simpletool

Nice wheels, I know this is closed. I tried to find out the design of the 18 x 9 +25, the website doesn't specify between the difference 9" rims but it appears all are flat spokes except the 10".

Just logged in to see if anyone has gotten the 7064 yet. Obviously not. OMG

Hey Stao - if my AX53B70 ever goes kaput do you think you could make something up for me with the housings off it? It looks like it could do with a couple more mm in the both the compressor and turbine wheels. So far it has been nothing but rock solid but I only use at 1bar max. Thought I'd ask as I wouldn't mind pushing it a bit more. I'm only looking for 250-260rwkw, I figure the turbine housing on this would be ideal for that power level.

BCPR6ES are pretty common, they're what I use and are always on the shelf at supercheap. My sets usually last 20,000km at least and that's with 15psi @ 11.5:1 AFR on 98RON. I put split fire coils in ages ago. I reckon 90% of RB25 owners on here will have replaced coils by now. This is the first set I left at 0.8mm and I reckon I should have taken then up to 1.0mm, my fuel economy has suffered a touch. A yep, replacing plugs does suck, especially if you've cracked an insulator and you don't notice and you have to clean it all up. There's been heaps of discussion about copper vs platinum vs iridium plugs a few years back. Most seem to go with coppers and if your tuning is decent and rings are OK then they should last OK like mine.

I'll go back to the original post: 1 - Yes, probably (to both parts of the question). You will lose a little bit of response but the total volume of the intake tubing and intercooler is what matters. the stock intercooler does flow well up to a point but you are probably at the point where the stock intercooler is a bit foa restriction. At 4 degree temps it doesn't sound like you need any help with cooling efficiency though. 2 - This is the contentious point about your power levels. What are the voltage readings from the AFMs? In any case they've been modified to have a lower slope (right??). I imagine you'd know if they were out of effective resolution (almost peaked out) - so you must be asking if they are a restriction? There might be some SLIGHT gain in dropping vacuum restriction to the compressor intake by swapping to 80mm Z32 AFMs but I wouldn't bet my house on a significant gain. Plus you've then got potential issues caused by low readings from the dual Z32 at low loads. 3 - I'd swap out the exhaust then do a dyno run. A 3" varex is likely to be noticeably less efficient at those boost and power levels than a 3.5" job. For smallish turbos running big boost the exhaust can make a big difference to their efficiency. Any drop in back pressure is multiplied by the turbine housing. So start here first, it's the easiest swap with the biggest potential gains. Full disclosure - I've NEVER worked on a GTR but go get a 3.5" exhaust. Like for like, they flow 35% more than 3".

Stock RB25 maps are around 43-44 degrees at light load aren't they ? If they are like Power FC maps then they are quite aggressive timing at full stock load.

From Guilt-Toys thread - he mentions setting cruise to 48 - 50 degrees with a RB30 on E85. See below: "Set the gizzmo to record and went for a drive, car felt more responsive then before, felt like boost was commin on quicker, played back the quick drive and the knock did not go over 14, which is quite low for my RB30DET, so up goes another 10 deg over the whole map, i adjusted the idle back down 20deg, went for a drive and she is more responsive again! I could not believe it! I was kinda thinking on the way home maybe the fuel i got is not e85, because i was thinking it cannot be that easy to convert over, untill i looked at the thermocouple EGT sensor and noticed exaust gas temps are down by a fair amount... ok it must be the real deal. I noticed the cruise ign maps were set to 55deg so i dropped them down to around 48 to 50 in some parts and came home."

It's a Nistune table - it's sideways compared to PFC. The loads numbers are proportional to AFM output (and completely configurable). I have no experience on E85 but I'd be surprised if you don't get benefit above 40 degree. It will help with transition from off-boost during gear changes - akin to having a slightly lighter flywheel. But yep, there is a point of negative return. E70/85 reaches MBT before knock - usually even under boost. And yes, 1 degree makes a bigger difference at low revs, since it's triple the relative difference between 12 and 13 than between 36 and 37.

Yeah Guilt-Toys E85 thread is awesome.

OK I finally read through the entire thread. Thought I might make some comments - but I'm not a professional tuner just a chemist who tunes his own car on 98. TIMING: Timing can be higher than 40 for light load (less than 5psi ABSOLUTE - ie 10psi vacuum) from 2800, 3200, 3600, 4000. My maps on 98ron are 43deg, so you should be 46 at least. See my map for 98ron. This is on a stock R25 with Apexi AX53B70 (very similar sized turbo to GTRS - just bigger turbine housing). Load 80 = 15psi boost (30psi absolute), 40 = transition/ zero boost. These light load areas may not sound like much but they help response between gears when short-shifting. Which you probably do a lot of with a small turbo on an RB25. If you are running 13psi then that is load 74. So 25degrees at full load is quite a bit of timing even for E85. The fuel economy is gained mostly from timing load 25 to 40 from 2000rpm up to 3600rpm. That is 90% of daily driving and every 1 degree of timing here will be reflected in fuel economy. I guess for E85 you should be at least 3 degrees over these numbers, probably 4 or 5. FUEL vs temp: You mentioned it would be interesting to see if temps were lower with E85 at the same lambda as 98. From everything I have read (not practised) that would be true for PRE-combustion. EGT might not show it ??? but pre-combustion should be lower. This is because you have a higher thermal mass of liquid entering the chamber for a given Lambda which will absorb more heat from cylinder walls and head. However since the power is greater for E85 then more heat is likely to be produced for a given lambda which means EGT might not show the difference. Just my thoughts on the subject. Also this higher liquid mass causing lower pre-combustion temps one of the reasons that lambda does not need to be as rich as 98RON for sustained high loads. ie. You shouldn't need to go below 0.82 lambda even for track work.

I've got an R33 insured with Just-cars - rating 1. I'm buying a 2009 Mazda 6 for daily duties. Does anybody know a place that will give a good price for both cars? The typical multi-car places won't do imports & Just cars want full-price for both cars.

You are either: out of clutch fluid, clutch needs adjustment at the pedal, slave needs bleeding OR you need a new clutch. Start a new thread if you want an answer.

I'd love to catch up sometimes with you young'uns. I've got uni every Thursday night so have never made it. Just put some RSRs on the R33 so heaps of grip if I happen to come across some corners. The car isn't being driven much atm as it need to visit the smash repairers for a minor front end bingle. Getting it prepped for Lakeside happy laps, then some proper laps. Got to put the braided lines on, rebuild the rear calipers (done the front), put new rear rotors on and new pads all round. Then WINNING.

An old thread abotu clutches for high horsepower seemed to point to the Nismo twin plate being the go - OR something custom made from NPC. Are you really making 700hp? There are significant downsides to choosing a non-sprung centre - they are that driving will suck and your clutch or tyres will wear out very quickly.

The spring lengths are different for different coilover brands. Also you can't just swap from a 14 to a 7 or 8 (which is what you'll probably want) as the damping will be WAY OFF. You'll also need to have them revalved unless the adjustment is separate for rebound and compression and works over a wide range. FWIW I put 10" springs in the front of mine, I'd guess yours are no longer than 8".

Probably 8kg Front, 6kg rear. I've driven on HR on an R33 and it was super responsive but also stupidly harsh and would jump over any ridges in the road. Not a fan. You should sell and if you want cheap coilovers get some from BR in something like 6 front, 4 rear.

The extreme stance crowd doesn't care about how a car drives or performs. As long as it looks cool to their mates. These guys don't really like cars, they like trends and fashion.

No they don't. Those are to suit R32, Z32 and S13/14/15. R33 is different as the calliper legs are to suit a 296mm, not 280mm.

VQ35DETT swap. Carbon doors, bonnet. Plastic guards. No glass. Yep, buy a new tow car.

This is a potential problem but people who come to club days and people who race cars are different people I would assume. The track day people have road registered cars, racing would mean unregistered so they have lots less to worry about and the cars are even cheaper. Anyway I just thought I'd throw it out there.

Forgive me if this idea has already been floated but now that Skylines are stupidly cheap do you think it would be possible to have a one make series? Obviously you'd need rules based around the obvious 4WD/2WD split plus the RB20/RB25 in-balance. Now I'm NOT saying I am in any position to get this happening, but has this been mooted before? I was just thinking there are a LOT of R32, R33 and R34 sitting around doing almost nothing. It would be nice to have many of them go out in style.

Why +34 on the front? You can easily go +30 with a 235/30/18, it won't hit the guard at all and it won't have poke. Ideally you'd want 9" +25 front with 235/40 (v little stretch) and 10" +35 rear (with 265/30/18). Or 9" +25 front and rear.

Ohhh snap. If I honestly knew of a good tuner who was convenient I would take my car there. Currently I do my own tuning, spanner work, servicing, the lot ! The customer service and attitude of every tuner I have met turns me off. Couldn't be bothered anymore and learnt to do it myself. Still a dyno with knock ears would be nice.

Anyone out for a cruise tonight? I've got uni until 8pm....but wouldn't mind running into some fellow Skyline owners on the northside after.

I don't really want to get rid of my R33 as it is set-up nicely for hacking the streets with pretty much everything I want. Yet it'd sell for fark all. eg. Quality stereo/speakers and 12" sub Bilstein shocks 5kg/mm front, 4.5kg/mm rear springs adjustable whiteline swaybars Apexi turbo Front Mount 3.5" exhaust Nistune 18" Rays wheels R32 GTR seats