simpletool

I've got an SAFC II if you want one - sitting on bedroom shelf. I used it when I had similar mods to you - works well and gives other info like voltage levels, knock, etc.

The 7 on your gauge is in the units of 100mm HG. Just like distance can be measured in miles, lightyears or KM - the units matter (a lot). 760mmHg = 1 bar. Therefore your 7 = 700mg Hg which is ~13.5psi. A rough way is to double whatever number it represents on the gauge - then you have psi.

If your old clutch wasn't slipping during it's regular life then the HD clutch will not last longer. If anything it might last a bit shorter, as you'll find yourself slipping it a bit more from take-off (depends on your driving style). Essentially the mechanic was exactly right.

10,000km out of a sports organic clutch? Really, 10,000km ? I've never had less than 40,000km out of a clutch.

Car: '96 GTST, manual, exhaust, apexi turbo (380hp), full exhaust, front mount, 9psi, remap (Toshi), forged 18" wheels, lots of other bits, etc etc. Gas of Choice: BP Ultimate Kilometers Per Tank (Based On Driving Area & Driving Style): Average all from 51L average fill: 380km when driving hard, trips to mt Cootha, etc. 420km in Sydney driving to from work through the city. 430km in Brisbane suburbs and city 460km with a highway trip up the coast and back 570km from 52L driving Sydney to Brisbane. Other Comments: My fuel ecnomy improved a little going from stock turbo to Apexi AX53B70 on the same generic remap. Keeping your car well serviced (plugs, fuel filter, O2 sensor especially) and driving style are by far the most important factor. My driving style is pretty good (regularly smash the GF's fuel economy records in her car - just to give her the old "I can drive better than you and not just faster reminder". But I'm not a total pussy, I will give it a bootful at least once per day. I'm usually one of the slowest in 1st gear off the lights, I look ahead - and not just the car 1 in front, which allows me to only accelerate or decelerate the right amount. IF you drive by looking ahead you won't just save fuel but also tyres, clutch and brakes. (My brake pads last ~60,000km - including 1 track day, my clutch lasts 80,000km, my tyres 40,000km). With a few tips my girlfriend's average Km per tank went steadily up from 380km to 520km over a few months.

R34 SMIC is sold I have the wheels at the Sunshine Coast and the ECU here in Sydney.

Reduced to $600 ! Need these gone by Saturday (2 days time) - or into storage they go. If you are in Sydney I can have them sent to my new address and you can pick-up (Waterloo). You'll have to let me know within 2 days though or they will stay in QLD.

Post on WRX forums ! that is perfect WRX offset/size !!!

the top of the shock is hitting the bump stops. Or if you've cut the bump stops the top of the wheel is hitting the top of the wheel well. Look up my son, look up. In the first pic, see the spring - then inside that is the bump stop. The top of the shock body is hitting up against that. Have you got stock shock absorbers and springs? Or more likely you have lowered springs and stock shock absorbers. Probably could do with some new shock absorbers. and if you've got lowered springs I'd take about 10mm off the bump stops (cut them).

245/45/17 isn't all that big. proper size is 235/45/17 - this would help a bit with the scrubbing. The clicking noise could be anything. Check sway bar links that they aren't loose somewhere. Also check other bolts and play in bushes by try to tilt the wheel up/down and left/right while its up in the air. Obviously it will move left/right but listen for noises.

Those wheels on my R33 Was stock rear ride height then.

I want these gone by next week or they won't be sold - going into storage while I move 1100km away. Offers?

Set of Rays Nismo LMGT2 wheels. Front 17 x 8" +35, rear 17 x 9" +38. A bargain at $700 including tyres ! Some gutter rash on each rim. One front rim has a dent in the outer lip from hitting a stupid jutting out curb (also damaged tyre wall - see pic). This wheel is NOT buckled and is perfectly drivable - it is only the outer lip that is dented. It can be repaired - but the whole set is perfectly drivable as is. I was driving on these for a few months after this dint and there was no wobble or alignment issues. You could have the whole set refurbished and they would still be cheap. Hell it's not a bad price even for the rear pair with tyres. One centre cap is also missing. I want to get rid of these rims as I am moving to Sydney and these will just collect dust in storage at a friends if they are not sold. Perfect as track or street rims for R32, R33, S13, S14 or S15 (also good fit for RX7 S4 & 5). Rear tyres are almost new 255/40 Falken 595-SS, front tyres are mismatched due to puncture 2 years ago. Rear tyres are 90% - 255/40/17 Falken 595-SS Front tyres ~40% - mismatched. All 4 wheels Rear #1 Rear #2 Front dented Close-up of dent Front #2 Wheels are located in Brisbane - pick-up is MUCH prefered. Can deliver to Sydney at beginning of April.

Asking "why" is the start of a long journey my grasshopper.

You'll notice coil packs breaking down by a sharp stutter in the power delivery - usually higher in the rev range ~4500-5000rpm. If this isn't occurring I would think the coilpacks are fine. 154rwkw for 10psi is pretty low , you should expect at least 175rwkw - but each dyno is different and depends on values put in. Is the torque & power curve fairly linear/expected shape? Before getting a retune make sure everything is in good condition. Change fuel filter, spark plugs (typical copper ones) and check for boost leaks.

Actually if it has EXACTLY the same mods and in good condition then it will respond the same. But mods are rarely EXACTLY the same.

OK, might have to drop the price on the wheels and tyres. Any offers?

Ok sweet thanks for the replies. I've also considered leaving it registered in QLD address - I wonder if that is practical..... I'll be down end of March. Still looking for a place to rent. It looks fairly standard - nothing too crazy. But FMIC with a bit taken of of reco bar might mean trouble over the pits.

Intercooler and turbo both sold (pending payment).

I'm open to offers for the wheels and turbo.

Mine just got done today it's loud as at idle. Pretty pissed off right now. Can be heard easily in the cabin even in traffic - only below 900rpm does it make the noise. Above that it's quiet. Done at a workshop that deals with a lot of RBs. Considering just getting a Nissan belt put on instead even though I'll then have wasted my money on this belt. It's way too loud to drive at night when quiet - definitely I do not recommend Gates racing belt. Should have gone genuine but didn't know about this issue until after I bought it.

Mine just got done it's loud as at idle. Can be heard easily in the cabin even in traffic - only below 900rpm does it make the noise. Above that it's quiet. Done at a workshop that deals with a lot of RBs. Considering just getting a Nissan belt put on instead even though I'll then have wasted my money on this belt. It's way too loud to drive at night when quiet - definitely I do not recommend Gates racing belt. Should have gone genuine but didn't know about this issue until after I bought it.

Mine just got done it's loud as at idle. Can be heard easily in the cabin even in traffic - only below 900rpm does it make the noise. Above that it's quiet. Done at a workshop that deals with a lot of RBs. Considering just getting a Nissan belt put on instead even though I'll then have wasted my money on this belt. It's way too loud to drive at night when quiet - definitely I do not recommend Gates racing belt. Should have gone genuine but didn't know about this issue until after I bought it.

Mine just got done it's loud as at idle. Can be heard easily in the cabin even in traffic - only below 900rpm does it make the noise. Above that it's quiet. Done at a workshop that deals with a lot of RBs. Considering just getting a Nissan belt put on instead even though I'll then have wasted my money on this belt. It's way too loud to drive at night when quiet - definately I do not recommend Gates racing belt. Should have gone genuine but didn't know about this issue until after I bought it.

Hi all, I'm moving from Brisbane to Sydney soonish and I think some car stuff just needs to find a new home. R34 SMIC $100 ( I think this was better than my HDi FMIC due to better response when I had stock turbo, definitely an upgrade from R33 SMIC) R33 SMIC FREE R33 series 1 (I think) ECU $80 (I think it's series 1 but it worked fine on my series 2 R33 for more than a year) Stock R33 turbo $150 (minimal shaft play, no problems replaced with larger Apexi turbo, 141,000km on motor, 10psi boost for previous 2 years, includes stock lines and actuator) all of this turbine compressor looks schmick. Ray LMGT2 wheels 17 x8 +35, 17 x 9 +38. $750 with tyres Rear tyres 90%, Federal 595SS 255/40/17 Front tyres 40% mixed brand. (All wheels have some gutter rash, 1 is missing a centre cap thanks to QR, one front wheel has a noticeable dent in outer lip - wheel functions perfectly fine, not out of round , I drove like this for ~10,000km and no vibration issues, quoted $200 to fix and machine lip - which I am not going to bother doing!. Alternatively could put new outer lips on both fronts and make 8.5" +29 - thought about doing all 4 wheels and putting slicks on) Yes the wheels are dirty, yes they can be cleaned up more. dented front dent close-up other front rear 1 rear 2 Much prefer pick-up at West End, Brisbane. Pricing seems fair to me however reasonable offers will be considered. Extreme low-ballers both annoy me yet somehow make me laugh. I am not desperate as my work is paying for all my stuff to be shipped with me to Sydney.