BADR33

what boost control are you running? i would have expected boost to hold up better with E85 due to the increased combustion gas due to extra fuel? did you find that the engine runs a lot cooler? EGTs will be cooler its good to see some comparision maps on a dyno that can't wheel slip.. the tests we have done at work with a GTRS on a stock SR20de+t with E85 found that even with LINK G4 ecu and boost control (i think its called vipec over there) we couldn't stop boost creaping up from 14-16psi from approx 5700rpm although we think the internal gate was the limiting factor with that turbo. now hes running a GT2876R and a 38mm wastegate with no issues. I'm hoping that early next year i can get my car tuned at my workshop on E85 once my fuel system is up to scratch. 324kw on 98 pump gas on 19psi on a stock rb25 on a dynapack dyno would be interesting to see what gains there is on my setup. best part is i can have a simple switch that can switch my fuel, inginition, boost tables to suit the E85 worst part is theres no E85 on the pump in NZ. and its approx $2.5 per ltr here. 98s expencive enough at $1.82atm sinthetic oils are what iv been told to run. 5w30 for street cars and 0w30 for race cars if its too thick the oil pressure is to high even when the car is up to operation tempature.. we have been using elf oil in the ones we have done..

a cold air box is a good idea, cold air is denser so it helps reduce the spool time as the air is "thicker" helping to make your turbo more efficiant also the colder the air going in to your turbo the colder the air coming out of your turbo. the less work and heat your intercooler as too deal with. i had issues with boost control on my engine with top mount turbo with no air filter or intake due to vairing intake air temps since i made up a duct with a cold air sheild i gained approx 5-10kw due to cooler intake charge of 5-10degs (air temp sensor between intercooler and throttle body) and spool picked up 200rpm on the dyno at my work, results will vairy between setups of course. a bell mouth on the end of the intake would help even more. heat wrapping intercooler piping on the hotside and intake also help with keeping the heat out. you may want to look at an oil cooler kit to help with the oil temps, i have to cover mine for street use at night time otherwise my oil pressure sits way to high for my likling

one way to test if its rings is to drop a small amount of oil(10-20mls) in the cylinder, if compression gos up then its rings. if stays the same its something else.

if you read my post i had said Link ecu(i think its called vipec over there) dynapack hub dynos are the most repeatable dynos out there, hence why nascars etc are tuned on them, as there is no crap like tyre slip etc only thing they lack is a shootout mode for comparing against other dynos. ie if you do 2 runs in a row. with out changing anything the runs will be within .2% of each other. most people don't push stock turbos above 220kw. here is the 2 that im talking about on this page. the first one is r34 neo rb25det(VVT isnt working), the 2nd is r33 rb25det. both with links, front mount and exhuast http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...8244&page=2 my r33 with stock turbo, front mount, 3" exhuast made 220kw on 10psi on a basic road tune with a LINK ecu.

here in nz we get 220-240kw on 12psi out of stock rb25det with front mount and 3" exhuast and a link ecu on dynapack hub dynos standard injectors are maxed about 230kw although we have got 237kw on stock injectors. safe and ideal af ratio for turbo car is between 11.6 and 12. 11.8 is the aim getting an ecu that runs with out an afm is always good. depends on what your tuners in your area are familar with.

hey there, i took my skyline to the drags for the first time since i have had the car retuned and a bit more boost in to it. the engine has never blowen any oil out the breathers even during dyno tuning, drifting etc. first run at the drag strip and its pissed alot of oil out of the breathers so it went everwhere in the engine bay(i wasnt running a catch can) but it only does it when i back off at the end of the strip. rb25det standard long block with bolt ons engine was running approx 1.2bar, and was making between 310-320kw on the day, im was only revving to 7000rpm as thats what my bee*r limiter was cutting at. had been dyno tuned on 19psi to 325kw with no knock or problems no oil or mist comes out of the breathers under idle or free reving to redline as what would be expected if the rings were gone. car still runs fine and holds good oil pressure. engine wasnt knocking, boost spiking or anything. i own my own dyno tuning shop so i know what was done and how the car was behaving. so has anybody here had problems with oil getting stuck in the head and then pouring out under decel? what have you done to stop this with out pulling the head off? im going to compression test the engine on monday, and hopfully get it back on the dyno soon to check to see if its getting blow by under boost. if the head has to come off im going to put some restrictors in the block and an external head oil drain down the back. what size restrictors do you guys use? i will also be looking at arp headstuds and running a .5mm metal headgasket. so i can run less boost but make the same power. or the same boost and make more power. will give me a chance to look at the bores and see if it will need the bottom end rebuilt,

the car does mostly drift but a bit of other motorsport stuff as well so a bit of thinking to do this is the oil we were using http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/Fic...ang_29/5285.pdf cheers for your suggestion. we will have to look for a suitable replacement

cheers for your replys guys we have just done some more testing e85 on a sr20de+t specs of it stock standard S14 sr20de+t(stock cams, head gasket etc) link g4 ecu and boost control GTRS turbo steam pipe manifold greddy intake manifold, small 200x300 intercooler. 273kw on 14psi. on a dynapack hub dyno anybody aware of any Stock long block SR20DE+Ts with more power then that? making more power and the same torque as his old s13 sr20det on 21psi did on E30 although unfortunatly the small pin hole in the banjo bolt in the turbo got blocked during road testing so its fried the turbo. so external wastegate to help control boost, and a slightly larger garrett turbo to come soon. although now were having the issue of lack of water tempature, about 60-70deg. has an 87deg thermostat what oil grade do you guys use? we currently are using elf 10w40 competion semi sinthetic in it. although i think we will have to go to a lighter weight oil. were only just starting to do some of the development for motorsport nz. im going to be looking at running some e85 in my rb25det, will be interesting to see what kind of gains i can get over my 325kw on 19psi i just have to sort out my fuel pump and then modify my 440cc subaru injectors to flow double that. do you guys find that you get ethanol collecting in your catchcan? and your sump level rising and the dipstick being flamable? i know the ethanol when its with oil thats compatiable with the fuel sits on top of the oil, from what my race fuel supplier has told me.

best pod filters we have found so far from our dyno testing is apexi ones we only lost 2kw on a 435kw rb28dett gtr, samota is rubbish, one car lost 15kw with one. average is 5-10kw k&N is alright, just depends on how oiled and how dirty it is. i havn't done any tests with the foam style hks pod filters

what heat range spark plugs are you guys running with your ethenol verse pump gas? over here we run ngk 7s in 90% of the turbod nissans we tune on 98 pump gas. as it helps aviod detonation i think from memory we ran ngk 7s in the ethenol mixed cars we tuned also. although a slightly warmer plug may benifit cold starting with the cooler burning ethenol although we havn't really don't a lot of playing around with ethenol fuel apart from a couple cars to see what kind of gains you could get out of them

shane i was talking to a guy that builds quite a few race engines, you may of heard of him, mark maholland. and the topic of itbs on na came up, he was telling me about how he built for some race car, i can't rember now, it was ajustiable trumpets with vacume operated valves, so say if you planted boot the trumpt, chamber drops right down, as soon as you back off it snaps backup. not the easyest system to explain. apparantly a couple years later they started using it on f1 cars. he was also telling me that if you spent a bit of time developing the intake system you could actually build boost, yes boost with out a turbo. its all to do with capturing the sound waves and getting it to go all towards the trumpets at the right time. it was a rather interesting conversation i must say, brought up some rather interesting ideas. all bought up by the suzuki g13b offroad racer we were tuning for the taupo 1000km race. good to hear its all running well and your doing well, good to see you also got a g4 link, there an awesome piece of gear.

factory fuel pressure regulator is rising rate of 1:1 so the same as aftermarket sard etc. the only thing it lacks is the base fuel pressure ajustment. there is only a small window of pressure increase that is benificial before the increase in injector dead time actually costs fuel flow. as fuel pressure increases it becomes hard to open the injector. all the sard regs we install at cars at my work, we just set to the same as factory reg. in your case bumping the pressure up a few psi will help. although i don't know how long your factory turbo will last on 14-15psi as the exhuast wheels like to fall off. 230kw is the limit of the factory 370s, you can get v5 sti 440 injectors that drop right in, you just have to change the plug. im running them in my rb25 skyline and iv got 277kw with more fueling to go for when i up the boost

the flutter is the sound of the turbo spinning backwards, sounds cool but its not awesome as it puts quite a bit of load on the compressor wheel and the shaft.

the lower % mix means the car runs a little nicer when its first cold, as you may find with your e85 the car is a little harder to start on very cold mornings. 20% removed all knock from the first sr20det we tund on it. we have a supplier in nz who we buy pure ethenol fuel off, then we just measure it and pour it in. we can buy premix, but you get better value for money out of pure ethenol. i have a gtslink g4 ecu (same as a g4 storm but a plug in for twin cam skylines and has 6x injector drives) the g4 link has an amazing amount of features, you can run switchable fuel maps and also switchable boost maps. if you run with the boost control with the link g4, its amazing how awesome the boost control is. you control the soliniod like an injector as such. you can make it so no pressure gets to the wastegate actuator to bring boost on faster. and you can free boost the turbo to hold the boost up top if you need too. there is also allowance for air temp sensor ajustments so you run the same boost all the time no matter what the outside air temp is. and tps ajustment so you can make full boost on 20% throttle if you wanted. there so much more advanced then power fc, no afm, and just a huge range of features, more then what most people will ever need. over here there considerd to be very simlar to a motec etc, just $1200+ cheeper i would suggest you try find some 550s or similar just to allow for the extra fuel required by ethenol to get the same af ratio as 95, the link will idle your car fine with that. we get sr20det idling normal with modifyed 370cc to 650cc with a link g4, power fc is a little harder from what i have heard. the main part of getting the full result is your tuner in the end, the more familar they are with the software the better they will understand and the faster they will finish the job. over here its $800-$1000 for a full pump gas dyno tune with switchable boost maps. i will try get some dyno sheets from the sr20det we did the 30% tuning on with before and after. i don't remeber if i said this before. the supplier of our ethenol has done a fair amount of research on it, and e30(30% ethenol 70% shell 95) has approx 105 octaine.

yeah i have to agree with the last post, 6x coils is alot better then wasted spark, its just a cheep repair rather then an actual performance mod. my opinion has changed due to having a dynapack hub dyno at work so i have seen a vast range of setups, unless your ecu has ajustiable dwell time for the coils, mitsi coils are no good when you start pushing on the motor. they require 6mili secs of dwell to charge verse 3mili secs for standard coils iv now reverted back to 6x standard coils all though i have done a small repair to prevent arcing to the metal bracket i put tape around the metal bracket, then gasket goo on the base of the coil, installed in to bracket then filled the gap between the coil and bracket with goo, fixed my miss at 3500 on 14psi. the superspark coils or the similar red ones are worth approx 10kw over the whole rev range over even the repaired standard coils with out changing any timing or fuel. from my tests on the dyno