simpletool

Stock are around 2.7 - 2.9kg/mm., according to Tein. I don't remember SK recommended 6/4 for the street, I'm sure he would say that is well on the firm side.

A 3.5" is a good size for a 3582. The bee's d!ck in power jump to 4" won't be worth it at 300-350rwkw. You also won't notice the power drop from a 2nd muffler. Just make sure it is a quality large capacity straight through type (oval body).

I think some simple air guides would help quite a lot. Coupled with a cross-over pad like DS2500 or A1RM pads. Next step would be HC+ pads, which can be driven on the street (weekend car). GKTech have the R33 adapters to 324mm back on the drawing board. With decent tyres you won't have to wipe off so much speed for corner entry. The brakes are probably good enough for most Aussie tracks for R33 up to 250-260rwkw, with appropriate pads.

I currently run 5/4.5 and I find it a great compromise. (I have front and rear whiteline adjustable sway bars with both set to hard). I'd be reluctant to change my setup but if I had a choice of any spring rate for a street R33 and custom shocks to match I would go 6/5 (max). I can't see how you could need any more than 6/5 for street duty. I actually doubt I use use more than 5/4.5 and that's with Federal RSR tyres around Mt Nebo. You only need enough spring to control pitch, any excessive body roll should be cured with sway bar rates. A car with 6kg rear springs wouldn't have much rear grip on street tyres.

Damn, the one day I can't go this whole week.

I need to get mine down to QR. I'm hoping to break into the 12s and run 110mph. Will probably be joined by an Evo (looking to break into 11s) and an Sti (who wants to stay faster than me).

Flat out...HELL NO. If a GT30 with 0.63 doesn't make 200rwkw ++ then there is something else wrong. Period. I'm beginning to suspect a blockage of some sort (either intake or exhaust - or cam set incorrectly) coupled with resultant ignition timing being way too low. 1. Put the mild cam back in and check it is dialed in correctly. 2. Pull back the boost pressure (I'd suggest 13psi) 3. Try and run some more ignition timing 4. Check for boost leaks, intake/exhaust blockages P.S. The mention of virtually every crappy of mis-matched turbo available in one thread is making me nauseaous. (2540, 3082, GCG turbo, GT30 w/.63 hotside.....urrrghhhhh).

Yeah you should go the D2 group buy. There is no such thing as a cheap brake upgrade for a GTR. You'll want more than 324mm in the future anyway, those things are really hard on front brakes.

You mean the outer shell of the AFM is broken? Or the intake pipe is otherwise compromised? This is a serious problem but it might not be THE problem. How much boost? What is the ECU ? Check for any air leaks especially between: 1 - AFM and turbo 2 - Turbo and throttle body (BOV connection, intercooler pipe connections, etc).

Also LINK. I'd go Nistune on a 8-bit Z32 ECU. I've got one myself. If your tuner doesn't know Nistune I'd be suspicious. However the Z32 into R33 requires more than basic knowledge to work correctly (remove knock sensor, fuel temp resistor, etc).

Also interested. I KNOW what the stock ignition and fuel maps look like. If it's not retarding the timing and dumping in fuel then there one of these is false: 1 - 11psi on highflow turbo 2 - stock ECU OR.............. I'm about to learn something. Getting pretty excited about the prospect.

Was about to say check the pipe between the AFM and turbo inlet - also check the plumbing of the BOV return pipe that joins before the turbo. BTW - don't take advice from random people about turbo cars. SAU is the best source of info for for RB engines.

I want the keys next time Need to compare it to my lowly RB. An amazing build, it's only now I'm looking at some of the details in the build thread/s that I can see how amazing it was for it to start and run first time with no issues. I'm keen to sort out the "funny" logic tables in VQ nistune world.

Interested in the exhaust and/or the support bracket from the gearbox mount. Also would be interesting to see any interior bits n pieces.

The car feels slow because you've retarded the ENTIRE map by maybe 3 or 4 degrees (depends how far you've rotated it). This will have a dramatic effect on the general feel of the car and response. You really only want to reduce the timing aroudn 4400-5200 as the turbo is coming onto boost (and stop the interpolation into R&R as it goes above 8psi). The problem with the R33 is that it isn't able to be flashed and you need a Z32 ECU to get Nistune. If you are sure you only want to potter around with 10psi or so I'd recommend getting an R34 SMIC and a generic mail tune/ECU chip. LOTS of people aren't going to agree with me because if you are going to modify in the future you it will be worthless and you will end up getting nistune or Power FC or whatever anyway. This is what ended up happening to me. But if you aren't going to swap the turbo and put on a front mount then I reckon a mail order re-chip is the way to go. I was pretty happy with mine with 10psi and 180rwkw and the R34 SMIC. Adding a front mount did nothing but add a LOT of lag on the stock turbo. my 2 cents.

Nice thread. If only you put it in an R33 Will be fun deducing all the functions of the VQ computer with Nistune.

I go there and check it out. Do some work DH.

I have my car back now. Not that anyone knows me.

And make sure to take into account parallax error Could be pinging, especially stock ECU, 10psi and flooring from 5000rpm. The process of AFM > ECU > timing change isn't especially quick in that region, compared to the ability of the tiny stock turbo to overboost. If it's a high pitched rapid semi-regular tinkle then it's probably pinging.

That is shockingly bad. Whatever the problem the owner would have known this engine was seriously broken LONG before he took his foot off the loud pedal. Go out and buy a stock RB25, go from there. You can keep some ancillaries from this engine as spare. Personally I'd take it to a different engine builder.

In my experience that metal sleeve ISN'T attached to the rubber. Just use some silicone spray and knock it out. You can swap for a thinner shim, or get it machined. I had to do the opposite and make it tighter. I just used some silicone wrap to fill the gap.

If you were to do this jacked in the air I imagine that turn wouldn't be needed (or only half a turn). I find there is a tension difference on my front strut brace between on the ground and in the air.

Man I hope these come soon. I'm SERIOUSLY due for new pads and rotors on the front. Would love to buy the 324mm rotors.

$800? I take it that was edited out of the OP? My rebuild kit was $90 for the pair, took a couple of hours. It's pretty easy once you manage to remove the pistons. You'll want to use air pressure to get them out, and have clamps and a way to get out the 2nd, 3rd and 4th pots. Not entirely sure your maths is accurate Nismoid. The 356mm kit is $1800, so that a $800 plus another $1000 (+ shipping). Your GB is very prominently featured on this website.

350mm front, 355mm rear should be fine. That isn't that low, it's 20mm lower than standard. My mind is picturing all sorts of gheyness with the bodykit.