simpletool

Top tip: Don't go to Pedders. I've been to 3 in my life-time and each experience was well below average. A combination of poor diagnosis, expensive parts and labour and theft of parts. Try a specialist suspension place (independent), or even Fulcrum. Fulcrum (I've been to 2) is not exactly fantastic, but MUCH better than Pedders.

AFAIK know. R33 GTST: ABS has speed sensor on nose - diff housing is longer NON-ABS has no speed sensor and shorter diff housing All have 29mm, 30 spline output shafts (same as S13-S14, R32) R34 GTT: All have speed sensors on output shafts. Diff are the same length as R33 NON-ABS. Series 1 have viscous Series 2 (manual, turbo ONLY) have helical centre All have 30mm, 31 spline output shafts (same as S15 BUT 5-bolt). Therefore you CAN swap a R34 GTT diff into an R33 as long as the R33 is non-ABS. You CANNOT swap the centres from an R34 into anything R33, R32, S14, S13 as the output shafts are 1mm larger on the R34 and S15. Some of this is, as yet, unconfirmed.

Looking for a diff. Would be handy if someone in Brisbane had a spare R33 or R34 diff. I'm the guy who broke a diff at QR happy laps..........boom boom

A stock BOV will make almost no noise ASSUMING you have the stock airbox fitted. It sounds like your real issue is a pod filter, etc.

ECU Intercooler Injectors Fuel pump larger turbo (GT30 0.82 internal gate - at the largest) dump pipe full exhaust then , dyno tune

Looking for a genuine helical R34 diff. Need 5-bolt half-shafts but apparently they all are. Anyone got one?

What type of diff (auto obviously?) What is the ratio? What type of half-shafts (5-bolt, 6 bolt, 3x2 bolt?)

Yes, definitely something that needs careful attention. Too much water application and crack, schnap, eeerrriiiiggghhhhh, bbrrrkkkkkkkssshhhhhh, ouch.

I've always wanted a 52 trim GT3076 with something like a .73 housing. Would be good for around 280rwkw (on an Aussie dyno). Then again a HKS GT2835 would be fantastic too - just stupidly pricey and needing a fancy dump pipe.

Got any pics of fitment? and +1 to better front tyres. It's good to use the same tyres all around. BTW. I chose the 22mm adjustable rear based on % increase over stock. It should be right, and you can adjust to equivalent of 21, 22, 23mm (approximately).

Probably better to keep 235/40/18 and run 10mm spacers. Or get wheels with a lower offset.

Take a pic of AFM. I have a series 2 AFM in good nick that I'm not using. Upgraded to Z32 yonks ago.

AArrrgghhhh QR !!! I does hates QR. Still I might join, you gotta take what you can get right?

Yeah, normally people turn the boost DOWN for a track day. You don't need the power on the track, it's better to have moderate power and concentrate on being smooth and taking good lines. An extra 20-30hp at the wheels isn't going to make a huge difference if you are a nooby.

Went on the Lakeside website and noticed they have put up SAU breakfast laps for the 17th Feb. Is this happening?

Those deflectors look like would do a decent job of pushing air towards and into the core. At a guess they'd have to at least double the airflow available to the vanes. With a bit of shaping/massaging of the surface of the deflectors then they'd direct air even better into the core. But yes, ducting would work much better again. Something similar from Porsche forums: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/167598-brake-upgrade-35-works-993-deflectors.html

Yep, with 8kg front/6kg rear you'd want a 22 adjustable to match the 27mm fixed. Will make a massive difference to handling. You'll want the adjustable version to fine tune the balance. What rims are those? I'm interested as 9" +23 sounds like a good fitment. I'm surprised that 265/35 fit with +23.

In response to the OP: Yes !

Wow, and Toyota typically has the best training program. Maybe they ran out of good techs when they sent them all to Lexus?

I think your inbox is full

4 pages to come to the conclusion that a GTRS running 20psi on an RB25 doing track work is going to exceed the design temps? Pretty obvious, HKS rate them at 0.9bar on an RB25. I wouldn't put more than 1.1 bar through one on a street/cafe racer RB25. You're not just past the turbine flow, you're off the compressor map too. 20psi is around 2.6:1 pressure ratio.

The new design is "balls deep", and by that I think I mean awesome, or some such. Quality input, I know.

^^ Agree. Buying springs individually is for people with quality shocks, DIY, and those with a good adjustment (separate bound/rebound). Also people might go a have a 7kg and have a 6 and a 8kg sitting on the shelf to tweak the rates for different tracks, front/rear bias, etc.

The best way is almost certain to be to sell the coilovers as they are, and buy something with a lower spring rate (BC racing get a good mention for the low $$$). But they don't make anything all that soft, and the valving is only OK.

If you MUST get 300rwkw on 98ron then a 3076 (56 trim) 0.82 is the minimum you will need. Even then you might not get there and depends on dyno as much as engine/tune. If you get a good exhaust manifold and use an external gate then you'd be more sure of making the magic number, but you'll still need the 0.82 and 1.3 bar. A stock engine will last OK for street use, occasional track days and depends on how you use it/abuse it. Also need 600+ cc injectors, perhaps the 740cc Nismo to allow E85 use in future?