murrayis

It isn't really running at the moment, in the process of putting a Haltech ECU in the car so then will need to be tuned again. Doo Doo, send through his details if you like will save alot of time once I measure what it currently has and know what I need.

Cheers Trent.

Cheers Trent, I compared these numbers to the RB26 workshop manual and it would sujest the tighter of the two is the EX also. Now to find a supplier of shims in QLD. Cheers Cameron

Hi, Wanting to check the valve lash on my stroked rb20, but before I go measure it all would like to try find what the ideal amount of clearance is. I am running TOMEI 270 9.25mm Cams with TOMEI Solid Lifters and from memory 2.6mm shims. I am not sure if these are the correct figures: Valve Clearance (Cold) IN - 0.45mm EX - 0.38mm The main reason for checking this is they sound a little tappy so would like to be safe rather than sorry before I go for the final tune and 8500rpm. Regards Cameron

From memory when I looked at using the 4agze pistons the math said they would sit 4mm shy of the deck.

Hi, I am chasing a PnP loom for a Haltech e11v2 for my HCR32. If anyone has one up for sale please shoot me a PM. Regards Cameron

Hi, I am chasing a PnP loom for a Haltech ellv2 for my HCR32. If anyone has one up for sale please shoot me a PM. Regards Cameron

Am running one in mine and have no issues with the water temps staying around 84 degrees

Hi, I have built a rb24det, using a rb26 crank & Rods and 83mm custom ROSS Pistons. I am not sure about using a rb25 crank, If you use 82mm pistons it will come out to a 2.2ltr.

I have them in my build, havent had any problems with this so far but they have only seen 3 - 4 hours of dyno time. Went into the pump without any issues, oil pressure comes straight upto the peak. Can't say anymore... Cameron.

Heres a couple of larger images from Ben's video Images EDIT: I also managed to convert the video for you: Video

Wheezy, What has Jack From Ku Engineering said about this? I had a crack in my first one and he shipped out the replacemenet within a day or 2. There new rb20 manifolds replace the entire item.

Oh ok, Best bet is to look on the cable for any serial numbers then give them a google if not jsut buy a new cable you can pick them up between $15 and $60

Umm... You dont need a drive for the adaptronic you need the driver for the USB to serial cable. The driver depends on what brad cable you bought. What adaptronic ECU do you have? Cameron

No lol If I knew it was that easy I would of fixed it while it was still on the dyno Grrrr.

I think I have nutted it out... I changed the plugs and away she went after changing Ignitors and coils to my spares all it was was $17 worth of spark plugs!

SPent a little time today trying to work out why it wont run, All injectors fire and all sparkplugs spark so not sure whats going on with it :S

Kyle, I was thinking something along those lines but for the lower hose there isnt the room to do so so I still am stuck with the problem

AD4M, Thanks for that any links to suppliers who stock it? Quick Update - Found the oil leak.... Appears the oil filter isnt done up quite enough so when the car gets dropped off this arvo I'll fix that up, Then I just have to get a replacement CAS and see if that resolves the problem with it not running. Cameron.

Once I get the car back I dont think I will have any choice but take the gate off and see what Enzed and Pirtek can do. Roy, Yea gate cap is billet. I spoke to NYTSKY who has the same gate he said he just used normal silicon but I assume his gate is mounted a tad further away from the main heat source.

Roy the problem with where the gate sits is there no room around the fittings as you can see in the pic below which you can see where the lines liquified.

The problem with that Roy is the WG takes a M5 brass fitting and I cannot find anything other than those fittings to suite it.

Well I jsut got home from spending the morning on the dyno, Cars still at the dyno Car has a slight oil leak which I will need to get fixed up during the week, but it developed a problem about 2 hrs into the tune where it would idle but not rev. Pretty much as soon as u touch the throttle it cuts out and just stops.... weird thing is if u start it and push the pedal straight away and get it over 3500 it will run fine while not at idle :S tuner said he has seen similar with a dodgy CAS, Can anyone shed some light on what could be causing this? or if they have had this problem before and came across the fix? Car was making 143kw and 390nm limited to 7000rpm which is all we could push it due to the fact the airlines to the wastegate liquified causing the gate to hold steady at 4.5psi woooooooooo so the hightemp airlines arent so Hightemp so I will have to source a better solution before we can try again. Cheers Cameron

Mine sits when cold are 118psi and when warm driving along about 45 - 50 psi.

I would allow 3 - 5 ft per runner remember you need to overlap each time around. When I did mine I didnt get much change out of a 50ft roll of 1inch wide wrap.