murrayis

Yea Dave go port D which they say to use if the boost is spiking. Also try the larger diameter Valve seat so it flows more

Bring on the Graphs & vids

You got that rite, you need a degree to work out which springs to use, which preload springs to use, what port combination to use and then what size valve surface to use large or small

We are both using the most complex Wastegate I have seen before. EDIT: Should of mentioned its a Synapse Engineering 50mm

Mine was lifting on port D producing 6psi on the t04z I would think it would be 10psi ish... And from what I know port D should produce a higher boost level.

lol Dave that M5 hole I think it is, is to prevent overboosting you have to seal it up if your using a EBC. Doesnt say in the manual but it does on the website in their forum. For those intrested: http://synapseengineering.com/smf/index.php?topic=97.0

Just remove the plugs and coil and the CAS plug no need to injectors. The engine will crank nice and fast... well should and speed in which would atomize any fuel and come out with the air being compressed out the spark plug hole.

Thats a Serious answer.... Without the CAS signal it doesnt know when to fire the spark and fuel so they wont

Nah I got it shipped down from Ray Hall. and yes had the .70a/r front on it. NYTSKY: Which ports were you using? On mine I have ports A & B t'd together and then port D to the positive pressure side of things. Which spring were you using and how much preload? With mine It was cracking at 5 - 6 psi with the boost controller unplugged I think mine has the green spring in it. I agree but they are a complicated WG

Not tru, I bought a Genuine Garret GT3076R and the front cover wasn't slotted.

yea thats the one. It would appear I need one with 20mm smaller diameter.

Yep I plan on pulling it apart and checking it out, the pump is a brand new unit less than 15 k's on it so it should be fine, but I dont know why the crank would of grazed the back side of it :S

Huddy, The clutch I have is a Tripple Plate. Thrust bearing? or the bit that pushs against the centre of the clutch to take the pressure off it? throwout Bearing i think its called? Thanks.

Well I need some Advice from all the knowledgeable people on SAU, I have no idea what would cause the following which I found today when I had a chance to finish pulling the block apart: Oil pump: Thrust bearing: Another Issue I can see if with the clutch, Is there smaller throwout bearings for the GTR box? as I can see its not wearing in the same position as it previously was.

Dam thats a bad crack! even the support is cracked.. Yes the tuner should of aborted as soon as it wouldnt build boost etc. how long did he try tune it for?

I'm no tuner but... Looking at the boost curve I can say its not the tuner thats the problem. Take the manifold to any engineering shop and get them to face the manifold if its leaking as much as you say its probly out by 1 - 2mm from being welded and not bolted down uring the process.

My eyes! My Beautiful Eyes!

Just get the exchaust manifold machined! exhaust putty etc. wont last too long in there.

Well just got the number 1 rod back from Bryants Engineering in Sumner Park from being resized, they had to take 2½ thou or 0.063mm off it. I am hopefully picking up a R33 GTR crank this weekend. So the plan is to have it back together and in the car running before March

Thanks Huddy What was the compression ratio on yours? mines around 8.2:1 also whats the capacity on a Tomei 2.4? 23XXcc?? mines using 83mm piston instead of 82mm and sitting arodun the 2438cc

Dam, Very nice work!

yea mine was making 200kw on 5psi after 30 mins on the dyno playing with the inital fuel map no timing in it with a t04z got any dyno sheets you can send me or info on the build?

don't they automaticly save the dyno runs in the clients folders when the runs complete?

Tried changing the spark plugs?

hmm I have been thinking alot of this in the last few weeks... I do want to finish it it just plays on mine mind what caused it... the only thing we know of that was wrong was the timing belt tightened itself up to the point I couldnt twist it by hand I know this cause the camshaft to dig in but could it have caused the crank to twist that little bit to dig into the bearings... I just don't know.. I have been looking for a r33 GTR crank for a few weeks even looked at new items from Nissan who told me they would have to get one from Japan and couldnt give me a price until it got here... which sounded very unusual. Keep the comments coming they are all helping me decide what path to go down. The engine builder has been calling me a pussy all night for even considering abandoning the project this far into it... To give you an idea of the damage: This isnt a thrust bearing: