skylinecouple

Wow, great work. Really appreciate when people do their own mods and rebuilds. Hope progress is continuing at a good pace. Can never have enough photos. I did my rebuild the easy way, keep it in the garage and don't drive it much. I happen to love the 33's. Mine is mint but would like to stitch weld and brace the chassis after 25 years.

Yep. Dodgy alarm would be what I was thinking. Had that happen. Tap the alarm a few times. Also, Battery cable from battery itself. Wiggle it.

Jeepers, 8 range plugs ? Very cold. Should foul beautifully. Nothing wrong with power FC. I'm with GTSBOY, fuel cut ?

I've just realized how old we are all getting. I still remember reading about Lithium's project years ago. SO Lithium, you driving a Mazda 3 ? Hee hee.

Good to see somebody take the time to do it himself. It's not the end product (well.....maybe), it's the journey. I'll be watching this one.

Wow, that went downhill fast. I haven't been on here much but really miss the respect. Anyhow, for a simple connection just run a 16mm hose off the pigtail hose that goes to your inlet. Run some wire inside the short pigtail shaped hose and you will find a restrictor. Deleting the restriction is one of the reasons people have too much oil being sucked in to their air/oil separator. On a stock turbo too much oil fumes is not a problem. Once you add a bigger turbo obviously there is more suction, therefore more oil being sucked into the inlet, separator/catch can or not. The restriction must stay in place. Connect this new hose to the inlet of your oil/air separator. Now connect the the outlet of your oil/air separator to the intake. Done. Hardest part is finding space in the engine bay. Also, notice the use of the words 'air/oil separator. Not catch tank. Yes, I know people will roast you for not doing a search but we are all here to help. As my Old Man used to say, 'not asking questions is what makes you an idiot'.

Definitely watching.

If you hold the cat to the light and you can't see through it at all but can barely see some light then the cat is possibly a 300 cell. It sounds like you won't be able to use a 100 cell cat which is best for free flow. European laws I know are very strict but there are ways. For instance, try a 200 cell cat and this should flow enough for the power you are after. The size of the body is crucial so go with a 5" or a minimum 4" cat body. Don't worry, it will still heat up especially after you full throttle it once or twice. After that it should maintain the heat and therefore the efficiency. 400hp would be a good start for the ring. Skylines have short gearing for tracks like that so maybe look at what differential gears others have tried especially if you go over 400hp. Maybe a 3.7 would be better. And hey, glad to see the tire change. Good choice. Yes, 700cc injectors are a good choice. Easy enough to tune. As for turbo choice, that's where it starts to get hard. Even the slow corners there are pretty fast so again, I would get something a little bigger. For a low stress engine and to reach the 400hp try the proven GT3076 internal wastegate. Use the .82 hot side. T3 of course. Yes, the dump pipe will have to be fabricated. However, why not have a look at HyperGear Turbochargers. Something to bolt on without any mods to the dump. If mods don't bother you go Gt3076, keep boost at 18lbs, add cams. 3.5inch dump and 3" exhaust. This should keep the engine from over revving, free up the exhaust flow and an overall good track package. Check every ball joint, nut, bolt and clip. These cars are old. Replace wheel bearings if any doubt about their age. I was at the Ring years ago and would like to take my car there but never going to happen. Work, work, work. But to be flat out on one of the fastest straights in the world, wow, what an experience.

So what's happening. You pulled your teeth out ready for a gummy then stopped. What a tease !!

Totally agree with finding a tuner and asking him (her ?) what engine management system they are happy with. Personally, I'd prefer to get a stand alone system I can play with for track days in case of temperature changes, fuel changes, load, speed & just because. I have a Power FC due to ease of use and because I just can't stop tuning and playing with different fuels, exhaust & turbos. It's fun. Beats listening to music. Yes, that is a small turbo and will most likely cause problems at wide open throttle on the longer sections. So many things to check for best thrills. Exhaust size from turbo to tail pipe including cat. If it isn't heating up it probably flows well enough but 3" all the way through as a minimum. Injectors need to be 700cc as a compromise for tuning ease or 1000cc if using E85 or similar fuel. Tires & brakes are far more important than power which is why I would like to see a free revving engine (exhaust) and enough fuel for the long straights (injectors/tuning). Check your fuel pump, it's probably 25 years old as is your fuel lines. Get some good coil-overs with 8kg front/6kg rear as a starting point. Then Tires, got to be worth 5 seconds a lap just with tires at the Ring. And for a huge leap in predictable handling get rid of every rubber bush in the suspension. Solid mount or urethane the differential and while your there get a 1.5 way. Learn to do things yourself rather than a shop or this may be an extremely expensive experience.

No logical way to fix this. Sealing off the baffles just stops oil vapor as well. Only thing to do, as a simple fix, is to get some course, heatproof foam as per HKS baffle filters. Tip, the internet has some interesting options. Clark Rubber also had some good products a couple of years ago. If you were to completely fill the baffle area with similar material as per standard baffle this would also slow down the amount of oil going to the intake. The only way to go better than that is to have a catch can that drains back to the sump. I've cured mine years ago by doing the above, extra material in the baffle. When I check the small pipe going to the intake it is usually dry now. A catch can that collects oil mist but feeds back to the turbo intake is not really efficient. NO oil before the turbo intake is what we are after. Unfortunately with the average Skyline, regardless of model, once you have a bigger turbo or more boost or both there is far more suction from the valve covers. Standard baffling is easily over powered in this instance.

Looks great. Couple of good polishes and it will look like Darth's helmet. Don't go too dark on window tinting. Makes it cop bait. Black paint, black tint, black tyres. It's all a bit much.

A friend bought a Daihatsu something or other which came from the factory as an auto. Brake pedal had the same problem. To the left. He had just been down the shop to get oil in his normal car as he was doing an oil change on the Daihatsu. Got in the little bastard after topping up the oil, put it in reverse and smashed the accelerator to the floor thinking it was the brake. Trouble is, he had the drivers door open at the time and it hooked onto the fence beside the driveway. Broke the fence, bent the door hinges, crushed the door itself and rammed the car behind him, his car. You may get used to the pedal but it's not funny when somebody else drives it. Well, in the Daihatsu it was, but not any other time. Just thought I'd ask, have you decided on a colour if you paint it ? Black is good but damn, hard to keep clean or shiny. What was the original colour ?

I remember years ago we converted a XYGT Falcon from auto to manual and after driving a manual in my own car I didn't test how the pedals feel. So we finished the job, original brake pedal from the auto still in place. Trouble is, I hadn't gotten used to the pedal placement as the clutch was in the same place as my car. We were heading out to Penrith, long before the roads had stop lights at the intersection of The great western Highway and Mamre Road, and as I came to the stop sign I put my foot on the accelerator instead of the brake because the brake pedal was so far to the left. We flew across the Great Western Highway at close to 100kph and hit absolutely nothing on a Saturday afternoon with traffic everywhere. Change the brake pedal.

Listen to somebody who has spent more money on cars than you could ever dream of. The car you have will be everything you want it to be if you just stick to it. They are a great chassis and the suspension is ahead of most cars from early 2000 so the only difference between your car and and a truly fast, safe car is the components that make them that way. Get good suspension, tyres, brakes but most of all read everything on these forums and do it right. Oh, and power of course but only if the engine is up to it. About 270 to 300rwkw is where most people would be happy. If you are young, then now is the time to try an engine rebuild or paint the car yourself or change suspension etc. Youtube is your friend.

Gearbox sold. Will post more parts shortly.

Adrian, bad news, engine sold. I have an RB25 DET series 2 that I cooked miles from the nearest water. You would have to do a full rebuild on that one. Not a NEO though, sorry. Gearbox still available.

Just removed from my R33 GTST is a gearbox rebuilt 12 months ago but couldn't find a 2nd gear syncro so had to put it back together. Just put in a brand new box' so this one has to go. Has slight crunch into 2nd when cold. Hardly notice when warm. Everything else is fine. All new bearings and seals done when rebuilt. May rebuild it again but available now for $800. RB25 Neo engine from R34 GTT. 235,000kms. Removed from wife's car 12 months ago and was going to put in my R33 but will finish the RB30 for that. Runs perfectly. Only took it out as we were offered a very new engine for a bargain price. Couldn't resist. Whole engine from turbo to throttle body and engine cover included. Never boosted or driven hard as we are both over 50. Always serviced every 5,000kms. $1,200. PM me as I will check the forum regularly or just SMS Gary -0412662337.

Replace the hose coupling on the firewall as soon as you can. The two made of plastic. When they get old they don't leak, they explode. And because the water disappears so fast the temperature gauge doesn't have time to register the skyrocketing temperature. You look at the gauge and it seems fine because only measuring air temperature. Result ? Kboom !

God help us if hot rodders had the same negative attitude some people on here have. We wouldn't have any of the cars or products we have today. We'd still be bolting on an air filter & exhaust and thinking how hot we are. Somebody, somewhere has to have a fresh idea and move forward to complete it. I would be very surprised if help couldn't be found from the Castlemaine Rod Shop or any experienced Hotrod shop. I remember when Peter at Advan Performance put a V8 into his GTR. They said it couldn't be done, crap. Ok, so he sold it before it was finished but he was pretty busy at the time. Making any engine fit is no problem with enough fabrication and if you have knowledge or friends or associates with knowledge then go forward, be the 1st, what a car it would be.

Hey Dennis, try turning your idle air screw counter clockwise till the engine starts to rev higher. Then turn it clockwise one full turn. Sometimes people fool around with this screw and it can cause major idle issues as you have described. Another possible fix could be to lean off the fuel under 800rpm but this depends on the tune in that area so may not help. I am always concerned about changes to the blow off valve as this usually always causes issues. Make sure it is plumbed back.

I can agree with some that this turbo has definitely run out of puff. A boost leak check would go a long way to seeing if this was the case. after that we can assume the compressor has done all it can. We could guesstimate for hours but really, it is what it is. If you need any help with the Profec when you install it let me know. Mine has done well for around 10 years now. Will bring boost on earlier and help to hold it. I haven't read the entire post but have you got an 18lb wastegate actuator ? This will be a must with the smaller exhaust housing. From here there is only E85. A must for smaller exhaust housings where top end timing is limited. I've never been a fan of smaller turbine/compressor setups as boost comes on too quickly and results in instant wheel spin. Good for slower drifting courses though. Not so good for real horse power/ torque that gets the car moving in the higher gears. should be a hoot at the traffic lights though as my 3071 is on boost instantly so yours should be even faster.

Bit of a worry if you started out with full oil and then had none. Plugs probably fouled on so much oil going into combustion chamber. Have you tried new plugs then restart ? As stated, fuel & ignition. Check compression, oil in turbo intake. Oil had to go somewhere. even the exhaust would have oil in it to lose that much so quickly.

I can save you the trouble of further investigation. It's the blinker mechanism. I've gone through two of them. Once the blinker stalk smokes it's finished. There must be something about the inner workings that fails and causes a short. Get a 2nd hand one and away you go. A new one would be even better. Something that may interest you is the blinker relay under the dash. A square box with three wires. That's where your ticking comes from, quite normal. Be aware that the relay can go from time to time and may have been replaced by a universal relay. Some relays are 2 wire and others 3, one being an earth. Replace the relay with an original 3 wire relay and a new stalk, problem fixed. I did it myself but an auto electrician will put it in for you cheap. Read the tutorial to remove the column cover and remove the screws holding the stalk. I can't remember what else there is as it hasn't needed replacing for years.

Ab-so-bloody-lutely !! DON'T trust anybody. ALL mechanics or anybody in the auto industry cannot be trusted. Stand there, watch them, all day if necessary. Remember, most of these guys were talking in class when they were at school or drawing cars in their school books. If they were smart they'd be vets or doctors. Ok, so maybe I'm over exaggerating, but you get the drift. Save your money, buy tools. Is there anything more satisfying than doing some work on your car and it turns out way better than any mechanic could have done yet didn't cost you $900 or $3,000 or heaven forbid $10,000 ?