skylinecouple

And thats just how easy it is.The only difference is mine has another piece between the front lip and the leading edge of the larger section.This makes it one flat piece right through.I`m telling you, it has transformed the car.

Hey Bass, all paid yesterday.I really can`t wait for the extra 80kws this will give me.Will this allow me to run up to 120lbs boost ?

Replace your steering rack bushes with superpro urethane.Should tighten up the rack without undue road noise.Also upper outer bush with adjustment for negative camber from Noltec.Do these before worrying about springs and shocksand front end will feel much better.

Go for the bellmouth, it will be much more efficient.Leave the seperate waste gate pipes for seperate waste gates.

And i can confirm my new bellmouth is so much better in the top end.I just know when I get it tuned It`ll be at least 10kws up over the old figure.Have to tell you though,mine is custom made by me as I cut up the pipe at the flange and enlarged it to at least a 4" diameter.I cannot see how there could be any resistance to exhaust flow now.

I`m pretty sure Just Jap have what you want but get the metal cat as should be more durable.

Exactly VB.I personally don`t think it is the exhaust.I think boost control.Gain on EBC should be turned up till spiking occurs then turn down a notch.This will allow the EBC to keep the w/gate closed up the top end.Worked for me anyhow.

I have the pinapples in and was more than happy with the result when put between the sbframe and chassis at the front.But I will still use the lock disks to secure the rear bushes but not on the front.Should be interesting.

Just so you know I have no problems with power or holding boost.The only reason I changed the split pipe to bellmouth is as an experiment because I`m a hopeless fiddler.But think about it,when the wastegate opens the only time the gases are not going in the same direction is when the flap STARTS to open.Thats when the gases are going sideways but only till the flap opens further then all gases are going in the same direction.Plus the Fact that the standard or high flow turbo is quite small in the turbine outlet area,putting a restriction in the way via a divider is causing more problems than it solves.Gas wants to expand when it is hot so why would you stop it by keeping it in a 2" pipe? Don`t forget,the wastegate opens after boost has been reached so the turbine will boost faster with less restriction via a bellmouth.Realistically,the turbine dump pipe on a high flow should be a 4" pipe to ,say,the rear side of the cat.Now that would be efficient at 20lbs of boost. I remember a published experiment years ago involving a V8 holden and going from twin pipes to a single.The single gained some 15kws due to all the gases in the same pipe speeding up the gas flow.Just a thought.

Because the flange is thinner the bracket is closer so just put 2-3 thin washers in between the flange and bracket to space it out a bit. Only has to be the difference between the old flange and new,so only a couple of mil.

A long time ago I made a split dump for my R33 and only 3-4mths later everybody was making one.However I regret not making a bellmouth as I truly believe they are better.So yesterday I removed the split and replaced with my own bellmouth.It will go in to the hitman next week for a tune so should be interesting to see the result.If seat of the pants are anything to go by I`m right ,the power is much better up top.Doesn`t seem as crisp down low but remember ,no tune yet.

Hi Chris, The waste gate is fouling on the bracket that holds the turbo heat shield or it is hitting the side of the flange.I had this very same problem but due to work commitments had no time to really look at it for a year.When I did look I found the original dump flange was a lot thicker than the stainless with separate waste gate.So the waste gate arm was hitting the bracket holding the heat shield stopping it from opening more than half way.I could wind the boost up to 14lbs but any more and boost would go crazy fluttering up and down.Bear in mind my turbo was high flowed and would operate better with a bigger exhaust wheel but with a standard turbo and hence smaller turbine wheel you would get the same thing happening at a lower boost setting.You only have to take the cover off and take off the circlip with a fine screw driver then pull the actuator rod to take some pressure off the lever and lift it off.Now that the wastegate arm is free to move it should be able to swing around to face directly over the dump pipe at a right angle to the flange.If not,well,there is your problem.

Maximum anti-traction.I found it easier to control a slide if you have more traction not less.

I used one of those little sand paper attachments with a drill.Looks like a fan sort of thing.Then 1200 wet and dry.Then a good buff and everything will look good.

What about the inside bushes for the traction rods,would that help?I`m on a mission now to get the rear to be at it`s best.I don`t want to get rid of the hicas just yet as it doesn`t really bother me.Driving around today I`m just rapt in the handling.My car has 205,000k`s from when I bought it with the new car smell still there at 22,000k`s.Oh,by the way I have yet to notice the front get light and the rear actually squat.It just puts the power to the ground.

After having my subframe held in place by the whiteline pineapples,I always new they weren`t really doing that much.So,a couple of days ago I decided to take them from the standard position, which is just bolting them on underneath the subframe,to putting the front ones in between the subframe and chassis. Well,blow me !! What a transformation.No movement at all.No body roll.No clunks,squeeks or NVH.The handling is so stable I feel like it is a new car.This is the squat position (that sounds weird) and people say the front end will push too much if powering out of fast corners due to unloading the front end under power,but this is not true.I didn`t notice any squating even when deliberately trying to light the tyres out of corners,only traction and handling that is very,very predictable.The car simply rockets out of corners where as before it would simply light the tyres and go nowhere.Mind you,I can still get it to light up but I can apply alot more power now before it does. Now I also notice my ceramic clutch doesn`t shudder so much nor the rear end feel like it`s rocking back and forward when taking off from a standing start.Also,the car is so much quiter over bumps.Now I`m going to put alloy locking disks in the back of the subframe and see what happens.Will get the traction rods from Just Jap and that should do it. King springs. KYB shocks. Whiteline caster bushes. Whiteline rear camber bushes. Unique Auto sports diff bushes.Coming soon. Whiteline front camber bushes. Coming soon. Whiteline pineapples.

Definitely got to have one.Put me down for black.R33 GTST.

Sorry guys I am such a computer noob.Will try to post up some photos soon.I assure you though that my car is much quieter on the expressway.And the only way the wind noise could be reduced is by less turbulence.I`m currently working on a rear diffuser but to be honest,I think the rear end of the GTST is pretty tidy.I think I`ll concentrate on the area just behind the diff.Maybe a couple of small sheets in front of axle line to help with air going through the rear subframe assembly.Dont worry Bass,everything is very secure,in fact there are quite a few existing holes for small stainless nuts and bolts.

Your wheels are hitting your calipers and you wonder if thats a problem !! Well DER ! yes thats a problem.Take the shit back and get wheels that fit.And you wonder why the RTA demand yearly inspections.

As we are talking about road cars on the track,I`ll be trying to improve my R33 gtst to be as close to a porche or Lambo as possible.I recently made a front piece of sheet alloy in 1.6mm that fits snug inside the front bumper at the bottom and covering the full width and front suspension.I pluggeed up all the gaps between the cooler and flat sheet to force the air through the radiator and nowhere else.I left a gap as the factory would so air can escape from the engine bay.WELL,at 100kph the car is much quieter from the front area.I was quite surprised actually,but very happy with the result.don`t know if it effects down force but I feel if there is less wind noise it has to be working to a degree.

Simple answer.YES.Your human aren`t you ? So you know you will need to see how the new size goes,won`t you? you know you will.More air out means more air in(theoretically). It should be ok as the air flow meter will do it`s job,but what if?

100% brake pads.Bendix ultimates for price or ferodo 2500 for less wear on rotors but a little more expensive.I use bendix but I wash my car every week so no problem with brake dust.

Check your brake pads and see if the shims are all there.Should be 2 little ones on inner and outer with 2 large ones on each pad backing.The clunk you hear could be the pad moving back and forth .

Exactly as I did except I used king standard lows.Very happy with result.Had the bilstiens from whiteline and they were too short so would top out over bumps and too stiff so would rattle the dash over anything bigger than a match stick.Sway bars are much more important matched to as many urethane bushes as possible.Now it steers like a go cart.

Only 20% extra should bring it up to around 950kg clamping load.Sounds ok but 1000 to 1200 might be better.