skylinecouple

You asked for a kit and got a kit. Quit complaining. Ok, well, it isn't obviously for a GTR but hey, it's a kit right ? I to have bought kits before and let me tell you unless your tongue is hanging out the left side of your mouth and your using a left handed screw driver it isn't going to work. I did four years of university to learn this so I can't be wrong. Clearly there are other flaws in your mechanical skills. Did you lubricate the mechanic with the appropriate beverages, ie: beer, bourbon or mud shakes ? Some of these air filter and intake kits need to have the motor pulled for clearance while using chinese spanners, you do realise you can't install a chinese kit wthout chinese spanners don't you ? Please dear God in heaven you did use chinese spanners ? Really, I don't know some times. You guys kill me. You think you know it all but your just fooling yourslves. Did you at least have a flee bitten blue heeler under the car licking his bollocks while scratching his ear with his back foot ? You do see my point here don't you ? I hope so because I can't.

Dave: Sounds like I could modify it to suit if you really want to pass it over for a small fee. Are you sure it will fit my turbine housing ? Trouble is the pipe is still 3" and I really need to go 3.5" all the way with 4" off the housing. Let me know if you want to get it gone and maybe I could use the first 8". ( sounds like my wife). Disco: So exhaust cam may be the answer and I'm thinking to add a little overlap with cam gear and see what happens. If absolutely nothing, and I doubt it, then try inlet and exhaust cams just to free up the whole shooting match. Hey, if nothing else I should be able to add some timing. Cubes: 280rwkws sounds very good to me. Though I doubt the end numbers would tell the whole story. I would expect torque to be stronger from 2,500rpm til redline. Should be a little crisper to. Looks like some fine tuning is needed so might as well roll up the sleaves and get it done.

Your a gentleman Dave. How different is the dump you have compared to mine which is to suit a Garrett five bolt pattern as per the ATP U.S. site ? In other words what would have to be modified as I'm pretty handy with a welder. I am looking for a 3" dump and 2" wastegate pipe or a 4" bellmouth and from memory I think your was the former with wastegate pipe. I believe this is where my restriction may be as mine is a bellmouth with the wastegate feeding into the main pipe within 8". I have a splitter welded in but I just know there isn't enough gentle transition so has to be causing turbulance and not enough flow. Only by maximizing exhaust efficiency can I be sure of any shortcomings with the turbo.

What I'd like to know is, is this really all my compressor has. I have a feeling that because the larger housing is so efficient at removing exhaust gas it is also making the comp unable to flow enough air. Does anyone think it strange that no matter how hard I wind the boost over 18lbs it will not make any more power ? Ok, now I have a non laggy crisp loves to rev combination, but, what if I change cams and nothing. What if I redo the whole exhaust to 3.5" and it simply won't flow any more. Should I have got the 3076 ? Would it be any laggier ? Questions questions. Time to live up to my own motto, suck it and see. ( no not the homo type suck, that's just rude). Oh, and another question, Should I just get a cam wheel and try that first ? I think it strange that I can still feel the revs slowing down around 5,700rpm. Feels like there's more there but the motor can't process it. These turbos are running 22lbs elsewhere so how do I increase my efficientcy ? What's more important, bearing in mind the turbo combination, is it the intake or exhaust cam. Do I need to evacuate the exhaust better or get more air in ?

Forgot to mention I had too little tension on the actuator and this was causing loss of boost but all ok now. Only loses 1lb at the top end but this is one of two things, comp running out of flow or cams can't flow enough air. Who cares, enough power now so happy and will only change these stock cams if I get bored. Which shouldn't be too long. Can't help it. Your right Disco, I think Joel would be surprised at how a bigger exhaust housing would allow his compressor to flow more. Not just at the top end but through the entire rev range as I have found. I will never buy another turbo combination that has big compressor and restrictive turbine housing in the belief this will give me response. Actually, for Joel a 3582 1.06 housing would be perfect. Do they make this combo ? By the way, Matt says in his vast experience if I go from 3" to 3.5 or 4" dump and 3.5 all the way to the rear I would gain some more top end, around ten killer wasps. Well, I can sort of see what he means as the dump is only a bell mouth going into 3" then 3" all the way. Maybe for fun I'll do both cams and whole new exhaust to play some more.

I really would agree with disco and Nismoid. The turbo you have is good enough for 260 or 280 with cams. The only down side is the wrong choice of turbine housing. .63 is just too small. Mine is the .82 genuine 3071 with 60mm turbine wheel and 264 is what it makes. Yes, the 3076 is even better from what I have read but see if you can find a .82 housing and swap it over. Of course if you get the waste gate welded and go with a 44mm external that would be even better. And I know most will agree with me this combiation will give you all you need. The compressor is well cabable in the 71mm .50A/R form to flow 400hp so the choice is there. But yes, the 3076 is the best option as it will just be a case of removing the old and replacing with new.

Just thought I would give an update on an old thread. The setup has been in now for a little while and I must say it took a little patience with tuning to get the best from it. Have recently gone back to The Hitman for a tune as Yavus wasn't available. He put a fair amount of time into it and I must say it is just fantastic. Interestingly, I found there was a slight miss at idle and checked every vacume hose and fuel line as well as spark plugs but no problem there. Matthew aka: Hitman was slightly puzzled as the engine is very healthy. I am only talking about a very almost inaudible miss. Over the next few days I remembered having to screw in the Idle air control screw on the rear of the manifold to get the car to idle properly as it was revving too high going back a year or two ago. This was after croydon tuned it, enough said. So I started winding out the screw and low and behold, the car comes to life. Seriously, Comes onto boost at 3,000rpm hard. Almost as responsive as my GCG hi-flow. Off boost is simply amazing as there always seems to be some power as long as your over 2,000rpm. It confounds me why making the idle leaner by four full turns has made such a difference considering it has been tuned for the right air from idle. I'd be keen to hear any ideas or theories. Fuel consumption seems to be in general around 400k's for city with one or two expressway runs for say 30mins. On a trip I can expect 500k's easy. Flooring it in second is useless and you have to be perfectly straight in third to hook up, slightly turning the wheel will result in more smoke. Throttle control out of corners is my best friend but thats where the .82 housing really helps. Just makes it a little more controllable. I don't know how anybody with a .63 housing could enjoy coming on to boost so early. Clearly with the response this housing has the .82 is the ideal turbine housing for the RB25. I was so tempted to go with the 3076 and even ordered one but now am happy with 264rwkws and instant boost.

I have had my Skyline for six years and up till 120,000k's it did this on a regular basis. After a couple of days it will start working again or maybe a week who knows. On one occassion it didn't work for two weeks and then I started it after filling up and it spun the dials till it caught up with the k's I'd done. I was amazed when that happened. Also, your tacho may stop working intermittantly but will start on it's own. If you have had a unichip or PFC installed this is usually the culprit as wires have been tampered with especially with the unichip. With the tacho just take ECU out and put back just enough to move wires around. Of course like me you need to at some stage go through all wiring at the ECU and check for faults then resolder and heat shrink wrap.

I had them on my car for 5 years and finally decided I needed a change. I took them off and cleaned up the mess with soapy steal wool. Bear in mind I have the four door so there is a chrome strip they are stuck to. Anyhow, took them all off as there are four and what a difference. The car looks more modern and no annoying wind noise. Much quieter on the expressway. Plus the clips do get loose and now no tiny little rattles.

Your intercooler is superior to the GTR in flow. Have a look inside the GTR cooler and see how small the tubes are, for the life of me I don't know how they make the power. Mind you I'm not talking about cooling ability here as those same small tubes allow the cooler to scrub more heat out of the air. I just think for a street car that only uses small bursts of power that flow is more important since your chasing throttle response and power. I noticed a crisper throttle response from the Hybrid cooler when I changed it over from the Just Jap cooler. Seemed to have more torque and ran smoother in general and it wasn't just me as Luis from Drift Garage noticed the same thing.

Trying to diagnose a problem like this is next to impossible. Go to Dirt garage or try Up Garage in Ingleburn. Call Luis on 0404081116. He builds great engines. He is in the same complex as Otomoto so if you decide to replace the engine with stock then they can get you a good one. He also did my turbo conversion as he a wizz with alloy or any fabrication work. Builds drift cars for a living. Look, I'm having trouble accepting your kws with the lack of injectors or with that turbo. Everything would have been pushed to the max or over it. The end result is obvious. When he tuned it did he push the car on the dyno with continued runs to check for heat transfer and the need to reduce timing ? Or did he do a 4th gear run with a bit more load on the dyno to simulate road conditions ? He may be a good tuner, I don't know but he broke your car, that's all we know, walk away. How far are you from Sydney ? Could you tow it to one of the many people here that could fix it right ? Think about this. Rebuild: $6,000. Install: $1,000. But still same turbo, no injectors. Low k engine: $2,000. Install $1,000. Injectors $400-800. Decent turbo $2,000-4,000. For a little more you could really make something special with reliability. Go the second hand engine, you know you want to. There is a Skyline in the Drift Series that has been making over 300kws for the whole season. It's all in the tune. Go for it.

Perfect Roy, just perfect. Internal should be ok as the 20 needs to rev harder before real boost so shouldn't spike but you can't beat a real waste gate. Say, a 38mm or 44mmm even better. If the 25 are making 260 then the 20 should do it with cams and revs.

I have been around cars all my life from building speedway cars to classic chevs and in recent years, Skylines. If you want to play be prepared to pay. I to have been in your position and after spending a few dollars with solicitors can tell you to just put your car on a flat top and take it to one of our many people here in the forums. When a mechanic has your car and it was fine before you gave it to him you can assume in most cases he has had a good time driving it up the shops to get the lunches. Don't under any circumstances spend money chasing him but never ever go back. Ever. It costs not much more than time for a decent mechanic to build an engine with standard parts. I know the kind of person I am and if I thought my tune or missuse of someones pride and joy was the reason for it breaking I would rebuild it, after hours and better than it was. The reason ? Simple, you will tell everybody what a great bloke I am and my business will double in the following months. Mechanics aren't that smart business wise. It's the latest invention, it's called good will. If I sound a little down on mechanics or tuners believe me, I have a right. Not all are bad mind you so like doctors, when you find a good one, stick to him or her. Oh, and by the way, I don't think the central coast would have many decent tuners as they simply don't tune the amount of cars Sydney tuners do. I will now wait for the flaming to start.

So in your opinion cams are a must for maximum efficientcy. Thats a fantastic difference from 260 to 300. I think with the housing that Robo has and most certainly my .82 there could be big gains in cams of say, 256inlet/260 exhaust due to the freeing up of the exhaust and because the turbo is is now very efficient but the motor less so.

There is always a down side to keeping your car quiet. I have been thinking about making my own exhaust system for some time now. I was a very good welder back a few years ago. I was having a conversation with Matt at Hitman and he guarantees me a 3.5" system, though noisier and drones a bit more will give me a much better result as he assures me that is the problem since he has always gained power and better boost response from a bigger exhaust. First I have to slide a 3.5" pipe over the existing dump mark it, cut and weld as an exhaust is only as big as the smallest part. Then put the dump to cat part of the pipe in a press and squash it a little for better ground clearance then a normal 3.5" for the rest but with an extra long hot dog for droning.

Around 230rwks. Yes, you can go higher but then you have a time bomb. Even at 230 you will need to bump up the fuel pressure a little.

Just do a search. You will see only a couple of people have been hapy with hi-flowed injectors and they got them from the States, I beleve it was from Deutch works or something like that. Do your self a favour and don't do it or you will forever be wandering if they will fail. For $700 just get the Nengun Nismo or Performancewise or Slide injectors. Sard or Nismo doesn't matter but just don't buy hi-flows. From personal experience over two years I could not get a proper tune and was always down on power til I got rid of my hi-flowed injectors then gained 20kws just like that. The difference in driving was much better and a feeling of confidence in the reliability is much better. If you really have to buy them then do a search and you will find them.

Read last line, no difference. I have been thinking for some time the exhaust is restricting it. I know in the States this compressor is good for 400hp but then again over there they get that out of honda V-tecs with cams and reflash. It IS the States, they're just better than us.........right? But I should be able to run it up to 20lbs at least. May try the cam gear first. Start with the smallest and work my way through. Oh, and Ash, I believe your right, the dyno would possibly be a happy dyno but doesn't explain the lack of boost cabability.

Well, that makes me look stupid because I can't get another kw out of mine. 3071 .82 genuine Garrett. 264rwkw. Matt at Hitman says he thinks it is the exhaust as I have a Fujitsubo quiet with the twin 2" pipes inside and only a 3" dump and when you consider the turbines size then add the internal wastegate, well, could be holding things up a bit. Amazing you reached 275kws, not that I disbelieve you, but surely I couldn't be 11kws down could I ? I will definately get that exhaust replaced. Maybe a exhaust cam gear is needed or an exhaust cam. Mine also seems to run out off puff at 6,000rpm. We put the boost up to 19lbs from 18 and made 1kw.

That is not spiking but it is definately a weak actuator. The wastegate is being forced open by what is a lot of boost. What I mean by that is at 14lbs boost is moderate but as with all laws of physics the boost rises 2lbs but the actual pressure through the wastegate is astounding. So, at 18-19lbs the pressure is very high, not dangerous but too much for the actuator to hold. If you already have a 14lb actuator then get a 17 or 18lb one. Your profec will love you for it. But the 14lb actuator will do it as thats what I have and there is no problem. Start from the beginning. Turn off your boost controller. Then go for a full power run in third and see if you get the boost your actuator is designed for. If not then wind some turns into it till it starts to climb over the actuators boost level preset from factory. Wind back half turn. That is all you can do. if you only have the 7lb actuator your stuffed. The profec controls the wastegate but can't do miracles. Get a 14lb actuator. About 50% on boost should give you 18lbs. Set gain should be 3-4lbs below the boost your running, ie: 15lbs or as the profec reads, 150. Make sure you set your warning at 20lbs or the profec will cut the fun for you. Be warned, now that your boost will hold till redline you will make more power so get a tune.

Very normal but if you really want to get it fixed take it to an air/con place to replace the copper gasket if there is one or the o-ring and regas. If you go to a mechanic they won't have the equipment to degas, repair, regas. Some of course have the equipment but to save the mechanic trying to make some money even though he can't regas or degas then auto air/con place is best.

I stand by my comment then, not really a worst case scenario. Quite often there will be oil residue somewhere in the turbo inlet or compressor housing or even the valve cover breather going into the inlet pipe. Not a worry. Black smoke is fuel unburnt, Grey smoke crap in exhaust and blue is rings but needs to be more than you have mentioned. White smoke is usually head gasket. However, if there is bucket loads of white/blue and car sounds like a VW beetle on two cylinders then go to the front of the car, hold your hands under the block and wait for hot oil and engine parts to take your fingers clean off and the oil will infect the wound so badly they will have to take your hands off at the elbow.

Nothing to worry about as it is just unburnt fuel in the exhaust. This just builds up while your cruising around and is a mixture of soot and fuel. Once you boost up a few times it will reduce. I really hope your not thrashing your car with a PFC tuned in Japan, they usually run a lot more timing than we do. Put it on the dyno, I here rebuilds are expensive.

"a little bit when its cold. but as it warms up more gery smoke comes out. and when i give it a Squirt gery/blue smoke" I can't see that there is a serious problem here. You say there is grey/blue smoke. Welcome to turbo territory. Almost every skyline I've seen has grey smoke when floored due to the unburned crap that builds up in the exhaust and then blown out when boosted. The blue smoke could be turbo seals and not a worst case scenario. How much blue smoke is there ?

I'll agree with Dave that the .63 is where it's at for response but only with an external waste gate. A big one. For me though, I used to get so pissed off with being on boost at low revs and the party over at 5,800 or even 6,000rpm. For track work, not only do I have power out of the corners but I don't have to short shift. More importantly though it feels free reving from idle. By that I mean effortless driving at next to no throttle movement. But when I want it it is there with just a few more revs. Been driving to Kellyville from Campbelltown this week and getting 480km to a tank but been playing with the boost controller to so a couple of prods with the pedal as well. If I could make one choice I would buy the 3076 .82 as this is THE perfect combination in internal waste gate turbos. Only because I don't mind the lag. Something about an RB engine that still pulls strong at 7,000rpm, sounds delicious.