skylinecouple

OK, so do I take my R33 GTST or my R34 GTT ? The 33 has the most work but it is supposed to be an R34 day. If it's just cruisin' I guess the 34 as it's automatic.

I'm with nisskid on that one. Hope you have good mates that work for snags on buttered rolls.

I have 225x17 on the front with Proxy 4's and 255 on the back with federal 595's. Hard to say how good they are as need the same tyre all round to give a good opinion. So I'll try anyway. The Proxy's are very good over the Hankook K104's I had previously, in fact, there is no comparison. The Hankooks would understeer badly in the rain and dry unless really warmed up. The 595's on the back are better than the Hankooks for grip in a straight line but MUCH better around corners. As an aside, have you priced the T1R Toyo's ? They are a very good tyre for the money. Though the 595's are the best for value.

Oh yes, disconnect the drain to the turbo and place a container underneath, then disconnect your coils and get someone to turn the key for a few seconds till oil flows out the drain tube. As soon as you see the oil flow turn it off. DO NOT start the car with the oil drain disconnected. You will not beleive how much oil an RB can pump in three seconds.

Take your oil lines off and blow them out with air. You could run a prefilter on the turbo feed line but lets face it, if your turbo gets dirty oil then your engine is to. Either way your screwed.If the turbo failed from lack of oil then it will have seized bearings, scorched shaft, heaps of play or little bits of metal inside it, or all of the obove but I highly doubt it. Just blow the lines out for peace of mind. New copper washers.

I have 4" inlet from AFM and only noticed you can't just take your foot off the pedal and slip it into neutral without it wanting to stall. It doesn't of course because it has anti stall built into the PFC. So I take my foot off the accelerator in gear then slip it into neutral and is fine. This could be normal for bigger turbos I've often heard of it happening.

That turbo from guilt toy looks good, especially for an auto. Remember though, might mean a quick end to your box. But if you were to keep the boost down till you can beef the box up then that would be a great investment for the future. Just a matter of how much comes with the turbo,ie: lines, dump, inlet, etc. Hi-flow would be easier but 250kws is where it starts to be fun so I know which one would be better.

If your car is an auto then don't get carried away with power over 220kws as gearbox will set you beck more than any turbo. Even 220kws is too much, look at the auto threads and see if I'm wrong. Then again, go the 3076 internal gate for a $3000 setup and get the box built to suit and you will have any manual for breakfast at any traffic light duel. Otherwise buy my GCG hi-flow for $350 or my 32,000k standard R33 turbo for $300.

This is exactly the type of nonsense I'm talking about. Start with a solid diff that has had the bushes flogged out of it over 10 or even 15 years and work your way out. Stop following the same old advice. Sydney kid is right of course but only if you have the diff tied down tight in the first place. Did the Skylines have bad axel tramp when they let the factory ? No, they didn't. So if a brand new car with soft suspension didn't why would the same car with more pwer to spin the wheels and better (stiffer) suspension have teeth rattling tramp now !

OK, so if the engine stops then the power steering stops to, so I'd say the engine stalled as you braked around the corner which means you may have the same problem the wife's car has which is when the fuel goes below 1/4 tank it will stall around corners. Check your fuel level and let me know. The ticking is normal. Simply a combination of valves and injectors.

Yes Denis those spring rates seem stock to me. However, do the research and find out for yourself. Try Whiteline and Pedders. By the way, Someone like Slide in the sales forum might be able to get some Jap springs designed for your car. My set up I really liked was the King standard lows with KYB Exel-G shocks which are slightly stiffer than standard but much cheaper than Bilsteins. Put these with the whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear and all the bushes to correct camber and castor, pineapples and diff bushes and you will have a weapon of a car. Put the front bar on the 2nd hole from the end and rear bar same ie: hard setting. Handling is flat as a tack and simply will not lose grip unless you really provoke it. If you go too low be prepared to get a yellow sticker on your windscreen and besides, too low will not give you a fast road car but a fast track car and the difference would be negligable on the track anyway. The last thing you will want is to hit a large dip in the road half way round a fast corner and end up jumping a meter across the road. THAT's why the RTA and the rest don't allow it, common sense really.

Yes the red ones. They merely replace the originals but are much stiffer and if you already have had diff replacement then you have been flogging the bushes every time you dropped the clutch or accelerate then decelerate. Be carefull because some mechanics are good at convincing you to only put the front ones in but only because they are too lazy to take diff out. Besides, you can do it yourself. Even if you just do the front ones I'll bet there is a difference.

Can we please just see the babes. Seriously, just the babes. You know, the ones with a couple of brickies trowels worth of makeup and flatter than a surf board. Oh, and tatts, gotta' have tatts. You know you want it. You all go on about the cars and you can't face the truth, you only buy Skylines to pull the chicks. There, I said it. Can't take it can ya' ? Next time we see Adrian he'll be leaning up against the Boost office wall looking at the traffic over his Gucci sunglasses and complete black matching ensemble hand picked from the Armani catalogue. His car will be the next project car with 22" rims and multi-coloured wetsuit material for the interior. What a pimp. He won't see this of course, he's too busy getting his front teeth gold capped. Can someone do a test on blow off vales. Which is truely the loudest? Which has more flutter ?, the chicks dig it. Seriously ? We should all be lucky to have an enthusiast behind the lines so to speak. Hopefully Adrian you will bring back the honesty the mag started off with and hang out with club cars, sports sedans, rally cars time attack and yes, even drag cars. What we don't need is to see another $150,000 GTR with 19's. How about building a oil/air separator that actually does it's job and can be done in the garage or at least the parts made and somebody can weld it up. Do spark amplifiers really give you better fuel consumption and power ? What's better, new bushes or new shocks and springs ? I still cherish the first real turbo change story on a R33 with a 2540 Garrett and it made 210rwkws but no engine management. Having been in a similar position like yours though, I somehow doubt you may have the time to chase up the fiddley stuff. I wish you well, do your best and we'll keep buying the mag. By the way, I have every copy in mint condition of every Zoom and HPI. One day when I'm 170 years old they'll be worth at least a dollar each. Regards, Gary.

Most springs you have heard of like King or Lovell's or whiteline Eibach, Pedders are all good. I think my King standard lows were 3.5kg rear and 4.5kg front, but thats a R33. I find them a little soft and think the 4.5kg rear and 5.5kg front would be better. So I guess what I'm saying is get the King springs or Lovell's but ask for thei standard low but one kilo heavier. The wife's R34 has Tein super streets and I love them. Wish they fit my car cause she wouldn't know the difference. They are stiffer than the king springs and the shock control is near perfection.

I have the yellow urethane ones but I have often wanted to try the alloy. From my way of thinking the pinapples are designed to change the pinion angle mostly to help the rear end squat or lose traction for your particular motorsport. The alloy ones are for locking the subframe and stop lateral or front to rear movement when cornering, stopping or accellerating. I had an idea where I could put the required pinapples in to help the car squat and the alloy ones on the other two locating points to stop lateral movement. Take my advice with the diff bushes, I have said this before, NO axle tramp. Diff bushes are from Unique autosport and pinapples anywhere really. The sponsors here on the forums are the best place to start.

From personal experience those Bilsteins are valved way too hard for standard springs. Better suited to King or other stiffer springs. As most will agree, mismatched suspension parts are just as bad as the original worn out suspension. I have a feeling the springs are allowing the shocks to move too quickly and since the shocks are valved to have more resistance per millimeter travelled with stiffer springs they are resisting the fast movement which comes across as a harsh ride. However, those shocks should easily control those springs and not cause a loss of traction. This would bring us back to the bump stop issue, ah, wait a minute, you said you lowered the springs two cm's. Ok, so perhaps now with a weak spring that is designed to travel a certain distance is now 20mm shorter and allowing the shocks to bottom out regardless of shortened bump stops. By the way, I can tell you two of the most important things. Good wheel alignment will transform traction problems. I know because I wasn't too impressed with my shock, spring and bush changes till the alignment was done and it all just started working well. The other is the pinapple installation in the squat position. Car just sits on the road like glue now. 264rwkw's and it just takes off like a scolded cat.

If you need a nother turbo I have a hi-flow and a standard turbo with a genuine 32,000k's. Just in case. Gary. 0412662337 - Sydney.

I'd have to agree. Pineapples in the squat position are the best thing to do. I have also added Unique Autosport diff bushes and have eliminated it all together. Has nothing to do with springs and shocks. I chased that crappy idea for a year before deciding to start at the diff and go from there. Lucky for me that made a huge difference and the pineapples fixed the rest.

If anybody watched Top Gear on Monday night and saw the actor who drove the well priced car around the circuit and Clarkeson asking about a string of 911 Porches he had owned. As they were chatting about his string of cars he admitted he new bugger all about them and on one occasion was driving his brand new 944 he had picked up the day before, realising he didn't like it he stopped off at the Porche dealership and got another 911. He couldn't tell Clarkeson what model it was and the only one he could remember was the one he was actually driving to the interview. He couldn't even tell if any of them had been a turbo or RS or wide body. My point ? If someone knows nothing about a particular car and still can't find the time to read enough to at least make some kind of considered opinion as to how it operates then does he deserve ownership ? Of course he does. That's what money is for. I wonder though why there are no longer any genuine GT Falcons left. GTR XU1's ? E49 chargers ? Because they, (like our Skylines will eventually be) were thrashed, crashed and neglected by people who never took five minute's to learn even the basics of maintainance before asking how their engine blew up. But hey, stuff it, it's just a bloody car after all. I shall now don my fire suit. Let the flaming begin.

I have made a front tray from the leading edge of the front spoiler to the standard under tray. Used 1.6mm alloy sheet which sits inside the lip in the bottom of the spoiler and covers the entire width of the car. This is bolted in using existing holes and clip nuts as is often used for sheet materials. At the rear it is bolted using 10mm bolts in existing bolt holes. I don't know about drag but I can assure you there is less wind noise at anything above 80kph. In fact, I can carry on a normal volume conversation now since this mod and removing the rediculous sun visors from the windows.

Maybe an EVO GTA is coming soon. Guess that means we won't be skylinecouple any more, is this an infringement of forum policy ? Took one for a drive and let me tell you they are the ultimate track weapon. Fuel consumption can be savage though. To drive they are medium suspenion where it seems to soak up the pot holes yet sits flat around corners. And yes it will remain standard. I am not particularly impressed with the way it goes but it isn't for me so standard it stays.

Would you have any photos of the engine or interior ? We have to replace the wife's car and pretty quickly to.

Well, a couple of weeks ago the wife was driving back from Sydney and was going into the M5 tunnel at Botany when the stop barrier in the center island of the road came across and hit the late model Merc in front of her and with the rain and other cars involved there was no hope of saving it. The cooler was jamed tight into the front of the engine and everything forward of it was buggered. End result ? Writeoff. This was probably the cleanest series one in the land with TV & CD player. She is as you would expect very sad. We are now on the hunt for a replacement. So if anyone is in the know of a very clean series 2 or R34 Automatic please feel free to PM. We have around $15,000 to spend.

Just my opinion but since I have the genuine 3071 with .82 turbine housing I would suggest going the 3076. This is the proper turbo for the RB25 engine. The 3071 at the moment will make 264rwkws but to go more I am in the process of installing a cam gear to move the power further up the rev range and modifying the dump pipe for less restriction. Then going 3.5" exhaust instead of 3". The reason I mention this is because everything has to be just right when the compressor is nearing the end of it's efficientcy. Go the bigger compressor in the 3076 and never have to worry again.

Those flairs on the original post are just beautiful. Would add immensely to track width and therefore tyre grip. But I guess for all the gay boys out there that like the poofy little ones on the purple car, well, they aren't flairs boys. Sort of like having a bonnet scoop that isn't actually sitting over a hole in the bonnet. Just glued on for the wank factor. Sorry.