simpletool

From memory it is 7.5mm hose as you suspect, not 7.9mm or 8mm. I have sections of all sorts of hose in the garage, never know when I needed something and the R33 used to be my only car. I measured the pipe diameter of the fitting and it is smaller than 8mm, so I used 7.5mm hose.

You're points are valid but the owner states a 3" exhaust (not 4"), you'd need to be able to fit something like 80cm of pipe though.

Yeah, it seems no new wheels come in offsets above +22. I'd love some 18 x 9 +25. They'd have the entire non-hellaflush market to themselves.

GREAT write-up but aren't wheel nuts meant to go on dry? (ie. no grease on wheel studs) then 100-110Nm.

OR fit a side-branch resonator. Will fix the drone for sure, but it'll be some interesting fabrication work.

You can fit 16" x 10" x 6" as the rear muffler, the centre muffler needs to be smaller in every dimension. At a guess I'd say 12" x 8" x 5" - even that would be maxing out the space. The 2 x 2.5" Fujitsubo system I have lying in the garage has pretty much the biggest mufflers possible in each space. I thought it was too quiet (And so did my friends) so I replaced it with a 80mm Apexi Bomber (copy) which drones at 2500-3000rpm as you would expect. You could eliminate most of the drone with a side-branch resonator, or a big oval muffler (with resonance chamber). But a big muffler will cost $400+.

You say stock, but you don't have an aftermarket BOV do you? Sounds like a couple of problems. 1 - Slight leak in the vacuum lines (remove each line from the plenum during fast idle and if removing one doesn't make a difference then it's probably leaking). 2 - Get some upper engine cleaner (Nulon). Follow the directions on the can. But you don't need to bother with the squirting into the pistons, etc. Just clean the plenum and AAC/IAV. HINT use a fast idle for both of the above ~1200rpm: Get a folded piece of paper or business card and use it as a slight spacer ~2mm on the throttle body. (Between the throttle stop and the accelerator cable). Gives you a nice fast idle ~1200rpm.

United sell E10, 100RON up here in Brisbane.......stupid me ! and yes, from the MSDS you can be fairly confident that United 100 is 98RON + 10% ethanol. That also makes sense with my quick calcs.

OP: What is wrong with the current engine ? Does he want to do track work? High cornering speeds? Something between the $13k and $6.75k package would be good, the budget package with rods and cams perhaps = $10k? Then you'll want turbos ($3k), ECU ($1k), tune ($1k), injectors and pump ($1.5k), dump pipes ($1k), intercooler ($1k), fitting ($1.5k). Easy $10k apart from the build.

I'm going to give E10 a try. Mixing E85 with 98RON. From the technical paper here, and a few people's thoughts (such as Trent's approx timing advance - which agrees with the technical paper) everything seems to point to these outcomes: E10 is approximately 30% of the way to E85 for RON, timing and power. E50 is 2/3 the way to E85. I have an RB25 with a AX53B70 and S15 inejctors so they're small (440cc). Current tune is 11.5:1 @ WOT at 15psi, timing is 15 - 16°. For practical reasons I can fill a 20L jerry can to 21 litres of E-flex (E75). If I pour in 7L of E-flex before a 3/4 tank fill then I'll have E10 for 3 tanks before needing a refill. I'll see how it runs at first, and then look at adding 1 to 2° to the entire map. Shouldn't need to change the mixture as it's on the rich side for open loop, and closed loop will sort itself out. Not expecting miracles, but if I can notice a bit more response (prob only 5 or 6rwkw) then I'll be happy with it. It's no effort really and gives me something to play with. I guess I'll look to book it into EFI for some numbers, maybe.

Like you said DP it's interesting that the E50 and E85 has similar timing for lower compression but the highest compression scenario shows significantly higher timing allowable for the E85, along with higher power. At 9.2CR and 11.85CR the E85 makes only 1% more power, and is limited to the same ignition (or less) - at least at these low revs. However at 12.78CR the E85 makes 3% to 4% more power than E50 and runs the same timing at 1500rpm, 1° more at 2000rpm and 3° more timing at 2500rpm. I can only imagine that higher revs plus forced induction would show this gap to be even greater. I'm not sure how RON and MON are measured but it's clear that for high compression and higher revs the E85 clearly outperforms E50. For lower compression conditions they are equivalent - at least in this test.

Racks ends? Caster bushes? FYI: I was surprised the difference from doing all the wheel bolts up to the same torque. When I get new tyres, and the stupid places always rattle run them up, I get home and crack off the nuts and do them back up in the right order with a torque meter, to 100Nm. It's noticeable, but not the the extent you seem to be talking about.

I can vouch he is a good guy and these are cheap prices ! A few shops in Sydney wanted to charge me $1100+ without the Z32 ECU.

PM sent. I can pick-up if acceptable.

There are some small design differences but at that power level anything with the correct tolerances and half decent material strength (stock or better) will be fine. If those well known brands actually have the right dimensions for the RB then any will be fine (I tend not to trust the ability of Americans in general to measure metric) Both Scat and Nitto are world class brands with long reputations.

Also do you need them to bow out in the centre. Swift and Hyperco all have a noticeable bow-out in the centre. It's all part of a design to reduce the amount of material and mass and increasing usable range (free height - block height). It also has a side effect of improving clearance over things like caps on the top of the shock bodies, etc. IF you are getting a short spring 8" or less then the total usable length of the spring can start to be relevant. So you need to know block height, you want to stay away from block height or you run the risk of literally getting kicked off the road/track by a large bump or ripple strip. What: Height Rate ID

Here's my 2cents. I could be wrong but I always thought is was (injection time + latency) = pulse width. Therefore the 2 are very closely linked. Latency affects both start time, and length of time. Latency is a small number so it really only affects idle and low loads, on/off throttle response. Whether something is 0.8ms or 1.2ms will make a difference but it's not going to make a huge difference when you are running 25+% duty cycle (10% relative difference in mixture). Because you are correcting for it when you do a real world tune. Yes, voltage makes a significant difference to lag time/latency - I've attached a comparative table in this link. You might have already seen it. http://injector-reha...m/shop/lag.html I have found the idlein an RB25 to work well ovr a significant range ~ 12:1 up to 14:1, the sound changes, the revs and the number of stumbles, etc but anything in that range seems OK. Now obviously this range is an approximate as the absolute values could be wrong since getting the AFR of an idling engine is not accurate with a tailpipe reading. I have no idea if latency is all that repeatable between injectors operating in a vehicle. But I'd suspect there are significant differences between latency of the individual injectors in stalled in the rail during operation. I say this to imply that there might not massive gains trying to find an optimal latency time, rather just a sweet spot/range.

and Boom goes the dynamite. Ziex + wet + too much width + firm suspension + poor driver skills = Spin. It's SCIENCE !

Yeah I went out an bought an angle grinder, and a pack of 1.2mm cut-off wheels. It's good to have for the future. I got the 10mm GKTech spacers and 78mm wheel studs front and rear. Need to cut them down to 55mm.

Some things to note: 1) The odometers have ALL been clocked back TRUE 2) Insurance is a dog Insurance is the same price as other cars. My Mazda 6 (non-turbo, no mods) is more expensive in insure. 3) Car thieves LOVE these cars I'm not sure on that. 4) They've all been thrashed hard Most have had a moderately hard life. But how much can you thrash a car in daily driving ? 5 or 10% of the time? 5) They're old and hard to re-sell They're old? Genius. Yes, they are hard to re-sell, but not if you drop the price a grand or two. This person has a poor understand of how markets work. If they are hard to sell, then obviously the price is too high and you get it cheap, then you sell it cheap. IF you bought a $10k R33 in today's market and drove it for 2 years I reckon you'd get $8k back in 2014. Any other 300+ hp RWD, well handling car with climate control, ABS, power windows/mirror, you know of that will depreciate less than $1k per year? Please name it and I will buy one this weekend. 6) Cops will pull you over to try and give you a yellow sticker everywhere you go. I've owned my R33 for 6 years, it's been obviously modified the entire time (exhaust, lowered, wheels, etc). I've driven 130,000km in that time in Brisbane and Sydney. I've been pulled over once for random crap like that - I gave him a lesson in how to measure the height of cars, he said I had a bad attitude, I said maybe that's because my job is to measure stuff to 5 decimal places.....he let me go. Here's some REAL world adivce. I drive 3 different cars on occasion. A Holden Viva, a Mazda 6, and the R33. Plus lots of kms in hire cars around Australia. Here is some benefits: 1. The R33 is definitely the best one to drive in traffic because people let you in, they don't tail-gate, you get to reverse out of carparks without idiots walking behind you. You don't come around a corner and some idiot is standing on the road acting like you have to stop for them. 2. You can have some fun driving at normal speeds. I recommend good suspesion, not Teins or any lame superlow and super hard type. 3. Relative to other performance cars you are spending much much less money. 4. You can work on the car yourself and parts are quite easily available and reasonably priced. IF you want a performance car then your choices are slim. You can go S-chassis, or R-chassis. Or RX-7, Supra, etc. If you want Euro then you'll have to pay more. I wouldn't rate any FWD hot hatch as being in the same league. Right now, in 2012 we are in a golden age. Owning a performance car like a Skyline has NEVER been cheaper, and after all these S13, S14 and R32, R33, R34 get worn out, crashed, crushed and written off then the cheap performance car world will probably be over. The replacements will be the Z33, FT86 and euro-trash like the E90, GTi, Megane RS. Perhaps the Gti in manual might be fairly cheap to own if people buy their own parts from the UK, but it's nowhere near the performance of a decent Skyline.

Probably because I want longer wheel studs....at a guess. As for answering a question with a question.

I've got a set of 20 extended wheel studs and need them shortened. Anybody know a place that would shorten these ? I don't have an angle grinder to do it.

Because the DBA database is shit. It's what they decided/guessed goes on each car - not information from the manufacturer.

Check out this link. Compares R31 to R33 NA brakes, complete with a butt load of pics. http://wiki.r31skyli...e=R33_NA_Brakes That link says your brakes should be 280mm x 28mm (only slightly different to R31 which have 274 x 22mm). DBA says they are the same as the GTST and 296mm - which I doubt.

OK so what size are the rotors? Also: 1 - it's quite rare to have warped rotors. A far more common reason for seemingly warped rotors is uneven pad deposits on the rotor. 2 - What do you mean by "no compression" on the brakes? Have you bled the system (start at the rear and work your way forward - follow a guide on the internet), is there sufficient fluid, is the fluid leaking from either the master cylinder, vacuum assist or calipers? I wouldn't be surprised that an Australian company had no idea what brake sizes go on what models of Skyline. The catalogues are often incorrect for rarer models such as the NA R33.