simpletool

How are the grade 10.9 bolts going? You haven't found them coming loose at that tension? or do you put some loctite on them? Also so I can source the bolt before disassembly, is the M10 bolt a 1.5mm pitch?

Hi Guys, I am wondering how strict the police and road authority is in Sydney and if I can register the car in Sydney? Essentially are the police going to make my life a living hell? I've had my R33 GTST for about 3 years here in Brisbane and no fines from police regarding mods. I am likely going to move to Sydney (Head Office in North Ryde) in the next few months and want to take my car with me. It looks fairly standard but has a few mods including: 1. FMIC (had to cut a touch of the reco bar to fit) 2. APEXI turbo (still has stock heat shield but can tell from some braided lines and apexi cast into elbow) 3. Nistune on Z32 ECU Other mods I have done in a way that isn't illegal and doesn't attract attention: Exhaust is fairly quiet (2 x 2.5inch with dual mufflers) Suspension is just over legal height (SydneyKid spec) 18" 350z wheels I have no stickers or bright coloured paint. So any thoughts?

I feel for ya, but unfortunately it's guilty until proven innocent for traffic fines. Going to court can be balanced or it can be banging your head against a wall - depends on judge/day/weather conditions/size of your boobs.

Ahh...not you can't use DOT5. But you can use DOT 4 and DOT5.1 You're seals will not handle DOT5.

Stretched tyres and rims outside of guards is soooo last year darling.

Set your rear bar a bit harder to get rid of understeer. Get your toe set at 0mm front and rear (much more responsive now). I currently have same suspension but Sumitomo Z3 (ZIII) - the Z2 are all-round not as good as Z3 and they understeer (I had them on for one day). My sway bars are set as front medium/hard. Rear medium/soft. No understeer unless we are talking about <50km/h hard corner.

Back from the dead to report same problem - I took the dust boots off as they were completely useless. Both front and rear are a poor fit and neither seal nor slide easily over the shock body. I am at correct height 345mm front 340mm rear. The proper Bilstein covers or ones that can be zip-tied to bottom and top would be much much better.

8kg front is very very firm - well essentially plain hard. I've driven an GTST with 8/6 and compared to my king spring/Bilstein/whiteline sway-bar combo it was worse in every respect (except maybe a smooth track or drifting). Hopefully you can get something softer.

Sounds like all the symptoms of hard pads. They wear your rotors faster and cause a squeal from the pad back rubbing against the caliper - especially on light pedal effort. You can cure the noise by taking the pads out, cleaning the back of the pads and shims. Putting a thin layer of COPPER grease on the BACK-ONLY of pads and shims then put back in. Be careful not to get grease on rotor or front of pads - at all. (ie. do not think it is by any means acceptable to allow grease onto front of pad and then wipe off) I have this on my car with DBA4000 rotors and RB74 pads (hard) and they used to squeal all the time - now very little issues. IMO RB74 pads are too hard for fast street, I will be changing to Bendix ultimates. If your rotors are too thin you might want to purchase the RDA ones from group buys.

Mine is only a bit slower on hot days - no issues with over temp. Running china-spec larger radiator, HDi FMIC, standard airbox with K&N filter. Running 10psi on stock turbo - seems dandy. I'm even getting frosted air out of the AC on humid days.

Even if the BOV is designed to leak, it's a NOT going to affect idle as the "leak" is not escaping outside of the air measured by the AFM.

Some people who must be related to Ian Thorpe change the wiring to give it a "fully-sik" look at me I'm different look. Therefore could be a deliberate wiring issue - I've seen this on 2 Skylines around Brisbane , both driven my mummies boys with clothing far too large for their weedy bodies.

Does this guy actually have the right to publish this in English? If he is charging he had better have got the rights from Nissan.

Radiator cap or radiator sealing issues (do you have after-market radiator?) Does the cap SEAL against the lip inside the radiator? Check for indent in the inner radiator seal - the inner one that is sprung. (And yes, I read every word of your post). Related issues - when hot does the overflow bottle fill-up more? If not there must be a large amount of air in your system. Take off the vertical screw that is between the PCV valve and plenum (it is at a high point). Take off the radiator cap - turn on your engine. Pour water into radiator - etc etc. Rev engine a little with throttle - bubble should come out either radiator or screw (out screw back in a few turns and repeat to get smaller bubbles out). This process is better if car is SLIGHTLY pointing uphill.

As above. I'm in Brisbane, have cash. Would love a gearbox in decent condition.

Suggested lifetime of hoses is <10yrs........they are definitely not in good condition if they've been used for more than that.

I would imagine that if you search you will find my fairly detailed reply about me doing EXACTLY this about 1 month ago - also linked to NISSAN diagrams with all hoses under the plenum with part numbers. And description of what generic hoses I used. Generic hose will fit most, but you will need the heater hoses both in and out from Nissan ~$30 each + you will also need a 120° bend of I think 3/8" - this can be cut from a multi-fit at your local Repco (or genuine). The rest is generic - you might want to get the 4-way metal joiner new also, likely to be farked.

In regards to fuel pump flow....depends on voltage AND boost also. The more boost you run the more fuel pressure you require the lower the fuel flow rate. see www.stealth316.com/images/flowtest-walbro.gif for example - note the 13.5V line for Walbro GSS-341 HP...is this the model you have. ~230L/hr at 20psi (+43psi base). Not high pressure model flows ~220l/h at 13.5V .........BUT 185 l/h at 12.0V On voltage don't R32 require the wiring and R33 not so much due to higher voltage from R33 reaching the pump? That's what I read on the rewiring thread of R32.

The highflow turbo may or may not make 260rwkw - judging by your current boost and power it will require ~20psi (which shows the turbo is perhaps too small to make 260rwkw). Question regarding Walbro: On the Walbro , I'm not expert at all, but are the Walbro flow problems related to voltage or the pump itself? I've seen graphs that show the Walbro is much more sensitive to voltage than other pumps. Not good at 12V, good at 13V, better at 13.5V + I have a Walbro but only at 190rwkw - looking at 230rwkw myself soon.

If it's not the cap then it is likely the tube running form radiator overflow or quite possibly the nipple on the radiator. My thoughts are that the force of fluid coming out of the radiator when hot is high but the force under vacuum for refilling when cold is low. The hole might have corroded or the hose is partially blocked. The hole in my aluminium radiator was blocked from a little bit of crap, I just scraped it out with a drill bit.

Yeah, thanks, I know what you mean. And I will (in all likleyhood) be getting nistune after installing the turbo but.... 1. But I will still be installing the turbo and driving around to check install is OK, and turbo is OK before driving 100km to get a tune. 2. The question was also to find a response to whether a larger turbo requires less timing or more timing for similar flow. Out of interest / theory.

I've got a reflashed ECU on my RB25DET that is running a stock turbo at about 10psi quite well, but it will ping a little at more boost. If I put on an Apexi AX53B70 and run 10psi (hopefully a touch less) should it ping? My thoughts are that it might reduce knock due to the larger exhaust housing and more efficient turbo at that flow boost level (allow increased timing). On the counter side is the fact that it is likely to make a chunk more torque so timing will need to be retarded. Background: Other mods are full exhaust, fuel pump, HDi intercooler, coil packs, EBC, big radiator, etc. I currently have an AX53B70 (P25 housing). I was going to put on the Apexi turbo these holidays when I do a big service (timing belt, etc). Then depending upon how it drives was going to get an ECU and put in injectors early next year. I just don't want to put on the turbo and find it pings it's tits off and is virtually undrivable at any boost. (I think 10psi will be about the minimum adjustment for the wastegate/diaphragm) Any input from tuners who have an idea about timing vs turbo size?

Bugger, something else to worry about. Have all the bits and was going to do this belt change myself with original bolt......hmmmmmm.

So for Nistune on R33 RB25DET there is 3 options? 1. Use Z32 ECU (which has some issues - not really clear what they are, nobody seems to have answered that) 2. Use RB20 ECU which has no variable cam timing - which negatively affects mid-range. 3. Get a reflash Or I could get an old Power FC for a million dollars. Anybody have details on which might be best and why?

Just a quick note that the 4 heater hoses are probably best to get genuine form Nissan due to the very tight space and bends required. In a temp job you could by-pass the core if required. The rest can be generic hoses - you will need one 120degree or at least 90 degree formed 19mm hose which is short (for part 14056N - above diagram). The rest are 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4inch generic hose like Gates.