simpletool

It sucks and hopefully there will be enough votes to get noticed BUT I wouldn't hold your breath. Currently the Australian attitude is paranoia about losing their riches from the Howard years. A lot of minorities are free game and car enthusiasts are right up there with boat people. If you think the general public care at all about cars getting defect notices then you live in a bubble. While the majority of cars attending downshift are in registerable condition there are a significant minority that are OBVIOUSLY defectable. The public does not care enough to distinguish between a legally modified and illegally modified car attending a car meet. While there are defectable cars attending downshift the police will keep turning up and the public will not be concerned. And that is the truth of the matter. Personally I think the best option is a fact-based campaign, not emotionally based. The public does not related to car enthusiasts, but if it can be shown that police spend a disproportionate amount of time looking at defective cars compared to violent and organised crime then the public will care.

235/40 on 9" rims is a mild stretch and by far the cheapest. If you want mild stretch at a reasonable price there is no other option worth considering, all round. It's also the right diameter. Otherwise 235/40 & 265/35 rear is a good mix, but 265/35 is not stretch on a 9" but is a good vertical fitment (you'll need offset over 30 to fit).

0 toe at the front is better, gives more grip and turn-in at the front. I'd keep some rear toe-in for stability under braking. You've got a good amount of camber, but it's a bit uneven at the front, yet the caster is the same. Should be the other way around. Disclaimer: I'm no expert

Pre-load shouldn't affect ride noticeably. Personally I wouldn't be confident that the damping settings on BC's are repeatable between sets - without some evidence. Normally the term "bouncy" is used when the rebound is set too low and the car oscillates up and down after a bump. I think you must mean "harsh" or "stiff" if backing off the damping helped (the compression damping was too high). I don't hold much hope that anyone will be able to help you over the internet. So maybe just play around and see what you like. Otherwise take them to a proper suspension place and get them set. But by then you'd be better off having sold them and bought Shockworks or MCA Blue.

Sorry if anyone has already mentioned this but Jim Wolf has another solution which is replacing the CAS pin drive. Obviously this is potentially only a VG30 issue, but might be realted. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/VG30DETT_CAS_COUPLING_MISALIGNMENT.pdf I've also thought if I come across the problem and it is a worn pin drive then a cheap trick worth a try would be to coat the CAS pin with Loctite 243. (Obviously disassembly might be a bit tricky)

If I get a centre bearing fitted before then I'm in. The car is currently up on stands. I was the one who busted a diff at QR many months ago. Put a new diff in it, all good but decided I needed a new centre bearing for good measure. The movement and talilshaft vibration from play in the bushing of around ±2cm might have been what cause the last diff to spit teeth at 160kph.

R34 helical centres are mythical creatures.

Did you use the correct AFM? Off the top of my head the series 1 and 2 are different AFM units. > Series 2 are same as R34. 1. Does it drive fine now? 2. Reset the ECU and re-run the diagnostic. If the knock sensors are stuffed then short them out.

Indeed, a pathetic article that uses a test not designed for engine oils. It is totally and completely irrelevant testing. Typical of the sort of crap in most car magazines.

Shell Helix Ultra is my back-up oil. Good quality, easy to purchase if I'm out of internet oil. My most used oil since 2002. It is MB229.5 accredited, which is a good. My typical oil now is Mobil 1 0-40w (internet bulk buy). Highly recommend it.

And.....they're still coming...somewhere. I bought the adapters from UAS, didn't need any butchering, just bent the dust shield back about 10mm. Also needed 1.5mm of shim to centre the caliper. I used the ATTKD 2-piece rotor with curved vanes. They're fixed mount 2-piece but well priced/featured compared to other 324mm rotors. Yet to drive on them though. They also still fit nicely with the typical HEL braided lines.

Also this is a series 2 R33. So maybe they swapped the bearing type? OK, a bit more google searching and it's the same as S14, S15, R34. I'll get it from Nissan.

Anybody know the CORRECT part for an R33 GTST centre bearing? I've got my old bearing off and realised the R32 bearing will not fit. The ID/OD of the mating shrouds are incorrect - at both end. So it both won't go onto the drive shaft and the end won't be able to go on after the bearing. Used part NP-30-6250 from Hardy Spicer. Bought from Just Jap. A few sites list these as compatible for R32 and R33. I can't see how. These flanges look different to the factory item also. There is a double flange on one side that is NOT on the factory item which means it won't fit. Also the driveshaft end has a thick flange where the ID is smaller than the driveshaft at that point by 2 mm.

FWIW was a 27mm nut on my R33 GTST.

You NEED to get this fired up for this Saturday. NEED.

Oii....how's the writing going? Why are you always fiddling with wiring when I'm on uni break? I'll leave it up to PSI999 to explain what happened to Nistune. From memory there was too much work left to do within Nistune to do with assigning variables for cranking and idle (lots of tables did nothing and some variables such as crank pulse-width seemed completely absent - not good for over double the injector size). Tried to do some work-arounds but looked like it wasn't going to be resolved satisfactorily.

and remember kids... Things can ALWAYS be worse.

He who laughs last, laughs hardest. ......But probably because they're a bit slow.

It could also be an effect of the BOV set too hard, or not having one at all.

I can't think how it could be the oil unless having none has caused a failure. Definitely sounds tune related. The combination you have described plus AFC Neo = monkey purple dishwasher moon dog wonder special long time. ie = it does not make sense and will not work properly. Do not drive the car until it gets a proper tune.

Just double check you are searching the entire forums - and not just this section which is drivetrain and transmission. If it's anywhere it will be in the sub-forum "Forced Induction Performance". ie. This thread is in the wrong section.

Sucks to hear but you should NEVER park on the street in the GC. The mid-level crime in GC is equal to almost anywhere in the country. I'd suggest moving, unless you make a living from the nightlife ?

IF they are valved anything like the R33 Bilsteins then they will prefer a slightly firmer spring than Kings. I put on the Tein S-tech (medium) springs which are ~20% firmer than Kings and it rides BETTER and handles better. Another member said identical same thing when I fitted mine. Even better you could sleeve the shocks and get 2.5" ID springs - something like 5kg/mm front, 4kg/mm rear.

Apparently this does work. As both diffs have the 30mm, 31 spline output/half-shafts, which the centres on S15 and R34 are made for. I have no real proof of this however, but it is something I am also looking at doing one-day.

If it helps I put an R34 manual GTT diff into my non-abs R33 yesterday. Fitted up no problems. Well actually there was a problem because the whiteline pinion mount bushes were slightly too small ID but it all got sorted with the help of an angle grinder.