murrayis

Hopefully it will fit, the botten is a Fibreglass job so will definetly have to put a deanie on the turbo and some sort of heat proofing on the underside of the bonnet, where do i get that "flame guard" tape from? or wrap?

yep, was thinking of doing that. Also was going to put some sort of flame/heat retardent underneath the bonnet and put a beanie on it.

Well... I just bolted my stainless manifold onto my rb24DET then bolted my Garrett T04Z ontop of that... But I don't know if its going to fit under the bonnet? What do you think? I don't have an engine in the car at the moment or a bonnet on it to measure it, but from the top side of the hole in the engine mount to the top of the turbo is 470mm or 47cm's Advice Please....

Yes but a rb24 will rev to 9500RPM

theres alot more coin in a rb24 build than buying another rb20 trust me In the middle of a rb24 build myself

They look near identical from the pictures.. GCG TuneAgent They look fairly similar, but probly a copy of the GCG one.

Take alook at TuneAgent manifold, there the same as the GCG ones.

Gary, There is now a bolt in that hole, when we put the pump on 5 mins before the photo we had lost the bolt so had to dig another one up so put it back in the hole. Cameron

Thanks for the Gary, Have filled it up with silicone, Its a rb26 n1 Pump which looked the same as the one I got off my original rb20, but filled it up anyway as it looked a lil suspect. Cameron

Yea thought about the lag but its goign to rev to 9500rpm and is built for it. We are looking at running 29 - 30psi thought it on the dyno. Anyone know any good machine shops in Western subs brisbane need to machine flat the exhaust manifold flange as its warped a bit from welding it.

had a bit of spare time on the weekend during the cr4py wheather so polished the t04z comp housing will probly get it proffesionly done, but was worth a go

An update you want, An update you shall get! The engines together and sitting in my car port, working on gearbox, plenum, and exhaust manifold. I decided to give it a crack at making my own exhaust manifold before I bought a 6Boost job from Kyle. Thanks Kyle for the flanges and a few pointer's, be nice its my first time TIG welding Also have changed the turbo to a Garrett T04Z .84 rear split pulse, And installed new Tappered Lugs into the front and back of the block. Waiting on All new sump, rear main seal and rocker cover bolts, should arrive next week.

have already chopped the transfer case off

:s wrong gear i am talking about the gear on the shaft in the gearbox at the back of it, its heated and then pressed on...

Theres no circlip on my speedo cog :S

yea i need one also, have finished my merge collector just need the flange now to do the rest

yea love it, watch it most days while at work. bowling ball was nice getting it to lock in

You have a PM

Item: Garret GT3076r .63 rear Location: Brisbane Website: Garrett Turbo Item Condition: 99% Brand New, Has run for a maximum of 20 minutes on idle while setting up dump pipe and wastegate looking for exhuast leaks Reason for Selling: Simply its not big enough, I bought it when my engine build was going to be basic, and have since changed every engine component to aftermarket forged items so will require a larger turbo Price and Payment Conditions: $1600 ONO Will post but prefer pickup and I don't want to risk damage in transit. Extra Info: It has a different compressor housing than shown on the garret site, myself was hoping it would be the one displayed like every other GT3076R but this has a different smooth cover just like the GT35R's Contact Details: MSN/Email: [email protected]

I have a GT3076R on my rb24 i am building, I am looking at selling it for something around the GT35 - GT40 size to handel 450kw atw but would be perfect for a rb22

Hi Duncan, Transfer case is off easy enough next problem is the speedo cog as it appears to have been heated then pressed on... Any idea, If i get this done i will post up some pics of the process Cameron

Well i got it off but it appears that the speedo drive sproket was heated them pressed onto the drive shaft, unless you have all the equipment i think this would be as far as you go converting it to RWD only and just have to leave the Front wheel drive options inside the transfer case cameron

Ok decided to give this ago myself, have all the transfer case bolts out including the big nut on the back of the gearbox just need to get the rear bearing out does nayone know how to get this out to take the transfer case off?

leaving them because i dont have the resourses to take them out nor know how lol but i may investigate this now that i have the diagram above

I am in the process of doign this also but i am jsut cutting the transfer case off and getting a plate welded over it of course taking the chain out that drives the front shaft