simpletool

Pity you can't buy those tyres anywhere, only the lower load rated and speed rated tyres at local shops, with what the Federal website indicates is a different tread wear as well. (Well in 17's anyway)

Nice car, had a AE86 as my first car, put a 4AGE and suspension in it, 15 x 7" rims, had it for 6 years. Won't post what I sold if for in 2002.

Is that a stock radiator? Might want to think about getting a larger one, it's handy preventative stuff for Australia. Looks neat, how about a dyno sheet?

Has it been rebuilt recently with receipts from workshop and you have pics in pieces and can confirm good teeth on all gears and new bearings and good condition synchros?

1. So it makes a squeeling noise on boost when the stock BOV is connected properly. 2. It doesn't make this noise when the stock BOV is blocked? (please explain how you blocked the BOV) Doesn't sound like turbo, sounds like BOV leak issue. But I'm not speaking from experience.

And 100 posts.

UPDATE: Latest news is many of the people had R32 and got work done by Dr. Drift already. Two of us look like we will be getting remaps via post. I have a before dyno already - it's shocking ! and will give a little write up of the whole process when done. then we'll have a little more of something to go on. In the mean time I need to get myself a series 2 ECU, as mine appears to be from a series 1 powering a series 2 engine.

You have PM

Hi everyone, I'm looking at getting a reflash for my R33 GTST series 2 (09/96 build). I have been informed that my ECU model number is unusual and likely from a series 1. The number on the ECU is MEC-R521-A1-4401, and it is the same written on the chip inside. The ECU does not seem to be fiddled with at all from a soldering perspective. The engine from what I can tell is a series 2 (as is the whole car (ie. dash, lights, bonnet, rear), I even put in Splitfires that are only suitable for Series 2 and they work fine. Other details are is that it doesn't have the igniter module at the rear of the rocker cover. It also has 2 plugs to the TPS (I was told they have 1 on the series 1). I wanted to get a reflash as my dyno run showed very rich fuel (under 10:1 and retard of ignition after 4200 rpm on 11psi (I've reset my boost controller to give 10psi), the car does however run fine and has run fine for 2 years now. No idle hunting, no exhaust popping, etc etc. I have R34 SMIC, turbo back exhaust, std BOV, std turbo, walbro pump. Can anyone tell me they have a series 2 with a ECU with number MEC-R521 ??? I am told it should be R620 or R720. Or any other advice (Waits for get a Power FC comments ) Thanks.

High exhaust temp also hurts turbos. So leaner a/F ratios or excessively retarded ignition would cause turbo failure, more so at high boost. There's more than one way to kill yourself and more than one way to kill a turbo. Combinations just increase the risk. Running 14psi and a lean A/F ratio is like being a basejumper who loves to carry knives in his parachute bag. Sure someone always knows somebody who has done it since he was a kid, but we are all waiting to see the "freak accident" on Today Tonight.

"stock injectors, stock ecu, z32 afm, an un-tuned afc neo " Z32 AFM with stock computer ???? I'm no tuner or expert but to me I can't see how this is supposed to work other than giving lean AF ratios.

OK, I got a dyno run today and my Air/Fuels are very rich, so I'm going to PM those who expressed interest in the remaps. I need to know exactly what type of car you have and what mods. If this doesn't work out I am going to get a remap via post like GTST, but I'd rather pay a little more and get it customised for my car live.

You sure it's the front brakes? Could be the rear. 1. Use the shims (there should be 2 of them on front pads) 2. Use anti-squeal or use copper-grease between the shims and the piston (MAKE SURE YOU DON'T GET ANY BETWEEN THE PADS AND DISCS)

So do they bolt up to the clutch/flywheel and also the driveshaft? Are they the same length?

Hi guys/gals/importers/keyboard-warriors, So does anyone have any information about the current model Skyline coupe. Is it going to be imported here or has anyone heard about Nissan apparently bringing it in under Infinity? I'd really like one of the current models - just with a grill change.

7:30pm, next Wednesday, Pig n whistle. Count me in please, about time I met fellow skyline drivers.

From memory I think that King springs are progressive and Whiteline linear. Whiteline are also cold-wound so have less sag effect over time. I think Sydneykid prefers linear springs at least in the front of the Skyline for better steering feel or something like that. If you are just running Low kinds with bilsteins and it is what 340mm centre to guard then it shouldn't be very harsh. but that is a personal view. Depends on tyre sidewall and pressure too.

700mmHg is NOT 9psi. It IS 13.5psi. Your factory guage was likely not made to be super accurate or entirely linear in response. The factory guage is a guide and should not be used to accurately monitor boost. For instance my zero (atmosphere) is about 2mm below the zero on my guage, and it can vary a little in it's response day to day.

Sometimes the stereotype gets to me, sometimes I find it funny, mostly I find it highlights the people who don't form their own opinions. I might have been lucky but only 1 ticket in 30 months of this Skyline ownership (for 72 in 60 zone) and I've gotten a touch of oversteer here and there most days. If you don't drive with at least a bit of spirit in you sometimes then you believe the hype as much as the next person - just don't do it in the wrong places, and all in moderation. Just check out how the police drive 90% sensible 10% skids/burnouts, let them lead by example. As for today-tonight don't worry it won't be on too much longer. One last topic - Australians generally drive too cautiously and without consideration to others or the conditions. Try to do better than this pretty please.

Hi Toshi, Since the Brisbane trip is a bit complicated with needing to do cars during the work week and you needing to fly up here. What other options do we have? ie. retune by mail? I need some sort of retune as my car pings if I apply throttle hard between 3500 and 4500 rpm. Running 10 psi, full exhaust, R34 intercooler, filter and walbro pump.

Just to update and close this topic. I've driven it about 5 hours drive time since setting the maps back to the original one and no stalling issues since. It must have been a setting in the SAFC that changed when I changed the maps. All good now.

Yeah well to update.... it MIGHT be my SAFC, as I changed the setting to run the 2nd map (one I've never tuned - it's just flat) and then it started this stalling that night. 2 days ago I changed back to the 1st map and it hasn't done it in 1.5 hours worth of driving. If it doesn't happen again I can assume this is the problem. But thanks for posting guys. I've had vacuum leaks before (on a few cars) doesn't seem anything like that, and if I pull the AFM out completely the car still idles ok, just does a rev then quick idle hunt, then idles fine. I can't get my head around how a map change in SAFC would cause the car to just cut out like that though, so I'm dubious as to whether this is the problem.

Hi all, OK on the way home from the airport the strangest thing happened and I just want to make sure I'm not crazy. I was driving home (went over the train tracks) and the car just spluttered a bit then died (took about 5 seconds). (I know I know, must be some loose wiring somewhere I guess) But I pulled over, turned the car off then on, and it started fine and I drove another 30mins home. So my question is: If the car ignition was switched on, and power somehow was cut for a second or two , surely the car should just restart from the rolling, effectively jump starting, but it didn't. Instead I had to turn it off and on then it worked fine. This seems very weird to me and makes me think of some ECU problem. Car was running poorly on more than ~80% throttle the other day, and I tuned the boost back from 10psi to 8psi seems to be fine now - until this. Hasn't been a problem for the past 2 years apart from usual common issues of coil packs (got splitfires), and radiator (now a big one). This one has me a bit worried. If it happens again I'm going to go hunting. Note: I have a SAFC2 but wiring seems sound.

I can't see many kids posts previously - yours seems the exception. ie. nice spelling. 1. Where you got 4 degrees per extra psi, who knows. (considering he's changed turbos, AFR and ignition curves I don't think that 4 degrees/psi number is worth much) 2. 36 degrees extra heat internally over stock = stuff all, nowhere near melting pistons. (apart from the fact that is a crazy totally out of nowhere "hands in the air" put it out of a hat kinda figure - see above) 3. 16psi on 9:1 compression is not exactly crazy boost, and you should be making more than 225rwkw from a 2835 on that boost. (Assuming you made that out of a 2530 on the same dyno) Your print out says 13.5psi though, and that is bang on what you would expect power wise......... your tuner says you can't add more boost though or timing. I feel for ya.

OK now that you've got injectors that you need if you want more than 225rwkw: My thoughts are you should: Firstly - spark plug temp ratings? You sure you don't have the wrong spark plugs in it? You should be running one step colder than stock, can someone confirm that is 7 in NGK or is is 6? (anyway, higher number = colder plug) you want the higher number. Do a compression check - surely a NA motor has a higher value than the turbo. I think turbo is 150 psi each cylinder. Check it when you check the spark plugs. These 2 things above should take you about 20 mins to do. If it is an NA motor running a decent sized turbo and tune and supporting mods I'm going to be a bit dissappointed if it only makes 225rwkw - but I have no experience on that topic. lastly......I feel for ya.