simpletool

Put in the front shocks, and raised by one notch (now on 2nd top notch). Car sits about 1cm above before, is much firmer when braking and turning while also being very much more comfortable over sharp bumps. Overall feels firmer, but you don't have to whince when a road join comes along. Overall it did what it says in the thread. Happy. Yet to put in rear shocks. btw 345mm at the front seems really good, springs must be some Jap spec ones that came on the front of the car.

Thanks Matt/Gary, I know I ordered at a bad time, so I had to wait. I got my shocks, bump stops and covers. Measured it today before fitment and got 335mm front, 340mm rear. I will raise the front one groove. Should make it handle better, more comfortably and give me some more gutter clearance. We'll see how it goes in practise. I had no idea it was THAT low....guard is still about 5mm above the tread. Thinking about it I assume that raising with short springs gives a limit to the suspension and could cause "topping out", if you know what I mean- when the other wheels compress.

Looks better than th e proto i reckon. should look good in the flesh!!! if they can take ~100kg out of it and add 50hp, it'll be a real goer. A real manual is essential to take Porsche buyers too, as they are one of the few who still buy manuals.

Firstly I have an R33. I already had a manual bleed valve fitted which was not plumbed into my factory boost controller. So although the solenoid id still electronically connected it is not plumbed into any piping. My twin solenoids from Blitz are mounted on the strut tower next to the factory one using one of those bolts on that bracket. Then it uses the stock plumbing points (R34 intercooler) for the solenoid, with the one going to the original blocked off. The boost on the dash on the R33 is read from the back of the plenum to a electronic boost sensor near the brake cylinder. So it will read even when the solenoid is disconnected. My idea is to raise the ratio to 40 or 50, with gain at 6 or 7.

Also mine boosts higher when cold - seems strange to me.

Have you got it on Auto or Manual mode? Try moving the gain up a little, I think standard it is 5, it can go a lot higher, but it is sensitive, move by 2 at a time. If it doesn't change anything by 10 then I'd look at your plumbing. Try using manual and setting the gain to 8 - 10 then moving the level or whatever it's called up to 60 or 65. Only move in small steps. I trust you have completely removed the plumbing from the original boost controller? I use Manual. Setting = Level 60, gain = 6. Auto set to 10psi, usually boosts to 9.8 or so, but not as quickly as manual mode.

Dont' worry, even police don't like traffic police

246.8rwkw say you made 216 @ 13psi. (fuel pump change) (216/28)X32 = 246.8 at 17psi.

Well I'm in the same boat. I have changed from platinum plugs (heat range 4!!!) to copper heat range 6. Changed fuel pump and filter (because it isn't a bad idea anyway) and have a SAFC 2. I have yet to fit and tune the SAFC 2. But judging from the fact that the longer I drive it the worse the misfire becomes (down to 3100rpm occasionally on 600km trip) I think the coil packs aren't coping well. Now maybe when I lean out the mixtures a bit with the SAFC it will spark ok again. But I'm not holding my breath on this one - thinking I will need splitfires as well. As I'm back to running 8psi and although it doesn't misfire as intensely it does misfire quite regulary around 4500 - 5500 rpm. Perhaps I should try the nail varnish trick? Is the problem fixable with the coilpacks, ie. is it the grounding of them? Or is it the actual coil packs themselves?

It's heading towards 2 month wait, and heard nothing......maybe he could clear his PMs once in awhile. Just answer the ones that are about orders recieved at least.

Yeah I've bought sway bars off him before too and it was all good. I know he's not dodgy, just seems like something must have happened to him?

I think I've been fairly trusting so far....but worries are starting to creep in. It seems like nobody has heard from him in a month, and he's going OS in 3 weeks. I'd really like some confirmation that he has my order and money.

Hi all, Firstly this is NOT meant to be a bitch thread about Sydneykid. He has been (from what I can tell) an excellent member of Skylines Australia. BUT, I would like to know where he has gone? He said he will be on Holidays in October, but I haven't heard from him since late July. I have sent payment for some goods and got nothing in return. So, has anyone heard from him or is everyone in the same boat? I'd just like to know where my money or order is at , or at least a reason for why I haven't heard diddly. Yes I have sent a PM (or 2) and email. Can somebody fill me in?

Has anybody heard from SK in the last 2 weeks? Or is he just not getting my messages? SK are you there? Are you ok?

Could have said the same thing about luxury cars before the LS400. Look at the american market now. You can't judge on the status quo. Mind you, it is a big risk and one that has to be done BETTER than the existing car makers. And as profitable as that market is right now, it has not always been profitable. Therefore up until the last few years it was not a market that a large company that has a duty to it's shareholders would take. Remember it was the CHEAPEST car in the Porsche line-up that made it profitable again. (the Boxter). However, economic returns aside. I think a good compromise for Toyota would be a 5.0 L V8 derived from LS460, with 2 medium turbos (around GTRS size)/ one per bank. Would make about 400rwkw on say 12psi. Too mcuh more than that wouldn't pass heat tests/emisions/drive quality/reliability on factory engines. More likely they would make around 400 flywheel KW and make it a bit lighter with aluminium and plastics. (<1400kg). Keep in mind the Bugatti Veyron has astronomical servicing costs and very frequent. ~746kw.

Sounds like a lovely idea, but a bit too southside for me to be a definate. Put me down as interested and thankful for the invite (albiet a general one).

Sounds EXACTLY like the problem I am having. I'd love to here if the splitfires actually fix the problem. So thanks for the thread updates so far Missing at 4500rpm, but not consistent. Happens more in lower gears than higher. Big affect on power, runs perfectly at lower rpm. I have R34 SMIC, 10psi, 3" from turbo. Have cleaned and regapped plugs 0.9mm, checked coils (look perfect), new fuel filter. Will be fitting walbro pump, copper plugs 0.9mm, clean AFM, SAFC 2. But I'm not confident it will fix it. I think it is coils too - but rather not spend over $500 if it's not. As Sydneykid stated in other posts he beleives it's much more likely a running rich problem, not coils. How are you AFRs around this rpm point? Since you have dyno chart, what are AFR like?

Hi Gary, Don't know if you got my PMs about payment made for Bilsteins? They're not in my outbox, ordered over a week ago. I guess you're just really busy lately?

Want a SAFC II, the one with knock detection. Have cash, will drive to pick it up if in Brisbane or near.

SK, I've got what looks to be king springs on the front of mine and original worn dampers. It hits the cut shorter bump stops often. Is fitting bilsteins likely to solve this or should I order whiteline springs with them? Also I have the adjustable sway bars. They are set on medium all around. Would you recommend maybe hard on the back? Thanks, Daniel.

Using RB74 front and rear pads. Stock rear dics and 4000 series (non-slotted) fronts on R33 GTSt. Good pad, warm up in one average stop first thing in the morning, can be very noisy if you don't grease the shims properly. Definately better than Nissan pads that seem to leave material on the disc after hard driving (makes discs feel temporarily warped) Been used around QR and seemed fine and dandy. But I've only got 170rwkw.

Perhaps you could try moving the vacuum (trigger) for the BOV from the plenum (stock location) to a splitter off the turbo (the one that goes to the wastegater/boost controller). This MIGHT do 2 things: 1. cause the BOV to open a little earlier ,and 2. perhaps there is a bigger pressure ripple near the turbo outlet pipe that will pop open the BOV with the small pressure differential. (1-2psi) This shouldn't be too hard to test, let us know how it goes. To reiterate, you should find the small pressure hose that goes from the BOV to the back of the plenum. Take the plenum end off and plumb it back in as close to the turbo (yet after the compressor) as possible- possibly off a splitter from the boost signal. (Remember to plug the outlet on the plenum). It might also be that the BOV simply won't budge with such a small pressure change. OR, it might not be a BOV issue at all. I'm not an expert, just trying to think it through.

OK yeah, it's PV = nRT. If you use: P = Kpa then V = L if you use: P = pa then V = cubic metres (1000L) anyway....now that we can all sleep....... I got 164 grams for a 235/45/17. Assuming that "air" is 70% nitrogen and 30% oxygen. So 1 mole of air = 28 x 0.7 + 32 x 0.3 = 29.2 g/mol And I got the volume as 46L, at 300 kelvin and 3 atmospheres. Or ~30psi (relative) So that gave me number of moles, n = (304 Kpa x 46L)/(8.314 x 300) = 5.6 moles. then 5.6 moles x 29.2 g/mole = 163.5 grams

OK OK, this probably the stupidest post I have made, but: What date? I can't find the bl**dy date.

Go Toyota and Renault. Never really liked Ferrari but I have a sinking feeling they will be very fast. Hopefully it is a close year, I'd love to see Williams, Renault and Toyota neck and neck at the top.