skylinecouple

Driftsquad, Do yourself a favour and buy a genuine Nismo or Tomei pump specific to the car.I recently had the noisy pump and difficult starting problems that the Bosch pumps give you.Since getting the Nismo pump from Nengun for $387.00 delivered I can`t tell you how happy I am.Turn the key and it starts,first time every time.A little noisier than standard but only at idle.You will always have that priming noise by the way.

You people clearly have no taste.The only thing missing is a pro stock bonnet scoop and some front runners.By the way ,where`s the trust and HKS stickers down the side of the door? I hope it has a loud blow off valve and neons,yeah,now were talkin`.

After having injectors hi-flowed by AVO I had my car tuned and have been happy for 2 years now.HOWEVER,I recently did some work to the car and needed to get it retuned so decided to see the Hitman in Penrith.I was amazed when he changed the flow on each injector and I could hear the difference on two of them.They weren`t pulsing correctly.He claims,and I agree that the spray patterns just aren`t right.To be honest,I never felt totally at peace as they were visually different on each hole.Thats four holes per injector by 6 injectors. So now I`m waiting for my Nengun Nizmo injectors to arrive.I have the feeling I`ll be able to add some more timing due to better spray patterns.Fuel consumpsion will be better to.Thats the theory anyway.By the way,did anybody notice the Deuchewerks RB25 370cc injectors and how you can`t mix them with standard 370cc injectors.Does that tell you something? Obviously the spray patterns would be different and therefore if mixed different cylinders would run rich or lean.

What about sticking with my hi-flow and adding a vg30 exhaust housing? Though I must admit the ability of the wastegate to control boost would worry me.Perhaps a slightly bigger ,say 1mm wastegate would help.Enough to flow 240kws at 17lbs.

So would that turbo(gt3071r) be the next step up from the GCG hi-flow? And having bought it, how much extra would it cost to assemble all the parts to bolt it up on the weekend?Surely someone must make a complete package or at least a one stop shop where I could buy everything for a reasonable price.

Some time ago I installed a dump pipe that was made by a friend.All was well til I recently tried cranking up the boost on the dyno and at 17lbs the boost was quite eratic.Dropped it down to 15lbs and back to normal.Turns out the waste gate lever was hitting the bracket that mounts the heat sheild on my GCG hi-flow.Why? Because the flange was half the thickness of the standard dump pipe flange.This moved the heat sheild bracket 4mm closer to the waste gate arm stopping it from opening more than 1/2 way.Used spacers to move the bracket and presto,back to normal.On same boost car now revs cleanly to redline and very noticable power difference.No boost fluctuations on higher boost either.

around $450 from memory but that was two years ago.My unichip was the old version with no ability for boost control.You will need a good fuel pump so if you havn`t got one then contact Paul McGrath, performance-wise, he has Tomei bolt in fuel pumps at reasonable prices.Don`t go for the walbro or even the Bosch pumps as you have to remove the anti flow-back device to fit it.This will make it difficult to start.Make sure you have a fuel regulator as well.

Can`t say I have seen them but they look like a sensible street upgrade.Probably give the same ride as Kings standard lows with slightly upgraded shocks.

Your tyres rub because the wheels have the wrong offset.Roll the guards,narrower tyres or lower the car for negative camber but bad handling.

Do NOT !!! go to C&V for unichip tuning.I speak from experience.Go directly to Croydon.Frankly, if I had any brains I should have stayed with that level of tuning and not gone down the long path of horsepower hunting.My car was so good on fuel and crisp to drive but you know how it goes,"I want more". Had my car booked at C&V at 9.00am,they started working on it at 2.00pm.Twenty minutes to install and 15min of tuning and sends me on my way.Crap,crap,crap.The same car with the speed cut removed. Burn me once and I never return.So booked it with Jim and two and a half hours later I was very happy.215rwkw. All the safety of a standard computer but a tune the factory should have done. I`m currently changing everything again so I havn`t learned anything.PFC is far superior but it took me a while to find a great tuner,not Jim though.Sorry Jim.But if low 200`s are all your after then yes, the unichip is great.

Saw the photo then I...........well................got a little excited. This is so embarrassing. Can I watch it spool? I`ve got money !!

Hey David, Check out Oz Wheels at 100 Dickson rd Leppington.NSW. Call 02 96066468.Did an amazing job on my rims.

Is it a click or a light knocking sound? I had the same thing if it also happens over bumps.It is the metal plate that is in the wheel.It is vulcanized to a backing plate but the rubber gets old and breaks allowing the plate to flop around.I`m sure you could find someone to revulcanize it or maybe even glue it but I wasn`t sure if it had something to do with the air bag so I just bought a new one from just jap.$90:00.

Don`t believe them. They are the same car in most ways,including the shocks.I have King standard low springs and Excel-G KYB shocks and the car handles great yet soaks up the bumps.Just over $700 for the lot from Pep`s in campbelltown.Tried coil overs,rock hard crap.Tried Bilsteins,better but choppy.Great on track though.Don`t let people talk you into a competition setup unless your actually competing.1% of joy won`t make up for 99% of misery every time you hit a pot hole.

Bald tyres will have the same noise.Check them first.Then wheel bearings.

I have EXACTLY the same problem.Though mine has to be primed up to three times.I asked the tuner about it and he confessed he removed the flow back device cause it reduces the bosch 910 HP rating from 350hp to 250hp.Now I have to buy a new pump to get the higher HP rating and still have the anti flow back device. However, you said yours has the valve in it so did you do it yourself or did someone do it for you? If it was someone else then double check.

Does anybody know if the bosch 910 fuel pump has an anti flow back device on it? When I leave my car sitting for 20min or so the fuel runs back into the tank and forces me to prime the pump 2 or 3 times before I can start it.Really is a pain. Bought a valve from motorsport connections so I`ll pull the pump out and check for myself but do others have one fitted to their performance pumps? I can`t see it being a restriction.

Just air.I realize now that the sticky tyres were causing the problem.Being mechanically sympathetic I didn`t want to over rev it so was causing the tyre to bite too much.With the harder launch the extra wheelspin gets me past the point of axle hop.I guess with every new change I have to adjust my driving style.By the way,when someone says adjust your pressures cold,they mean cold.I thought I had put 34lbs in the rears but when I checked in the driveway after a cold night the actual pressure was30lbs. 34lbs now though.Big difference.

Definately for the under 25 bracket.Spend big dollars on carbon bonnet and guards then add 100 kilos of useless crap.If you roll at speed at least one of those things will come adrift and dent your cranium.When I see something like that I really feel embarrassed to own a Skyline.Having said that,do a search for carbon fibre, on these forums.

Cars are just toys.Who cares what toy it is as long as your having fun.But as ferdinand Porche proved, power will not beat light weight.I`ll put my 2.5lt ,big braked,1400kg,lightly tuned skyline up against an over powered barge with sloppy suspension and no brakes any day.Even more so in the rain.I just cannot see why everybody is so in love with drag racing.400 lousy metres proves nothing.Three laps and the barge will literally melt it`s tyres.See if you love it when you hit the wall at high speed.

Setting the shocks harder will limit tramp but will not allow squat to transfer weight of car onto back wheels for better grip.I tried running 34lbs this morning in the rear at 7.00am.( Tyres were very cold).After inflation went for a small drive to warm them up and then launched at 3,500rpm.Still hopped but not as bad.Tried launch at 4,500rpm,just dumped the ceramic clutch and a lot of wheelspin but smooth as silk.Needed to feather throttle but only a little.Did the same again but left it on the limiter and into second found alot more wheelspin.As slow as that sounds it actually felt quicker.I think by keeping my foot into it the boost built much faster.When I get to WSID I`ll try 5,000rpm and see how I go.

I think the whole idea of using the gcg is to be able to take it home and bolt it up, no drilling this or changing that.When I need my car on the road the next day believe me, that means more to me than a hand full of power.Otherwise I would simply take the car off the road for a week and go bigger with custom everything.

Will try running much lower psi on the rear.Maybe 30psi and see what happens.

Without a doubt, Sydney kids group buy.Bilsteins and whiteline springs.Sounds like your springs (if original) have sagged.

Basics first,check plugs,fuel filter,clean afm and could even be injector stuck open.