skylinecouple

I had to buy a new engine a while ago and found a motor with a genuine 32,000km.It looks like a R33 but has the smooth black CAS.This means the CAS drive is also different but thats all.The inlet manifold has the extra barb at the front of it as the R34 does but it also has the metal timing belt cover unlike the plastic one on the R34. It isn`t a Stagea obviously as it didn`t come with 4wd sump.Could it be a laurel or cima? The problem is I`m concerned the cams may be different as I still can`t put more than 15deg. into it at the top end.Have new injectors and GCG turbo and no restrictions anywhere as I custom made the dump pipe so even the waste gate is much bigger than anything you can buy on the shelf. This motor is frustrating the crap out of me.216kws is not good enough.

Just wandering why you didn`t try abrasive porting?

All bosch pumps come with a anti back flow device.If it is second hand then take it to a tuner or supplier to compare it to another.There should be a brass fitting about 1.5cm long at outlet side of pump.

Do your selves a favour and get rid of that 5" drain pipe since they are usually too short anyway.Don`t know why the Jap tail pipes are like this.Too big and too short.Anyway,replace it with a 3.5 or 4" but level with bumper.Haven`t had a problem since.Bumper is always clean.Any exhaust supplier will have some pipe lying around so get 10" of it then use an angle grinder to hack off the old tail pipe at the point where the new 3.5 pipe matches the reducer on the muffler.Do this yourself as it will usually be around $10 for welding.By cutting and trial fitting in your driveway you will do a better job than the muffler shop.Then unbolt the muffler and take it to weld.Oh,and take some rag to soak in water to drape over the muffler while welding so no splatter blobs on shiny muffler.

Just wandering if anybody has pictures or could tell me how neat and symetrical the spray holes are? Having blown money on AVO crap I don`t want to do it again.Are they 4 hole still?

Make sure you cable tie or hose clamp both ends.Do it once,do it right.

Don`t get me started on P-platers.Next time I see a WRX side by side with a Skyline doing 140 on the expressway while everybody else is doing 110 I would love a copper to pull them over,douse their cars in petrol, then give the drivers a match and make them burn their own cars.MAKE NO MISTAKE,these idiots though only a few, will have us all driving electric golf buggies.Broad statement? Open your eyes to the future.Ill never forget my best friend in the 70`s buying a new Ford Bathurst Cobra and proceded to do 140mph, thats miles per hour on the northern rd to Penrith.IDIOT !! As S.K. said,if your young you Will speed. Sorry, I have to go calm down.Now where did I put that T88-34d ?

I want everyone to consider how much work has gone into that car and then tell me honestly if he should be allowed to walk the streets .That is seriously sick in the head.I mean really really sick.

Identical.My wife`s car is exactly the same.

Bolts straight on.

water temp sensor is shot so no signal means always reading cold therefore rich.

Regardless of which one you buy would the flange hole be big enough for a slide stage three high flow.The turbine has been opened up pretty much so just wandering if the flange inner diameter would match it.

Exactly what I did but put a flexable tube from from old cooler hole in guard to underside of snorkel between the curve of the cooler pipe and the air box.To make up for lost intake width.

There is exactly 4cm difference.The 4door is longer in the tail pipe.Everything else is identical.I know because I actually looked forward to cutting off that rediculous 5" exhaust end and welding on a 3.5".Looks so much better,rice sucks.

Thanks Andrew,I have given the GTRS a lot of thought.Aaron,I must say the stage 3 hi-flow with vg30 rear seems the go.Mostly due to ease of fitment.Though I must admit I wander how a normal stage 3 and say 256 poncams would go.Everybody is now telling me cams are the way to go as only an idiot would mess up a cam change and damage anything.With all the people buying your turbos I wish they would report their results in the RB25 section.As a matter of interest is it the compressor on the stage three thats bigger to or just the turbine? Or is the turbine back cut a little?

Manwhore,oil is changed every 3000km.It is a mystery why it has so much slop.If I can locate a vg30 housing I might give GCG another go.Dale,that 56T 2871 could be good as long as I don`t have to find a heap of parts all over Sydney to do it.If I move away from the hitashi core I might as well go to the 30 series though.

Just a guess but sounds like a head gasket.Check your radiator for sludge.

Forgot to mention the timing is limited to 15 deg. at the top end.Tuner can`t put any more into it which leeds me to believe the turbo is way to small and causing a restriction.

I was quite impressed with your result Dale and congratulations.But I really need to go quite a bit bigger to get the 240 I`m looking for.To be honest,I have thought about cams if for nothing else than the angry idle. However,I really would like that bigger number without the cams as I hate opening up a perfectly good engine. By the way,the turbo I have that came with the new engine is in fact a series 11 as the engine was from the very last of the series11.They started using them towards the end of the run with the series11 turbo,DAMN.

Will try to post up dyno sheet but I`m totally useless as I work constantly.Though there was a huge dip at around 5 to 5,500.Just put in biggest metal cat I could find.I have been thinking Paul,that maybe I will do that as I made the dump myself and only used 1" pipe for 10" then blended in to 2" pipe. I think I`ll make another one with 2.5 and 1.5".

Thats the trouble Paul,I know I SHOULD be able to make that power but what if I don`t? The hi-flow I have now only made 220 after I got the injectors and only made 1.5 to 2kws for every pound of boost after 14lbs.I had 18lbs in it to get the 220.That isn`t very efficient.Bear in mind perhaps my hi-flow bing so old may be an early attempt by GCG or they used a RB20 rear housing.

Nic,I think there was one guy making 265 but I really think that would be with cams.What about the 2535 is that direct bolt on? Brett,is that the GTRS your talking about? That is one option I`m really considering but there are so many differing power figures from similar setups from that turbo.

Yes I must admit I don`t know why the shaft would have so much play but I have a standard turbo with 32,000km on it sitting on the bench and there is zero play in any direction.If I pour a little vegie oil in it and spin it,goes on for a few revolutions.Same thing with the old hi-flow and maybe one rev.I`m very worried if I get a slide stage 3 or rebuild the GCG I`ll not come close to 240.Imagine going to all that trouble and you end up back where you started from.

Just leaving for dinner date but will be back in an hour.

Well,after 100,000km my gcg turbo has enough shaft play to warrant replacement.After reading every post totaling 10 casillion I am close to deciding which way to go.The rebuild for the hi-flow is out of the question as it won`t flow enough air without cams as is the slide hi-flow for the same reason.For my R33 GTST with R34 motor I am chasing 240rwkw but at no more than 16lbs of boost.I also want to be able to bolt it on in the garage without having to chase custom parts over a week.I know GCG also do a mounting kit for the GT 30`s ie:3071,3076 but maybe the 2535 or GTRS?The idea is to have 240 or even 250 but not beating the air so badly the intercooler works overtime in three laps of wakefield.And no,my car is not a money pit so $3000 or under please and no cams as previously stated.There are some very clever people here so I hope you can help since my holidays start soon and I need to have it all ready to go by then. I have all the goodies.PFC,injectors full 3" and split dump.Nismo pump.Front mount.