simpletool

I'd go a Hypergear highflow with Nistune. One of the moderate high-flow options with internal gate. You'll need the Blitz SBC - it is a good boost controller. Nistune does NOT control boost. What power level do you want. There are pros and cons with bigger turbos. Something around 240-250rwkw is pretty sweet. E85 adds very close to 10% of power and some response. Up to you if you think it's worth the extra tuning cost/larger injectors, reduced range (300km per tank) and reduced number of fill-up spots. I've got ~235wkw from: AX53B70 turbo Nistune Blitz ID3 boost controller S15 injectors FMIC, dump/exhaust, big 100 cell cat, etc all suspension done, some bushes, strut mount, etc 595RSR tyres A GREAT daily but f I did it again now I'd probably start with a GT30 0.82 internal gate and E85 with bigger injectors and good local coilovers. BUT that's because I have another car as a daily.

You can easily tell the difference with just a Nismo transmission mount. This is not a subjective thing it's bloody stupidly obvious when you drive it and change gears. A very good upgrade and worth the money. Engine mounts I haven't done because they raise the engine a bit and there isn't much clearance now to the strut tower bar. However comparing solid mounts to Nismo mounts is rather pointless. If you want to be able to drive your car on the street without ludicrous amounts of vibration then don't get solid mounts. If your penis is VERY small then solid mounts might somehow compensate for that in retarded non-logical kind of manner.

you're right, it depends on rubber. I'd go +25 on the front with 235s. +35 on the rear with 275 tyres will be a nice tight fit

Makes me feel better for buying the UAS ones. Absolutely no grinding required, not even close. Just had a slight offset issue (fixed with 1.5mm spacer) and slight pad overhang that was 100% fixed by changing to DB1199 pads. I guess they wanted to minimize the pad overhang issue by positioning the caliper closer to the rotor, but in doing so resulted in grinding required (which I wouldn't do). Would have been better if they worked with local pad supplier to provide DB1199 pads.

In all seriousness those 3 points on speed trial could be twisted to cover many many many situations on the road. Included used car test drives, mechanics drives after working on cars, bedding in brake pads, etc.

PRetty sure there would be a spline count difference and a 1mm diameter difference at least. There certainly is between S15 and R34 GTT diffs. I can't see the GTR reverting to smaller diameter output shafts. GTR typically use R230 diffs.

Mine rattles 1700-2000rpm also in all gears. A fairly loud vibration. Been doing it for 6 years/120,000km. Took it to a gearbox place 5 years ago and they said gear chatter and it wouldn't break. Only now am I looking at another gearbox due to increasing bearing noise.

It's not the manifold doing that.

Loses 20% torque in 600rpm. What happens between 5000 and 5600rpm? Ignition timing reduction? Boost drop?

Fat BBS wheels look fantastic on R33 GTRs.

Not sure if leaving it in SA rego will help. I also can't help with RWC or mod plates, sorry. From the photos your cars looks too low and I'd suspect the cops find that the easiest thing to issue a defect for.

If it gets silly then it'll likely be the last straw for skyline ownership for me.

I am wondering about the definition of "time trial".

So I wonder how the police will interpret these new anti-hoon laws and how hard they will push them? From the example set by the anti-bikie laws I think people should expect them to be pushed very hard over the next few weeks. Personally I'm going to try and avoid driving the Skyline for a few weeks. Any thought? Anyone come into contact with them already, or over the weekend?

Should be perfectly fine, but a good precaution is to change the fuel filter after the first or 2nd tank. This is because ethanol can dissolve some of the gunk built up in the system. The extra fuel usage would only be 2-3% on closed loop, and essentially nothing on open loop unless you re-tune it slightly. The ethanol content should help in hot weather as a bit of ethanol both boosts octane and broadens the optimum optimum timing point. I wonder if it is only 100 octane, or 101-102 ?

That escalated quickly.

Looks fantastic but wondering about the practicality of it for 2 reasons. 1 - The movement in the pipe will be slightly more than the engine since it's further away from the mounts. 2- The HEAT coming out of that is surely going to bubble the bonnet.

R33 GTST, Apexi AX53B70 running 16psi, with supporting mods (intercooler, injectors, Nistune). I thought it was tidy enough. Not a huge fan of 400m times as I don't like to launch too hard or smash the gears.

Tested my 80 - 120 km/h time today. Pretty safe and easy to do on closed roads. Quite consistent as it doesn't matter about grip or launch technique and allows comparison to flexibility times of modern cars. I tested 3rd gear, hand-timed, starting to accelerate at 60km/h. Temp = 29°C Average = 2.8 seconds. Obviously some room for error there but still not too bad in the heat. Will now need to test 4th gear. example of cars for comparison - obviously gearing is a large factor (ie. Evo VIII). http://www.demonripper.com/Temp/Accelerationstest%2080-120.pdf

Yeah, not a bad idea. Although the tuner would need to remember that light load, and low RPM areas on the map would need to be compensated, not just areas under load/booooooost. As would any background timing tables such as idle, cold start, etc.

Run it in mine. Put another 1° on the boost table just for the farks. and 2% more fuel as appropriate.

Depends on Exedy model. There are the HD, HDD, HDD+, HDDDDDDDDDDD++++, etc. Then there is the SO series. SO is made in Japan and is apparently all a bit better.

I doubt you'll even see 10psi with stock boost control (and the free boost mod). That is a nice street setup and will need a tune to get the best from. Expect 180rwkw. Still, Nistune might be better. Depends if you have any future plans at all ?! 90% of people do, but 85% of stats are made up 110% of the time.

235/40 is the correct size, not 245/40, and they're cheaper. 9.5" +30 is normally said to hit the inside on the front. A RSR 265/35/18 on +22 would be DAMN tight on the rear I'd think it would hit without some decent neg camber.

One option is to fight it like the bikie gangs do. Form a car club with high entry fees, pool the money and use this to fight ALL suspect fines to members. The club helps document and organise material for defence. Police will reduce activity on the cars which are not defectable or borderline, however the idiots driving clearly defectable cars will still get stung.