simpletool

Depends on vehicle height. I wouldn't say that 8" +32 or 8.5" +32 flush on the front of a R34 GTT is flush, not even close. It's not horrid, but it's not flush. 18 x 9" +30 is good but even that is not flush. 18 x 9" +30 front (235/40) and 18 x 10" +38 (265/35) rear is nice but still not hella flush. If it's pretty low then 18 x 9.5" +22 would be stance, with 235/40 or 225/40 to tuck them under. AFAIK the R34 has a few mm more guard space than R33. I have R33 and 18 x 9" +25 would fit easy front and rear.

Definitely scope for an R33 to be worth more than $10k. Guys will buy one for $5k in bad condition and tell all their mates how cheap R33s are. Then they'll spend $10k on mods and it won't be as good as yours. AE86 go for around $10k and I know from years and years of driving and modding experience that a good R33 is worth at least double an AE86. My rating below is a base2 log scale.

I need to get off my arse and join you guys for a cruise sometime.

Dibs on alternator - can pick-up. Sent PM.

1. IS350 (pity they are auto only) 2. 335i (I think also all auto) None of the 2-door hatches do it for me. A 4-door Gti or Focus ST would be a practical quick FWD.

Funnily enough I mentioned to GKtech they should probably ship them with small spacers to centre the caliper. Their reply was that it wasn't needed due to the "proper" engineering.

Yeah I know. It's hilarious to follow the manual and use a torque wrench to put bolts on DRY. If you have experience with your tools that's fine and it's how most people do it. But using a torque wrench is by no means amusing, it's sensible if you aren't confident.

Yeah it sucks to get half-way through and realise you forgot something critical. then no wheels to get to supercheap. happens almost every time.

I've got the R32 GTR sports organic SO SO7172 (?) on my RB25. 230rwkw. Been using it for 130,000km with various power levels and a couple of track days.

Depends entirely upon experience and tools. Some people have NO IDEA how tight things should be, they don't do it often enough or use a different length bar. I use a torque wrench now, 105Nm. Most tyre shops do them up too tight with a rattle gun. I've had two steel nuts crack this way (internal drive hex nuts).

My car is just over 200,000km but I've done a lot of preventative stuff over the years. These are the things I would do: 1. normal service (oil, air filter, oil filter, fuel filter) 2. coolant (I use water with low-gylcol "racing" concentrate) 3. thermostat (genuine nissan, not low-temp), and top/bottom radiator hoses if you haven't changed them ever. 4. All belts (timing, water, accessory) 5. Idler bearing, tensioner bearing and retaining bolt. (kit from Kudos) 6. Cam cover gaskets, including screw cushion thingies and half-moons (need automotive silicon - the black stuff) - did mine last week and painted while off. 7. gearbox oil (Redline MT-90) 8. Diff oil (synthetic) 9. Power steering fluid Things I would pay careful attention to: 10. All water hoses (if you haven't ever changed them) - can use mostly generic Repco hoses (except the 4 behind engine for heater core as they are super twisty) - I have a DIY post on here. 11. Low-pressure power steering lines (if never changed), pretty easy job with generic straight hose sizes (have some here I can measure - and also have a DIY post on here somewhere I think) FWIW I have an RB25 Gates racing belt here, used for 20 minutes. You can have for $50 - I'm 5 minutes from you - if you are in Brighton.

Clutches don't have power ratings. They have suggested torque ratings. One rating is static, other is dynamic. ie. static friction vs dynamic friction. In saying that a decent quality organic clutch is probably your best choice. It should handle ~550Nm static (depends on material and pressure plate). So 250rwkw is a rough upper limit. A borderline application also depends HEAVILY on driving style and rear end grip (tyres/suspension). Depends on: Organic material type/quality Pressure plate clamp Other factors: Backing plate thickness/cushioning plate/torsion spring strength Get some popcorn ready >> http://www.exedyusa.com/multimedia/specsheets/ClutchFundamentals.pdf

Best option is R34 helical. Found on later model coupe GTT only R34 manual. Good luck ! Won't need rebuilt, better street diff than clutch-type but not as good for 100% balls-out lifted wheel action on a track.

Depends on tyre size also. ie. 18 x 10" +38 with 265/35/18 would be my choice for rear. If you want some rim poke you can drop the offset to 18-25 or so but you'll have to forgo tyre width down to 235/40 and put silly camber on and lose grip. Fine for a cafe racer. Front I'd try to get something like 18 x 9" +25-30 with 235/40, or even 9.5" +22 if you want some poke (again you'll have to drop tyre to 225 or so and some guard rolling and remove inner liner).

AGAIN for clarity. That is a f**king brave man under that car ! I had an R31 fall on me once, not cool !!!

R32 GTR rotors and R33 GTSt rotors looks quite obviously different. Google image search them. You'd have a tough time putting 32mm rotors onto GTST calipers, but it would be possible if it is PERFECTLY centered and the pads aren't too thick. Remember some pads are slightly thicker than others so there is room to play on the 30mm rotor, the 32mm rotor would take the margin of error out for fitting. Also, why bother? Just get the 30mm rotor. I'm using the ATTKD 324mm GTR rotor, fixed 2-piece curved vane. Fits great and is as light as the 296mm rotor. Using the UAS adapters, no grinding. Just using the DB1199 Toyota Landcruiser pads.

Back to original post. 1. Boost threshold should be VERY similar between fuels. I'd suggest the E85 tune is too lean on ramp up, or there is a manifold/gasket leak, or timing issue. 2. 20psi is almost certainly too much for a GTRS on an RB25 to use at the track. Just be on the look out for heat soak issues and turbo wear, depends on how much WOT you use. 16/17 psi is typically the upper limit. I'm not talking knock issues with dynamic compression since they disappear wtih E85, I'm talking turbine heat issues and compressor overspeed.

Yes, like the OMCG laws. At least those laws are taking resources away from hoons.

I love the route, but can't make it that day. Damn.

I just use this now: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Nulon-Foaming-Air-Intake-Cleaner-150g.aspx?pid=288071#@cross

The police will assert a rule which may or may not be a correct interpretation. If you obey then they're happy. If you complain later, they'll say it was a suggestion. Normally, they are just trying to find an easy way to keep the peace. Sometimes they just get used to people doing what they ask, and if you disagree they'll find one of the many common laws everyone breaks and write you up for that.

^^^ YES, except wider tyres are typically a softer compound. I've had various sizes on the rear and wider does offer more exit grip. however the feel also changes which you may or may not like. If I was to buy rims now they would be: 18 x 9" +25 front , 235/40/18 tyres. 18 x 10" +35 rear , 265/35/18 tyres. Plus, wider rubber does look quite nice. HOWEVER, the rear would need more care in the very wet conditions.

I've got the UAS kit on mine. Takes the front 296mm out to 324mm. I used the ATTKD 324mm curved vane rotors. Was a very noticeable upgrade is stopping power and fade resistance from stock. One issue is you need to use Toyota DB1199 pads to prevent overhang. The next step is the Ksport, D2 kits as above.

Easier to buy the Nulon upper engine cleaner. Cheaper and can buy a single can at supercheap. Same stuff.

Cams will not be cost effective if you are making ~190rwkw at 14psi. No way at all. You will need a retune to take advantage. Since you are going to need a retune anyway then a turbo change is really the only way to make much more power. Save your money, leave stock cams and spend money on injectors, turbo and tune when you have the money.