simpletool

I put in the Nulon smooth shift 75w-90 with just under a 1L of the 85w-140 that was in the gearbox for a few days. Shift is perfect - no synchro crunches so far. But I'm not so sure it has really solved the synchro problem - I'm waiting for it to appear. Anyway, if it does turn out to be a problem I am most likely going to get a brand new gearbox from just jap.

Well the synchro type crunch has gone but the oil is too thick. It has a noticeable but not too loud whine occcasionally for the first few mins. I'm sure it's due to the high viscosity near cold. I think the crunch/grind I got when I had MT-90 in it was because it was too thin at high temps. It only happened once warm - after at least 30mins of driving. I'm not sure of a typical gearbox temp for town driving (no traffic) after 40mins but I'll guess 60 Celsius. MT-90 is rated as Cst 90 @40C and 15@100C. And once it's used this drops a bit. So I think the oil was too thin for my worn gearbox. So I've done a little excel spreadsheet which is an APPROXIMATION - should be attached. I have made some assumptions about required viscosity and coloured in squares that are too thin(hot) or too thick (warm). As you can see the viscosity of the 85w-140 gets REALLY thick as the temp drops below 40 degrees - I guess this makes the whine due to lack of oil flow. I really don't need it this thick. The oil prevents shifting only at very cold - I can't get 2nd gear easily for about 1 minutes on a winters morning so thick viscosity causes a whine before it affects my ability to shift. The whine is there for another 2 or 3 minutes from cold. I just want it a bit thicker than 75w-90 so it resists the assumed problem of used MT90 being too thin at around 60 celsius (the actual temp is somewhat irrelevant in this case). So the Redline 75w-140NS looks good (at an expensive price if it doens't solve the problem), but since this might not be the solution I'm going to blend 1L of Nulon 85w-140 with 3L of Nulon smooth shift 75w-90 to make it a touch thicker. See excel sheet. We'll see how this goes.

Put the 85w-140 Nulon gearbox oil in today. First few changes from cold are a bit notchy but nothing too bad at all. Then the shift feels as smooth as the Redline MT-90 I had in it for the past 60,000km. The gearbox is definately a bit quieter both at idle and running. The vibration at 1700 to 2000 is reduced and is over more narrow rev range now too. The shift feel is really good, not notchy at all, after a minutes drive or so. Syncho noise has not appeared at all, and there is no grind or clunck when changing. It feels really good actually - apart from a slight whine noise when I first started it tonight. Tonight on the 2nd drive it did make a bit of a strange whine noise a couple of times for several seconds during the first 2 minutes of driving - the gearbox oil would have been cold on a cold night like tonight. I've done about 30km in it so far over 2 drives. We'll see how it goes over the weekend. Certainly the oil might be a touch too thick to protect the gears during the first few minutes so I'll have to put no load on it for the warm-up but I'm usually very careful for the first 2 or 3 minutes anyway.

Then again I've very rarely had a car touched by any mechanic and not had at least some part of the experience be an issue. Last month got new rack ends , a few weeks later the boot falls off, obviously not put on properly.

Service is at least half of any such businesses "product". Simple. If they don't have the training capacity or HR tools to employ quality people then the business is a poor one. If they can't ensure a remotely similar level of service between their stores then why would I assume their product quality would be any better? As yet I know nothing of the quality of their parts.

Sparco33. You can always bend the actuator arm to effectively shorten it. A bit ghetto, but it should work. Putting in an exhaust restrictor may indeed work, but it's treating a symptom that the small exhaust housing combined with small wastegate can't flow enough efficiently.

Fullboost looks to be reached around 90kph. That would be about 3500rpm in 4th I think. This does not tell you all that much about lag. As a turbo that boosts later in the rev range does not always have more lag, and vice-versa. I doubt a change to 0.63 A/R would reach full boost more than 200rpm higher, and it wouldn't have much more lag considering the 0.48 has a big wheel in it that isn't really suited to it.

Pretty sure that $5500 is a record to my eyes for 2nd hand rims.

In the name of science I am putting Nulon 85w-140 gearbox oil in my car to see if the thicker oil makes a difference to the vibration and the (very new) crunches in 2nd and 3rd. At least I'll be able to report if indeed it still changes gears at all - I'll keep you all posted on this. I am trying this as the crunching only happens when the gearbox is warm and therefore the viscosity is lower. Therefore I am starting with a more viscous fluid and hopefully it might cure some rattle/vibration along the way due to higher film strength. But who knows unless you try. Currently it has Redline MT90 in it for the past 60,000km it has worked quite well.

My logic says next to zero chance of diff/uni-joint beging the issue. Mine is clearly engine RPM dependent - which the uni joint and diff do not see.

Sounds like we've all got the same issue. I get heavy vibration at 1500 to 1800rpm in ALL gears. But more monticable in 1st, 2nd, 3rd I guess due to lower gear ratio. 2 x gearbox specialists on hearing my observations say it's the input cluster or some such thing - ie too much lash in the gears. At idle is is fairly quiet so they don't think it is bearing related. Anyway - now I get crunching in 2nd and 3rd when shifting normally - but it is intemittant. I think it's time for a new gearbox - are the one from Just Jap actually NEW ?

I think it's an EXEDY heavy duty organic - definitely an organic face anyway. It's time to get a new clutch now, I'll get the gearbox looked at when I do.

MY thinking (which might be wrong) is that if it happens at same rpm in different gears then it must be gearbox related and on or before the input shaft - since output shaft is at road speed and input shaft is at engine speed. It has gotten slowly worse in my gearbox. 2 x gearbox places say it's something to do with my input gears/shaft, but probably not bearings.

I much prefer my 350z FORGED track 18"s (and of course they were cheaper - in mint/perfect condition).

From my 2 experience with different Pedders stores in Brisbane, I would have to say "Hell no, run away or wait for Fulcrum at the very least". Last time I went to Pedders they stole/lost my fuse box lid and denied it was ever there. Plus they replaced bit that might have been broken but didn't fix the bush that was totally stuffed.

Sounds exactly like shims vibrating against back of pads and calipers. You can grease with copper grease - light coating, worked a charm on mine. Had DB4000(no slots) with RB74 - squealled exactly as described. Remove brakes - clean back of pads and shims - coat with copper (or lithium??) grease. DO NOT GET ANY ON THE ROTOR OR FRONT OF PADS. (obviously) I tried brake goo and spray and cleaning rotors - did nothing. Put the copper grease on and whisper quiet. I now have Ultimates on the rear and they came with the material on back of pad to reduce squeal. Anyway - we'll see when I go to ultimates on the front if it happens again. Been quiet for around 30,000km now, nearing the end of the RB74 fronts.

HKS GTRS kits are worth considering now the Aus/Yen is decent. Many highflows use a similar (or the same) core as the GTRS - but none will get results quite as good due to housing constraints. Rated at 290kw (flywheel) - so around 230rwkw at just under 1bar. Plus a GTRS kits is 100% new parts and you get to keep your old turbo. I'm looking into turbo replacements as well, but considering the total all up cost would be $4800 it's hard to justify. 480cc injectors ~ $450 Z32 AFM ~ $250 Power FC ~ 1200 HKS GTRS ~ $2900 Total = $4800.

If you measured from outside to outside then take off 0.5". They sound like 8.5" then to me.

You in the market for doing seals on brake calipers while you machine the rotors? Maybe it's not your thing but I thought I'd ask. I hate brake shops, always trying to rip a guy off !!!

R33 with atmos BOV says it all.

I often hear people say the R32 is more rigid but does anyone actually have any proof of this? It seems counter intuitive to the improved (strengthened) R33 locations of the suspension mount points both front and rear. As for being lighter there isn't really that much in it, I read R32 1310kg vs R33 1390kg. That's 6% more weight with 25% more engine displacement and bigger brakes, gearbox, steering arms, etc etc. R33 would also have better weight distribution as the engine weight is not much more for R33 than R32, the rest of the weight must be behind the front axle. As for looks I find the R33 better, the R32 GTS looks like poo and a total drift wannabe car. Often seem to be driven by guys who also own a poverty S13. R33 currently has a poor rep due simply to their popularity and the number of slow ones around due to standard ECU - I'm one of them !

The hooning laws of 3rd offense = car confiscation doesn't meet the criteria of the punishment fitting the crime. It is therefore not a sensible law - I'd be better off stealing. If these laws are enforced they will greatly increase retaliation to police and the government. Not to mention creating a criminal, who may decide to then increase their criminal activity, out of a hoon. The people creating and advocating these laws seemed to consider this behavior as "part of life" when they were young yet the fatality rate was several times higher. the double standard baffles the mind.

Auto doesn't work too well, it's very conservative and slow boost. Use manual control - my gain is 5, set is 62, boost is 10.5psi on stock turbo. You might want to use gain 6 to 8(if you have larger turbo), start at set = 10 and go up from there watching the boost. Changing gain increases the boost with constant set value so be careful. Set warning to 20psi and level (?) to 5 - this means if it hits 20psi boost will be reduced by 5psi. Remember you can also use OFF which is a nice feature of these units. Play around with these figures.

Jetpilot1986: to clarify - down that list is up in price/performance ! Bilsteins for R33 ~1100 a set (+springs) vs DMA coilovers ~3300 (50mm). I have bilsteins and they impress all who enter. you might actually cop some flack from your fully sick mates with coilovers. But when their rock hard car with 40rwkw more and 100kg less goes 3 seconds slower a lap with better tyres you've really got to wonder

Quote on website for those cross drilled lines is awesome: "by Michael Ham Date Added: 01/17/2006 Man, do these ever work! I installed them on my Nissan Maxima and that sucker actually seemed to pick up speed after I applied the brakes as I neared the intersection. Definitely improves speed and acceleration! Rating: [5 of 5 Stars]" Wow.....now if only I could get me some of those lines that make you accelerate when you push the brake pedal. They think of everything these days.