murrayis

If you use msn his email address is: [email protected] and his name is Jack, I bought my rb20 intake firstcly with him he also supplied me with a rb26 fuel rail and custom adapters to suite the rb20 mounts. Nice guy pleasure to deal with

I think andy mentioned it would be around the $1500 - $1600 mark.

It's not due out until September or so I thought last time I spoke to Andy.

Ah yes.. couldnt see it in that last pic.

I thought the measuring wheel they use is 98mm? last itme I got done for it the wheel had stamped on it 98mm and 100mm is legal.

Paul, You don't run the lil plate that sits behind the sprocket on the crank to stop the belt moving backwards?

Jaonson... Cameron here brads mate. This reminds me of something that happened to my brother in his "civic" the other week, the cop was off duty and saw my brother come down the hill from caltex and turn left into horizon drive and come up behind him so the next day I was working from home and looking out the window at the time and saw the Red highway cop car pull up out the front... just at the time I hear my mother yell out "Cameron what have you done this time!" Cop walks up the driveway and asks if my brother was hoem and I explained he was at work, he explained why he was looking for him etc. he wanted to check his car for the height of his car... things I see wrong with this was... his car is registered under my fathers name not his hes not on it... yet he asked for by name :S Cop preceeded to goto his worksite, he works for leightons and measure his car to fine him $100 and 1 point but didnt make him goto court over it the car was 85mm due to the exhaust coming off its hanger. Goodluck with the car J,

Of course... rite down to the valve seat. intake is port matched also.. no problems with air speed at 30psi

Heres a picture of the intake port job we did on my rb20head to flow for the rb24 build I can't get one of the exhaust because the manifold is urrently attached too it.

I wish my block looked shiny like that!

If I remember tomorrow I will post up some pics of how much we ported the standard rb20 head out for my build

Very nice!

Yea I indeed do have a stroked rb20 83mm bore Rb26 crank and rb26 rods take it too 2438cc

Paul, I ened up with 2.2 thou clearence on the mains and bigends. Does this sound about rite? previous we had it at 1.5thou

Thanks Paul, I'll go re-torque them. (EDIT) Done & Done

Thanks anyway, The head is already bolted down and studs have 30w on them. I used the last of my molly lube on the ARP rod bolts.

Thanks Paul, If I don't have any molly lube and use 30w oil what do you think bump it upto 95ft/lbs?

I have been looking over my figures for the head bolts of what I had written down a year or so ago, can somsone confirm these for me. 1. Tighten to 22 ft/lb 2. Tighten to 80 ft/lb 3. Loosen bolts completely to 0 ft/lbs 4. Tighten bolts to 22 ft/lbs 5. Turn bolts 85-90 degrees clockwise with an angle wrench, or tighten to 76-83 ft/lbs when torque wrench is used. From looking over the nissan manual these appear to be the rb26 standard torque settings, and ARP recommeneds 109ft/lbs as the final figure is this tru for the rb20 also? I am using ARP studs for the head.

lol Thanks... its been 2 years in the making so no point giving up on it now.. Yea I put it down to us increasing the oil clearance this time by another ½ a thou, and the fact when I tried it last time it was after It had spun a big end and a main bearing. Anyway, I spent today doing as much as I could in the 36 degree heat! I spent a good 2 hours cleaning out the Sump and Head, I couldnt believe the size of the bits of bearing the I got out of the sump, I ended up filling it with water and putting a few welding magnets in the water to pickup all the small particls and large flakes a bearing. The head took the most time as I didnt have the tools at home to remove the valves so it flushed it slowly cleainng out all the oil and any small traces of bearing I could find... which was only 1 or 2 specks. I installed the Sump, Oil pump, Rear Main Seal, Exhaust manifold, Turbo and the Head today. I held off with the water pump due to a couple of the bolts looking a little worse for wear I shall pickup some replacments from nissan this week. Anyway heres a couple of picctures of where I am upto.

Thanks for the comments. The old bearing have all been tossed out, We expect it was end float and part of the bearing rubbing on the back of the oil pump as it went past it. To fix it up from the misshap I have had number 1 rod Resized 2½ thou, replaced the crank, had it machines to the correct clearences for what we want to rev it too and installed a new set of ACL Race series rb26 bearings for both mains and big ends.

Quick Update - Had some time today to start assembling the block, Spent 2½ hours this morning cleaning the block with a toothbrush and 4 ltrs of part cleaner. Installed the new ACL bearings lubbed them up nicely installed the crank and torqued the cradle down nicely.... moves so smoothly compared to the other one you needed a spanner to turn the crank. Also cleaned up the pistons and installed and torqued them down to spec. Hopefully tomorrow I will get time to install the pumps and sump then its just a matter of bolting the head back on and back to the dyno we go. I'll post some pics up tomorrow afternoon after I'm done with it.

What'd they say about driving while putting away that many pills?

Norway really like their A.......

I'll ask... but what in the world caused a Twisted Testicle?

Get well soon Paul... he must of seen the power curve!