murrayis

300kw was my "if its over than i'm happy" number and I am at the point where I want somethign that is goign to be reliable if I change jobs and loose the company car and have to drive it daily.

Rb26 will be 300kw max, 350 - 400kw was for the rb24 with all the goods.

Well.... As a few of you are aware on the past 26 months I have been building a stroked rb20 making it 2438cc. On the 10th of january this year it was all set to be put on the dyno and the run in tune done, 45 minutes into the tune 5psi dialed in second full pull to the limit of 6500rpm whole heap of oil smoke poured out of the breathers and a bad tick developed on the down rev. We stopped the tune straight away and pulled the car off the dyno and took it back home and pulled the engine down to find 2 bearings and literaly destroyed themselfs...The Cause.... Still unknown.. Here I am now... Stuck with the choice... Should I spend $2000 to fix it and try again or should I part it off and cut my losses and just buy a 25 or 26 and be done with it and settle down? Of course my minds leaning towards selling it all because it has been such a effort tracking down all the parts from Japan and the USA nad I dont know if I could do it again to repair it, I have spent the last 2 + years revolving around this build everything has been about it, and I always told myself if something went wrong that would be it I would stop there! Tough times ahead with money etc. and having to purchase a house in the next 12 months are just clouding my head and I'm not sure what I should do, So I thought I would come on SAU where I have spent much of my time reading and askign questions to see what you would do if you were in the same boat? If I did part out the engine I would be selling things like the following: 6Boost rb20/25 T4 Split Manifold RB20 Forward Facing Intake Ported rb20 Head Tomei 272 9.25mm IN & EX Tomei Lifters Tomei Shims Tomei Valve Springs TOMEI Head gasket 83mm 1.5mm Spitfire Rb20 Coilpacks Garrett T04Z .86 Rear 3500k's BMI 80mm Throttle Body Synapse 50mm Wastegate Turbosmart 50mm BOV HKS Tripple Plate Clutch Sard RB26 Fuel Fail & Braided lines Sard 650cc Injectors Sard FPR Nissan RB26 Oil pump N1 Water pump 83mm ROSS pistons & rings Eagle rb26 Rods 21mm bush HKS Oil cooler 52mm Alloy Radiator & thermos HKS Cam Gears New Gates Timing Belt Ross Balancer Rb24 Block Then just drop in a RB26DETT and be done with it and be able to drive the car again. But If I chose not to part it off and replace the damaged items and hope it didnt do it again would be able to be hopefully a reliable 350kw unique setup. So what would you do? Cameron.

As the title says I am looking for a good condition r33 gtr crankshaft to replace my damaged unit. I'm in brisbane but willing to pay for the postage if the price is rite. Cameron

that could be noisey pistons with alot of clearence, and when they heat up expand and they stop ratteling...

Well, We spoke to Liddles Head Shop yesterday regarding this, AS he's who I turned to to check the cam shafts over. And he seemed to think that the main bearing would of let go due to the timing belt becomming so tight and putting too much force on the top bearing surface as the bottom surface on the number 1 main bearing is pretty much fine all the damage is mainly to the top side. Main bearing 1 and the big end bearing on number 1 are the only bearings that are rooted. We did inspect the pistons and rings and they all look perfect the rings look like they were running in nicely! We only going as far through the tune doing the base fuel tune/fuel pressure adjustment and 2 first full runs to 6500rpm held a nice 11 - 11.5 Ignition timing hadn't really been touched and there was no sign of detination. Tomorrow we are goign to be re-checking the tollerances etc to make sure all that was spot on but we double and tripple checked it before it all went together. The Oil journal is all clear no blockagepouded some oil down there and flowed through without any problems. Cheers Cameron

No damage to the heads its perfect. thank god! Bore is fine in all 6 Oil pumps fine, so just need a crank and bearings and get the number 1 rod checked over. Dirt Do you know if mark would have any R33 rb26 cranks he would sell? Cameron

Whats it like to drive? does it cough and splutter at all?

Bubba, Nah I want to stick with the Rb24... Everyone is doing 25/30's etc got to be different Cameron

Yea sussing out a R33 GTR crank, what would you think a used 33 crank would be worth? I am going to give Mark at godzilla a call tomorrow see if he has any hes willing to part with.

Well I dont have much to say but yea the pictures will Explain it. Have to replace: - Crank - Bearings - Maybe 1 rod, should be fine hopefully If anyone know anyone who works for nissan and can get me a R33 GTR crank at a good price and they let me know, it would be greatly appreciated. Cameron

Roy, Oil pressure was perfect and stable. We pulled the head of this afternoon and this confirmed my nightmares for the last couple of weeks.... Number 1 has Hit the Head, We pushed on each piston and when we got to number one it moved down a mm or 2 :-( So we will be pulling the res of the motor out tomorrow to strip it down and see what in the world went wrong, But its sounds like the little end thats kuput

Well, I finally got the top of the Head back together, and strted the car... Guess what the sounds still there. I am scratching my head to what it could be! Its running fine, Revs fine, No smoke no missing nothing out the breathers just a god awful tapping sound coming fro mthe top of the engine. I recorded a lil vid with the sound, be aware some of the noise is the clutch shaking from the low idle so I will post that as soon as its uploaded. http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=WcZGD8DdbGE

Call Ross, I spoke to them told them what I had and they hooked me up $565 + $25 for overnight

Heres the 6Boost Manifold kyle made for my rb20

Well I jsut got the cams back $25 later there both nice and straight and freshly polished

The best thing I got from Nissan was the intake manifold gasket I almost laughed when he said it was $2.75

So I just found out lol All of them bar 1 washer they have in stock and can pick them up at 2pm grand total a whopping budget crusher $14.50 most expensive part was a washer at $5 even the stud was $2.50 Cheers

Hmm may have to fire up FAST and order some parts. Thanks Fellas!

Yep not taking the risk, thats why I am replacing the idler. tensioner and belt, also thinking of changing form a stud to bolt arrangment for the two. Have you seen this sort of thing before Mr. Dirt? Cameron.

Hi, I just dropped the cams off to the engineering shop $20 to polish them up and check the runout. I said to him the cam started to bind up and his first reaction was "you using one of those blue gates belts?" he said hes seen heaps of these that when the head warms up and expands slightly the belt doesnt stretch and pulls the cam into the bucket causing too much heat and binds up, a few times has snapped the cam shafts. Cameron.

ok thanks, I will give Briant engineering a call tomorrow. hopefully the head wont need any work i only cleaned up the crap that was bashed into the surface to give you an idea i used 1200 wet and dry for about 5 mins to get it back to that last picture. Cameron

Have a new Gates belt that should arrive tomorrow. Oil pump is a band new Nissan Rb26 Item. Not sure I know what you mean by runout? and if its what I think it is would you know anyone in Brisbane who would perform this? Cheers Cameron

thanks for the positive words I Just finished cleaning up the cam bucket Need opinions on it. Cameron.

New Gates belt, near new idler and tensioner were form my last engine and only did 5000k'swith them not new bolts but they will be I am picking up new Tensioner and Idler this afternoon and tossing up the idea of a new timing belt also. Do you recommend a new stud and nut or replace them both with HT bolts?