murrayis

I constructed my own intake plenum for my rb24 build but don't have a DC TIG so i cannot weld it myself. I would love to give the job to a SAU member as I am willing to pay for it to be done. I have previously given it to a welding shop who cocked it up totaly so having to remake half of it, So second time around I want somsone in the SAU community who has a passion for Cars and can weld Alloy Let me know if you can be of some assistance. Regards Cameron

Just wasnt sure which side of the car etc. Currently have a few broken fingers so dont want to spend time jacking one side of the up and it being the incorrect side etc. Just wanting to make it easy for myself and not stuffing around.

I decided today to inst my surge tank setup, but got stuck when i had to setup the main feed and fuel return lines as they disapear under the boot floor and I am unsure where they go next. Where do the standard lines go from rubber hose to the solid steel tubes to the front of the car? and what would be the best plan of attack to get at them ? If anyone has a picture that would be of great assistance also. Regards Cameron

I took mine out to 83mm, mechanic told me the CR should be wne done around the 7.9:1 to 8:1 he couldn't remember. I am still waiting on an email back from ROSS with the piston specs.

Hmm Billet.... I shall get in contact with him. Even if I get the cad drawings off him and add the measurements in myself and get it cnc'd up myself lol this is the only thing holding me back from finishing my build

Hi Dan, I shall get in contact with Shanef regardining this. I know Sard used to make one for the rb20 but unsure if they still do, I have contacted Sard and waiting on a reply from them. Cheers Cameron

Hi, I am trying to track down a aftermarket fuel rail for my rb24det build, I have the SARD 63562 650cc injectors but having a hard time trying to find a fuel rail to suit. I did see a Sard rail for sale on ebay but missed it, Does anyone know of another fuel rail that would suite this application Cheers in advance.

Ok i dug up an email from ROSS regarding the ring specs, I have emailed them to get a copy of the specs for the pistons. RINGS: Bore size is 3.270” Ring grooves are 1.2 mm, 1.5mm, 4.75mm radial depths are .134”, .144”, .180” Regards Cameron

Mine are the complete oppostie to yours, inverted by 2mm so the domes resessed into the piston, not sure on the term. I don't have the spec sheet any more sorry, And i can't get to the numberon the bottom of the piston to get the info again from ROSS. But my oil ring is 4.25mm in height from memory. Sorry I can't be much assistance i will try get the info from my mechanic.

Hi Reuben, As far as i'm aware there is an updated crank collar on the crank shaft, But I am using a stock rb26 oil pump which will be heaps of oil flow for the rb20head. My cams at TOMEI 270 IN & EX 9.25mm lift made for the rb20, I also paired them with TOMEI solid lifters and 2.6 Shims. As for the valve guides they are custom guides made by a local engine machine shop. Cheers

Yea have thought of a few things, a beie should fit under there, have to jack the back of the bonnet up 3 or 4 mm as i didnt put the washer back under the hinges to bring it up level with the guards. I need to get some flame/heat wrap to put on the under side of the bonnet, any idea where i get it?

Ok Decided to bite the bullet and put the engine back in the car with the turbo on it to see if it clear... Lets jsut say its pretty dam close. And don't you hate it when you pull your bonnet out of storage and after rapping it in a doona you find this!!

Give Adaptronic a try, I run one on my RB20 and its so easy to use and cheap and aussie made www.adaptronic.com.au

If it idles fine and under load sounds like a wrx could be the plugs fould up, if it does it at ifle leave it idling and unplug the coilpacks 1 by 1 and wait for the ones that make no difference to the sound and their usualy the dead ones.

Thanks for that AD4M, I will have to put it back in the car and measure it,and put the bonnet back on to see if it will fix. would be interesting too see by how much your strut brace misses your bonnet.

Thanks AD4M

AD4M, could you do me a favour and measure the distance from the top of the engine bolt hole i nthe mount to the highest point on the turbo to give me some figures. cheers Cameron

yea have been thinking about that, then just die grind the angel onto it, figured it would only save me 15mm or so

rb24 is the same sized block as a stock rb20, jsut different rods, pistons and crank

The problem with that is it wont clear the strut tower, its about 30mm higher than the manifold because theres an adapter on the manifold to go from t3 to t4

I have 18's on my 32 gtst 35 offset with 265 40's on the rear and 235 35's on the front don't have a pic sorry. Yea rears scrub even with the guards rolled wouldnt recommend more than 255's

Its looking like there will be about a 3cm gap between the turbo and the bonnet, having a ADR approved bonnet i'm not just going to go chop it up

Where can I get that flame guard wrap or sheet to wrap the oil and water lines and plus on the underside of the bonnet

I won't be cutting any holes in the bonnet, Can somsone measure the distance from the bolt in the passenger side engine mount to the under side of the bonnet if possible? Out of curiousity whats the legalities of having the turbo half way through the bonnet lol