simpletool

Half a day too late. oops

Sounds like synchros to me from that clarification. Remember that it is a often used gate AND it is the largest relative speed difference in the gearbox. (Largest rev difference from 1st to 2nd) so they work hard. Shift slow and feel the gate "open" when you change. No dragging from the lights for you anymore Throw some new oil in and check the clutch is releasing fully.

Oppinions are divided about Shockproof oils in the gearbox, relating to the synchro life. There are other threads that deal with this, though last time I checked none had come to any conclusion and are full of anecdotal evidence. Since most people that use shockproof oil only do so after a problem is apparent it's hard to tell whether the oil contributes or not when/if the gearbox claps out. Others swear by cars they have used the oil in for years. Lightweight shockproof is one of the oils recommended by redline. I use Redline MT90 (75w/90) oil in my GTST gearbox, but it isn't long enough to talk of any long term possible problems. It does shift a bit better when cold - v similar to warm. The diff is a viscous unit (assuming you don't have an active diff) so you won't need a true LSD oil. However I use the expensive Castrol stuff (silver bottle about $25 a litre), 80w-140 I think with the fiction additive. Just because I can and it's only done once every 2 years.

Yes. You can get more power. Will you get more power? Maybe not. If it flows better (tank design, end plates, piping) then you'll get more power. As the turbo will not be robbing as much exhaust energy for the same inlet pressure to the engine, therefore making more power. This is one measure of efficiency. Also, the inlet air maybe denser (although this is not all that significant usually), depends on how hot the air is entering your engine at the moment. ie. efficiency of an engine depends also on the heat difference between input and output air. More often you will realise more power (that's a relative more power) by increasing the timing and or boost pressure. (But a cooler can make more power before changing any engine parameters).

Hi there. I'm after a R34 std side-mount intercooler, as an upgrade for my R33. So if you've got one lying around you know what to do. Thanks.

Not entirely true. You get a slight increase in power from the cooler denser air at the same pressure and better flow design. Engines make their power from the difference in heat between in and out. Cooler air in and same higher temp out = more power. I usually estimate 2% power gain for a intercooler upgrade at same pressure, but it can vary depending on how good the GTR one was to begin with, this one looks like it has good end tanks compared to GTR. I guess you know most of this though. Definative answer = I don't know. Guestimate = 4kw atw

Went to ATP yesterday, and saw the new Garrett internal gated T3 housings. Wow, finally they are here. Just FYI. Or does everyone already know this?

Well I've only ever seen stats that say driver training does work (ie. reduce deaths/serious accidents), I've never seen stats that say driver training increases accidents/deaths. Soo...........does anyone have any evidence at all that driver training increases deaths/accidents? Can you post that here ??? otherwise shut the f*ck up. Clearly getting a licence is way too easy (at least here in QLD), almost no training at all for how to use the most complicated and dangerous device most people will ever use. When there are other countries that give a lot of driver training. (Germany/Austria are 2 that spring to mind as good examples) Why can't we make it at the cost of the person who wants to get a licence? And there's plenty of money for subsidies. Truly there is. And raise some speed limits while they're at it.

I'm in , $5 or $10 whatever. How will we ever know if it's actually on?

Well I'm going to use Redline MT90 (it's a 75W/90) oil without the shockproof particles. I'll see how it goes. You know a lot of these shift problems could be due to the clutch not fully disengaging, particularly if you have a heavier pressure plate and haven't tweaked the clutch play. Something to look into before the oil if you are having shift problems. You need virtually the entire clutch master cylinder length used fully to change gears in an R33 with a heavier pressure plate. And it only takes 10 minutes to adjust.

oohhh c'mon somebody must know how to do this? It must be fairly simple yeah?

OK, the situation is my car is pinging lightly in the cold weather. I know it has been on a dyno with the previous owner and had the timing advanced, it has the standard computer and running ~9psi with a turbosmart bleed valve. I know how to adjust ignition timing with a distributor but not entirely sure how with a crank angle sensor. So what do I need to do to retard the timing a touch? 1. Do I need to disconnect anything or follow a certain order for it to be effective? 2. Do I need to turn it clockwise (I'm assuming it's clockwise) 3. Is there anything special I should know? A little advice would be much appreciated as if I could just take it back a few degrees that would give me great piece of mind. Also, why I'm here, does adjusting the CAS even make much of a difference? I assume it's the only way I can ajust the timing with the standard computer. Thanks.

I've never had a consistent reply from Fulcrum. So I wouldn't trust what some guy from fulcrum said. I would believe SK, and from what I've seen of the internal differences between the shocks, I'd be getting the bilsteins.

Well I've got Nankang NS-II and I'm surprised how good they are really. Now, they're not as good as the Japanese/German tyres but they are much much better than really cheap tyres used to be. They actually have a good feel. However I do qualify this post by saying that I've never had other tyres on this particular car. (and yes I've driven on "good" tyres)

"In addition the 6 simple inner holes in the twin tube piston do not offer the variability in damping that the triangular shaped inner valve orifices do on the twin tube piston" just one typing error SK, that should read mono tube piston at the end yeah.......just thought it'd save confusion if I pointed it out. Wow, I was impressed by the size difference of those valves. Got to say the japanese shocks on mine are harsher than need be on fast movements. (ie. Road works)

OK, I'm somewhat of a noob. I'll try and meet up with everyone at Mt Cootha ~ 9:30pm. It'll be good to meet some people and chat skylines. I'll be in a white '96 R33.

Thanks R32R, it seem like it's coming from gearbox....but hard to tell with these things...since they're all joined. It's nothing severe......I'm thinking a loose/busted mount causing a bigger rattle than standard. And yep I drive around 1700-1800 in 3rd and 4th in traffic and really light throttle. Not labouring engine. Driveline rattle kind of reminds me of AE86 actually.....that used to do a similar thing.

1. Does the caster kit KCA331 improve steering feel? Because I want more feel in the steering. Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Should l get the sterring rack bushes instead (from super pro)??? Or perhaps both? 2. Also does the subframe lock increase stress on the factory subframe bushes that get compressed? 3. I have fairly stiff springs and shocks atm (but not as stiff as say Tein HA), would the addition of anti-sway bars front and rear make it much stiffer.....because it's acceptable at the moment....much stiffer and it would be no good. I would like more roll resistance however. Thanks...SK you're a champ. Sorry about the questions I just like to know exactly what I'm getting into when I buy.

It's 14.7 psi From all I've heard 10-11 psi is upper safe limit for turbo. Above that there is very little power to be had. Efficiency of turbo is falling FAST.

Hi everyone, I've just bought a series 2 R33 GTS-T (manual). It has a driveline shudder and audible rattle between 1600 and 1800rpm. Is this common? What sort of things cause this? It happens in any gear, and seemingly any throttle position (although the noise changes pitch obviously). I'm unsure as to whether it is gearbox bearings, driveshaft bearings or mounts? No loud bearing noise with clutch in or out in neutral. Smooth apart from this low rpm shudder. The car is estimated to have travelled 100-120 000km. Car has 170rwkw and standard type clutch. Just wanted some inside info before I let the monkeys at it.

Graph says HP. ie. 261 kwatw but regardless nice car.

Very interested BUT I'm in Brisbane...not quite interested enough to fly up there to check it out. If I was in Rocky I'd be over there in a flash. The mods look good though. How's the tune for Australian fuel and temperature?

Hmm... Porsche Carrera GT (pose mobile) Gambella GT750 (good idea from above) (a people carrier) Westfield w/SR20 (supercharge it, play with it, race it) Porsche 993 911 turbo (daily driver) Jaguar XKSS (hard to decide on the classic) that's 3 for Porsche, 1 for NZ and I NEVER thought I'd consider a jag until festival of speed.

Well I haven't bought a skyline...yet. It should be damn soon. But that doesn't stop me planning a few simple things including a stereo. Most likely I'll be using QUALITY splits (since they provide 95%) of the detail that I hear. A decent head deck (probably pioneer since that's what they do best - for about $200-250) and a 10" sub to fit near the battery, I'm still tossing up where to put the amp. I highly doubt the splits will be pioneer - they aren't that good especially for the money. Probably focal, infinity, peerless, or any other ACTUAL SPEAKER company. Installed properly into the front doors. Amp will probably be a 4 channel bridged for the sub, no rear speakers, use the empty holes to allow bass to travel easier into the boot (although this could cause a port noise issue which I'll look into) The sub could be any brand really but might be peerless XLS series, something that sounds good in a small sealed enclosure (and Peerless is different) For the money this will cost I can't see a better way to do it. ohhh...and stereo is 2 channel - why would you need 4 channels to reproduce it? If I was you I'd save several hundred on the deck and several hundred on the rear speakers. Spend this extra $500 or so on quality front speakers and install. The sound quality from decks varies insignificantly compared to speaker and install.

My first car was an AE86, paid $5400 in 1995 for it, it ws nice back then, blew an engine a few years later put in a 4AGE, k-mac suspension, then it gradually went to shit over the next 4 years. To think they finally appreciated right after I sold it. Bugger! GREAT first car, but not for the current money. And try to find parts...ouch! Currently got a RB30 R31 skyline, so cheap, so smooth and amazingly not that bad to drive.