (consistent higher revs) will see a higher temp readout even when the oil doing all the work in the block/crank/side of pistons hasn't changed temp. Then pick your viscosity to suit since it varies so much with temperature (depending upon the viscosity index of the oil - higher is always better). Better off with a thicker base oil synthetic (higher cold flow rating - narrower viscosity spread) if you don't get cold temps, especially if racing in summer.

Agree with above. Depending upon your ECU type Nistune MIGHT be able to extract some knock data (even trace it into a map for you). But some (Z32, etc) ECU types have not been sorted yet. Nistune is not free but it's also a long way from expensive.

Agree. The torque won't be 457Nm, but it should be a touch above 400Nm (at the flywheel). Area (depends on gear & shift points) under the curve is EXACTLY where it is at.....this area = energy.

Hi guys, I'm new(ish) to Sydney. Used to do all my mods and servicing myself. Now I need a mechanic for servicing. Recommend me a mechanic please......either Waterloo or near North Ryde (work).

Agree - If your Skyline is lowered more than 50mm it's not much of a road car.

Who knows about this instance, the cops are probably right. It's a traffic fine so guilty until proven innocent (or spend a lot of money going to court). Note: Cops usually dislike traffic cops.

In any case it probably is repeatable.....but you just need to know the right variables. And well.....it's not a ghost in the machine.

Apart from the oil situation - yes it is more viscous - which actually gives you MORE oil pressure. (but oil pressure certainly isn't the best gauge - it is more the result of resistance to flow). Anyway....hmmm....RB20 Nistune very sluggish at cold start but variable depending upon the solar wind (or temperature, or whether your level of guilt or horniness or whatever is you thang) Possible because the timing in the table "warmup timing" is too conservative. Or the enrichment tables of which there are 3 might be too rich or very different between them so when they switch there is a marked difference......After start enrich, cold start enrich, warm start enrich....although not sure how many of these are used with RB20.

Well yes and no. The PCV is mostly there to vent crankcase pressure during the over-run. ie. when you come off the throttle at high revs. The exhaust side into the turbo inlet works well when the turbo is on boost and therefore the area before the turbo inlet is negative pressure compared to ...well pretty much everything. When the throttle is shut then this low pressure area is no longer low pressure. Hence the PCV valve opens when the intake manifold is lower pressure than in the cam covers - which is when the throttle is shut (or partially open). Currently your car is only venting pressure from the cam covers when on boost - this is OK but not ideal. Think of all that time spend under vacuum when the PCV valve would be open.

Did they have any standard cars to compare against? I would have thought a flash tune Evo X with nice exhaust and a good wheel alignment complete with sway bar or a few bushes would have done better than all of them.....and a flat 13. Perhaps someone should have done an E85 tune Evo X. But I must be wrong.

Indeed stock 370cc injectors SHOULD make 300rwhp if you have everything "right" (nice tune, good fuel pump, efficient engine setup). But then again, that's not 250rwkw, it's 224rwkw. Get some bigger injectors. Also, your injectors are getting old now anyway and are probably half full of gunk. Get new ones (or at least cleaned and flow checked S15 445cc ones). Add new o-rings and you will have another 20% head room. I'd suggest 550cc though if you bother. a couple of hundred extra (compared to S15 inj) spent properly now will be worth it in a year or 2

Yeah I know it will say 12.5 on the gauge if it's calibrated with a different fuel and used with another. That is my point exactly. It's the wrong scale. The lambda is still correct but the Air Fuel Ratio isn't correct. I mean people aren't using anywhere near a ratio of 12.5 air to fuel. It's just going to confuse people. If people had a temperature gauge that read kelvin and Fahrenheit and Celsius but the Fahrenheit was calibrated with the wrong scale (ie. Celsius standards by accident because nobody bothers to calibrate with Fahrenheit, hence the wrong offset) would they still give the reading in the wrongly calibrated scale? Or would you just give it in kelvin - since that scale is correct and a universal reference. What people are saying in this thread is the equivalent of saying that 293K equals 20°F, which is doesn't. 293K equals 20°C. And people using the correct calibration or factoring for it will wonder why it doesn't make sense (sure most will work it out). Same thing here, if people search through theses threads in 6 months time (which most SAU members like people to do) and think "ohhh....Status tuning (who honestly by all accounts seems to be an excellent member and tuner with great knowledge of RB and SR engines) says he gets best results at 12.4:1 with E85. Why doesn't mine work like that." IT also makes no sense to injector flow rates. I'm just trying to save confusion and keep SAU a good reference for people. Currently it looks a touch silly to be using the wrong scale and saying that's OK since most people will use the wrong scale anyway.

Yep, I sure did. I was just adding some theory to your results to confirm. Also liked that you used lambda (your AFR would be more like 8.2 though ) Also you mentioned you can add 5 degrees after optimum with no gain - I assume with no ping also. Would you consider this another example of the larger optimal timing window with E85 - a safety feature if you use the lowest advance that gives maximum torque?

All the fuses were fine. Turned out to be the dimmer switch. It has some type of metal strip fuse in it that was blown. I have put in a connecting wire for now, will repair the dimmer switch. The lights are nice and bright now. And the tail lights may well have been working all along.

yeah, I guess that's the only way. although visually is not the best and I don't have a multi-meter. So that is a lot of unplugging/plugging then turning off and on and testing.

From wiki (but significant figures improved): Table: The following table shows the range of air fuel ratios typically used for burning gasoline, E85, and pure ethanol (E100) under an assortment of assumed operating conditions:

I think everyone should stop listing AFR's for E85 in the petrol scale. Please list only Lamba - which for max power would be about 0.85 lambda (AFR = 8.3 for E85!!!, but 12.5 for petrol) The AFR people are quoting is grossly incorrect and will only cause problems with understanding. There should be less need to go richer than 0.85 lamba with E85 as putting a ratio of 8.3 :1 air to E85 in your car will result in better cooling than petrol at 11.0:1 (ie. the reason people run rich is already covered when using E85 since it's runs more fuel to air anyway). To answer the OPs question. You should expect bang on 300rwkw with that setup and fuel change. About 10% increase for changing to E85 running 0.85 lambda with both. Yes, this is coming from a keyboard warrior - not dyno operator. But the chemistry make sense to me. Topic 2. Joeyjoejoe's 555cc injectors must be freaks, or the rail pressure is higher than the injectors rated pressure. With a 5% denser fuel but requiring about 45% more mass, you'd need 38% more volume. So you're 555cc should only provide enough petrol equivalent power as 405cc injectors (ie. maybe 250rwkw but certainly not 320rwkw). But then injectors are a dynamic thing and hard to calculate flow theoretically. 740cc injectors on the other hand should be PLENTY for 320rwkw or so (if your pump can supply it).

Hi, My dash lights and rear lights don't work. Busted on the drive home last night. It's either a fuse or the dimmer. Where is the fuse for this? I have searched. Am looking for TAIL L ? I found this for the boot fuse box. 65A - Main 45A - Blower 30A - 4WD/LSD 30A - IGN SW 15A - FUEL PUMP 20A - HEAD L RH 20A - HEAD L LH 10A - ALT S (Alternator perhaps???????) 10A - TAIL L 20A - HICAS 15A - AUDIO My fuse box does not have this 10A TAIL L position. It is empty. see pic. My fuse box under the bonnet doesn't have TAIL or anything like it on the sticker. The fuse box under the steering column does not have TAIL on it. I have checked and swapped the "METERS - DASH" 10A fuse with no effect. Anybody know which fuse it is?

Yep, it's prob the metal tongue. If you slam the boot - it will trigger much more often.

Ahh....so you're saying you end up adding more fuel than is typically needed to consume enough oxygen to get a 12.0 reading on the O2 sensors. The extra fuel just causes smoke as it's not a fine enough dispersion to burn properly - especially with the sards. Perhaps a higher rail pressure would help him? Or does this not help with Sards? Any experience?

Airleak seems to fit well. The measured airflow would have been much higher than the 9psi boost would suggest. Hence getting well into the rich & retard zone of the standard map.

Wouldn't a low ramp rate bring on a turbo sooner? Stao - I was thinking of a 52T 2871 with a T2 0.86 rear on an adapter. The price of those things is sooo cheap. I'd estimate full boost at 3200rpm and should be enough to make 330rwhp.

Late to come onto boost plus a low power figure - I wouldn't be happy. Adjustable cam gears - check these first! They effect both compression and power curves. Compression a little low on only a couple of cylinders? How low? 130, 140? Compared to the good ones?? Regarding output: Let's do some analysis here. Take 5400rpm (a nice mid-point). At 10psi you are making ~232hp. At 14psi you should make 270hp. That is IF the turbo was just as efficient and the tune was optimized for both airflows. It's not even remotely close. If it made mid-260hp at 5400rpm then that is OK. You are increasing pressure by 16% and getting under 8% return. So you know something isn't right at least at the high boost setting. Either the turbo is too restrictive, the exhaust, intake, leaking intake pipes/intercooler (making the turbo work too hard). Or the tune is not right in AFR or timing. I suspect a mixture of both tune and the car. For a start the higher boost setting gives a later peak power - the 10psi curve drops off earlier. This is not normal - so something isn't right there (look at mixtures and timing). If the tune was right but the turbo was out of flow then it would fall over faster with more flow. IF you had AFRs and exhaust temps we could narrow it down further. But check those cam gears, boost leaks and drop exhaust first. There is more than one thing wrong here, but the tune can't be right until everything else is sorted first.

I always ask for AFR 11.5 when I go to get a tune. It always comes out at 12.0 or higher. No idea why tuners insist on running leaner for a few percent power and end up with higher temps if you ever use it on the track or highway.

Put your head down low about bottom of seat level and facing towards the front of the car. Put one of your arms out and under the dash beside the steering column. Then lift your hand up until it touches something, feel around but be careful. You should soon be able to find a place to put it. When you find a place, repeat the above but with the boost controller in your hand, attached double-sided tape between the controller and whatever place you find. Press firmly for about 10seconds. You're ALMOST done. Take your head and body out from the car floor/bottom of seat. ie. There is nothing to remove next to the steering column, it is all OPEN.