BADR33

well there is a thread down the page a bit titled "my rb30de" thats my rb30de build. im running high compression. and from the distance i have done its a very drivable car with plenty of power from take off all the way up to redline. well i havnt reved up there quite yet. but thats another 800ks away... lol the compression ratio is 8.3 if you just put rb25 head on stock rb30e block. the cheepest and easyest way to get high compressoin is to use rb25de pistons and you will end up with a compression ratio of about 10.4. mine is 10.43:1 using rb25 vvt head and rb25de pistons if you wana raise it even more then you could deck the block and plain the head.

hmm yeah every dyno seems to give a differnt reading. that dip in power might be due to the VCT soliniod changing the cams? your car doesnt seem to be running too lean. lean means more power and less wasted gas... but then im not 100% sure what the af ratio should be. its good to see you got yours dynoed. hopfully mine will get dynoed on sat next week. damn my old rb20e made its peak power at 5000rpm. lol

GOOD NEWS, sounds like the bearings will be fine. the oil was leaking outa the top fitting of the external oil feed due to me not doing it up tight enough. but it felt tight to me when i did it cus i think it was catching on the back of the cam cover back plate. stupid engine reconditoiners telling me that if they did it it would cost me more. so that means the rattle is supposed to be somthing to do with the clutch/flywheel area. so that means the gearbox has to come out more $$ down the drain but its another thing that will be my fault most likly. oh well. moral of the story is: wait till you have all your parts, dont rush, and make sure you torque everything up that needs too be torqued as thats probly the cause of the knocking sound. should have the car back running perfect on friday all going to plan *fingers crossed*

for run in you can use stock ecus. but you still cant hit boost. as i said before. i dont know alot about turbo rb30s cus i was never aiming to build one. rb20det ecu can be chipped so it would handle. aftermarket is best. cheers eug yeah it sucks but there isn't anything i can do. it was acttualy knocking after like 5kms so it musta been pissing out the oil. i didnt see it was leaking oil due to the fact it was pissing out the coolant. it also means i can get the coolant leak between the inlet manifold and the head sorted too. but argh more waiting!! i should be able to find out whats happend and what needs fixing on tuesday so i guess thats D-day all i can say it is well worth it and im pleased with the engine's power and delievery. yeah i cant wait to dyno or get some drag/circut times either. ill be sure to post them up. now i know what dondenoto gets to feel everytime he drives his r31

if your gona talk about rb30det you need to go through that sticky as that has all the info. use r33 turbo computer with vvt head. rb20det for r32 rb25 head. the only rb25de head that doesnt have VVT is R32. im pretty sure you have to run an aftermarket ecu to keep the turbo happy the short block is just an rb30e with out the head on. a long block is with the head on. they still come from r31 skylines or vl commys

i got mine from a wreakers. my $100 was for a short block. i was lucky and i got one with the tubo fittings(incase i ever want to go turbo) the wiring is workable as proven by dondesoto. the welding is alloy as you have to weld the head. not the block. send him a pm to ask further questions about wiring etc. from what i have read he did most the work himself.

yeah they are cheep as chips. mine cost me $100 but nah iv spent enough on the internals of that motor getting it ballanced, pistons swapped over etc. the engine place should fix it under warranty due to there screw up and all the oil pissing outa the crank seal. it must have pissed out like 4-4.5ltrs of oil in 10km im used to not having a car by now. its been like 3 and a half weeks now. whats another week or 2? as long as i have it back in time for the drags im happy as iv paid the non refundable $$ for it cold fusion: the wiring isnt that much hastle. well for me it wasnt too bad. running the loom isnt hard. in my r33 there was 2 or 3 wires that didnt match that stopped the car from starting. an auto sparky should be able to have it sorted for like 400max? there isnt that much work in having vvt. well i suppose there is. welding up the front oil gallary, runing an external oil feed. thats the main bit of work. im pretty sure thats all detaild in to the rb30 pdf file. dondesoto has a rb30de running vvt in a r31. have a look at post 8 on page one.

if your going to not use the vvt you can use a rb25de ecu outa a r32. im using vvt and i was running a stock rb25de ecu from a r33. bear in mind you will need the right loom for the ecu. download this pdf to find out everything you need to know http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/

r32 heads bolt stright on. that thread is in force induction. you can make them run with out vvt. just change the inlet cam. but you still have to run external oil feed and drain. ok heres some sad news sounds like my rb30 has screwd the big end bearing after only 20km of driving. yeah its worse then a rotor... the reason why is the engine lost all its oil out of the front of the engine. presumably around the crank oil seal. so it should be fixed under waranty. argh stupid engine builders!! so ill probly wont be able to dyno the car or take it to the 1/8th mile drags as it probly wont be fixed in time all i can say is the little bit of driving i did today was freaking awesome. i cant wait to have it back and running. it sounds so nice too

yeah i used to have a dirty old rb20e. the jump is massive. i might try get a drive in one of my mates gts25 just for comparasion. or let him take it for a spin to compare. im keen to see how the dyno gos to see what the torque and kw are. it will definatly be drivable round town easy. now i just need to get the inlet manifold on. check for leaks then i can start driving again

she lives!! oh how good it feels to have power even tho i can only rev to 4000rpm its still damn fun. well for the 5mins i drove it.. oh and the mean grunty sound even tho it only has a stock turbo muffer on there. then i found a coolant leak under the front of the inlet manifold. so thats off now. gota replace the gasket and the front stud as the thread is munted. but that should be done tomorow. dyno is in 2weeks(18th march) and on the 19th im taking part in some 1/8th mile drags. oh its starting to get exciting. mmm rb30 goodness

thanks for the link. iv been searching for somthing like that for ages. its quite a bit more work then i first though. but will be well worth it in the end.

an xf falcon throttle body is a common mod. its a 65 or a 68mm. not really sure what you have to do to make it fit. but i would be interested as thats somthing im considering doing on my rb30... unless i got hex throttle i heard that if you put somthing like that 90mm one you would lose heaps of low down torque. i know it can fit but its best for turbo cars

mines not really that hard out. still havnt got it running stupid electrical issues. once its running i will be getting it dynod on the 18th of march then on the 19th ill be doing a 1/8mile drag the guy with the v8 doesnt count cus its not a stright 6.. plus hes put a supercharger on it lol. but that is still a damn crazy car!! mmm rb34de...

heat wraping helps keep some more heat outa your engine bay. um you heat wrap them yourself. i paid $50 for like 50'x1" of it. i have heard people say do and some people dont. my new extractors arnt heatwrapped as the exhuast guy who i know well said dont do it as the heat gets held in the metal longer and they become brittle or somthing. you can always get them heat coated. you could get some custom extractors made up? mine cost me $650 all up as i got them to do some other work on the car as well.

ok well i got the car back yesterday. iv had a few little problems. all but one i have delt with now. the car cranks, has fuel, injectors are working, not sure about the coils yet. but the problem is the ECU is coming up with the error code 34. so that is about the knock sencers. that doesnt suprise me as the loom was cut on only the knock sencers. but i have solderd it up and still no luck. im really frustrated as no body knows what to do to fix it. i have attachd a pic of what im talking about. the brown wire has the clear wire inside. but it has silver wire on top so i dont get how it works and what the silver wire is there for as its not grounded on anything. and it just stops abruptly(checked that on the rb20e knock sencer wire.)

cheers for the advice. especialy cus im planning on starting the car on thurs. will definatly be an interesting time. have to rember to keep using the brakes. not the engine as i usualy do. yeah the fuel figures will be interesting to see how it all pans out.

yeah wazz i know thats the worst thing to do. but also nanaing it is just as bad. i have planned out my first trip in the car. will involve alot of accelerating and decelerationg and change of load as i will be going over hills etc. i think i can have the 1,000 run in ks done in a week and a bit. if i have the time. yeah definatly will try to get some audio of it. probly will need to change the rear muffler from the stock turbo one im running now. seems to have good flow and is nice and quite.. just a little ratly i think.

ah sweet as. yeah i think i do rember you. yeah my car is sitting at midas right now. dean is just finishing off the extractors today. yeah you might see it out the hutt on thursday. i will have been for a long drive before then to start the run in as i will probly thrash it at some stage being around the skyline guys as they will all want to see what it can do.. lol good to hear that your car is running again

i never actually clamed to be the only one as i know its getting really common. its just that everybody asks me why im not building a turbo rb30. i figured nobody would have really spent all that money on a rb30de r33 when the turbo isnt much more. but yeah its differnt and im sure i will be happy. alot of people are wondering how its going to go and what power it will put out. 4 stud plus the little gts badge on it should make a bit of a sleeper too lithium are you in wellington? if so im sure once its up and running and its all run in i would be able to arrange a viewing of the rb30. should be on the dyno in the next month whenever the skyline club organises one. although it will read lower then it actually is cus the dyno is crap from what i have been told. the dyno is speedtech. the same place where my rb20e put out 71rwkw.. im just looking forward to getting my car back might be tomorow night or early thursday all going well . the extractors held me up cus they had to order a new flange for the front 3 exhuast ports of the manifold as they couldnt reuse the rb20e ones. off my old rb20e coby extractors there going to keep the primarys as they are a good lenght and size for good torque. but they will put on larger secondary pipes to allow for the more gas that will have to pass through. my last worry is will the car start as i did have to change the hole engine wiring loom. but we shall find out soon enough. yeah just sorta babling on now i guess. too excited and nervous cus i have no idea what to expect apart from more power and lots of torque but can you blame me?

http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ download the PDF file on that website and that will tell you everything you need to know. thats what i used to find out. plus i saw another thread by a guy on SAU about how to get the higher compressoin by using rb25 pistons yeah the inlet side at the front needs modifying. if you saw the rb30 block and the head side by side you would see the difference. all you do is weld up the head.. but thats also showen in the PDF file. the ideal head that you will use will be a r32 rb25head as everything lines up. r33 rb25de/det head will need the little head mods, rb26 will need mods to the head stud holes. i have no idea about the neo head as i dont think much has been done with them. yeah sorcing the gear is pretty easy. just post wanted ads on differnt forums and keep your eye out on internet trading sites etc. having a checklist of parts helps too. my car will hopfully be finishd today as its just in the shop getting extractors now. so nervous... not sure what to expect... will get the car on the dyno soon as well

hey suiram man. so you have an rb30de in a r33? have you had a chance to dyno it yet? what specs you running yours at? what motor did your car used to have? im just in the finial stage of getting my rb30de running in my r33. and to think i was the only one in the country with an na rb30de or well atleast in a r33.... lol yeah i think i am using the same plugs that your using as well as mine were from a rb25de.

yeah my rb30s now fitted. i didnt need to mod the engine mounts. just a slight hammer on one of the under bonnet supports. looks damn sexy. should have it running on thursday now only if it would stop raining so i could go outside and finishd changeing the fuel pump

haha cheers guys. Eug you had better be careful with this pic then. that was a test fit to see if it clears the bonnet on non modifyd engine mounts . hopfully tomrow i will have the motor bolted in. its all pretty much ready bar putting the wiring loom in and changing fuel pump plus the exctractors. so sat is the day it should be in and running im hoping all fingers and toes crossed

you can make a skyline handle better easy. some low springs, front and rear sway bars. if you want more power do the exhaust and a pod filter. so say spend 2grand all up and youll have a nice handling car that should sound damn good. you can go cheeper if you use factory parts of the turbo skylines as there bigger and better. turbo skylines are more performance cars then N/A. N/A is more luxuary and comfort with decient fuel econamy.