simpletool

I installed Walbro, just had a good look at how std pump sat on bracket and then put Walbro in same place (slightly slower on bracket) using the rubber/foam sleeve it came with and 2 x steel threaded clamps (big hose clamps), used the filter sock from the std pump I think. Changed it with fuel guage needle on empty line - started fine (on 2nd key turn) and hasn't missed a beat since, and I like to run to fuel light. (Yep change fuel filters regularly) You can hear the pump if you listen for it and can hear the pitch change from idle voltage to on throttle voltage, certainly not an isue though, nice to know it's working. FWIW: Nowhere near as loud as Bosch GTR pump in 200SX. (If you use a Walbro they are very sensitive to voltage vs flow rate) there is a graph somwhere about fuel pump comparison for a Supra (US site), google it.

Tommah, bad luck mate. But if you keep a clear head and make sure you take that written evidence to court I think you have an excellent chance of getting off. Whatever happens can you make sure you post up the happenings here. Some people never get back to the forums and we end up never knowing the outcomes from such cases. If we did then we could all as a car loving community work out better way to deal with these over zealous police. Seems like you have the brains to deal with this properly.

Yeah the NSX still looks good and it's a great car BUT Honda have always made cars that are fast enough to keep up, not ever being really fast, NSX holds true to this. But hopefully the next NSX will be FAST, all they have to do is give it a 5.5L V10 and some V-TEC yo! Give it 10 cylinders off the 2.2L S2000 engine! Should make 430kw and 570Nm and it would sound mean. Meanwhile where is Mazda with a twin turbo 20B-REW for a new RX-7 ?? (Imagine a light-weight RX7 with 340kw)

Equinox - That dyno chart is fine assuming you mean run about 1bar at manifold, 2.25 ratio. Remember the compressor charts are a ratio of output pressure/input pressure at the compressor housings (after losses). output pressure = pressure before losses through piping and intercooler plus normal atmosphere (estimate 2psi loss = 16.7 + 14.7) input pressure = pressure after vaccum loss to air filter and piping. (estimate 12.7psi, ie. 2psi vacuum relative to atmosphere) Ratio = (16.7 + 14.7)/12.7 = 2.5 (brackets are guestimates - I do not stand by them at all) Not being a smart arse just trying to create some clarity for those using compressor charts. Ohh and I agree GTRS would be my turbo of choice (if I wasn't so broke). HKS quote 225rwkw at 0.9bar I beleive on RB25, seems to be on the money.

R33 are a 5 speed auto? impressive.

This will take at least a month or so to work out. I don't think it will be happening anytime sooner than that. How do people feel about doing this on a weekday? ie. Monday/Tuesday/Wednesday. To cover travel expenses (airfares/accom/car hire) we will need as many as possible. Obviously this also may not happen at all - but I am giving it a try to see. Toshi feels that it is worth looking into but he did mention the costs and what people are willing to pay will need to match. So perhaps if you ask around? His comments are: He can do 2 fairly std cars a day. (He will need details of your car closer to the day) He can do R32, R33, R34 GTS cars (NOT S14/15 as he does not have daughter board atm) **** off-topic, how do I edit original post to make clearer? *******

I'm really not too sure if he does S14 ECU's (SR20DET), you can have a look at that link to the thread of Toshi (4 posts above - from PWND). Best to ask Toshi himself - his thread or via PM. At the moment expressions of interest are required as we want to know how much work is up here for him. PWND is helping to look at this as well as we are both very keen judging from his work with cars in Sydney. He can reflash the stock ECU and gets great results. The price is cheap and costs only a little more than an SAFC with dyno tune with superior results. It has more flexibility and is more powerful than a SAFC tune. R34 GTT owners he can also do (depeding on model of board I think?) so PM Toshi if interested. Toshi SAU thread (as above) Remember Brisbane prices will likely be more to cover travel expenses.

Hi guys, OK, as a first step we need some firm (ish) numbers so we can try to convince Toshi to visit us in Brisbane to do some remaps. If we can get a decent number then it might be worth his visit. We might have to pay a bit more for his airfares, but if we split it between us it would be good. He has asked on his post how many people in Brisbane want a tune. So express here then we can let him know. obviously I'm in. Others who have expressed interest are: PWND toddlls (GC) GTST (??)

Another 1 for Brisbane. If PWND, GTST and toddlls are still up for it that's 4.

AFter changing your O2 sensor get a REMAP....search the forums. 2 guys do them to stock R33 ECUs with their own wideband. Cost < $500.

You've used these boxes yourself? Any input cluster noise or synchro issues? Slow synchros I can deal with, but if it rattles from the input cluster I might as well keep mine cause that's the only reason I'm looking for a box.

Also interested: R33 GTST series II. Black sounds ideal - pics ?

Where did it come from/ Why you selling it? Doesn't have a noisy input cluster/whine?

Year? Km ? Clutch type?

Paid on Sunday, delivered Friday (BNE). Installed easily in R33 GTST, stock shroud/fan, has all mounting points needed for shroud and temp reader. Dropped temps considerably. Has not seen temps above 40% on gauge with aircon and traffic. Overall very happy - no leaks. Also stock cap is 1.1bar

New nissan bearings? Also, want to know CR (as above).

The Nulon additive is called something like Supercool or some such silly name. It's dark green and comes in 500mL for 10L. Says on the back DOES NOT CONTAIN GLYCOL. But hey it's up to you. I'm not saying don't run Nissan coolant, but I wouldn't assume that it's the best to use considering this is Australia not Japan and especially if you have an aluminium (replacement) radiator.

Here are the diagrams as promised for R33 Series 2 - RB25DET Heater Hoses: Coolant Hoses: Part numbers can be hard to make out, but these were supplied to my by Nissan parts person. There are prefix number to be attached to these, but now you can see what they see when looking for your parts. The thing in the top corner of the heater hoses is the white plastic part that goes on the firewall - I got a new one of these today.

I plan on using either Nulon radiator treatment (non-glycol) or Redline Water Wetter. These are both corrosion inhibitors/surfactants. About 500ml treats 10L and they contain NO GLYCOL. This is a good thing for Australia. These are NOT glycol coolants. I would imagine that the recommended coolant for Japan (which would contain Glycol around 20% to 50%) is not what they would recommend for Australia. IF you use a glycol based coolant then the cooling system does not work as well as if you use water with a corrosion inhibitor/surfactant. The gylcol is in there to reduce the freezing point of the coolant. This is very important to freezing climates as if your coolant freezes you can be in all sorts of trouble due to the expansion of water. The gylcol does however decrease the ability of your system to get rid of heat due to the much lower heat capacity of glycol. (Down to half the heat capacity of water) I think this is relavent for Australia - especially QLD in the summer with A/C on in traffic. For motorsport and fast road cars in a climate that does not experience freezing conditions I would use only water with an inhibitor/surfactant additive. This will provide better cooling that a glycol coolant. The surfactants are there to allow greater surface contact near hot surfaces of the head that may get bubbles forming - the surfactant decreases the size of these bubbles and allow graeter contact between water and the hot surface (I'm unsure if this happens in Skylines but you'd think it likely if you run higher than standard boost- and who doesn't!) Also if you have an aluminium radiator (the replacement ones ARE aluminium usually) then you need to make sure your coolant/inhibitor/whatever is good for aluminium as it has much higher corrosion that the original radiator) It is up to you however, if you live south of Sydney perhaps coolant is ideal for you. But it is not recommended for the track or high temp street driving/modified engines. Just make sure you use distilled water and corrosion inhibitor that is suitable for your type of radiator. Ohhh yeah, and do bleed the system while running- the bleed screw is the one in front of the plenum that says "do not open while hot", so open it when it's cold.

But Samco only make for GTR, pity. I've got a pic of the heater and cooling systems from Nissan, I will upload tonight or tomorrow. Got 2 heater hoses and the white plastic 4-way joiner thing on the firewall on order. I will also get Gates radiator pipes and the Mspec radiator. I will replace the other hoses next year - hopefully by then someone will make a silcon kit or something. Surely there are hundreds of R33 GTST owners out there who must be so close to needing new hoses, mine is a late 96 and it's time. What about those older car owners?

So far I have found: Heater hoses (4) in silicon by samco (UK) for R33/R34 and R32 GTR. Worth a look if you want quality. Ebay also has a 14 piece kit for the GTR (includes oil, air and water lines). But quality could be a bit unknown for pressure. I am in contact with Nissan atm, will give part numbers when I get them.

I want one for R33 GTST. And all the cooling system hoses, including heater hoses etc. Anybody know the part numbers or somewhere to get these?

Hi Everyone, Well while I was 600km from home I had a heater hose leak (R33 gtst). I made a bypass and have made it home, all good, no overheating issues. Now, I guess it is time to replace as many hoses as possible in the cooling system. So how many hoses are there and where do I get all these parts from? Can anyone tell me the part numbers for the heater hoses and any other necessary Nissan parts? I will replace as much straight/small hoses with Pirtek generic hose I guess. And the radiator must need replacing too, so I guess I'll get one of those Mspec ones? Anybody done this to an R33 GTST and can help me out with some advice? Is there a kit and a Nissan part number?

Looking for both heater hoses and related cooling system parts for R33 GTST. Got any part numbers?

GTS4 dreamer......you're dreaming. I've got less than 400km from a tank maybe 2 or 3 times in 18months. I've been close to 400km, but I average 450km. I have done 512km to a tank, which was around 80% highway. (Aircon used very little btw.) This is with a manual 96 GTST with 9.5psi, SAFCII (seat of pants tune), full exhaust, R34 SMIC on BP ultimate. With SK suspension on 235/45/17 Federal 595. Driving mostly around Brisbane including some peak hour, live at west end (so yes it's sees traffic), and only occasionally giving it the bootfull. So GTST4 perhaps it's your 4wd drivetrain that sucks your economy, or you drive harder than most, or you need a new O2 sensor? P.S. I would't call a logbook of 5811km of driving a guestimate But then I achieve under 7L/100km in a Clio Sport around town.