skylinecouple

exactly Paul, I agree. If the factory can build fast cars that run cleanly then so can we. Bit of time and patience, thats all.

Still, curiosity might get the better of me,I may still try the nizmo injectors just to see if any difference.By the way, just did full tank and got 400km driving mostly around town.Cold start is great and it now has a clean rear bumper.

Take my word for it, the 225`s will be ok but feels kinda mushy on quick direction changes or mid speed corners with undulations will allow it to sort of float on the rim.Almost like the car has week suspension bushes but it isn`t.Get the 205 tyres but the money you save off the larger 225`s can be spent on much stickier ones.

You will be a little dissapointed with that turbo bazr33, I know, I`ve been there.Read a couple of posts up on hi-flowed injectors and it may give you some idea where your headed.I did try the cheap hi-flow turbo and didn`t like it.To slow.Not painful but got a gcg hi-flow and it was much better.I would certainly spend the money and go ball bearing.Anyhow, if you get the z32 afm and some injectors try 14LB boost and you will be happy, very happy. :wavey:

Well,got it back from tuner (unique auto sport).The difference is unbelievable.Ben did a great job.I must say it is very crisp and I know already that when I stop enjoying the new power it will return much better fuel economy.The thing is, how come the previous tuner made 230rwkw and Uniques dyno only made 217rwkw yet it is a much more powerful car.And I mean MUCH more powerful.There is no slowing down of the power.It keeps making more til redline. Could there be that much difference between two dynos? By the way Fastrotor I actually agree with you on the atomisation but in this case I think AVO have done a great job.Oh, and it starts with no hesitation at all,thats the one thing that was really getting to me.I can`t say every body would be happy with hi-flows and I must admit I had thought I had waisted my money but now $450 beats $12-1400 or even $700 from greenline or nengun.I also heard injection perfection have cheap hiflowed injectors at $350on e-bay.

Grab the profec manual and double check the setup.Two things previously mentioned was checking hoses and waist gate,I`d go with those first.If a work shop installed the ebc then double check for sure.After twenty five years playing with cars I Know if you look at something long enough you`ll work it out.

Thanks guys,I hope your right.Be prepared on tuesday and I`ll fill in details of set up.So easy to get distracted from the goal of getting the most result from the least combination.Most workshops now seem to be overly concerned with known setups rather than getting down to some fine tuning of an existing setup.In other words getting to know the PFC intimately.

When are all the normal people of the world going to stop bending over and taking it up the rear.Deal with it quickly and hard.Become the hunter.Follow the fox to it`s lair and burn it and it`s cubs in the cave it lives in.

Was originally tuned by Croydon so don`t know what setup.Will be going to Unique Auto Sports monday and will find out current setup, then see new setup from Ben at Unique.Lots of soot and unburnt fuel over back of car.Never starts first time.

OK,heres something a little different.I have standard injectors that have been hi-flowed 20%.This should be 444cc.The rest of the setup is GCG hi-flow turbo,Justjap cooler,split dump,3" system,modded airbox,pfc,very low k R34 Gtt motor with all sensors changed to work in R33GTST. The car is going in for final tune as it feels doughy between 2 and 3,000rpm.Oh,forgot to mention it has Profec B spec 11. Now,guys,only the people who have really had some experience with these modified injectors,personally, or worked on a car using them. Currently making 230rwkw.Are they a waist of time? I have heard so many bad reports yet just as many good ones.They certainly seem to have solved my fuel shortage problems.Though I wonder about spray patterns but AVO swear they are no different.Any comments?

Got 230rwkw.Good tyres suspension and driving will usually be the limiting factor.400rwkw in the wrong hands will definately be the limit.200rwkw with a highly skilled driver would do more.Some track days and quality tyres and brake pads and 250rwkw should be just about perfect.

Definately mechanical.See if it does the same in reverse,may be a 2-way.

I believe the cannister absorbes fuel vapour from the petrol tank then allowing it to be drawn into the engine under accelleration.Should these hoses remain unblocked I would assume you have effectively introduced an air leak.At best,extra fuel vapour pressure when you open your tank.At worst,uneven idle and another way of letting dirt into the system.

Hi Mark, I was just wandering if u still have z32 afm for sale?

Hi Rob,million to one chance I know but do u still have z32 afm. Gary.

OK, plug to.

Count me in.My meter is maxed out at 230rwkw`s.One question though, does Advan supply a plug that just plugs in? I think it was around $50.

I know it has probably been said before but the plug will have to be rewired, is that right? And if the mesh is in both ends do we pull the turbo end out?

Amaru, Please change your timing belt.NOW !!!

we could barely make out mitsubishi stamp.The rubber had completely fallen apart.

I think the valves had actually bent when trying to start it after dyno.

Forgot to mention bent valves and possible piston damage.Who cares, new R34 engine in and 230kwrw.Will rebuild old engine for spare.

Another one to add to the pile. R33 GTST 95 mod. Unichip Intercooler GCG hi-flow Finer filter panel Full exhaust & split dump Bosch pump & sard regulator 215rwkw very happy ! Unfortunately this is where it all goes wrong.Developed a small hiccup at 2,000rpm then 2,500 and took it to biggest most expensive u-beaut tuner in sydney.On the dyno and he says crank angle sensor gone.Removes unichip and cas is fine.So must be unichip. Couple of days later same hiccup.Then it is fine.Then really bad.Back to dyno.He says must be cas.So I had one ready and away we go.Car drives great.Couple of days and no power below boost but goes good on boost.At this time I decide to install pfc and hi-flo injectors.Hope pfc will fix problem.225rwkw and running great.Before I get home notice lack of power below boost and slight hiccup.Take it to Advan who kindly run it up on the dyno then street test and we confirm timingis rooted.Back to original tuner and dynoed.Tickles pfc and says it`s fine.Go to start it and won`t start. Timing belt has let go when I turned it over to get off the dyno.All the trouble I had been having was in fact the belt which had lost 30% of it`s teeth.Belt had done 30,000km`s but looked like 200,000.Cheap belt from f#@%$wits are us.Cheap-skate so called engineer who`s favourite colour is green possibly damaged it when installing.

you guys are always mucking around.This is serious.It`s the ejector button for the passenger seat.But it only works with your tongue hanging to the left side of your mouth.

ok, have tried rox207 and as promised I have now tried the ngk oza295-e2 from auto one.This sensor has less perforations and half the size holes.Would seem NGK also believe turbo cars need less exhaust gas hitting the sensor.Also, the wires are two white and one black as original,(95 model.) Power is up again over the rox-207 and seems crisper.Most importantly; even better fuel consumption.I know I`ll get 500km`s to a tank.I really don`t need confirmation that the oxy sensor plays a big part in ALL levels of tuning, but I have confirmed this with an electronics engineer involved in automotive softwear.NGK oza395-E2 is the one to get and it comes with the right plug. On a side note I will be at Croydon Motorsport Developement on tuesday to have Apexi tuned and EBC put in with injectors.Allready have other good bits on car,should prove interesting.