skylinecouple

Thirty years of throwing money down the drain at things that don`t work or make so little difference that it will, and I mean WILL end up on an already crowded shelf in the deep dark corner of your garage.Take my advice only if you want to but please watch what others do and if they have found something that works,copy them.Being the first to do anything is overated.

Had my hi-flow for 2 years at 1 bar with standard air box and k& n panel. Never had any noises after turn off.Oh,......there was that time the engine fell on the ground,but that was more of a clunk than a turbo whine.

Why would you buy a product nobody uses,and for good reason,when you could just turn up the boost? Not to mention setup time getting it to work.Any electronicly dependent product will also drain your battery a lot faster as I believe that is just a hi-speed fan.Don`t waste your money.

Hate to hi-jack your thread guys but I run a GCG hi-flow with all the goodies to get 220rwkw. I have always believed in running full boost at all times and letting my foot control that boost.Not really having problems controlling boost as the profec b spec 2 does a great job but would everyone agree if I am running the turbo at 15.5lbs would at least a 10lb spring be better? Better than the standard spring that is.

I am in the market for shocks for my GTST R33, where did you get them?

Try the frame rails under the floor but put a rag between the rail and stand.This will protect the paint.

Just my own two cents,I really don`t think you had ABS in the first place as it was an option and almost every new owner asked for it or the dealer ordered the car with it as it was like a couple of hundred bucks from the factory so the dealer like australian dealers just assume everybody wants it.In your case the owner ordered the car without,prbably thought he or she could save some bucks.By the way,I believe every car should have them.After thirty years of track and road I know I won`t have time to think about brake control in an emergency.

I to had that cracking sound,and it will get worse over time.Nothing too serious as everything is bolted together and will not come apart.However,the noise is your king pins or ball joints,whatever some people like to call them.They need to be replaced or machined but check them first by jacking the car and hitting the top of the tyre and look for movement in the top of the ball joint.It will only move a little,like 1 thou so pay attention.Hope this helps,if not try caster bushes or steering rack bushes.

PRDTR 33,can you please type using english, I`m starting to feel uneasy abouy owning a skyline.Now where is my baseball cap?.......

If your getting one made for free great, but if your not then why not just get one with 02 hole already there?

I have my profec spec 11 set at : low boost-11lb, 5 gain,5.5lb set gain. : hi boost- 14.5lb, 5gain, 10lb set gain. No spiking and perfect boost control.Tuned by one of the best workshops in sydney but didn`t even come close to getting it right.Couple of hours playing around and hey, perfect.Boost starts at 2,500rpm.GCG hi-flow.

R32 is close in relation to the S13 and R33 is close to GTR.In short, no, won`t fit.

I`m with you Paul, go the gcg hi-flow.

PFC controls timing so I think it is set at least number as a reference point.

I`m running the smaller of the bosch pumps, a 934 or something or other. 14.5lb boost.Stock air box but cold air feed into snorkel and k&n filter panel.Injectors are 20% larger and flowed to within 1% of each other.Only tuned over full power map and couple of light load areas.Fuel consumption is around 400ks per tank even with a couple of squirts.

I have GCG hi-flow,cooler full exhaust,EBC and AVO hi-flowed injectors.Oh, and PFC. 220kw and brilliant torque.Very responsive. Just wish I didn`t put that damn ceramic clutch in.

I know S.K and many others like the Bilsteins but I wander how many of you have found, like me, they feel every little bump or match-stick on the road.Personal experience tells me the build quality is there as I have done 100,000kms and they only just now feel a little more comfortable.BUT, still feel every little road irregularity.Would I buy them again? Probably not. I know it is only the valving controlling initial movement but thats a lot of money for something that isn`t right.I am currently looking at other options. A question for S.K. What would you recommend for a fast road car that would probably only see one track day a year.Standard springs but full whiteline bush kit and adjustable sway-bars.Would KYB AGX be better?

I agree with Godzilla32,Thirty years of motor sport tells me that fouled plugs are mearly unburnt crap on your otherwise perfect plugs.A spark plug is a mechanical device,fouling it will not change it`s basic structure.Clean it, that will work fine unless it has over heated at some stage.

Hey, how yah doin` ? This topic has been covered by a few people here but I have to say not nearly enough.There is no doubt almost everybody has an EBC yet not everybody knows how to set them up. I use the Profec spec 11 but I would suggest any EBC would do the job.The trick is to figure out what your trying to acomplish with it.If you have a small combination like standard set up then you may not need something as complicated as the E-boost. Yes it is true it can calculate boost for each gear but do you have enough power where you have to worry about the power you make in each gear? Most of us would be better off with something a little less complicated and more importantly, cheaper.Which brings me to my point. Tuning it yourself will bring you much more pleasure than taking it to a workshop who may not do as good a job simply because they may not have the time or know the characteristics of your car.Yes it will take time, but; road tuning is the only way to get it right. Perhaps a tutorial might be in order.

Double check the part number on the shock.It doesn`t sound right.Exel-G`s are just a little firmer than stock.If it is the right part then the springs are the problem.Unless one shock is faulty, but you would really feel it if three other shocks work normally.It wouldn`t be the first time a pimply faced sales assistant got it wrong though.

If it was a kit car the suby would easily be better, lighter weight, already front wheel drive.

I don`t understand any of this.If I rev the engine at five thousand rpm wouldn`t that hurt the engine? Maybe if I set up a gravity feed using a bucket while I`m driving so I have some load on the motor.Was the HKS sand silica based? Which side of my mouth do I hang my tongue while driving? So many questions, my head hurts !!

thanks guys. Will get to it straight away.

It seems no one has discussed replacement bushes.I have developed a clunk in my front end when reversing out of the driveway or turning into a corner.This could be the king pin or ball joint, however I was cruising through the Planet soarer forum and seems replacing the rack bushes may well be in order. Now if this is the case,then what would be better,urathane or rubber.After replacing my rear upper arm and front caster bushes with urathane I didn`t notice any difference in noise or vibration.Would the steering rack be any different?The rack is after all very close to the steering wheel and a guy in Planet Soarer said his steering was was much better after pulling out his urathane bushes and putting in brand new rubber ones. Having sorted that out, where would I be able to get them in sydney (cambelltown).How much? HELP !

Could also be telling you AFM is out of range, ie: too much air is flowing through the meter.How much power you making?