BADR33

hi there, this mod is suitable for rb20det, rb20de, rb25de and det(as long as you have an ingnitor pack on the cam cover) can be done for series 2 rb25s but you will require an ingnitor pack. i have a cheeper alternative for all you people out there who keep losing coils and dont want to fork out big $$ for spitfire coils. what you will require: 6 spark plug leads that are a suitable length to reach to where ever you decide to mount the wasted spark setup. i used champion steel ingition leads part number CH6106S for a holden commodore vs&Vt 3.8ltr but i suggest you buy them individuly as you can get the lengths much better as i found 2 of them are a bit to long the replacement coil pack is what i was told is a buick(holden) tridon part number TIC032 side cutters, soildering iron and solider, or crimpers and the correct crimping bits to clip on to the coil pack. heat shrink and between 1-2hrs to do. step 1:remove coils and coil loom from the car. and decide where you want to mount the coils. 2: strip the coverings off the wiring so you can see where and what wire each one does. 3: lable the pink wires so you know what wire is for each coil. then cut off near the plug 4: for r32s you will need to make sure you dont cut off the ground wires from the ingnitor pack(7 wires) to the other small plug(3 wires) next to it. r33 has (6wires and 2wires so there is no ground wires to deal with) 5: you will need the white power wire from the 3 or 2wire plug as that is the power wire for the coil pack. 6. group together the pink wires in to 3 sets. 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4. 7: i suggest you lable the front of the coil pack as you attach the wires to the coil pack as to save on any confusion later on. 8: attach the white wires to the pins showen on the pic. it doesnt matter what side of pins you use as long as all the white are on 1 side and pink are on the other side. 9. mount the coil pack in your engine bay. make sure that the pins on the back are not touching anything. i folded mine down and put shrink wrap over them just to be safe. 10: put the spark plug leads on the spark plugs and the coil pack in the correct order and plug in ingnitor pack. 11: if your car had dropped a coil then you should reset your ecu. but reset it anyway to be on the safe side. 12: start your car. if it doesnt start check that the leads are on the right plugs as its easy to accidently put (3 and 4) on (1 and 6). if its r32 check that you grounded the ground wire. otherwise just check that you did wire everything up correctly. i will try and get walk through pics if i do the conversoin again hope this helps

pm sent back. waste spark is a cheeper option then replacing your coils. some people say it makes your car go better. i think it does make a little difference. have a look on the back of my firewall in the photos and you will sorta see what im talking about. you have 6 spark plug leads and a tripple coil pack. its easy as to wire up as well. its called wasted spark as it fires the spark plugs in sets of 3s cyclinder 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4. so one spark is fired during the exhuast stroke of the engine hence a wasted spark. i have attached a pic to help you get an idea. that was the previous position of the coil pack before i moved it to the back of the fire wall. i can supply a couple of links with walk throughs for how to do the conversoin for those of you that are interested cheers guys, still along way to go tho

hey guys, been a while since i have posted anything up. in the last few weeks i have done a few things to the car. suspension: lowerd it on BC coilovers, rear camber arms(still to fit), sump bash plate and lipped front guards. soon to be getting: ajustiable rear sway bar, front camber bushes, rear subframe bushes and some other stuff. im also looking at converting to 5 stud soon as well. engine mods: new cold airbox, wasted spark ingniton, custom 2ltr oil catch can(mock up for now out of PVC piping), new battery in the next few months i want: Link ECU, 25t injectors, 25t fuel pump, ajustiable fuel pressure regulator. other mods: new rear speakers, 6x9s on the boot lid cus i was bored. plans: oil temp gauge, water temp gauge, and another gauge all mounted under or above the headunit. hopfully all done before the next trackday im doing on the 28th of may. i have another dyno day on the 20th of may so i can see what difference the wasted spark set up has made. now all i really have is that problem of $$ to sort out... what do you guys think?

i have BC coilovers in my r33. the spring rate for mine is 8kg front and 6kg rear and it rides fine on the bumpy NZ roads. if you wana harden it up you just dial up the dampning. jap coilovers are often insanly hard with there spring rates.

damn man thats quick. will be sad that its gona be a trailer car.. but damn the price you pay for speed good luck. i might have to keep an eye out for that issue in NZ if we get Zoom over here.

if your going to have ducting to your pod filter you can make sure its not aiming at your pod so if any water gets in there it dusnt go strait in your airfilter or you can block off the hole either in the engine bay or in the front of the bumper. when its raining the air is gennerally colder so you will still feel some benifits of the colder air. easyest way for cold air.. remove the headlight even tho it dus look arse.

if you want high revs go rb26 and ballance the internals, light flywheel and billet crank pully. my rb30 has been ballanced and revs smoothly up to rev limiter at about 7200rpm. yeah rb26 head on rb30 bottom end would be awesome as the rb30 has very good torque all the way through. have a look at my dyno results for mine. thats with rb25 head. whatever the redline is on gtr then you can rev it to that then. but its all at a risk. if i was to do that i would want an r33 gtr motor and run N1 oil pumps and stuff. for your power aim its not gona be cheep. you will need lumpy cams. ported and poilishd head. custom high compressoin pistons mb. in the end its up to you. none of this has really been done as people just decide that they want max power so they go boosted.

cheers man. yeah that cruise was alright. didnt really have any direction tho. she sounds scary in tunnels tho.. like the terrace tunnel when its empty. 2nd gear taking off at 50kph all the way to redline shame you didnt see it at 2hot2handle.. she was sackd out on her ass. heres the only pic i have at the mo that i have found. http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~bushtim/DSC00132.JPG come and say hi oneday and i can take you for a spin if you want.

its a shame you dont get rb30s over there. i have one here and its awesome. i would do rb25 if thats what you can get. but what would be better is to get rb26 and run it NA, run high compression 6 throttles.. damn that would sound so nice and be bloody fast

what you could do with it. is mount it so the filter is facing the radiator. sure its not having air forced in to it. but its also not sucking hot air. the air hitting the back of the filter housing would act similar to an intercooler as it would get cooled by the air. or mb that just works in my head. personally i would go for a pod in the engine bay with a good cold airbox and a cold air feed. removing the little rubber thing about the passangers side headlight helps get a little more air in there you can run a cold air feed with out cutting in to the body. just run it up behind the drivers headlight. i have had 2 PVC pipes running to it. and i have also had a bit of metal bent up with sides to direct the air up there.. both of those workd alright.

lol. sorry just voicing my own opinion. hope i didnt offend you i personally dont like series 1 noses that much unless its Mspec and been cut up, and the series 1 tail lights. plus some of the car colours they have... but thats just me. there will be stuff you dont like about series 2 4drs probly? its still a skyline in the end atleast you have a turbo one

all good man sorry if i got a bit defencive or anything. were all allowd our opinion. yeah we are lucky we get such good prices. plus no power restrictions and we dont need a cat converter. insurance isnt too hard/expencive to get. oh and we also dont have random defect stations like you guys have.. well the ones i read about in aussie car mags...

series 1 4drs are hidious. sereis 2 are not that bad looking. each to there own tho. i have seen that gts25t and it is mint and not dodgy. hes only selling it so cheep so he can finish his supra powerd altezza. 14k for a gts is stupid. i would never pay that much for it. im not here to argue. im just saying on a whole you aussies seem to be paying higher prices on imports then we do over here. probly due to your govenment taxs privatly r33 gts or gts25 sell for between 5-9k.

damn you aussies pay high prices for cars. i can pick up a manual r33 gts25t for like 12k privatly. i know of one with less then 100,000ks, 19s, coil overs, good engine mods very tidy and the guy is only asking 13 or 14k and thats a sereies 2. i paid 11k for my 97 gts(2ltr) manual 78,000ks 4dr. from a dealer.

true true. yeah you can gain a bit of power with a good tune and good timing easy. thats what mine needs. i will probly get mine dyno tuned once i have the bits i need to get this all sorted. i.e rb25det injectors and air/fuel ratio controler hehe damn it sounds scary in tunnels

yeah i have now realised its running lean. i had to sit down and think plus listen to my mate lith and then understand the airfuel ratio. iv knocked back the timing a little just to be safe. but i need to get an airfuel controler to sort it out properly. still got a slight oil leak.. but i have found where it is now.. stupid external oil feed this time down by the oil pressure sender so thats gona be fun to get at.... now i have learnt to lock tight on everything...

even if the v8 is only $1000 you would still have all the other engineering costs of custom engine mounts, different gearbox or adaptor plate, wiring would be a pain. so the cost could end up being similar to building the rb34de then in the end you dont end up with a skyline cus its not all nissan. NA_r33 is different cus he used a nissan V8 of all the N/A skyline motors rb30de has to be the best of the easyily built N/A. rb34de can only be better plus the sound of the rb34.. mmmmmmmm once he gets it all done. im sure if you went for a ride in it you would understand why he did it. thats what i have done with all the people who said why you spending all that $$ just to run it as N/A. now they like it

looking good man. so how much of that is custom? what size bore you using? what dus that kinda set up cost? my rb30 put out 124rwkw and 264Nm of torque(ajusted). so thats alright

cheers lith the only reason i thought it was running rich was cus thats what andre told me. plus that would explain the poor fuel econmany even on long distance driving. but then again that might be down to the tune of the car plus being an auto ecu... yeah don im now sorta aiming towards your mods to help gain performance etc. i will be interested to see your dyno results when you get yours done. how long till you do your one? how did you tune the safc?

torque is only like that due to the air fuel ratio being so rich down low and the tune isnt right. once i get a air fuel controler it should be alot smoother. there is a good write up with pics in the thread "my rb30de" heres the basic specs anyway. compression is 10.43:1, stock r33 rb25de ecu, custom extractors and 2.5" mandrel bent exhuast. intake is just a stock rb25de pleninum with custom 3" intake pipe and pod filter. stock injectors, fuel pump, cams. runs VVT or VCT haha how fun it is to be spinning up through first, 2nd and half of 3rd in the drags even when your only launching at 1500rpm. sittin on the spot at 3500rpm the surface of the track was absoule crap with plenty of gravel. my best time for the 200m was 10.5 still good fun tho

it is a lovly power curve even if i do say so myself. interesting how the peak Kw stays there for pretty much 2000rpm... its impressed everybody that has been in it so far. but most importantly im happy haha yup its plenty of fun.. its going to be interesting on 205 crap tyres at the drags tomorow on a bad surface with gravel cus its a airport runway. i already spun them up accidently with out even trying.. stupid torque.. haha yeah not sure weather to get safc or just to go for a ecu.. but then i need to get my other mods. first of all i need some $$

got the car dynod. less power then i was hoping for. but then half that is due to the bad tune the car has as showen by the A/F ratio. car runs insanily rich downlow but gets to about perfect up top. im not too worryed about the lowish rwkw. the power curve is really nice and it holds peak power quite well. not sure what timing i was running on the day. its about the same power of a stock r32 GTST so what are your guys opinions of the over all result? overall im happy with it. alot of people are impressed with it. now all i need is some coil overs to sort out the handling and somthing to sort out the A/F ratio to lean it out down low.

http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dynosheetsml7kv.jpg i got that dyno sheet off the rb30det thread in forced induction. the red line is it as an NA, the black is trubo so obviously its running the lower comperssoin but it still put out 135rwkw. my car pulls hard right up too rev limiter. i cant rember what that is tho as i have only hit it once by accident cus the car just revs so damn quick for a stock flywheel. so that dyno thing isnt that accurate but thats cus its a simulation i guess next sat i will have an answer of how much power and torque. it has impressed everybody who has ridden in it so far and im definatly happy .

um im getting mine dynoed in 1 week so i can give you a firmish figure then. i would be expecting atleast 135rwkw. if its less it probly means my tune is way out. all i can say is so far i have impressed a few of my trubo mates with the power and torque of the NA i think you just use a powerfc for rb25det?

im running a rb25de ecu for my run in.. seems to be running fine at the mo. its mainly just till i decide what mods i wana do and what ecu i want to run. im considering link at the mo as it would be suitable if i decide to go with hex throttles. but then i need to find a tuner i trust that isnt an 8hr drive away...