murrayis

OK so an update, I have recently changed jobs and the benefit of of this is now I can afford to finish my RB24DET project once and for all!!!!! and it doesn't help that my boss has a 9 second datto ute. I have lined up a Nitto oil pump to replace the factory item which I modified with billet gears, and also looking to replace the Ku Engineering plenum with one of the following: Hypertune RB20 Forward facing $1700 Plazmaman RB20 forward facing $900 R.I.P.S RB20 forward facing item $1100 They are all nice items with their own benifits etc. I'm thinking of the size of the turbo (t04z), it would be nice to have a bit more torque lower down utilizing the factory runners so I was leaning towards the Plazmaman intake, but last time on the dyno it was producing roughly 400 ft lbs torque on 4.5psi and 200kw at the rears it's not too large a deal... or is it? Ignoring the prices what are your opinions? What would you choose? The Ku Engineering Item is a great product but I've always thought of completing this build using only genuine products with an Australian warranty & the R&D done by local companies. I look forward to hearing your thoughts. Cheers Cameron

Last time I had my car running I was doing fairly consistent 4.66 - 4.7 0 - 100 with 170kw.

lol Wheezy, i'll swap it with a $15k cash buffer

Wheezy, is that a nomination to do the work for me

Because Wheezy, Its a good excuse to upgrade the pump to a high flow pump but having second thoughts now as I don;t really want to have to pull the sump off while the engine is in the car.

Ah Poop... I forgot about that bit lol $200 of Royal Purpil I will need to replace.

Why would I need to remove the sump? the oil pump should slide on and off I would have thought, thou it has been a while since I put the engine together. lol I could but its leaking from the crank seal so wont help much.

So I was giving the engine a once over when I notised some oil on the timing belt which had been making it slip past the pullies taking the nice blue office the gates belt. On investigation it appears that the oil pump seal is leaking around the crank.... I have decided to play it safe and pull the oil pump off while the engine and sump are still in the car. Is this something difficult to do? I had a think about it and I am pretty sure I can pull it off without much effort while replacing the pump with a Nitto alternative. Any advice will be gladly accepted. Cheers Cameron.

Hi, By gears I mean I replaced the oil pump internals to billet items; (1) To reduce the chances of them failing at 9000rpm (2) They slightly increased the oil pressure without having issues of oil starvation (3) I was a tight arse at the time and couldn't afford the nitto pump I wanted Sorry I don't have any pictures of the oil pump internals.

JP, The specs on the first page are the pistons I have in the engine currently. As for the squirters they are the standard Rb20det items, The oil pump fitted up fine I changed the gears to some billet items, the only change to the water pump was to weld and redrill the e-longated hole on the water pump as it overhung the block water ways therefore leaks like a little b%$ch. Thanks for your comments. Cheers Cameron

Nothing so far, Have a 2005 Honda Accord Euro now as I start a new job on Monday. I'll keep this thread updated

Hmm 15mm is alot, I would be talking to a good engineer first. You could always remove the squirters? The only thing I know about using the 4agze piston is that they sit shy of the desk by 2 - 3 mm, does yours do this?

Hey, Simple, Get a notch machined in the pistons to give clearance to the squirters. You will find they don't clear because the piston pin height is different and the 4agze pistons sit 2mm shy of the deck. How did you get around this? Cheers Cameron

Hi, No we didn't have these issues, I guess they will only be fouling the squirers by a couple of mm, you could get some spacers machined up to space the squirters out a little more? Another way around is to notch the pistons to give sufficiant clearance to them. What pistons are you using? Cheers Cameron

Nah I wouldn't of thought so it's only done 30 mins on the dyno getting the base run in tune done on the old ECU I was hoping it was just blow by until the rings bed in.

Nooooooooooooo Deal Anyway seeing that the last video audio was pretty crappy, I took this one not long ago for everyone. Still sounds like a rb20 I think Anyone know why so much oil smoke would be coming out the breather and form the back of the engine :S has me a little concerned.

Just like this:

lol.... Give me $15,000 for the engine and I will throw in the car for free

Thought I might post a couple of happy snaps of the car that I just recovered of a damaged hard disk. Just Fired her up again, The HKS Tripple plate clutch at 600rpm sounds like a bucket of bolts floating around the bottom end....

Hi, To answer your questions: 1) It will work just fine, you will need a retune because of the increase in size and Cam's etc 2) Not really sure why they wouldn't go all the way to 2438cc's If they are changing the Rods, slugs and crank it's something you would have to ask them. Cheers Cameron

lol Thanks for your support. Not so on Topic, I did up until a few weeks ago before it took a trip to the metal scrappers... Sorry

I Hate Tuners.... I spent 20 minutes yesterday trying to get it started, He sat in it turned the key and it fired up instantly!!! And Yes the timing belt is a little too tight, Will have to back it off a tad. Thanks again bubba for the Map.

Have not had a chance to try it yet, Been fighting a XenServer all morning

Thanks for the lend of the Map Bubba i'll give it a try in the morning and see how I go.

Cheers, Tuner Is calling in tomorrow afternoon so hopefully we can get it started all goign to plan.