BADR33

damn thats sexy! any idea what power that has? hmm there is some motervation back at my hex throttle conversion

um mine peaks at like 6000ish i think. there will be a dyno sheet on here somewhere but revs to 7 in a flash... still on stock ecu as well... yeah rach you got that right it was 123rwkw and i did run a 15.2... basicly the 123rwkw is just becuase the car hasnt been tuned and has hardly had any real mods done to it yet. the NZ tracks arnt very sticky. well the track i was on wasnt very good as it had been raining that day and the night before... plus i needa pratice launches etc cus a 2.2 60foot isnt that good. that 15.2 was done with street trim plus sub and clothes and stuff. i still have the vvt cams in.. but i will be sending them to get reground soonish to help with top end power for the strip

um it had only been doing that for a month or so. its owned by a performance shop dude... 450kw is on a hub dyno i think.. or mb rolling.. not to sure.. they have also got 400kw outa a rb26 with stock injectors.. my mate has seen the dyno sheet as proof

hey guys, from the last drag met iv managed to find some vids of my car. the 5th race on this one http://66.29.3.66/~carscene/race4.wmv screwd up that race with missing 2nd and 4th that was a 16.3 that r33 skyline in the race before me is insane... hes running 10s and 450kw on stock internals... im in the 2nd race in this one http://66.29.3.66/~carscene/race2.wmv from memory that run was a 15.5 as this is my 2nd run of the day this track is just a airstrip.. so is actually quite slipperly.. but some VHT did help... got down to a 15.2 at 91mph.. so slowly improving cheers guys, have a merry chirstmas and a happy new years

its one of the relays by the ecu that has no power. i could have a look for you if you need. its almost been a year since i did the swap. its quite a simple thing to do as far as i know.. its the same thing that people with cefiros that covernt from rb20e to rb20det etc... its simple for a auto sparky to do.

my diff ratio is 4.3... but a single spinner isnt much use on a slippery track. with stiff suspension and 18s and 2.5deg camber in the back... next time i will put stock suspeinsion in. run some 16s possibly with semi slicks yeah i loved the sound with just dropping the rear muffler off. cheers guys. the next one is in about a month so ill see if i can improve on my time...

hey. iv done this conversion on my r33. except i went to rb30de... the rb20e gearbox bolts up, tail shaft slides rite on it of corse as your using the same box. if you dont have a manual rb25de fly wheel you can use the rb20e one. you can use either rb25 or rb20e mounts, gearbox crossmenber is fine as as the engine is no longer then the previous. yes the wiring plugs in to the headlights etc. well it did for me. the only trap you need to be aware of is the fact that the car will crank but not start because it dusnt send power to the CAS. its pretty easy to do. all you need to do is run a power wire to the ingnition from one of the relays... it helps if you dont have a car alarm to blow up like i did with mine... is your battery in the front or the back? dus your car have ABS?

well a mate of mine with a 4dr whale ran a low 16 a couple of years ago.. NZ dusnt have the best drag tracks.. well the best one is too far away. haha. i just bought a 2way diff off the local internet trading site.. im hoping its a good one cus that would be bloody handy to have a nice diff finialy. slightly lower ratio at 4.1 but its all good! so the diffs on the way. now all i need is a set of semi slicks or some 16s and should be looking even better. i think if i can get in to high 14s by the end of the summer i would be extremly happy.. that would be 1 pretty fast 4dr whale ay? i hadnt even planned to drag untill like 2days before the drags... cheers nizmo freek.. im still getting the mudd outa the guards of my car! probly going to have to take off the wheels and clean every thing again!! sunday was sooo much nicer

yay i finialy got the chance to go down the 1/4 mile.. started off with 16.3s. then i got down to 15.5 at 93mph on a unpreped track.. because of the lack of traction i was only doing 2.6sec 60foots didnt help with running a single spinner at 2.5degrees camber in the rear. oh and running with the 18s on... all i can say is bring on the 2way diff and reground cams!!

the coils dont screw up that often. they last atleast 100,000ks but i know of them lasting over 200,000ks. you can get 2nd hand replacements easy enough. so its not somthing i would worry about if i was you.

hey sorry guys been a while since iv been on the net. the rb30s going great.. well except for the suspected cracked headgasket.. but thats not a biggy cus its only leaking oil down the side of the block. in NZ there is atleast one place that modifys the vvt head to fit it. R.I.P.S is who i got mine through. hes well knowen for building high power stock internald rb30det cars. i havnt been pulled up at all for my engine as it still looks like a stock engine. just a little taller. but i think NZ is a little easyer on cars. im just looking in to some reground cams now as i only want to take the head off once if i can help it. so might also look at some minor porting and polishing at the same time if i can afford it. then probly an ECU and a few other things. im also looking for some parts to custom make a hex throttle setup.

damn i havnt been on the forums for a while. nice to see another rb30de out there. i would have expected slightly better power from what you have done to yours. im just starting to look at doing the cams in my rb30de. yours is about where i want to get mine to with the specs. i cant rember the kW to hp conversion. but mine has 123rwkw. i know of another one in NZ that had dynod at 138rwkw before being tuned down to 130. mine pulls hard till about 5500-6000rpm till the power drops off a bit. but still hits stock rev limiter very quick. has your ecu been retuned since the cams? how is the air fuel ratio?

if you want to make sure that the termanals wont fall off use some solder.. i didnt use female conectors. i just solderd it and then put heat shrink over it. there is a couple of otherways to do it that i just thought of.. when i do my mates one i might try them out.. but i got a new soldering iron that is way better then my old one so ill probly just solder it... good to see a few people out there trying it.

your rb25de will be VVT.. you can still use rb20det cams.. but then you will lose your VVT... i will be looking at cams at some stage hopfully... somthing to open a little bit more power up top.. otherwise ill just port and polish.. kelford cams in NZ does regrinds as well..

try a search.. there is meny threads about this. both me and dondensoto have built this. plus i think there is another 1 or 2 guys floating around but i cant rember there user names. cost depends on how much you do yourself and how far you go wtih building it. quickness - mine can keep up with 150kw r32 gtst and similar cars plus some other more powerful and lighter cars. is it worth it.. depends what your wanting from it and what you want to spend. if your wanting to build a super quick NA car get a honda if your wanting a torquy, fun engine with plenty of power that revs pretty quick with the rb sound then this is what you want. head will bolt staright on to vl bottom end. i dont think it was a waste of $$ at all.

yeah good write up. i think a well sorted NA can be as much fun if not more fun then a turbo. my rb30de can keep up with midly modifyd r32 gtst getting a LSD is a huge advangage. changing the diff to a higher ratio helps with accleration. i noticed this when changed my diff from 4.0 to 4.3.. but it makes your speedo read higher then your doing. another very cheep option for atleast r33 is to swap your exhuast for a rb25det exhuast. if you can get the bigger cat its a bonus.. but its a 2.5" exhuast. not sure if its crushed or mandrel. but its quite tidy looking. me and my mate who have done it have only spent between $150 and $200 to buy and get them fitted. it is torque that makes your car move and its what you feel.. so you have to have a ballance between torque and top end power.. coby extractors are good. i noticed a good difference when i got them fitted to my rb20e.. good suspension makes a huge difference for everything. if you want your car to sit alot flatter in the corners get some bigger sway bars

oh true. sad to hear. but understandable. im sure you should easily be able to sell that engine. wuold save alot of people the hastle and cost of building one... good luck with the vh41. should be good fun i must say

what you mean going to skyline heaven?! what are you going to do with the engine etc? what plans do you have after this one?

the GTR head actually requires less modification then the rb25 one. its all to do with the head stud being larger. but im not sure weather your make them bigger on the block or where. im not to sure about the wiring for rb26. if you got a r33 rb26 engine loom you should be sweet as. otherwise just run rb25de items as they should work alright. but really the rb26 head looks the same as a rb25 head.. just with a side pleninum.. how meny cops are going to know the difference? but otherwise just to make the wiring easyer just go with the rb25de head as wiring is a pain in the ass... damn trumpets are illigial over there? gutted as for you. with the rb25de head it will look just like a rb25de.. you will need to bang a couple of the bonnet suports up. but if you get a side pleninum you will be all good. in the end its up to you. plan out what you think will work best and suits your budget and parts avaliability. as your engine is already rb25de. are you using your engine as donar parts? if so then just use your engine for the parts as you will need all the senders etc off it.

my pricing is brand new leads and coil pack through repco but at mates rates.. pfft ford.. who would want a ford part on there car.. lol its bad enough we have mitsi parts running our engines

nah not yet sorry. its winter time here. the nearest drag strip is closed.. well the only other one i know of is 8hrs away.. when it gets back to spring/summer i will take it to the strip and see what she dus well whenever i hear of the next drag met have you dynoed yours yet?

im just using rb30 rods and crank, series 2 vl block. customised rb20e coby extractors. rb30e head gasket. all you really need to do is ballance the internals and you will be sweet to rev to 7500rpm. on my stock ecu it revs hard to just over 7000rpm. i would replace all the bearings and seals in the short block atleast. you might find the crank has a grove warn by the oil pully seal so that would have to get fixed to be sure it dont leak oil. i think the rb26 head is a better choice if your wanting to do cams and trumpets as the heads are pretty much set up for big cams and they are a better flowing head... as the 6 throttles will bolt straight on with out an adaptor plate you can still deck the block if you go rb26 head.. if you go r33 rb25 head you will need to get the front oil gallirie modifyed and run a hose for the VVT oil feed. i am happy with mine. mine put out 1040nm of torque on a hub dyno.. or 264NM from the engine. it dus throw you back in the seat. everybody that rides in it is suprise with the torque it has for a NA even the guys from turbo cars are suprised. my car is definaly fun to drive. hence why i just go for random drives just for the sake of it. if you want to see the dyno sheet just scroll thru the old pages and you should be able to find a link of my dyno sheet. i have a few threads on my bulid up of my engine. i dont have a front strut bar. car still handles fine but thats probly becasue i have coilovers and a huge front sway bar

you speak like a man who hasnt been in a rb30de powerd car.. sure nos is fun when your wanting to thrash it. but how long will it last? how often would you have to fill it up? plus its illigial to use on the roads?the rb30 is handy all over the show.

you can use your rb25de pistons and you will get a 10.5:1 compression with stock headgasket. if you want more compressoin deck the block 1mm as the pistons sit 1mm from the top due to the higher pin hight on rb25de pistons. otherwise you will probly have to look at getting custom pistons as there is bugger all tuneing for NA RBs with the power fc you would need the dejet kit thingy so it can work with out an AFM. im looking at the hex throttles for my car right now... if you know of somewhere you can buy them let me know! well trying to find some! then ill probly be using a LINK ecu as you dont need a AFM and its pretty cheep. there was a guy in NZ who built one that was 3.1ltr cus he over bored it. greddy side pleninum, 3" exhuast, fuel pressure regulator and a couple of other mods but he wasnt running VVT and he got 139rwkw before being tuned down to 130rwkw. but that didnt have alot of torque from what i was told. 150rwkw is possible. you will just need the right mods.. my 123rwkw rb30 is plenty of fun and its amazing how meny people are suprised by the torque mine has.. and all these guys are coming from light weight modded turbo cars... so you should either use a RB26 head or RB25DE with vvt as with the NA vvt is worth it.. well i think it is. RB26 would be easyer and probly a better idea as you get solid lifters, plenty of aftermarket cams to choose, better flowing head, 6throttles.. all you would need is trumpets and extractors..

yup the ingniton leads go on top of the spark plugs. makes changing spark plugs nice and easy especialy if you dont have the coil cover on. im going to do the conversion on my mates r33 gtst in a couple of weekends. ill take some better pics hopfully this time from start to finish. its the same as running your normal coil packs. except that 2 plugs fire at the same time. so the plugs will be doing 2wice the sparking they would with normal coil packs. the main idea of this is to get the coils away from the heat of the engine as that what kills the rb coil packs. i have had people with series 2 rb25s pming me and they have almost got it sorted using a r32 coil pack. im just waiting to hear back from him about how it all went.