BADR33

all you need for the series 2 swap is a coil pack and mb the coil loom. im not sure on the series 2 coil loom will plug up to the coil pack as i dont even know anybody with a series 2 engine. my set up cost me $140 all up from memory. i probly could have done it a bit cheeper if i had bought leads seperatly. plus then they would all be the right length...

no, i am just following what others have been doing. this set up must work as it is used on 90% of the top rb powerd drift cars in NZ from what i was told by the guy who sells this as a made up kit. i have some links to other websites with the info. this dus improve idle, acceleration and i found i got a little bit more fuel econamy and power. http://www.dsd.co.nz/coils.htm and the guy who sells the set up http://gdz1la.kol.co.nz/prod01.htm there is also guys who use mitsi VR4 coils and other kinda coils.

Hi there. strip off the inuslation off your coil pack loom and you should see what is happening. dont cut the plugs till you have labled what wires go to what spark plug. take photos as you go incase you forget somthing. pink is the power so you put them on one side as i have. white is signal from the ecu to spark. you dont need any grounds for the coil pack. as your using r33 coil pack loom you dont need to worry about a grounding loop that r32s have as they have an extra wire on the r32 ingnitor and on the other little plug has 3wires instead of the 2 that r33 have.

it should just be lifters. rb30es go forever. the lifters do get noiser over time though. single cam is stupid on a rb. swap a rb25de head on to your rb30e block. then youll be happyer my best bet for you to spend your $$ on. would be to build an rb30det. its pretty common these days. but that make alot of power for quite cheep. plus it would also mean your engine block will still match up to your chassie numbers r ead the rb30det sticky in the forced induction area. that should give you a few ideas

oh true. good luck man. ill be keen to see the results once its all done. good on ya for building a high power NA. have you considerd the RB26 head much though? would save you a fair amount of $$ over time. and its easyer to make fit the block the a VVT head. but yeah you will have a damn sexy sounding RB once its all done

it will be 15" rim that is 6 or 6.5" wide, with a 195/60 tyre i think. or its 55. i cant quite rember. if you look on the edge of your drivers door it should say on it. mine does. your stud pattern will be 4x114.3 offset will be somwehere between +35 and +40 if your getting mags +35 is a good offset. i have +40 and they sit in a little too far for my liking.

im using rb25de oil pump. it was even worse when i was running 10w60 oil. now im running 10w30 so its a little better. its not that helpfull that i do rev the car out often.. it just revs so damn quick that you dont realise.. im using a 25 harmonic ballancer. i had all of my interanls ballanced from the clutch, flywheel, crank, rods and harmonic balancer. its a very smooth reving engine. once i get my exhaust fixed i will try either get a video or a sound recording of it. i have been trying to for 6months. but havnt had the time. or been that happy with the sound of the exhuast... if you aim of reving over 7000rpm you might have to look at injectors and you will need an aftermarket ecu. i still need to get one for mine as power starts dying away just before 7ish. so you will also need some high lift and duration cams to still be making power up there. you would also probly be wanting to look at hex throttles to help with the breathing.

i cant rember if i already said in this thread. but i have a RB30DE NA with 10.43 compression. same with dondenotso as well. he has a few more mods then me. there is also a guy in NZ who has a RB31de. he put out 139rwkw apparnatly before he had it tuned down to 130. all he had was 3"exhaust, greedy pleninum, 80mm throttle body, fuel pressure reguator, rb20det injectors and running nonvvt so he had a flat torque curve from what i was told. they are very drivable. i run mine on 95ron and she gos plenty well. ie on the race track i am hitting similar speeds on the straight as rb25det r33 if you want to increase compression you can add rb25de pistons and that will give you 10.4ish compression depnending on what head your using. you can then shave the head and that will give you a little more. but if i had the choice of building my motor all over again i would have gone with the RB26 head as you get hex throttles, solid lifters, biger cams all stock.. if you ballance the internals it will happyily rev to 7500 if your ecu will allow that. mine will get to 7200 (stock rev limiter) very quick with out even trying. also another thing to rember. get oil restrictors to the head!! im getting the maddest blow by oil because i didnt put any in.. another choice of ecu is LINK PLUS. thats the one i will get for my car if and when i decide to spend the extra $$ on a ECU.

gearbox will bolt up. use your r33 engine mounts. the thing is tho.. who is actually going to be able to tell it is a rb30? unless they look at the engine tag on the bottom of the block... cus if you put the 20e cam cover on nobody will be the wiser. even with my rb30de the mechanic thought it was a rb25de. even tho the intake pipe just touches the bonnet..

damn sucks for yous over there with all your emitions stuff. you could put a rb30e in. swap to the nissan cam cover and nobody would ever be the wiser as it would look exactly the same as the rb20e.. just a little taller.. plus you will gain torque and atleast 10kw at the wheels.. i wish i could have put a 26head now on my rb30.. just like im wishing i had put oil restrictors in the head as well... too much damn blowby!!

if your meaning rb30e then it can be done easy as and cheep as chips. read through this. its about r32 but it will work for r33 http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51129 if your wanting a twin cam swap it wont be that cheep or easy. i know as i have been through that myself with my rb30de convesion from rb20e..

cheers man. it will be changing again soon once the 5stud is on cus ill get some new wheels. plus a few suspension goodies. plus i will start on my custom side skirts to make them fit alot nicer then they did before.. good luck to all you guys and your projects. good to see some people working on NA skylines even if its making them turbo

ah yeah. if you want to use a r33 gtst motor you would need a sumper adaptor plate. same thing they use for putting RB30 engines in to GTS4 or GTR skylines. would be the easyest way to do it. good luck in your goal. rember for your budget work out an estimate and add $1000 and that should keep you sweet for any unexpected problems.. well minor ones.

if you want to go turbo you will need a rb25det out of a 4wd stagea. there pretty rare so you would be better off just converting your engine to turbo. if your worryed about compression run a thicker head gasket or get your engine rebuilt with turbo pistons. then all you need is turbo, turbo manifold, injectors, AFM, turbo ecu(if there is any difference), intercooler and pipes and a few other little things. its been done meny times before and most people dont have any problems running it on stock internals. you just have to rember you cant run alot of boost.

im just about to undertake the 5stud conversoin on my r33 gts. for it all to bolt on (im sure for rearwheel drive) from the turbo car you need the brake discs and calipers and 5stud hubs. (if your car is ABS it has to be from a car that had ABS) plus some 5 stud wheels plus the extra wheel nuts from your car you can use the existing brake lines but i have been told you have to cut down the banjo bolt. otherwise just get the brake lines with your 5 stud conversoin and it will all bolt right on. the other thing i have been told to do is to change the brake master and slave cylinder as you might find poor pedal pressure using your old ones. as your car is 4wd you will probly need GTR hubs. but you would probly be best talking to nissan or a nissan wreakers. have you investiageted r32 gts4 hubs? damn 500bux from a wreakers!! thats crazy cheep. i just paid $600 for a set off my local internet auction site. wreakers ask up to $800 bux here as there the brakes that all drifters like to use.

NA R33, hmm i could be keen on that offer if i do decide to go with the hex throttles. that will be a while away tho as i am poor from buying a new clutch(carbon/kevlar), and soon to be buying a 5stud conversoin all going well but otherwise ill probly look at going dondesoto's set up as its cheep and easy. there is a guy in NZ with a rb30de that put out 139rwkw with basic mods heres the link. unfortunaltly the guy wont tell me any specs http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51434

not of relevance as im from NZ so things are sligthly different here. damn i gota say that insurance sucks for you aussie guys. even insuring a trubo skyline here isnt anywhere near that expencive.. but then i guess we pay for it with our gas. and extra tax.. haha. most insurance companys wouldnt touch me as soon as they heard under 25 and skyline in the same sentence. even tho it was only a 2ltr na. but quotes for me was $1500 a year for full insurance on my 1997 r33 gts but its insured through my parents for now at $950 a year for full insurance and im put as main driver. and excess is 800 or somthing. will be interesting to see how my insurance gos when i get my car certed for all the mods..

my rb30de went on the dyno in the weekend. running 0 timing(cus i forgot to advance it as i had knocked it back ages ago after the last dyno showed it was running lean) and it still put out 121.7rwkw so i lost 2rwkw and 100Nm of torque. from running 20deg advance to 0 or less. it really needs an aftermarket ecu. but im just waiting on earning enough $$ to pay for one and get it tuned. if i wacked some larger cams, did some porting, mb 6x throttle body and another exhaust manifold set up for peak power instead of good low down torque. i reken it could be close to 150rwkw. its one of those things that you dont really know untill sumbody has done it. when i can find that dyno sheet ill take a photo and put it up for you. im still trying to get a sound recording of my car it just sounds pretty insane and nobody can really pick what it is unless you know that i put that motor in my car

150ish would be my ultimate goal. but im not aiming for max power or anything as to really get high KW i would have to sacrifice drivablity and fuel econamy. my next aim is 130kw. but that is a long way away as i have other stuff i wish to sort out first. iv got plenty of power to keep me happy neway cheers for your imput. i already know NA is not a cheep way for power.

oh true. im only going off what everybody says bout the speedtech dyno. i know checquard flag reads high but thats because they do it in a differnt format? sweet as man. yeah i will have a talk to him. i just want to sort out the lean problem to help smooth low down torque. 130ish is my next aim. im sure some better cams. plus a better intake will help me out. got talk to the guys at midas about doing somthing about in in the next few months with the intake possibly either will do xf falcon throttle body, twin throttle, a side pleninum or 6 throttle. more air means ill need more fuel to sort the mixture.. still might need a new clutch tho as this one slips a little when changing gear from 2nd to 3rd at the high upper rpms.. lol. its a work in progress. finishing the suspension and 5stud is next if you decide to part with your link let me know.. i wonder if it would work with my car?

cheers man, um nah i actually find them to ride very smooth even round macra(extreamly bumpy road) i had no problems with the bumpyness. everybody that rides in it actually comments on how smooth it is. even though its so low i still have full spring travel in the front and rear as you lower the bcs by turning the bottom of the shock around as its threaded. but you can also lower them via the other things under the spring. it just means they wont stay captive but thats what keeper springs are for.. id reccomend them to anybody the only problem is they can be a little too low as i think the fronts set at the highest and i only have 90mm clearance to the lowest point i measured on the front.. so time to get me a cert down to 80mm

um well at the moment i am averageing 400ks plus a tank. so i think thats for about 50ltrs. its not that good but the car really needs a tune. plus i hadnt sorted out the high idle of 1500 due to using a factory auto ecu. mind you for that 400ks its alot of fun and there is a fair bit of thrashing as your expected to do when your car sounds mint as the only driving im doing these days is around town and with my mates in the weekends as i train to work. lol thanks man good idea for that. as you will get all the stronger stuff i really need to sit down and plan out the next step with some people that know there stuff with motors. i need to decide what im going to do with the pleninum, cams, ecu, and the fuel system. but for now im sorting out some new suspension parts so i can get my car certified(eningneered) so meny choices on stuff. just not enough money.. i still have to try and get a sound recording for you guys

i think last time it put out 124rwkw and 264Nm of torque. less then i had expected but then it had only been running for a week and it needed a tune.. still havnt got one yet either.. but also apparantly that dyno reads very low. if i went to the other one i would have like an extra 10rwkw the power is interesting tho as it holds peak power for 2000rpm from 5000-7000 and peak torque is at 5500 from memory there is a dyno sheet further down the page. im looking forward to getting a new one dyno anyway if any body wants pics or extra details on anything just let me know via this thread or PM and ill sort it out for ya as i know that you will never get the chance to see it in person unless you come over to welly, nz

yes i have had it on the dyno once before. the af ratio showd it running very lean down low but about right up top. i would rather have it running rich then lean. its all to go in when i put the new ecu in and a new intake(not sure what style yet tho) its more for safty then gaining power. its just that i am planning on allowing more air in to the engine so ill need more fuel its just a stock r33 faclift front bumper. its had the front indercators removed and put in to the corners of the headlights because i have 4dr headlights so the main beam and high beem are in one. just took that bulb that lights up when you indercate and i rewired it and put a orange bulb in it. its alot simpler then it sounds. if i had a fiberglass front i would have broken it along time ago... lol

i have made a tech thing for the wasted spark set up. but as i hadnt planned on making a tech i hadnt taken step by step pics. but will next time i do the conversion for sombody.. but its waiting on being approved so ill put up the link when i find out if its been approved