murrayis

They do indeed, being very limited but http://ku-engineering.net/ also try Jack on MSN : [email protected]

Yea? I am planning on running my build off it ? why would you not recommend it? Yes I had a connector issue unplugging and reseating fixed it but.

What the 4door or the pink silvia? Also whats qwik fix? or fix qwik? seen the fan all over town and always wondered what you did?

i've had mine for over 2½ years never had a problem with it, and i know a handful of people who have had them longer who havent had any issues

My HKS Tripple has a solid center and i am not looking forward to that.. wish i went the sprung center now.

I'm In Westlake part of the western suburbs about 15 mins down the centenary Highway from the city, and theres heaps of imports in the area theres aleast 10 I see every morning driving to work before I even get to the highway. Most of them seem to be at a certain menebers place with a 4door and a pink silvia

On another Note, A few changes have to be made before I goto the Dyno to get it tuned. 1) I need to lower the gearbox as I think its jutting the gearbox tunning somewhere when the engines running 2) Exhaust need to be lowered 20 mm at the front and a side effect of lowering the gearbox 10mm will bring it in striking distance of the tailshaft. Alos how do you seal a vband dump pipe? Mine leaks in the gap on the Clamp?

Yea that shouldn't be a problem. All the info I have on them is on the previous page so that should be enough info for you to call them and tell them what you want Just remember AUS vs USD atm isnt that great might be worth trying ACL etc. see if they can make a custom set up for you. Seems to be fairly good, only comment I had for the plenum was the intake runners at the face of the plenum are a tad small but nothing and hour or two on a dremel didn't fix for mine Inside was nice and smooth no visible defects, just a bit of cleaning on the outside to remove the metal polish. Fitted past the clutch master thought much of a drama, I spoke to Jack alot from Ku Engineering he was very helpful with dimentions etc so I knew it was going to fit.

It really works lol I havent riven mine yet but up on the stands the wheels spin

Hmm I can't wait to hit high boost of 28psi I hope you get yours back on the road by the end of the year Dave. After reading about your belt I didnt wait to change the tension on mine got straight too it, I'm using the same belt

I used a rb26 water pump on mine but rememebr to fill in the enlongated hole at the top as on a rb20 it leaks

Hmm, I was told by them to link A&B together to use As the top feed back to the acuator and then c or d as the bottom feed back to the acuator What sort of base boost level were u getting? I am hoping to run 14psi, 20psi and 28psi with my new build

lol the ring that goes between the wastegate and manifold is copper... but the little brass air fittings I cannot find, as to use it with a AVCR etc. you need to link A and B ports together and seal the top hole to act as the top of the WG and then use C or D for the lower depending onf the boost level required But with the Aud $ the way ti is getting a little brass fitting from Synapse will cost around $40 after conversion and shipping costs for somethign so small.

Ooow I have a Synchronic 50mm Wastegate also, Let me know if you find somewhere local to get the brass fittings from I can't find anyone here in brisbane who has them.

I bought a Ku Engineering plenum, I was surprised how little effort it too to fit up, it cleared the clutch master and only had to make a small modification to the water lines under the plenum. Great price also, got the plenum and a Sard rb26 fuel rail including mounting brackets for a little over $800 Fedex'd

They were all clicking... One step ahead of you there all being flow tested and cleaned today can't risk it jamming up.

can u hear the injectors ticking?

Well I spent a good part of today checkeing all the electrical connections and cables in my car to do with the coils and injectors it all turned out fine, but came across the number 3 injector wasn;t firing where in previous tests it was. Isolated the injector and disconnected all the coils so no chance of blowing myself up, i took the injector out to see if it was blocked which it wasnt put 12v directly onto it... nothing gave it a quick tap with a screwdriver and tried 12v again and ot mu surprise it clicked gave it 10 mins and tried it again and it clicked. So I installed it back into the fuel rail adjusted the tension on the timing belt while I was in there, also found the steel plate behind the crank sproket was rubbing on the oil pump so pressed that a bit flatter so it cleared the pump and put all the timing belt and balancer back in. Fired her up after a nice BANG! that my poor puppy is still trying to recover from, still have to adjust the idle a tad as its still at 2000rpm. I recorded a lil vid of the sound of it sitting at 2k idling

Do you know if you can get E85 in brisbane?

There "Race" track looks nothing more than a taxi way at a local airport for 2 seater planes! Bring on Andrew and the ignition team for a weekly show!

Ok well, Seem to have found the problem being the number 3 injector... I took it out because it wasnt functioning.. put 12v on it no clicks... tapped it a few times tried 12v again and it started to click again. Hopefully when I put it back together it all works fingers crossed

YEs I have seen this happen before. Get a new Exhaust cam shaft unless its a aftermarket one a rb26 or rb25 Exhaust cam should be easy to get shipped too you. If this is the case are you 100% sure you got the CAS in the correct place? the last time I saw this exact same issue when the key snapped off u could turn it over all day and nothing would happen we replaced the cam lines the cas up correct and fired instantly

Yep have done that, was our first idea that it would have to be a loose wire/connection we spent a good 20 mins figgling wires

Yes, This is why I don't know why its not firing... They all sparked yet when you run the engine number 3 doesn't fire this is my problem. Understood that if the coilpack didnt make spark to try another and see if it sparks, but what happeneds if it does spark? and changing to another coilpack still provided the same spark yet when its all on the engine it doesnt fire it?

And to add, We have switched the coilpacks around and the problem stay on number 3, we have also switched the injectors around. I have read countless threads where Coilpacks are stuffed or sparkplugs are fouled up.. This case is different, I have even tried 3 sets of brand new spark plugs, 2 sets of coppers and 1 set of iridium's We tested all the coilpacks at once but earthing them all along the top of a peice of steel earthed ot the car all of them fired when rotating the CAS, we did similar with the injectors only plugging one in at a time and spinning the CAS they all make the clicking sound when they fire. I wouldn't of made a new thread if this was like the "squillion other thread" The things I am yet to try is a different ignitor and different harness but have tested continuity from the ecu harness to the engine bay and all check out fine even while jiggling the harness looking for loose or broken connections.