skylinecouple

I kind of thought along those lines myself.I am very reluctant to put the Bilstiens back in til they are rebuilt with softer valving on the initial movement.Gary, perhaps you could give me an idea what it would cost to rebuild and revalve 4 shocks.Also,I find if I run tyre pressures in the rear at 38lb the centre tread wears out before the side tread.What do people run in the rears for street driving,I always use 35lbs but will try a higher pressure if needed.On the front I use 38lbs and get perfect tyre wear across the tread.

Ok, seems like I will have to put the stock rims on and some really crap rubber then skate around like on ice.I know,I`ll only take off in second and just smoke em up EVERY SINGLE TIME I LAUNCH !!! Sorry,I`m alright now,just having a sarcastic moment.Just a little observation; when somebody mentions TURBO, we get a minimum of 20 answers.Type up injector,exhaust,BOV, or pod filter and we get the same result.We are so focused on power that we forget to work out a way to put it to the ground. Now somebody mention braking, we would be lucky to see three answers.We kid ourselves we have cars faster than a Porche or M3 BMW but having driven both I can`t recall the owners complaining of axle tramp.Having dropped the clutch of a wide body sc carrera many times, na,no tramp.Thankyou to the two people who tried to help but we are obviously the only ones with this problem.

HHmmmmmmm

That is why I put them in,to try and stop it.It feels as though there is no difference one way or the other.I`ve seen hot rods,street machines,skylines and all sorts of cars that don`t do it.WHY MINE !! Now I know I`m not the only one so has anybody done something where the hop just stopped? Super stiff shocks ?, rock hard coils?, slushy suspension?,replace springs with solid steal rods?I don`t care just give me ideas.

Just wandering if anyone has experienced severe axle tramp where it feels like the rear end is going to rip out alltogether.Have harder springs and camber bushes and pineapples but no matter what I do I still have it.It seems to be worse in the rain but I think that would be because the wheels start to spin earlier.I only have two ways to launch, control the revs with my right foot, or smoke the tyres hard enough to keep it smooth.The latter may look impressive but not exactly the quickest way to get going. I have:8" rims with Hankook k104 tyres. Drift R rims(shouldn`t be too heavy). King standard low springs. Whiteline upper camber bushes Excel-g gas twintube shocks. Pineapples in neutral position. The very second I accelerate or drop the clutch it feels like the wheels are only making contact with the road every 100mm.In fact if I find a nice fresh patch of road you can clearly see the rubber only makes contact every 100-150mm.Car has never been in an accident and does not appear to have any worn bushes, just 220rwkw I can`t use to my advantage below 4500rpm.It is at the stage where I am trying to design a traction bar or tramp rod system but no matter which way I look at it the suspension will be limited in it`s movement. Any ideas?

Have a look at Sydney Kids group buy on Whiteline springs and shocks.

The first thing we need to know is what suspension you have.Then we can see if it has in fact drooped.If you have standard springs then it is inevitable.Firm after market springs don`t usually droop.If you read Sydney Kids group buy on bilstien shocks and whiteline springs it will tell you what the original centre cap to wheel arch is.

Hi Busky, Guess it comes down to feel.The springs should not bounce at all after compressing when hitting an undulation in the road.The shocky ideally would be soft enough in it`s resistance to allow the spring to return to it`s original position quickly but not overly soft to allow the car to bounce.I have tried Tein coil overs with 7kg springs front and 5kg springs rear and found them to be so rediculously stiff it made the car leap half a metre across the road through rough fast corners. Then I tried standard springs with Bilstein monotube shocks from whiteline.The springs were hopelessly overpowered by the stiff shocks and could not return to position quick enough so gave almost the same result.Not to mention the resistance over small ruts and potholes was non existant.The smallest ripple would rattle the dash very badly. My current combination is King standard lows and KYB excell-g shocks.VERY impressed.Smooth as silk on average roads and easily controls the springs.The car is so much faster in every road condition.No more understeer in the rain and the wheels stick to the road over the roughest corners.Mind you, I have a few other goodies under the car to but you need a spring and shock combo that works. I guess for me I decided I wanted a fast STREET car not a fast track car.

I must say I would have to agree with S.K.It`s simple really, find a set of springs that are stiff but you are happy with on the road.Then find a shock that can handle the spring rate chosen.Shock absorbers keep the spring under control and I don`t think overly stiff shocks should compensate for poor spring choice.I think S.K. was trying to point out that a good; no,....a really good shock and spring combo will beat an average coilover, adjustable or not.If the chosen springs are a tad soft then an adjustable set of sway bars will perfect the end result.Besides, in most cases, a quality set of springs and shocks are usually cheaper than poor or average coil overs and the money you save can be spent on camber and caster bushes with pinapples.Just my two cents.

Something close to my heart.No point in overtaking if they think your revving hard to do it. I have a Fujitsubo muffler with a large body and 3" inlet and outlet in stainless.Then in front of the diff an oval shaped resonator approx. 10" long.Then a 12" hotdog before a hi-flow cat.Then a split stainless dump pipe from the turbo.I doubt it is much noisier than the standard system and even when I rev it out is still very quiet.Currently pumping out 220rwkw. I think the reason the muffler works so well is because it has two 2" pipes inside it instead of the usual 3" single.Also, there was some droning and at my age I couldn`t tolerate it so then I put the hotdog on and zero droning, and I mean zero. The biggest noise came from the split dump so wrapped it up in thermo tape back to the cat and much better.Yes, I know it will rust it quicker butt I`ll live with it.

Need a bit more info.What changes have been made to suspension.EG: coils,springs bushes. Get it checked for caster bushes and ball joints.I have the same thing and all have been replaced, except ball joint.You have to get your mechanic to look very close when he jacks it up by the chassis so the wheels are off the ground.If you hit the top of the wheel you can actually see the top of the ball joint move a whisker.

I can honestly say that changing the suspension has given me the biggest woody.The ride is firm but soaks up bumps nicely.My corner speed is incredibly faster now than when it had the rock hard suspension.

GCG hi-flow,fm-intercooler,hi-flowed injectors,PFC,k&n panel filter and bosch 910 fuel pump.Oh, and z32afm. All new suspension.

I have GCG hi-flow and running 15.5lb boost and making 225rwkw on pessimistic dyno.I do have trouble getting power to the ground on slower corners.

At the very least you will need a bigger fuel pump and turbo then a unichip.And before I get roasted by the all or nothing brigade you did say "the next step".I sometimes look back on that combination from Croydon Motorsport as my favourite,fantastic fuel consumption and smooth as silk.And yes I am more than happy with the awesome power I have now but With a higher interest in track work I wish I spent the money on huge brakes,light weight wheels,sticky 255mm rear tyres,a front spoiler low enough to take the ears off an ant and a wing big enough to sun bake on.Oh, and those cute fluffy dice that jiggle when you hit bumps.They are so cute! By the way, that combo with what you have as well should easily get 215rwkw.

From what people say here Sydney Kids combo seams to work well on the street.I judge a good combination by how well it can take rough corners and pot holes so I may not be the best person to ask.Just don`t go too low or too hard in the shock as jumping a metre across the road on a rough corner isn`t fun.

Antz, Go to the group buy section to answer all your tchnical questions on the install.

I cut a small hole in the front of the lid where cold air comes in from the bonnet and headlight.Then removed the padding from the lid as well and it made no difference to air filter noise.Honestly, I don`t think, from what we have seen on a few dynos,you would need more than that to support 250rwkw.

Thanks mate.

So Nismoid, Would that be set up of the fuel pump or PFC? I know there is a different pump speed at idle than at higher revs.

If you still have the standard fuel pump ignore me,but if it is a bigger pump it needs to be primed before starting.I have exactly the same problem since putting in a bosch 910 and injectors with PFC.If any body has an answer I`d like to hear it.

Hi SK, I bought these parts 100,oooK`s ago.As I said I am very happy with all except the shocks.I am sure at the time Whiteline may not have perfected the performance over sharp bumps or potholes.I will try another combination soon then if you don`t mind I`ll get you to breathe your magic into the bilsteins.By the way,I don`t want ANTZ to think that SK`s shocks are the same as whitelines although Whiteline would do well to listen to his advice because I`ll never buy another shock absorber off them. Take my advice if you want to but I think the bushes and stablizer bars made the biggest difference.

Felixy, do you have the shocks on the car? ARE they shit?

Hi Antz, Just going through the same process with my 33GTST.Currently have bilsteins with stock springs.Everything else is whiteline.I added each part seperately to judge their value and every part contributed to an improved ride.The car is so precise compared to the wife`s 33.But I would have to tell you the bilsteins were the biggest disappointment.When they were new I sometimes thought the dashboard was going to fall out on my lap.They seem to feel every little bump on the road, and when they are cold are simply unforgiving.

I`m with mad 082.My f/left and r/left are slightly worn and need doing.Saw the tutorial but looks a little dodgey.Still,if Advan can quote $560 for rear then I`ll look at options.