BADR33

latest update. pulled the rb20e out today. iv figured out how im going to make the speedo work with the gearbox. um the rb30 is virtually complete minus a few little bits and bobs but nothing hard. the rb30 should be bolted in on thursday or friday all going well. and running by the weekend tomorow i will test fit the motor to check for bonnet clearance. ohh getting so close now to having some real power

yeah i know you are. ill have to upgrade the rest of it once its all up and running. as long as it will run on the rb25de injectors im happy. i plan on using the link computer as that is a plug in aftermarket computer. heres a link to one that was for sale on the local auction site http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=46172313

um for run in im using a stock rb25de ECU and stock rb25de injectors. i will probly upgrade to rb25det injectors later on. and i plan on using a link computer as it has pretty much everything that i will need. all i really need now is some money!!

the r33 sedan skyline on page one. heres the run down on the bill. cylinder hone $72 measure and polish crankshaft $50 CC measureing $50 build up seal track $90 (grove worn in to crank shaft from the rear oil seal) ailgin piston to rod $66 (i got them to swap pistons so i knew everything was sweet) check and fit bearings $117 reface stepped flywheel $60 clean ring groves $48 balance crank shaft assembly $350 (they took an awefull lot off some parts of the crank and that was everything from the clutch/flywheel to front pully ballanced) assemble long block $580 parts tensioner $42, idler $76, big end bearings $78, main berings $85, ring set $303, head gasket $38, conversion set $42, clutch assembly(rb25det) $234. for the parts i should have used my mate at repco to get cheep prices on stuff but unfortuantly he was away when i needed him... yeah it did cost me alot in the end. but i know im going to have a reliable motor. next motor i build im going to have a go at doing most of it myself

sweet. i now have the motor back just under $2700 later... ill put up what work i got done when i have time to. 250 of that was for a clutch kit so im not gona complain. so now the real work starts

yeah your discs can wear down if your pads are worn down too far or if they are quite harsh. the reason why they have a minimum thickness is because if your break discs get too thin they have a higher chance of warping or even snapping. yeah after you replace your discs and calipers you should notice a good improvement on braking. on my r33 rb20e i had single pot calipers. so i upgraded to gts25 brakes so i have 2 pot calipers and bigger discs. for new discs have you been in to your local car parts shop like repco and seen what they can do for you?

thats a pretty good idea you got there. you need to rember to still have that catch can venting as it releases excess crank case pressure from what i have been told. my sky is non turbo but i have disconected those oil lines and it does run heaps better. im also not running a catch can at the moment. just a couple of little filters to catch the oil. but i will get a catch can when the new motor is in.

hey, im doing the opposit of you guys in a way. im putting a r32 rb20det in to my rb20e powerd r33. i have the electric speedo. what i have been told is that i need the r32 gtst drive gear. what does it look like and where does it go? cheers

awesome. yeah sounds like you know what you are doing. good luck in achieving your goal.

sweet as. cheers. do you have any pics of what you did? woops i had passed over those on the pdf file. so 15mm on drivers and 12mm on passangers how do you relieve the gearbox and center bearing mount as its suggested in the pdf. cheers

hi, on the engine mounts for the rb30. im using the r33 rb25de intake pleninum. i just want to confirm what i need to do to make the motor clear my bonnet as i think its going to be a close fit. do i use rb25de engine mounts? and lower it by how much on each side? will i get to keep my strut brace? or is it easyer to just redesign it to fit? i did a search but i keep getting differnt answers.

damn thats a pretty hard out fuel system. i wonder how much of mine i will have to upgrade when i put the rb30 in. iv got a rb25de fuel pump for the mo. good luck dude. are you sure you have good enough gearing to get to 240kph?

ok rebuild price update. looking somewhere between $2500 and $3000 thats with a new clutch in there aswell. mm i probly should have keepd the rb30e pistons so i can go turbo later on live and learn i guess. part of the major cost is the oil seals on the crank had a deep grove in them so they had to be welded up and smoothed. piston rings cost $300 yeah its true how they say get an esitimate of the cost then double it... i should have shopped around for a price on getting the work done but i thought it was a good price when he first said it...

i will do cams and computer later on when i can afford. im going to be almost broke once the engine is rebuilt i found out today. its going to cost about $1700 plus parts. so im guessing about $2000-$2200 that work is: ballancing crank 150ish, some crank grind thing on the ends so it dont piss out oil 300ish i think. the rb25de pistons swapped on to the rb30e rods $66 flywheel skimmed and clutch fitted, not sure bores honed $72 , piston groves machined and the long block assembeled. $580 there is more but i cant rember anymore. (note these are quoted prices so im hoping that it will end up being cheeper then what they have said.) parts that there supplying. rb30e head gasket, bottom end gaskets, new piston rings. cam belt idler and tensiner and a few other misc things if i had better skills and more trust in myself then it would have been alot cheeper to rebuild the motor. but then i dont want it blowing up on me a few thousand ks down the road. so all up its looking like this will be costing me $4500-$5000 but i will have virtually a new engine and gearbox. comparing to putting a rb25det in the cost is less then it by im guessing about $1000-$2000 and if it was rb30det then im saving about the same if not more. then i would have a motor that you can never be sure of what is up with it. once its all finished i know if it was worth it or not. oh well im gona have a unique car in the end and im still going to love it

yup i also new that the pin hight is differnt but not by alot. i would run 11.5 compression but then i would most probly have to run 98 octain fuel and that is getting harder and harder to find here plus it costs 4cents a ltr more then 95 octain. plus wont that increase gas usage? yeah im planning on getting new piston rings. ill let the engine place sort that out for me tho. you should be able to buy new rings easy enough tho? wouldnt they be the same from the rb25det as well? ill let you know how much they cost if i get new ones. lucky i hadnt already pulled the rings off the pistons. Don what spark plugs are you using?

haha yeah i wish i had too... live and learn i guess. the sunburn on my lower back made driving painfull for the next week or 2 haha. hopfully when i get my custom rb30 extractors ill heat wrap them before fitting too.

ok guys heres the pics of all the parts im taking up to the engine reconditioners tomorow or the day after minus the gearbox. you can see the braded hose for the VVT. they gave me an approximate price of $580 for labour to build plus the cost of parts so im budgeting about a grand. or if i get them to do the clutch as well a little more then that. the top set of pistons are rb25 and the bottom set are rb30. here is a pic of the difference in the piston crowns. they need to be cleaned tho. hopfully i dont have to wait too long on the parts to come as i want to get started on putting the motor in my car soon

damn that fuel consumtion wont be too bad then. thats about what i get now off my rb20e. this motor will be going in to this car in the pic. need a respectiable motor to make it a good car. its possibly the first rb30de in NZ and one of the first rb30s in to a r33 skyline in NZ too.

haha yeah it woulda been awesome if nissan had done that factory. cheers mate. yeah that sounds exactly like what im doing. my complete rb25de with computer and loom only cost me 500 tho then i sold that head for $150 to a mate. cheers. yeah i have a lot more things to consider once i get it up and running as ill have to do that before i go to a GTSlink computer. i wont have to have an AFM with that computer. that 2 throttle body thing is definatly trick. i like it and id do it if i had the skills and tools. for your extractors did you have to grind down the water gallarie lump on the side of the block? or is it a better idea to have the extractor flange modifyed? thanks, geoff yeah when are you going to put yours on the dyno? have you fixd that problem you have? or you just going to build a new motor? also how much did your cam belt cost you? i can get the dyco one for $70 delieverd.

it still has something to do with rb30.. the title is r33 rb30 conversion.. so it is related to me. it was mainly just to get a quick and definatant answer thanks sydneykid . iv heard alot of great stuff about you and your advice is always great

yeah stock is somthing like 9.0 or 9.5 from memory. yeah it should be great and should be a huge step up from my rb20e. thanks for the support guys. its so hard to find people to support a N/A rb30. im keen to see the results too. i got a price to get the long block assembled today. but ill have a shop around and ill decide early next week im a fan of turbos too, got nothing agaist them. i just like the smooth power of N/A. plus im not ready for the huge power of a turbo... or having the money for insurance and gas... haha its $146.9 for a ltr or 95 octaine fuel here now

hey guys. im building an rb30de. and i bought a rb20det gearbox thinking that it would bolt right in and use the same speedo drive and keep the same speedo reading cus the gearbox numbers are the same. its to go in to an r33 with a rb20e. and i just found out yesterday that the rb20det box is mechanical drive for the speedo and the r33 is electrical drive. is there anything that i can do to make this work my speedo? or will it all just plug in? i havnt taken the motor out yet. i just want to have souluitions to any problems i may have. thanks, geoff

ok well the engine hasnt been rebuilt just yet but looking at getting it done in a week or so. the only real difference in keeping it N/A verse turbo in the cost is the differnt donar motor i used and the rb25de pistons i bought off a mate for $100. the fact i used a r33 head would have addded to the cost cus i would have got it rebuilt but i got lucky with the head. so in theroy i have only spent the extra $100 on a long block in keeping the motor N/A. but im also saving 2grand on no turbo and 800 on a gearbox cus i bought a rebuilt rb20det one for $750 um for the power figures. im looking for about 140rwkw at the start once allthe problems are ironed out. if there is any. i heard rb30es are about 100rwkw with light mods and there is a 40% power increase with the twin cam head so thats what im working off and then ill aim for more with an aftermarket computer and cams etc.

sweet as. im just sick of people taking the shit outa me cus im non turbo and im building a non turbo engine. thats all. sorry if i stepped on anybodys toes. yeah it effectively produces the power more efficiantly. as we all know skylines run excessivly ritch with fuel. as you do more mods the air/fuel is leaned out with basic mods so you gain power the extra fuel is used to help keep the cylinders colder so less chance of detonation etc. when you hear about people running lean or using low octain fuel they get detonation due to the extra heat inside the cylinder due to the lack of cooling from the petrol/octaine causing the gas to explode at the wrong time this is what i have read and been told. so it might be wrong but it seems to make sence to me. i have found a way to make my car run leaner and i found it has made it run quite a bit better. how come my mate with 275+rwkw gts25t skyline gets 500ks off a tank when he is thrashing it the hole time? that has a gt35/40 turbo, fmic, injectors, fuel pump, cams and more. i think its just due to the tune he has on his power fc computer so i think that tuneing/servicing/mantinance is the key to getting good fuel miliage

i guess this teaches me for posting when im half asleep. meh im outa this. too meny "its gota be boosted to be a skyline" guys on this thread. N/As arnt that bad. well with the exception of the rb20e thats just shit. but the other 5% of driving when your on boost is where all your gas gos quick